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CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


Cheating  the  Junk-Pile    \M/^ 


THE  PURCHASE  AND  MAINTENANCE 
OF  HOUSEHOLD  EQUIPMENTS 


BY 

ETHEL  R.  PEYSER 


WITH  A»  INTRODUCTION  BT 

RICHARDSON  WRIGHT 
Editor  of  "House  and  Garden  Magazine" 

Illustrated  by  drawings  by 

HARRY  RICHARDSON 

and  by  photographs 


NEW  YORK 
E.  P.  DUTTON  &  COMPANY 

68i  Fifth  Avenub 


Copyright,  1922, 
BY  E.  P.  DUTTON  AND  COMPANY 


AH  Bights  Reserved 

/8  595 


PKIKTED   IN    THI    UNITED    STATES   OF   AMERICA 


Courtesy  of  Central  OU  and  Gas  Stove  Company 


BUNGALOW     AND     PALACE     CAN     BE     FED     WITH    THE     NEWER 
OIL    RANGES    WITH    PLENTY    OF    SPACE    AND    OVENS 


To 

"HOME  AND  MOTHER" 

The  Experience  of  Both  haa 

Made  this  Collection  Possible 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

This  book  cannot  go  on  its  way  without  acknowledg- 
ing Richardson  Wright,  Editor  of  House  and  Garden 
Magazine,  at  whose  request  the  chapters  were  written, 
as  the  source  of  it  and  as  the  stimulus  to  the  gathering 
of  the  material.  I  also  want  to  acknowledge  the  un- 
flagging services  of  Celia  Arbeit,  his  secretary,  who  at 
every  point  helped  in  collating  the  straying  text  and 
furtive  photographs. 

I  must  not  forget  the  manufacturers,  who  have  sup- 
plied me  with  information,  illustration,  and  enthusiasm, 
and  also  the  several  experts  who  were  philanthropic 
enough  to  read  every  chapter  (before  they  came  out  in 
House  and  Garden)  to  eradicate  any  technical  or  sci- 
entific anachronism  that  might  have  lurked  therein. 
To  all  these  and  others  who  have  helped  I  am  very 
grateful. 

E.  R.  P. 
New  York  City 
August  1922 


Til 


AUTHOR'S  FOREWORD 

Ignorant  buying  is  the  junk-pile's  subsistence. 

This  book  is  in  no  way  intended  to  be  a  book  on 
household  efficiency,  in  the  usual  sense  of  the  word — ^it 
is  no  religio-culinaris,  no  domestic  Baedecker  or  home 
Taylor.  It  is  merely  meant  to  be  a  means  to  the  pur- 
chase and  care  of  the  best  household  equipments  and  to 
be  an  instruction  before  not  after  the  purchase  is  made. 
Further,  it  is  meant  to  cheat  the  junk-pile,  by  inspiring 
the  buyer  to  get  the  maximum  advantage  out  of  every 
purchase  of  the  thing  he  buys  and  by  the  proper  care 
of  it  after  he  gets  it.  It  is  a  book  which  conspires 
against  the  aspiring  junk  heap  in  the  yard  or  in  the 
store-room!. 

There  is  so  much  in  the  market  to-day  in  the  way  of 
household  equipments  and  devices,  that  a  book  like  this 
is  necessary  to  give  the  home-keeper  as  much  of  an  idea 
as  to  what  to  eliminate  as  to  what  to  choose.  It  is  neces- 
sary, too,  to  give  the  home-keeper  an  idea  of  the  main- 
tenance of  what  she  has  elected  to  buy,  as  the  proper 
care  of  possessions  adds  100%  to  their  longevity. 

In  every  case  in  this  book  the  very  best  devices  are 
discussed.  If  the  reader  feels  that  in  any  case  a  too 
expensive  article  has  been  delineated  at  least  he  (or  she) 
will  get  from  the  discussion  of  the  thing,  an  idea  and 
ideal  of  what  is  to  be  demanded  of  this  sort  of  device 
.  .  .  and  if  she  (or  he)  be  improvident,  will  immediately 
buy  a  cheap  thing  instead  of  waiting  until  he  (or  she) 
can  afford  a  better  article  if  not  the  best.    In  short,  the 

ix 


X  AUTHOR'S  FOREWORD 

purchaser  should  demand  in  every  purchase  the  largest 
collection  of  "best  traits." 

So  this  book,  then,  aims  to  give  the  purchaser  an 
idea  of  what  things  or  qualities  to  buy ;  to  stimulate  the 
manufacturer  who  is  ready  to  furnish  them  when  given 
a  reason  for  doing  so ;  to  make  of  every  purchase  a  pay- 
ing investment,  not  a  mere  expenditure;  and  to  cheat 
the  Croesus-like  junk-man  out  of  his  expected  heritage. 

Due  to  the  time  it  takes  to  print  and  publish  a  book 
the  reader  will  realize  that  there  may  be  new  things 
created  which  could  not  be  included  herein. 

E.  R.  P. 


INTRODUCTION 

THE  HOUSEWIFE  AS  MANAGER  AND  PURCHASING  AGENT 

Several  years  ago  we  heard  a  great  deal  of  talk  about 
women's  place  being  in  the  home.  The  slogan  was 
used  as  a  campaign  challenge  and  as  a  sneer.  It  was 
bandied  up  and  down  the  country-side  until  we  got 
pretty  tired  of  hearing  it.  Since  the  privilege  of  vot- 
ing has  been  given  women  and  since  their  weight  is 
being  felt  in  elections,  the  cry  has  died  down.  The 
simple  reason  is  that  neither  the  employment  of 
women  in  war-work  nor  the  radical  challenges  of  the 
ultra-feminist  has  altered  the  fundamental  fact  that  the 
home  is  a  woman's  realm.  Now  you  can  banish  her  to 
the  home  and  make  it  such  a  place  of  drudgery  that 
she  loathes  it;  or  she  can  abide  there  as  a  queenly  fig- 
ure, director  of  its  work. 

Thanks  to  the  inventive  genius  of  our  manufacturers, 
the  home  has  ceased  to  be  a  place  of  exile  for  a 
woman.  The  long  hours  that  used  to  obtain  in  house- 
work, the  wear  and  tear  on  nerves  and  muscles,  are 
being  cut  down  by  labor-saving  equipment.  The  short- 
age of  servants  is  being  met  with  the  same  devices. 

It  can  never  be  expected  that  a  big  house  will  be 
totally  servantless.  Utopia  is  still  far  away.  But  it 
can  be  reasonably  expected  that  every  house  will  get 
along  with  fewer  servants.  The  hope  of  this  expecta- 
tion lies  in  two  salient  features  of  these  times:  (1) 
the  simplifying  of  our  home  life;  (2)  the  position  of 
the  housewife  as  a  manager. 


xii  INTRODUCTION 

One  of  the  reasons  for  the  high  cost  of  living  has 
been  the  complication  of  our  living.  The  past  genera- 
tion has  been  brought  up  to  feel  that  so  many  more 
things  are  necessary  to  comfort  than  was  the  previous 
generation.  Short  cuts  to  comfort  cost  money.  The 
grocery  order  sent  over  the  telephone  saves  steps  but 
adds  to  the  bill.  The  dress  bought  ready-made  is  a 
convenience — and  an  extra  expense.  The  food  and 
drink  picked  up  at  shops  have  added  to  the  cost  of  liv- 
ing— especially  the  drink.  Nowadays  Congress  is  en- 
couraging the  making  of  drinks  at  home,  sensible 
women  will  take  a  basket  on  arm  and  supervise  their 
own  buying  at  grocery  stores,  and  we  are  forgetting  the 
silly  twaddle  about  clothes  not  looking  tailor-made. 
The  way  to  meet  the  high  cost  of  living  is  to  simplify 
the  manner  of  living.  And  the  way  to  simplify  the 
manner  of  living  is  to  live  more  at  home  and  do  more 
at  home. 

WeVe  reached  the  ebb-tide.  The  flood  is  leaving  the 
restaurant  and  the  cabaret  and  turning  toward  home. 
Make  no  mistake  about  that.  We  are  being  cleansed 
with  the  fire  that  we  ourselves  kindled.  The  home  is 
coming  into  its  own,  and  with  it,  the  woman  in  the 
home. 

Taking  them  by  and  large,  our  grandmothers  were 
pretty  good  managers.  They  didn't  have  vacuum 
cleaners  or  electric  toasters  or  telephones  or  a  lot  of 
other  equipment  that  has  cut  down  housework  today, 
but,  if  you  will  remember,  they  did  have  a  very  de- 
cided system  in  running  and  managing  their  households. 

Our  mother's  day  saw  the  introduction  of  labor-sav- 
ing devices.  The  household  work  then  stood  on  the 
threshold  of  a  new  era,  but  it  didn't  have  the  courage 
to  put  a  foot  across.  Moreover,  the  equipment  had  not 
reached  the  degree  of  proficiency  where  it  could  be  con- 


INTRODUCTION  xiii 

sidered  practical.  The  machinery  of  household  equip- 
ment complicated  living. 

This  present  generation  has  the  perfected  machinery 
and  much  more  to  come,  but  it  lacks  what  our  grand- 
mothers had — a  system.  We  are  dealing  with  old  prob- 
lems with  new  equipment.  It  is  a  case  of  old  wine  in 
new  bottles,  and  we  have  to  find  a  way  of  handling  it. 
The  secret,  of  course,  is  a  system,  a  policy. 

The  housewife  of  today  is  to  her  home  what  a  man 
is  to  his  office.  She  is  a  house  manager,  a  Domdologist, 
as  the  author  of  this  book  suitably  coined.  To  be  suc- 
cessful in  that  sphere  she  must  apply  the  same  prin- 
ciples of  management  to  her  work  that  her  husband 
does  to  his.  She  must  consider  three  things:  (1) 
household  policy;  (2)  household  equipment;  (3)  em- 
ployed personnel. 

The  employed  personnel  not  only  includes  the  cook 
and  the  other  servants  of  the  house,  but  also  the  grocer 
from  whom  the  vegetables  are  bought,  the  butcher,  the 
dealer  in  housewares.  There  is  just  as  much  reason  for 
looking  into  the  character  of  her  butcher  before  she 
buys  from  him  as  for  looking  into  her  cook's  reputation 
before  she  hires  her.  In  this  respect  the  housewife  is 
a  purchasing  agent  and  she  should  apply  the  same 
exacting  principles  that  a  purchasing  agent  of  a  fac- 
tory does. 

The  household  equipment  can  generally  be  divided 
into  departments,  just  as  office  work  is  divided  into  de- 
partments. There  is  the  cooking  department,  the  laun- 
dry department  and  the  cleaning  department.  These 
will  be  large  and  small  according  to  the  size  of  the 
family  and  the  house.  Each  requires  its  own  equip- 
ment and  each  should  be  kept  separate — the  cleaning  in- 
struments such  as  brushes,  brooms,  vacuum  cleaner,  dust 
cloths,   etc.,   in   their   own  department  or   closet;   the 


xiv  INTRODUCTION 

things  appertaining  to  the  kitchen  in  the  kitchen;  the 
laundry  equipment,  soap,  clothes-lines  etc.  in  the  laun- 
dry. Some  household  managers  may  say  that  this  is 
an  old  story.  Yes,  to  them.  But  hundreds  of  women 
complicate  the  household  work  by  not  using  this  de- 
partmental idea.  So  soon  as  they  do,  household  work 
begins  to  straighten  out. 

A  household  policy  is  less  easy  to  define.  In  an  of- 
fice a  policy  is  the  way  of  conducting  business — ^both 
the  way  and  the  purpose.  In  a  house  it  should  be  the 
same. 

It  is  this  that  the  author  of  this  book  reiterates  over 
and  over  again,  a  policy  and  system  in  the  department 
of  the  installing  of  labor-saving  and  work-doing  ma- 
chinery and  devices  and  operations  to  reduce  the  irk- 
someness  of  household  management.  It  is  this  that  the 
readers  of  House  and  Garden  Magazine,  wherein  this 
book  appeared  serially,  have  enjoyed.  Men  and  women 
have  profited  by  its  accurate  technical  discussion  and  by 
the  delightful  presentation  with  its  occasional  bits  of 
humor.  For  these  reasons  I  gladly  recommend  it  to  its 
future  public  which  I  feel  sure  has  need  of  it,  con- 
sciously or  unconsciously. 

RiCHAKDSON  Weight 


CONTENTS 

PAOH 

Introduction.  The  Housekeeper  as  Manager. 
By  Richardson  Wright,  Editor  of 
House  and  Garden  Magazine   .      .      xi 

OHAFTBK 

I.    Introducing  You  to  Electricity  .     .       1 

Electricity   simplified   for   your   many  uses. 

II.    Keeping  Out  of  Hot  Water  ,.     .     .     13 

Making  dishwashing  a  pleasant  game.  How 
the  drudgery  of  dishwashing  is  banished  by 
electricity. 

III.  Electrocuting  the  Wash     ...     22 

No  more  wasting  the  laundress.  Electric 
laundries  make  washing,  drying  and  ironing 
swifter  and  cleaner. 

IV.  The  Portable  Vacuum  Cleaner      .     45 

Makes  a  clean  sweep  if  you  buy  the  right 
kind. 

V.    A  Pipe  Dream 54 

The  stationary  vacuum  plant  in  your  cellar 
is  piped  for  convenience,  like  water  to  your 
chambers. 

VI,    Cooking  by  Electric  Current   .      .     62 

Not  a  currant  jam,  but  a  release  of  time 
and  a  gain  in  cleanliness  and  comfort. 

VII.    Taking    Guesswork    Out    of    Gas 

Cookery 75 

Done  by  the  new  devices  for  timing  and 
temperatures  and  the  new  surfaces  for  cook- 
ing. 

XV 


XVI 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTEB 

VIII. 


IX. 


X. 


XI. 


XII. 


XIII. 


XVII. 
XVIII. 


The  Oil  Range 86 

These  daj^s  can  never  say  "Call  me  oily, 
mother  dear,"  as  the  new  ranges  are  odorless, 
swift  and  clean  cookers. 


Cooking  by  Absent  Treatment  . 

The     method    of    the    new    fireless    electric 
cookers. 


96 


Questions  From  the  League  of  Ra- 
tions       100 

Well  met  by  the  new  kitchenette  equipments. 

Keeping  It  Cool 106 

The  refrigerator  is  good  only  if  you  buy  the 
best  types.  The  points  are  here  for  your 
digestion. 

The  Passing  of  the  Ice  Man     .     .  113 

The  irrevocable  tragedy  with  the  advent  of 
the   ice-making   refrigerators. 

A  Burning  Question 119 

The  incinerator.  The  right  kind  of  incin- 
eration is  the  only  way  to  answer  the  ques- 
tion. 

XIV.    Air  and  its  Entrance  and  Exit  .     .  126 

Depend  on  many  things  detailed  in  this  chap- 
ter. 

XV.    The  Plumbing  in  Your  Kjtchen   .  136 

A  "piping"  chapter  in  reference  to  sinks  of 
all  kinds,  refrigerator  connection,  etc. 


XVI,    Knife-Life  in  the  Kitchen 


150 


Speak,s   for  their    habits,   habitat,   uses,   and 
abilities. 

The  Ancient  Wood  Implements  .     .  163 

Their  place  in  your  modern  economy. 

Glass  Ware 170 

Some  transparent  but  overlooked  facts. 


CONTENTS 


xvii 


CHAPTEB  \  PAQB 

XIX.    The  Bride's  Kitchen 175 

With  its  accessories  is  the  same  as  any  first 
equipment  for  any  kitchen  (utensils,  func- 
tion, etc.) . 

XX.     Canning  and  Preserving  ....  187 

With  many  new  angles. 

XXI.    Casseroles  or  the  Revolution  Cul- 
inary      197 

An  exciting  title  for  a  casserole  discussion. 

XXII.    Furnishing  Your  Kitchen    .      .     .  202 

The  best,  according  to  your  purse,  is  sug- 
gested here.     Tables  much  discussed. 

XXIII.    Kitchen  Cosmetics 211 

How  to  "make-up"  the  kitchen  with  paint 
and  varnish. 


XXIV.    The  Great  American  Dish 


220 


Ice  cream  is  made  possible  by  proper  im- 
plements. 

XXV.    The  Kitchen  Rotary  Club  .     .     .229 

Tells  of  the  new  and  old  buffers  and  mixers 
for  culinary  amalgamations,  etc.,  and  how 
to  "beat  it"  modernly. 

XXVI.    Flaws  or  Floors  in  Your  Kitchen  .  236 

Gives  advice  as  to  choice  and  treatment  of 
floorings. 

XXVII.    Federalizing  Your  Kitchen  .     .     .  244 

Having  kitchen  cabinets  built  the  right  way, 
so  that  from  them  kitchen  processes  can 
comfortably  be  directed. 

XXVIII.    When  the  Pot  Hangs  High  .      .     .250 

A  plea  for  the  convenient  arrangement  of 
everyday  kitchen  utensils.  Hooks  versus 
closets,  and  daylight  versus  dark. 

XXIX.    Brushing  up  on  Brushes  ....  255 


xviii  CONTENTS 

CHAPTEB  PAGE 

Their  manufacture,  functions,  treatment, 
and  adaptability  to  different  things. 

XXX.    The  Quiet  House 264 

How  by  insulations,  and  various  other  de- 
vices, quiet  may  be  had  in  any  home. 

XXXI.     Ostracizing  the  Fly 269 

By  screens  (and  cleanliness).  Here  cleanli- 
ness is  taken  for  granted  and  screens  are 
discussed — not  movie  but  movable  screens. 

XXXII.    Polishing  the  Water  Supply   .     .  282 

Another  way  of  saying,  "Here  are  ways  to 
filter  water  properly." 

XXXIII.  Outstripping  the   Gale    ....  292 

By  weather  stripping.  A  discussion  of 
weather  strips  to  save  time,  money  and 
health. 

XXXIV.  Beauty  and  the  Bath     .      .      .     .302 
Ketails  the  new  bathroom  fixings  which  make 
them  less  like  a  hospital  in  appearance. 

XXXV.     The  Winter  op  Your  Content  .     .  313 

Can  be  had  only  by  heating  plants  properly 
bought  and  kept. 

XXXVI.    Outlets  Save  Your  Income  .     .      .328 

In   lighting  the   house. 
XXXVII.     Tin  Ware,  Rubber  and  Paper      .      .  337 

Mere  articles  of  use  and  comfort. 

XXXVIII.     Come  Out  of  the  Parlor  .      .      .      .343 
And  see  what  lovely  gifts  you  can  give  from 
the  realm  of  the  kitchen. 

XXXIX.    Latest  Inventions 348 

At  least  as  late  as  the  printing  of  a  new 
book  permitted. 


XL.    Measure  for  Meiasure 


354 


CONTENTS  xis 

PTKB  PAGB 

A  warning  in  terms  of  weights  and  measures 
for  kitchen   economy. 

XLI.    Taking  the  Kitchen  Along  .      .     .  366 

When  motoring  or  picnicking  what  to  carry. 

XLII.    The  Fire  Hazard 370 

Ways  to  decrease  the  danger  of  fire. 

XLIII.    Taking    Care    op    the    Household 

Equipment 390 

The  only  way  to  cheat  the  junk -pile  after 
buying  the  best  devices. 

XLIV.    A  Few  Suggestive  Books       .     .     .  400 

In  which  you  may  read  further  about  things 
we  could  not  touch  upon  in  this  short  collec- 
tion. 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Bungalow  and  palace  can  be  fed  with  the  newer  oil 

ranges  with  plenty  of  space  and  ovens  Frontispiece 

I'AGE 

A  way  to  keep  out  of  "hot  water" — The  portable 

dishwasher 15 

The  dishwasher  which  is  a  table  when  not  washing  .     19 

"Wet  days  can  be  dry  days  no  matter  what  the  law 

may  be  with  the  indoor  dryer 33 

Looking  for  the  dust  which  was  sucked  down  from 

above  stairs! 55 

Electric  range 63 

TO    FACE    PAGE 

Hood  and  stove  heated  by  gas  and  wood  ....     75 

The  smooth  top  38"  gas  range  takes  the  stoop  out  of 
stoopid   cookery 77 

Taking  the  guess  work  out  of  oven  temperatures  by 
the  use  of  an  automatic  heat  regulator  ...     81 

TO    FACE    PAGE 

A  corner  in  Walter  Russell's  kitchenette     .      .      .   100 

TO    FACE    PAGE 

When  there  is  a  cellar  used  for  the  laundry,  the  ice- 
maker  coils  can  be  set  down  there  with  ease  and 
simplicity 106 

Nor  cold  nor  heat  can  get  beyond  these  fortifications  109 

She  is  cool  even  in  summer  with  moving  air  .      .      .  129 

Devices  designed  by  the  author  for  keeping  cutlery 

in  cutting  form 158 

xxi 


xxii  ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Another  device  designed  by  the  author  for  keeping 

cutlery  in  cutting  form 160 

TO    FACE    PAGB 

Showing  the  meat-chopping  table,  range     .      .      .  202 

FAQE 

A  member  of  the  kitchen  rotary  club  at  work  on 

cake-mixing 231 

TO    FACE    PAGE 

An  ideal  kitchen  with  linotile  floor,  built-in  steel 
kitchen  cabinet  units  and  cook's  table,  with  pot 
hanger  comfort 236 

TO    FACE    PAGE 

A  steel  unit  kitchen  cabinet  flanked  by  broom  and 

duster  closets 244 

PAOB 

The  screen  which  rolls  up  is  a  comfort  as  well  as  a 

safe  and  sure  insect  ostracizer 275 

Double  hung  or  ordinary  sliding  window  treatment 
with  weatherstrips  obviates  draughts,  dust  and 
noise — saves  coal ! 295 

A  method  of  heating  water  by  means  of  a  faucet 

attachment 325 

Detach  plug  from  iron  as  well  as  from  socket  if  you 

want  your  home  intact 382 

She  has  prepared  the  way  for  a  nice  little  fire  .     .  383 


CHEATING  THE  JUNK  PILE 


Cheating  The  Junk- Pile 

CHAPTER    I 

INTRODUCING   YOU   TO   ELECTRICITY 

WHAT'S  a  watt?  This  is  not  a  comic  opera  re- 
frain, but  a  question  asked  so  many  times  that  it 
is  typical  of  the  lack  of  knowledge  people  have  to-day  of 
the  force  which  they  are  using  constantly  in  their  own 
homes  and  others. 

We  have  lived  to  see  women  go  to  automobile  schools 
and  learn  the  working  of  the  car  which  is  theirs  to  drive. 
But  as  yet  there  seems  to  be  no  course  even  in  the 
domestic  science  school  which  gives  the  household  en- 
gineer an  inkling  of  what  is  to  be  her  mechanical  field 
in  the  realm  of  electricity  or  ordinary  mechanical  con- 
struction.   "We  hope  this  will  come. 

For  have  you  ever  stopped  to  think  that  the  house- 
keeper to-day  presides  over  an  extensive  electric  instal- 
lation ?  Even  if  she  has  but  a  telephone  and  an  electric 
bell  in  the  house,  there  is  much  that  happens  that  ought 
to  be  familiar  to  her. 

But  people  to-day  have  much  more  than  these  few 
things ;  they  have  at  least  three  or  four  of  the  following : 
ironing  machine,  washing  machine,  vacuum  cleaner, 
telephone,  warming  pad,  electric  lights,  toaster,  electric 
piano,  sewing  machine,  curling  ii'on^  electric  range, 
electric  iron,  etc.,  yet  the  underlying  principles  and 
vocabulary  are  still  as  Sanskrit  to  the  majority  of  users. 

This  article  is  but  to  make  simple  and  comfortable 

1 


2  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

electric  terminologies  and  we  will  use  this  for  an  excuse 
to  get  at  a  few  electrical  misusages.  It  is  to  make 
electricity  familiar  rather  than  a  stranger  to  the  user. 
Nobody  knows  what  electricity  is,  so  fortunately,  we 
don't  have  to  stop  and  define  it.  All  that  we  know  is 
that  it  acts  in  certain  definite  ways. 

We  get  electricity  from  the  battery  and  from  the  gen- 
erator (dynamo).  The  battery  consists  of  celled  con- 
tainers which  come  under  the  heads  of  dry  and  wet 
batteries  in  so  far  as  they  contain  liquid  or  solid 
(wet)  ingredients,  through  which  the  electricity  is  gen- 
erated and  passed  out  by  means  of  wires.  In  short 
the  battery  produces  electricity  by  means  of  chemicals. 
The  primary  battery  produces  electricity  and  the  stor- 
age battery  stores  it  in  the  form  of  chemical  energy. 
It  is  useless  for  purveying  very  much  electrical  power 
as  there  never  can  be  enough  pressure  (voltage)  to  send 
along  the  electricity  to  do  big  jobs,  unless  hundreds  of 
cells  connected  in  a  certain  way  were  used,  which  would 
be  a  foolish  waste  of  material  and  time,  etc. 

In  order  to  obviate  such  manufacturing  the  generator 
or  dynamo  is  used  and  electricity  is  made  in  this  way 
by  induction.  In  other  words,  we  make  it  by  letting  a 
coil  of  wire  (or  several  coils)  be  revolved  by  steam  or 
water  power  (usually)  as  it  cuts  through  the  area  of 
magnetism  (field)  of  a  giant  magnet  something  like 
those  we  used  when  we  were  children.  This  coil  catches 
the  electricity  and  it  is  led  off  by  wires  wherever  we 
want  it  to  perform.  The  £oil  on  the  spindle  is  called 
the  armature,  where  the  wire  is  attached  to  lead  off  the 
electricity  from  the  armature  are  contact-pieces,  and  the 
plates  which  make  the  contact  with  the  contact  pieces 
and  to  which  are  attached  the  wires  of  the  out-going 
electric  circuit  are  called  the  brushes.  There  is  much 
more  to  say,  but  not  in  this  article.  If  you  are  interested 


INTRODUCING  YOU  TO  ELECTRICITY        3 

we  refer  you  to  Charles  R.  Gibson's  "Romance  of  Elec- 
tricity" for  simple  electrical  explanations. 

The  motor  with  a  few  mechanical  changes  is  the  re- 
verse of  the  dynamo ;  it  works  by  electricity  and  changes 
it  into  mechanical  power  to  work  our  washing  machines, 
etc.  There  are  on  the  market  A.  C,  D.  C,  and  Univer- 
sal motors.  These  you  will  understand  after  the  next 
section  which  takes  up  A.  C.  and  D.  C.  electricity. 

"Madam,  do  you  use  A.  C.  or  D.  C?"  asks  the  man 
selling  you  a  washing  machine.  Most  decent  folks  are 
quite  at  sea  at  this  seemingly  geographic  question,  and 
yet  after  all  it  is  the  most  complicated  simple  thing  in 
the  world.  D.  C.  doesn't  mean  District  of  Columbia;  it 
simply  means  Direct  Current.  And  A.  C.  means  Al- 
ternating Current.  And  on  these  two  kinds  hang  all  the 
wires  of  electric  profits. 

Direct  Current  or  D,  C.  is  a  current  that  runs  in 
one  direction  over  the  wii'e  like  water  through  a 
pipe.  It  is  simple  to  visualize,  even  if  electric- 
ity does  flow  163,000  miles  per  second.  But 
alternating  current  (A.  C.)  is  electricity  which  alter- 
nates and  goes  back  and  forth,  generally.  Even  though 
it  goes  back  and  forth  in  waves  of  tremendous  rapidity, 
you  can  see  that  there  must  be  a  time  in  this  period 
when  the  electricity  is  for  an  infinitesimal  space  of  time 
at  low  power,  and  another  infinitesimal  space  of  time  at 
high.  In  order  to  keep  the  supply  even  and  steady, 
two  and  sometimes  three  coils  of  wire  are  used  in  the 
generator  to  catch  the  electricity  so  that  there  is  scant 
opportunity  for  the  electric  supply  to  be  anything 
but  even,  for  when  one  coil  is  up  the  other  is  down  and 
thus  they  even  up  the  strength  of  the  current. 

So  when  your  salesman  asks  you  when  you  buy  a 
motor,  "If  you  have  A.  C.  or  D.  C.  electricity"  and  you 
say  A.  C.  he  may  go  on  and  say,  "How  many  phase?" 


4  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Then  you  should  find  out  the  answer  from  your  light- 
ing company.  He  then  may  ask  you  how  many  cycles, 
which  when  translated  means  the  electric  period  it  takes 
for  the  alternating  current  to  flow  back  and  forth. 

Now  dynamos  for  D.  C.  and  A.  C.  electricity  vary 
slightly,  but  that  need  not  trouble  us. 

The  reason  for  two  kinds  of  electricity  at  all  is  that 
each,  though  obeying  the  larger  laws,  has  its  own  pecul- 
iar habits  and  good  points. 

For  example,  alternating  current  can  be  carried  long 
distances  at  high  pressure  (high  voltage)  and  side- 
tracked by  a  transformer  to  a  little  home  and  the  pres- 
sure very  simply  reduced.  In  other  cases  the  pressure 
can  be  very  simply  increased.  Therefore  in  country 
districts  one  is  very  prone  to  see  A.  C.  in  vogue. 

The  same  amount  of  current,  whether  D.  C.  or  A.  C, 
is  used  for  lighting,  etc. 

A.  C.  is  not  used  for  electro-plating,  etc.,  or  for  storage 
batteries.  This  is  a  good  point  to  remember  if  you 
have  storage  batteries  to  supply  for  bells,  etc.,  and  your 
current  is  A.  C.  You  will  have  to  have  your  batteries 
charged  from  a  plant  which  makes  D.  C.  or  install  a 
small  * '  converter. ' '  If  you  attempt  to  use  the  A.  C.  you 
will  burn  out  your  plates. 

But  how  is  electricity  measured?  How,  in  other 
words,  do  we  know  how  much  we  use  and  how  can  we 
test  our  bills?  The  following  paradigm  will  give  the 
electric  measures  translated  into  more  familiar  terms  of 
water  measurement: 

Volt      Pressure 

Ampere    Rate    of    flow    of    current    per 

second 

Watt    Fraction  of  horsepower    (H.P.) 

Kilowatt    (1000  watts) H/j  H.P. 

Resistance    Friction    (as   water   resists   the 

sides  of  a  pipe.) 


INTRODUCING  YOU  TO  ELECTRICITY         5 

Ohms  (the  unit  of  Friction    (as    water   resists  the 

measuring  resistance).  sides  of  a  pipe). 

The  volt  takes  its  name  from  Volta,  an  Italian  scien- 
tist ;  the  ampere  from  a  Frenchman,  the  ohm  from 
a  German,  the  watt  from  an  Englishman.  We  hear 
most  about  volts  and  watts.  Voltage  is  found  by  multi- 
plying the  ohms  by  the  amperes.  The  volt  is  the  pres- 
sure that  makes  electricity  flow  through  the  wire,  and  the 
friction  of  resistance  to  its  flow  is  measured  by  the  ohm. 

The  amount  of  work  a  given  number  of  amperes  will 
do  at  a  certain  voltage  (pressure)   is  known  as  watts. 

So  if  by  chance  you  ever  need  formulfe  here  is  a 
little  one  for  your  card  catalogue: 

Ohms  X  amperes=volts. 
Volts-^-ohm=ampere. 
Volts  X  ampere=watts. 
1  Kilowatt=1000  watts. 
1000  watts=l^  H.  P. 

The  next  thing  which  is  necessary  for  the  householder 
to  know  is  how  to  compute  costs  of  electrical  usage. 

The  amount  of  electric  power  used,  for  example,  by 
the  electric  light  is  measured  in  watts.  Look  on  any 
incandescent  bulb  and  you  will  see  thereon  the  number 
of  watts — usually  around  50  or  60. 

In  order  to  know  how  many  watts  a  light  consumes, 
divide  the  number  of  watts  it  consumes  by  1000  to  re- 
duce it  to  a  something  of  a  kilowatt.  Then  multiply 
this  result  by  the  number  of  hours  the  lamp  has  been 
lit  by  the  kilowatt  to  get  the  kilowatt  hour  of  electricity. 
The  kilowatt  hour,  of  course,  multiplied  by  the  rate  per 
kilowatt  hour  in  your  locality  will  give  you  the  cost. 
The  rate  is  always  figured  on  the  kilowatt  hour. 

Watt-f-1000=kilowatts. 


6  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Kilowatt  Xhours=kilowatt  hours. 
Kilowatt  hours  Xrate=cost. 

Probably  it  would  be  a  good  thing  to  know  how 
to  read  the  meter,  which  generally  consists  of  four  little 
dials  which  are  read  from  right  to  left.  The  first  dial 
measures  the  tens,  the  second  the  hundreds,  the  third  the 
thousands,  the  fourth  the  ten  thousands.  Therefore 
if  the  hand  in  the  left  has  passed  9,  that  would  stand 
for  9000 

In  2nd  dial  nearest  to  1  that  would  stand  for        100 
In  3rd  dial  nearest  to  2,  that  would  stand  for  20 

In  4th  dial  nearest  to  1,  that  would 

stand  for  1 


9121 


The  total  is  9121  kilowatt  hours  and  this  multi- 
plied by  the  rate  (say  ten  cents)  as  it  is  in  some  places, 
would  mean  that  the  bill  for  this  consumption  would 
be  $92.2.  Now,  knowing  from  your  last  month's  bill 
that  the  reading  of  the  meter  then  was  82000 — by 
subtracting  you  find  that  the  actual  current  consumed 
was  921  K.  W.  hours,  which  multiplied  by  rate  (say  ten 
cents)  gives  you  $92.10  as  your  bill. 

To  quote  from  an  article  in  this  series  on  electric 
ranges  will  give  you  an  idea  as  to  how  to  buy  in  accord- 
ance with  voltage  and  how  the  cost  is  reckoned  in  watts: 

"It  is  necessary  when  ordering  a  range  to  give  the 
voltage  of  your  electricity  supply.  The  stoves  are  usu- 
ally prepared  for  110-220,  110  volts  with  two  wire  serv- 
ice from  the  street  or  110-220  volts  with  three  wire 
service.  In  some  stoves  the  cut-out  box  is  built  on  the 
range  directly  back  of  the  switches.  This,  then,  can  be 
easily  opened  if  anything  happens.  In  the  stock  stove 
there  is  made  an  extra  charge  for  voltage  exceeding 


INTRODUCING  YOU  TO  ELECTRICITY        7 

220  or  less  than  110,  because  alterations  have  to  be  made. 

According  to  the  size  of  heating  elements  in  the  stove, 
etc.,  the  wattage  runs  from  10,000  watts  or  10  kilowatts, 
which  is  the  same  thing,  to  about  2500  watts,  or  2i/^ 
kilowatts  on  a  small  three-heating-unit  range.  This 
gives  its  total  capacity  if  everything  goes  at  once.  The 
number  of  watts  used,  multiplied  by  our  local  rate,  say 
four  cents,  gives  the  cost  per  kilowatt  hour,  which  in 
this  case  would  be  40  cents  per  hour. 

Have  you  ever  wondered  how  electricity  changes  from 
current  to  heat?  Have  you  ever  wondered  how  we  can 
cook,  and  iron,  and  warm  a  room  by  it? 

It  is  due  to  electricity's  resistance,  which  is  measured 
in  ohms.  It  is  resistance  which  is  turned  into  heat. 
The  process  of  overcoming  resistance  results  in  throwing 
off  heat.     It  is  quite  familiar. 

Did  you  ever  rub  a  piece  of  wood  in  the  palm  of  your 
hand  for  a  little  while  and  feel  the  heat  given  off?  We 
call  it  friction,  but  it  is  really  the  giving  off  of  heat 
due  to  expenditure  of  mechanical  energy. 

The  same  thing  happens  with  the  electricity.  This 
electricity  which  travels  at  the  speed  of  163,000  miles 
a  second,  when  it  comes  into  frictional  relation  with 
its  conductor  pushes  aside  the  molecules  of  the  metal, 
and  here  the  mechanical  energy  is  magically  trans- 
formed into  heat. 

Some  Technical  Terms 

When  we  hear  short-circuit  mentioned,  what  does  it 
mean  to  us?  Well,  it  should  mean  that  the  path  of  the 
electricity  (electric  circuit)  has  been  suddenly  short- 
ened, the  electricity  has  escaped  through  the  ground  or 
over  another  conductor. 

Insulation  is  the  covering  by  which  the  escape  of 


8  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

electricity  through  the  wire  is  made  impossible. 
Always  see  to  it  that  the  insulation  is  in  perfect  condi- 
tion. 

All  wires  must  be  insulated.  In  damp  places  rubber 
covered  wire  must  be  used. 

Wires  must  always  be  protected  with  porcelain  tubes 
passing  through  partition  walls,  girders,  and  where  they 
pass  over  pipes,  and  other  wires,  etc. 

Incandescent  lights  are  merely  globes  with  a  vacuum 
in  which  a  filament  or  tungsten  or  some  other  highly  re- 
sistant material  meets  the  electric  current  and  glows 
through  its  very  resistant  power. 

The  switch  is  merely  a  device  to  open  and  close  the 
path  of  electricity. 

The  socket  is  the  termination  of  two  wires  from  the 
generator  or  battery,  into  which  the  bulb  of  the  light 
is  put  and  other  connections  made. 

You  will  notice  two  wires  on  every  electric  connection. 
This  is  to  make  a  complete  electric  circuit  (path)  to 
and  from  the  points  where  it  is  used. 

The  outlet  is  the  opening  where  the  socket  can  be 
placed.  The  more  outlets  you  have  in  your  home  be- 
fore building  the  better  off  you  will  be  forever  and  ever. 
A  convenient  outlet  (sometimes  called  a  baseboard  or 
wall  receptacle)  is  simply  a  place  for  conveniently  con- 
necting electric  appliances  to  your  electric  current,      i 

Fuses  are  things  we  hear  much  about.  They  are  the 
stop-gaps  really  between  danger  and  safety  and  though 
they  make  a  splutter  when  they  "blow  out"  i.  t 

that  they  should.  Briefly,  the  fuse  is  a  bit  of  leau  vY 
other  metal  with  a  low  melting  point  so  placed  that  when 
the  circuit  gets  overloaded  for  any  reason  the  metal  will 
melt  and  open  the  circuit,  stopping  the  electricity  and 
preventing  danger. 


INTRODUCING  YOU  TO  ELECTRICITY         9 

When  the  fuse  burns,  we  call  that  a  blow-out,  but  this 
burning  has  sated  us  from  dangerous  currents. 

Every  house  should  be  well  supplied  with  fuses,  and 
as  soon  as  they  are  blown  out,  restored.  Your  superin- 
tendent or  electrician  will  show  you  how  to  restore  the 
oft  blown-out  fuse.  So  it  is  wise  to  keep  a  few  new 
fuses  in  one's  home. 

The  fuse  will  blow  out  sometimes  if  you  allow  a  bit 
of  metal  from  a  lamp  shade  to  cavort  too  intimately 
with  the  excitable  parts  of  your  incandescent  bulb; 
then  the  wire  gets  overloaded  and  the  tin  or  lead  con- 
ductor on  the  fuse  melts  and  prevents  the  greater  cur- 
rent doing  any  damage.  It's  simple,  isn't  it?  The 
fuses  come  in  convenient  shape.  Sometimes  it  is  wise 
to  use  a  rubber  glove  when  putting  them  in.  We  have 
seen  a  sparking  do  a  bit  of  burning. 

Electricity  is  not  dangerous  when  properly  em- 
ployed. It  is  dangerous  when  you  use  it  wrongly.  If 
you  put  your  hand  under  a  boiling  hot  stream  of 
water  you  will  get  burnt.  If  you  put  your  hand  on  a 
red  hot  stove  you  will  get  burnt ;  if  you  burn  a  fire  in  a 
wooden  box  you  will  have  more  fire  than  you  bargained 
for;  if  you  inhale  gas  you  will  die.  Such  is  the  case 
with  electricity,  which  is  a  most  controllable  force 
if  you  are  not  ignorant  as  to  how  to  use  it.  However, 
i**  you  will  put  a  hot  curling  iron  on  your  table  without 
turning  off  your  current  you  will  have  a  cozy  little  fire 
start  UD ;  so  you  would  if  you  laid  down  a  cigaret  with- 
ov^^vh  »\  ir  it  out.  Most  accidents  occur  simply  because 
of  '^ii(4h  ridiculous  carelessness.  Mr.  A.  M.  Grant  of  the 
Manhattan  Electrical  Supply  Company  said  a  wise 
thing  in  reference  to  this  subject:  "Before  connecting 
any  appliance  to  your  lamp  socket  turn  out  the  light 
in  your  bulb;  then  you  know  that  your  current  is  off. 


10  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Never  attach  anything  to  anything  electrical  until  the 
current  is  off  and  never  go  away  and  leave  an  appliance 
with  the  electricity  turned  on." 

More  specifically,  in  using  any  electric  appliance  non- 
continuously,  shut  off  the  current  immediately  upon 
stopping.  Do  not  only  pull  out  the  plug  but  turn  off 
the  electricity. 

In  using  the  flat-iron  detach  the  plug  at  the  iron  as 
well  as  turn  off  the  current  from  the  socket. 

Remove  the  iron  from  the  goods  and  detach  the  plug 
when  called  away  from  the  ironing  board. 

Never  pull  the  plug  out  by  the  cord ;  always  grip  it  at 
the  spring. 

Always  replace  at  once  frayed  wires — as  the  ends 
often  collide  and  make  blow-outs. 

Don't  leave  your  electric  curling  iron  on  the  table 
cloth  and  do  something  else  about  the  room  without  first 
turning  off  the  current — or  you'll  have  a  cute  little  fire. 

Care  must  be  taken  in  using  too  many  cluster  plugs, 
because  the  electric  circuit  (path)  may  be  overloaded. 
That  is,  too  much  electricity  drawn  over  the  wire  which 
is  made  for  a  certain  load.  Then  your  fuse  will  blow 
out.  Extra  appliances  should  be  attached  to  different 
circuits.  This  a  good  electrician  will  regulate  for  you. 
Too  much  wattage  (horsepower)  over  one  circuit  is 
like  forcing  any  machinery  to  the  breaking  point.  A 
percolator,  toaster  and  a  lamp  are  too  heavy  a  load  for 
the  ordinary  circuit.  Connect  at  the  same  place  only 
those  appliances  that  are  of  low  wattage. 

Some  firms  have  now  made  percolators  and  water  heat- 
ers with  fuse-nut  or  safety  fuse  devices  which  melt  if 
overloaded  or  allowed  to  heat  up  without  any  liquid  in 
them  to  be  heated.  You  must  not  let  a  percolator 
"perc"  without  any  water  in  it.  People  complain  more 
about  good  percolators  because  their  heating  element 


INTRODUCING  YOU  TO  ELECTRICITY       11 

burns  out,  either  because  they  do  this  or  because  they 
have  it  connected  up  with  too  many  other  devices. 
Even  if  you  do  the  right  thing  in  these  respects,  don't 
forgot  to  disconnect  the  electricity  by  pulling  out  the 
plug. 

Don't  get  your  electricity  heating  pad  wet.  In  fact, 
don't  wet  any  electric  appliance  carelessly  or  you  may 
have  a  short  circuit. 

Remember  that  electricity,  magic  as  it  is,  can  burn 
as  well  as  any  flame,  so  don't  let  your  curtains  blow 
against  a  red  hot  electric  radiator  and  then  blame  it  on 
the  electricity  which  after  all  is  your  servant  if  you 
make  it  so  by  right  treatment. 

Always  ask  your  salesman  to  what  the  device  pur- 
chased should  be  attached.  Some  things  are  designed 
for  the  ordinary  lamp  socket,  and  others  need  different 
connections. 

Many  electric  appliances  have  the  pilot  light  to  tell 
you  whether  your  electric  current  is  on  or  off.  Yet  it 
is  wise  to  be  your  own  pilot  and  remember  what  you  are 
doing. 

Do  not  leave  your  electrical  installation  entirely  to 
your  architect.  Watch  what  is  happening.  Remem- 
ber you  need  as  many  outlets  as  you  possibly  can  afford ; 
the  more  you  have  the  better  lighting  you  can  have,  the 
better  electric  comforts  you  can  have.  If  you  have  few 
outlets  you  are  very  prone  to  overload  your  circuit,  and 
in  the  future  as  more  electric  devices  come  into  being 
you  will  have  to  pass  them  up.  Outlets  consume  no 
electricity  but  are  simply  entrances  where  electricity 
can  be  located  as  soon  as  the  appliance  is  connected  up 
with  it  and  turned  on. 

Above  all,  have  your  electric  installation  put  in  by 
the  most  responsible  and  experienced  people  you  can 
get  to  do  it. 


12  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

When  you  buy  appliances  always  ask  what  voltage 
they  require  and  find  out  what  your  own  voltage  is 
before  you  buy ;  also  find  out  whether  you  have  D.  C.  or 
A.  C,  and  if  A.  C.  find  out  what  phase  and  cycle. 
These  things  will  save  you  time  and  money  and  free  you 
from  any  apprehension  of  calamity  from  the  use  of 
electricity. 

There  is  much  left  unsaid  in  this  chapter.  It  would 
take  a  book  by  itself  to  say  everything. 


CHAPTER  II 

KEEPING  OUT  OF  HOT  WATER 

THERE  is  never  any  magic  about  household  equip- 
ment. You  must  not  expect  to  do  the  impossible. 
If  you  have  a  dishwasher  you  must  not  expect  it  to  do 
any  more  processes  of  washing  than  you  expect  of  your 
player  piano  of  playing.  The  dishwasher  is  to  wash, 
the  piano  to  play. 

Many  women  have  said,  "I  think  a  dishwasher  is  a 
nuisance,  you  have  to  stack  your  dishes,  hand-scrape 
pots  and  pans,  carry  water  by  the  pailful  and  then  have 
the  job  of  cleaning  the  dishwasher  itself.  The  only 
thing  it  does  is  to  wash  off  some  of  the  dishes." 

Well,  it  is  only  a  dishwasher.  Doesn't  the  automo- 
bile have  to  be  cleaned  and  oiled?  Why  should  the 
dishwasher  be  expected  to  polish  silver. 

Yet  we  do  solemnly  think  that  the  dishwasher  at- 
tached to  the  plumbing  of  the  house,  so  that  the  fresh 
water  comes  in  unlifted  by  the  operator  and  goes  out 
unheeded,  is  the  only  dishwasher  to  buy,  regardless  of 
how  it  is  worked — by  hand,  by  water  force  or  by  elec- 
tricity.    This  is  onfy  one  type. 

Some  of  the  best  dishwashers  are  made  unattached 
to  the  plumbing  so  that  they  can  be  wheeled  into  the 
dining  room  and  be  stacked  as  they  leave  the  table. 
This  is  a  rather  perfect  type  for  some  homes,  but  you 
must  have  it  fixed  so  that  when  it  arrives  dish  laden  in 
the  kitchen  or  pantry  it  can  be  attached  to  the  water 
supply  and  emptied  through  the  sewer.    This  is  the  only 

13 


14  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

way  to  get  maximum  comfort,  unless  you  or  your  cook 
enjoy  hauling  pails  of  water. 

Yet  we  can  imagine  many  women  who  would  rather 
haul  water  than  handle  dish  water.  And  here  is  where 
the  ''unattached"  dishwasher  wins  out  over  the  old- 
fashioned  style  of  washing  dishes.  The  chances  of 
breakage  are  less  where  the  dishes  are  not  washed 
separately  and  rehandled  for  drying  separately.  Dishes 
handled  when  dry  do  not  slip  so  readily,  to  fall  or 
break. 

For  the  most  part  these  machines  are  equipped  with 
a  motor  which  propels  a  fan  or  paddle  to  spray  or 
"swish"  and  whirl  the  water  about  among  the  dishes. 
The  efficiency  depends  not  only  on  the  speed  the  water 
travels  but  on  the  direction. 

For  example,  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  dish- 
washers is  not  run  by  hand  or  electricity,  but  it  is 
attached  to  the  drain  and  water  supply.  The  hot  water 
is  distributed  and  so  forced  against  the  dishes  that,  with- 
out soap,  they  are  washed  noiselessly.  No  soap  is  re- 
quired with  this  machine. 

It  has  taken  us  a  long  time  to  be  sold  to  this  dish- 
washer, but  we  are  convinced  that  it  is  the  type  to  use 
when  one  has  to  do  one 's  own  work. 

If  it  is  possible  to  use  very  hot  water  in  your  dish- 
washer, you  can  leave  the  top  of  your  machine  off  and 
the  dishes  will  dry  without  handwork.  Of  course,  there 
will  be  no  polish  on  the  glass  and  silver,  but  they  will 
be  dry. 

The  following  is  advice  given  by  those  who  sell  dish- 
washers : 

1.  You  must  have  hot  water — really  hot  water — to 
use  an  electric  dishwasher  successfully. 

2.  Use  the  soap  powder  the  manufacturer  supplies 
or  recommends.     Remember  that  suds  are  unnecessary 


mmmmamm 

Courtegy  of  Whirlpool  Mfg.  Co. 


A    WAY    TO    KEEP    OUT    OF       HOT    WATER   THE    PORTABLE 

DISHWASHER 


KEEPING  OUT  OF  HOT  WATER  17 

for  cleansing  and  are  hard  to  rinse  off,  anyway.    You 
need  an  ash  powder  which  will  cut  grease. 

3.  Dishes  covered  with  egg,  flour  mixtures,  etc., 
should  first  be  held  under  cold  water.  Hot  water  boils 
these  mixtures  and  makes  them  stick  closer  to  dishes. 

4.  Follow  the  manufacturer's  directions  as  to  placing 
dishes,  silver,  etc.  Get  the  knack — which  is  easily 
acquired — of  putting  in  the  dishes  with  the  fewest  mo- 
tions possible, 

5.  Experiment  with  the  much  disputed  point  of 
whether  dishwashers  will  wash  pots  and  pans.  Most 
dishwashers  will  clean  them  of  everything  except  burnt- 
on  food  or  particles  which  have  to  be  taken  off  with  a 
powder. 

6.  Note  how  easy  it  is  to  dry  the  silver  and  polish 
glassware,  and  that  while  you  are  doing  this  the  china 
dries  itself  and  needs  only  to  be  put  away. 

7.  If  you  have  a  small  family  do  not  wash  the  dishes 
after  every  meal,  but  stack  them  in  the  dishwasher  and 
wash  them  once  a  day,  say  after  breakfast. 

8.  Remember  that  dishwashing  is  but  one  of  a  series 
of  kitchen  operations.  To  begin  at  the  beginning,  and 
to  get  the  utmost  value  out  of  the  electric  dishwasher, 
glass,  aluminum  and  enamel  cooking  utensils  are  to  be 
recommended,  wherever  possible  without  handles,  so  that 
they  do  not  take  up  too  much  space  in  the  machine.  In 
cooking  and  serving,  clean  up  as  you  go,  using  as  few 
utensils  as  possible  in  your  cooking  (all  modern  house- 
workers  recommend  this  procedure,  although  it  does  not 
always  meet  with  the  approval  of  housekeepers  gener- 
ally), stacking  bowls,  plates,  spoons,  etc.,  in  the  dish- 
washer as  you  work,  thus  having  a  comparatively  clean 
kitchen  when  you  are  ready  to  serve  the  meal. 

9.  See  that  the  dishwasher  is  properly  placed  in  rela- 
tion to  the  entire  dishwashing  performance.    The  ideal 


18  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

placement  is  near  the  dining  room  or  pantry  door,  so 
that  it  receives  the  dishes  without  extra  steps,  and  adja- 
cent to  cupboard  where  dishes  are  put  away. 

You  will  perhaps  think  this  is  a  lot  to  do,  but  didn't 
you  have  to  learn  to  "do"  things  on  your  vacuum 
cleaner,  your  washing  machine,  your  typewriter,  too? 
"Weren  't  you  willing  to  learn  how  to  run  your  own  car  ? 

When  buying  a  dishwasher,  look  at  the  racks.  Be 
sure  they  are  smooth  and  easily  cleaned,  finished  so 
that  there  is  naught  to  peel  off  and  catch  food.  Also 
be  sure  these  racks  fit  and  are  not  cantankerous  in  go- 
ing back  into  the  machine.  If  they  are  diflScult  to  ma- 
nipulate the  misery  is  untold. 

In  purchasing  look  for  the  following  points: 

1.  The  dishwasher  must  be  smooth  inside. 

2.  No  comers  to  harbor  bits  of  food. 

3.  Self  cleansing. 

4.  Dishes  placed  so  as  to  be  unmoveable  and  not  stick 
together. 

5.  Cost  of  electricity  low,  from  one  to  two  cents  per 
washing. 

6.  Capacity  to  be  convenient  to  your  uses. 

7.  Operates  in  kitchen  or  pantry. 

8.  Operates  from  three  to  fifteen  minutes. 

9.  The  water  penetrates  all  sides  of  dishes. 

10.  Easy  to  fill  and  empty  whether  attached  or  unat- 
tached to  water  and  outlet  systems. 

Some  booklets  advertise  the  fact  that  machines  require 
only  six  quarts  of  water — less  water  than  in  ordinary 
dishwashing.  The  water,  unless  it  is  to  be  hand 
handled,  need  not  trouble  anyone.  But  it  is  a  well 
known  fact  that  dishes  to  be  washed  satisfactorily  must 
have  water  used  on  them  without  stint. 

The  most  satisfactory  soaps  are  the  white  powders. 
A  new  powder,  on  the  market,  which  isn't  soap  at  all, 


KEEPING  OUT  OP  HOT  WATER  19 

does  not  leave  a  greasy  residue  and  make  a  difficulty 
of  cleaning  out  the  dishwater.  In  a  good  dishwasher, 
however,  the  water  force  banishes  residue  of  all  kinds. 
One  manufacturer  of  a  good  dishwasher  is  honest 
enough  to  say  that  for  a  good  effect  silver  and  glasses 


Courtesy  of  Western  Electric  Co. 

THE    DISHWASHER    WHICH    IS    A    TABLE    WHEN    NOT   WASHING 

should  always  be  polished  coming  out  of  the  dishwasher, 
because  any  method  of  washing  will  always  leave  a  film. 
Many  a  dishwasher  has  been  sold  on  the  pretext  that 
this  is  unnecessary  and  the  result  has  been  dissatisfac- 
tion and  a  psychological  dislike  of  the  machine. 

To  be  sure,  an  ordinary  dirty  pot  or  pan  can  be 


20  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

cleaned  on  a  dishwasher.  The  burnt-on  type  of  dirt 
must  be  scraped  off  by  hand. 

Warning:  don't  burn  in  food,  so  use  utensils  where 
you  reduce  this  possibility  to  a  minimum.  Some  dish- 
washer concerns  supply  you  with  hand-saving  scrapers. 

A  dishwasher  in  the  shape  of  a  table,  beautifully  fin- 
ished, makes  it  unnecessary  to  have  an  extra  table  about. 
This  does  its  work  well.  One  example  of  this  table-high 
dishwasher  has  a  device  whereby  the  rack  of  dishes  is 
lifted  to  a  reachable  height  by  lifting  the  lid. 

Another  supplies  you  with  extra  baskets  in  which  to 
stack  your  dishes  while  the  full  basket  is  being  used  in 
the  washer. 

Yet  another  cylinder  type  has  a  cover  that  goes  back 
flat,  on  which  can  be  laid  the  tray  to  be  filled  with 
dishes. 

At  present  some  of  these  machines  make  a  slight 
noise  in  operation ;  yet  many  do  not  mind  this.  But  in 
telling  a  story  we  must  tell  it  all.  Of  course  many  other 
machines  used  in  the  home  are  no  "modest 
violets"  either.  We  don't  need  to  listen  hard  to  hear 
vacuum  cleaners  or  patent  brooms,  but  they  work 
well  despite  their  blatansies. 

Washing  machines  are  made  in  cylindrical  and  rec- 
tangular form  and  can  be  placed  in  small  kitchens  as 
well  as  large  without  inconvenience.  Of  course  there 
are  some  machines  called  "Domestic"  that  are  meant 
for  the  domesticity  of  a  home  where  there  are  seventeen 
servants  and  other  things  equally  hotel-like.  These 
are  big  and  efficient  but  the  ordinary  apartment  or  small 
home  could  not  afford  to  house  them. 

The  dishwasher  really  is  the  crux  of  the  economic 
problem.  Many  a  girl  would  marry  gladly  without  a 
maid,  if  the  dishwashing  was  reduced  to  a  minimun. 


KEEPING  OUT  OF  HOT  WATER  21 

One  of  these  days  when  lovers  offer  dishwashers  in  ad- 
dition to  the  conventional  platinum  solitaires,  they  will 
find  winning  a  bride  a  much  easier  task  than  it  is  at 
present. 


CHAPTER  III 

ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH ! 

<*/^AN'T   afford,"  is  the   first   thing  that   is  said 

\^  against  the  installation  of  electrical  equipment 
in  the  home.  Equipment  for  offices  is  placed  because  it 
is  saving  of  time  and  money  and  energy,  but  equipment 
for  the  home  is  often  grudgingly  installed  just  because 
makeshifts  have  been  the  rule  for  so  long. 

Quite  true  is  it,  that  you  often  have  a  hard  time  to 
prove  to  your  husband  that  the  washer  is  a  money  saver, 
that  the  ironer  too  is  a  saver  of  mone'y.  But 
this  can  be  done  very  easily.  Let  money  talk  and  the 
machinery  will  almost  install  itself! 

The  laundry  equipment,  of  course,  is  a  serious  thing 
and  must  be  taken  so.  Many  things  should  be  investi- 
gated before  buying,  your  needs  known  to  yourself. 
Equipment  should  not,  like  marriage,  be  entered  into 
unadvisedly,  for  when  you  spend  money  you  must  spend 
it  as  an  investment  and  not  as  a  mere  lark.  You  must 
get  your  return  on  the  investment  or  you  have  thrown  it 
away. 

If  you  do  not  know  what  to  get,  read,  use  shoe  leather 
and  ask  those  who  have  the  thing  you  want.  The 
manufacturers  too  are  glad  to  talk  over  your  needs. 

Requirements  of  the  Home  Laundry 

A  satisfactory  laundry  depends  on: — 

1.  The  location  of  room,  its  relation  to  outdoor  drying 

22 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH  23 

and  its  relation  to  the  source  of  supply  of  incoming  laun- 
dry. 

2.  Proper  floor,  ceiling  and  walls.  All  joints  curved, 
no  comers. 

3.  Selection  of  equipment.  The  types  and  kinds  best 
fitted  to  size  of  family  and  room. 

4.  The  advantageous  disposal  of  appliances  purchased. 

5.  Thorough  instruction  of  operators  in  the  use  of  the 
machinery,  as  a  good  machine  is  useless  unless  the 
operator  knows  the  requirements. 

6.  Proper  care  of  appliances. 

7.  Sanitary  conditions:  light  and  ventilation.  Good 
air  is  part  of  all  good  laundry  work. 

8.  The  acceptance  of  the  worker  to  use  cheerfully  the 
machinery  and  the  adequate  payment  of  the  worker. 

9-  Knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  housekeeper  or  mis- 
tress of  the  laundry  procedure  in  order  to  oversee  more 
intelligently  the  work  done.  Women  seem  to  think  a 
knowledge  of  cookery  necessary  but  give  little  heed  to 
the  importance  of  the  laundry. 

10.  A  system  developed  and  maintained  for  the 
laundering  of  clothes. 

So  much  for  the  general  principles.     This  chapter 
will  not  deal  at  all  with  methods  of  laundry  work  .  .  . 
as  is. 

The  only  reason  for  the  electric  laundry  is  that  it  does 
save  time,  money  and  energy  and  prolongs  the  life  of 
clothes  to  a  certain  degree. 

In  doing  missionary  work  in  the  past  for  these  things, 
people  said:  "you  can  lead  a  maid  to  the  washer  but 
you  can't  make  her  wash."  They  said  this  too  about 
the  horse  and  the  trough,  yet  if  he  never  drank  he  would 
have  died  of  thirst !  So  much  for  that  argument.  You 
may  as  well  say :  You  can  lead  a  cook  to  the  soup  pot 
but  you  can't  make  him  stir! 


24  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Money  talks  to  husbands!  you  can  prove  the  saving. 
Less  work  talks  to  laundresses,  you  can  prove  the 
saving. 

Generally  Speaking 

A  good  equipment  for  a  house  with  six  in  the  family 
and  three  to  four  servants  is  as  follows: 

A  tiled  floor.  The  large  blue  tile  is  interesting  and 
less  glaring  for  the  floor  than  the  white.  Linoleum 
floors  too  are  splendid  and  cream  walls. 

Washer  %  h.  p.;  solid  copper  lined  with  planished 
tin  to  prevent  corrosion,  white  enamel  ironing  machine, 
two  rolls ;  clothes  dryer  with  four  heating  units ;  clothes 
boiler  solid  copper  lined  with  planished  tin  with  screen 
for  holding  clothes  off  the  bottom  of  the  boiler;  combi- 
nation sleeve  and  skirt  board;  two  metal  tables;  over- 
head clothes  dryer,  copper  clothes  extractor;  four  sta- 
tionary tubs;  electric  irons  for  valeting  and  fine  work. 

The  Electric  Ironer 

A  great  fuss  has  been  made  about  setting  the  clock 
ahead  one  hour  to  save  time  and  daylight,  but  little 
attention  has  been  given  the  problem  of  saving  four 
hours  every  ironing  day  by  means  of  electricity  and  the 
ironing  machine.  A  good  machine,  unlike  the  mangle 
which  only  folds  and  is  not  heated,  should  be  able  to  iron 
at  the  rate  of  seven  or  eight  feet  per  minute.  In  this 
way  the  ordinary  ironing  can  be  done  four  times  as 
quickly  as  by  the  old  method. 

Many  a  house-wife  without  a  maid  has  found  ironing 
good  sport  with  a  good  ironer  and  the  labor  saving  de- 
vices have  often  made  marriage  possible — where  a  serv- 
ant was  too  much  of  a  luxury. 

Roughly,  the  ordinary  laundry  takes  about  half  a  day 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH  25 

— one  hour  for  eight  pieces  for  the  average  family  of 
five,  including  all  things  from  table  linen  to  handker- 
chiefs. By  hand  this  is  about  four  and  a  half  to  five 
hours.  This  costs  about  $50  to  $100  a  year  or  $500 
to  $1,000  for  ten  years'  supply  of  laundered  possessions. 

The  fuel  consumed  for  the  average  ironing  with  coal 
or  electricity  costs  about  $15.60  per  year:  With  a 
good  machine  ironing  by  electricity  or  gas  will  come  to 
about  one  and  a  half  cents,  or  a  total  of  three  cents  for 
ironing  and  heating,  which  is  a  saving  of  twenty-seven 
cents  a  week  or  $14.04  yearly.  In  ten  years  a  saving  of 
$140.  This  is  apart  from  the  benefit  to  health  and 
strength. 

There  is  one  on  the  market  with  a  bench  attached  on 
which  the  worker  can  sit  down  to  her  work.  As  the 
feed  is  so  arranged  that  the  material  turns  under,  be- 
cause of  the  adjustable  delivery  board,  one  doesn't 
have  to  rise  at  all,  and  the  saving  of  strength  and  com- 
fort is  beyond  calculation. 

An  ordinary  table  cloth  on  an  ironing  machine  takes 
about  three  or  four  minutes.  With  a  good  electric  iron 
it  takes  about  twenty-five  to  thirty.  Besides  this  the 
cloth  is  ironed  evenly  and  the  pattern,  if  it  be  embroid- 
ered, is  evenly  brought  out.  Initials  come  out  in  beau- 
tiful relief,  buttons  on  garments  do  not  break  because 
of  the  deeply  padded  felt  rolls  which  are  covered  with  an 
especially-made  muslin. 

As  an  ironing  machine  has  proven  a  practical,  money- 
saving  proposition,  what  is  the  best  way  to  purchase 
one?  First,  you  should  have  a  good  idea  as  to  the 
breadth  on  the  average  of  your  sheets  and  table  cloths, 
not  forgetting  that  it  is  wise  to  have  a  machine  wide 
enough  to  carry  two  table  napkins  at  once.  This  saves 
time,  saves  the  over-impression  of  the  felt  in  one  spot  and 
also  uses  up  the  whole  length  of  heat  along  the  roll. 


26  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

In  large  households,  where  the  work  is  unusually 
heavy,  often  taking  more  than  one  day,  a  machine  about 
48"  or  56"  is  used  for  21/2-8  yards  of  linen.  These 
rolls  should  be  padded,  the  heavier  the  better,  to  take 
care  of  heavily  embroidered  initials. 

Many  persons  think  that  an  ironing  machine  is  a  man- 
gle limited  to  ironing  only  the  coarser  flat  work  such  as 
sheets,  towels,  etc.  It  is,  however,  not  a  mangle  but  an 
ironer  and  will  iron  practically  everything  except  the 
more  fancy  shirt  waists  and  elaborate  dresses.  It  will 
iron  to  the  entire  satisfaction  kitchen  aprons,  night- 
gowns, pajamas,  underwear,  children's  play  clothes, 
hosiery,  men's  negligee  and  silk  shirts,  and  iron,  better 
than  an  expert  laundress  can  do  by  hand,  tablecloths, 
napkins  and  centerpieces,  doilies,  dresser  scarfs,  blan- 
kets, sheets,  bed  spreads,  pillow  cases,  towels  and  hand- 
kerchiefs. It  is  a  great  help  to  curtains,  as  they  will 
hang  perfectly  after  ironing.  Trousers  may  also  be 
pressed  in  such  a  machine. 

The  ironing  machines  on  the  market  claim  certain 
best  points.  One  that  a  moveable  shoe  (the  heated 
part  under  which  the  garment  is  passed)  is  good  be- 
cause you  can  remove  starchy  accumulations  and  clean  it 
easily.  Some  say  that  the  stationary  shoe  is  the  best 
because  the  ironing  cannot  help  being  done  evenly.  You 
will  have  to  pick  your  machine. 

In  another  machine  the  manufacturers  use  their  pat- 
ented gas  burner  of  drilled  holes  and  their  air  mixture 
as  a  talking  point  to  afford  a  gas  saving.  Another 
claims  that  oiling  is  necessary  only  every  six  months. 

The  feed  board  is  a  requisite  part  which  must  be  per- 
fect. Lowering  the  feed  board  removes  the  roll  from 
contact  with  the  ironing  surface  in  some  machines. 
This  is  the  same  principle  as  putting  the  hand  iron  on 
the  rest.    At  the  same  time  the  motion  of  the  roll  is 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH  27 

automatically  stopped,  so  that  the  goods  can  be  with- 
drawn at  any  time.  It  also  enables  one  to  lay  a  folded 
piece  or  a  number  of  them  on  and  over  the  roll,  and 
it  insures  a  straight  start  at  all  times.  On  single  or 
double  thicknesses  of  goods  the  feed-board  need  not  be 
lowered,  as  these  will  start  in  readily.  This  patented 
feature  means  safety  to  the  operator  and  safety  to  the 
goods  being  ironed.  The  feed-board  is  the  flat  piece  of 
board  running  the  length  of  the  machine  over  which 
the  linen  passes. 

Some  machines  are  advertised  as  having  all  gears  en- 
closed and  protected.  This,  of  course,  makes  operation 
safer. 

The  swinging  arms,  two  generally,  provided  for  hang- 
ing linen  on,  are  a  convenient  addition. 

An  Extraordinary  Advance 

The  above  is  the  usual  list  of  machines  made  to-day 
but  there  is  an  unusual  one  now  on  the  market.  This 
one  works  entirely  by  electricity,  it  can  be  heated  by 
gas  or  electricity.  There  are  no  levers  to  handle,  no 
treadles  to  tread.  It  works  completely  by  a  switch 
and  dial.  The  little  finger  is  sufficient  only  to  do  the 
job  if  all  your  other  fingers  were  disabled ! 

It  is  a  very  convenient  size  for  family  use  and  has 
been  in  use  now  long  enough  to  assure  perfection  of 
adaptability  for  the  home. 

In  case  this  all-electric  machine  has  a  blow  out,  and 
to  protect  the  clothes  from  burning  on  the  shoe  there 
is  simple  provision  to  guard  against  this  and  all  ills. 
The  shoe  by  a  button  works  back  and  forth  if  necessary, 
and  taken  altogether  it  is  a  beautiful  mechanism. 

A  few  excellent  machines,  too,  have  the  two  rollers 
instead  of  one.  This  is  supposed  to  hold  material  firmer 
and  work  more  expeditiously. 


28  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


Good  Points 

In  some  cases  the  gas  burner  and  electric  heater 
are  divided  in  the  center  so  that  the  burner  can  be  used 
on  warm  work  without  scorching  the  unused  part  of 
the  roll. 

The  machines  should  be  so  made  that  they  are 
comparatively  easy  to  clean. 

Levers  are  not  quite  as  good  as  the  automatic,  adjust- 
able feed-board,  which  insures  ease  of  control.  It  is 
worked  by  raising  and  lowering.  This  brings  the  roll 
in  contact  with  the  ironing  surface,  the  same  principle 
as  a  hand  iron  is  brought  to  and  from  its  rest.  The 
action  also  stops  and  starts  the  rotation  of  the  roller. 
In  other  words,  it  is  automatic  and  there  is  no  possibility 
of  the  operator  becoming  confused  at  a  critical  moment. 
There  are  no  levers  to  pull  or  switches  to  turn;  the 
control  is  instinctive  and  always  under  the  hands  of  the 
operator  for  instant  use.  Moreover,  you  can  lay  your 
work  over  the  roll  while  idle,  insuring  a  straight  edge 
and  start  the  work  again  at  your  convenience. 

Ironing  on  these  machines  is  done  on  the  same  prin- 
ciple as  with  a  flat  iron,  only  instead  of  passing  the  iron 
over  the  goods,  the  goods  are  moved  against  a  stationary 
iron. 

Power  and  Fuel 

Gas,  gasoline  and  electricity  are  the  fuels  used  to 
heat  the  machines.  Electricity  and  hand-power  turn 
them. 

Motors  come  from  %  to  ^4  horse  power  depending 
on  the  size  of  the  machine.  "When  buying  one,  be  sure 
to  tell  agent  whether  you  have  Alternating  Current 
(A.  C.)  or  Direct  Current  (D.  C.)  and  what  voltage 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH  29 

you  have.  Motors  are  generally  supplied  110,  220  volts 
D.  C.  and  60  Cycle  110,  or  220  volts  A.  C.  (We  are 
not  considering  here  the  belt  driven  larger  sizes.) 

About  y%  of  a  pint  of  gasoline  is  used  on  the  smaller 
size  machine.  Sometimes  the  amount  increases  to  Xy^ 
pints;  from  about  17  to  33  cubic  feet  of  gas.  In  the 
case  of  electricity  as  fuel  for  high  heat,  2.5  to  6  kilo- 
watts are  used.  For  medium  1.7  to  4.  For  low  .85 
to  2. 

The  current  driving  the  machine  is  from  180  to  320 
watts  per  hour. 

Size 

The  household  models  come  46",  42",  37",  32"  actual 
ironing  widths.  The  46"  and  42"  seem  to  be  popular 
with  some  manufacturers.  The  former  is  for  21/0  yards 
or  90"  wide  and  22"  small  linen,  and  the  latter  for  21^4 
yards  or  81"  wide  or  20''  small  linen.  The.  37"  for  2 
yards-wide  linen.  Size  32"  takes  up  actually  about  42" 
X  26"  of  floor  space,  the  37"— 47"  x  26",  the  46"— 58"  x 
25",  etc.  There  is  one  ironing  machine  on  the  market 
that  is  separate  from  its  base  so  that  it  can  be  set  up 
in  an  apartment  on  the  top  of  a  radiator  or  on  a  14" 
shelf.     This  answers  the  wants  of  the  "flat  dweller." 

It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  one  agent  in  New  York 
is  shipping  1000  ironing  machines  daily,  many  of  which 
go  to  Boston.  This  is  due  to  the  low  rate  of  electricity 
that  prevails  in  that  city.  And  here's  a  point: — even 
in  some  vicinities  where  the  rate  is  low,  where  two 
lines  only  supply  a  whole  state  with  electricity,  it  is 
not  advisable  to  use  electricity  for  machines.  You  must 
have  a  good  current,  even  service,  etc.,  to  make  it  worth 
while. 


30  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


How  To  Operate 

You  light  the  burners  on  these  machines  as  you  light 
the  gas,  turn  the  electric  switch  and  iron.  It  is  quite 
simple  and  safe.  Many  of  the  machines  have  a  pilot 
light  to  tell  when  the  current  (electric)  is  on  or  off. 
To  heat  by  electricity  all  you  do  is  to  attach  the  cord 
to  the  ordinary  wall  socket. 

A  hand-power  machine  is  driven  by  turning  a  handle. 
Thirty-five  turns  a  minute  is  the  right  speed.  It  can 
be  converted  any  time  into  a  belt-driven  machine  audi 
attached  to  the  washing  machine  or  anything  else  that 
goes  by  motor. 

The  saving  in  health  of  operator  whether  wife  or 
servant  and  the  saving  of  the  life  of  linens,  etc.,  is 
beyond  computation. 

The  best  type  of  ironer  has  (1)  the  stationary  iron- 
ing shoe  under  which  the  felt  padded  cylinder  revolves. 
This  insures  evenly  distributed  heat  and  avoids  the 
chance  of  scorching  clothes. 

In  some  machines  this  shoe  can  be  set  back  in  case 
of  accident  and  prevents  the  clothes  on  roller  from  be- 
ing burnt.  (2)  Feed  board  instead  of  lever.  This 
gives  more  rapid  control  and  is  more  responsive  to  the 
touch.  (3)  Electric  switch  instead  of  lever  or  feed 
board. 

A  Few  Pertinent  Questions  And  Answers 

How  long  would  it  take  to  iron  a  table  cloth  by 
the  machine? 

About  three  or  four  minutes  in  comparison  to  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  by  the  expert  laundress  using  an  electric 
iron.     A  saving  in  current  and  time. 

What  about  handsome  linens  with  heavy  initials? 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH  31 

"The  pad  on  the  roller  should  be  plenty  soft  enough 
to  imbed  not  only  the  initials  but  carry  buttons  and  not 
break  them!" 

"What  things  can't  you  iron  with  it?" 

"Only  fancy  waists  and  skirts.  Laces  can  be  beauti- 
fully done  and,  of  course,  all  the  table  and  bed  linens, 
trousers,  etc.,  etc.,  etc," 

"How  big  are  these  machines?" 

"They  come  in  four  different  sizes,  but  the  ordinal^ 
home  can  use  the  46-inch  cylinder  or  at  least  as  wide 
as  your  widest  linen  to  the  best  advantage.  That  en- 
ables fewer  folds  and  more  ironing  lay-out  on  roll,  en- 
abling you  to  put  a  few  napkins  on  the  roll  at  the  same 
time  instead  of  one." 

The  Washing  Machine 

The  variety  of  washing  machines  on  the  market  to- 
day are  scheduled  in  three  figures. 

The  following  will  give  you  an  idea  of  the  better 
known  types  from  which  to  weed  out  yours. 

A.    Types 

1.  Rotary  or  cylinder. 

In  which  the  wash  is  put  into  a  perforated  cylinder 
which  revolves  through  the  soapy  water. 

2.  Oscillating. 

In  which  the  wash  is  put  into  the  machine  and  is 
washed  by  being  shaken  back  and  forth  with  enough 
friction  and  motion  to  clean  clothes  thoroughly. 
The  bottoms  of  these  machines  are  corrugated  or  in 
some  shape  to  offer  resistance  and  cause  the  necessary 
friction. 

3.  Vacuum. 

In  which  the  clothes  are  put  into  machine  and  are 
washed  by  the  operation  of  vacuum  or  suction  cups 


32  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

raised  up   and  down,   drawing  the  water  through 
clothes. 

4.  Dolly. 

In  which   clothes  are  washed  by  the  semi-rotating 
dolly  or  device  which  looks  like  a  milking  stool. 

5.  Combination  of  these  types  such  as  the  Dolly  and 
Disc  Twin  tubs  with  a  mechanism  in  each,  washers 
with  a  bench  upon  which  to  place  wash  basket,  etc., 
oscillating  cylinder  as  well  as  rotating.  As  to  wring- 
ers on  these  machines,  they  are  stationary,  swinging 
or  sliding. 

The  latest  type  is  the  alternating.  Here  the  drum 
rotates,  and  is  divided  into  two  compartments  by  a  per- 
forated plate.  The  clothing  to  be  washed  is  divided) 
equally  between  the  two  compartments,  and  the  mechan- 
ical action  of  the  machine  produces  alternately  the  ac- 
tion of  the  cylinder,  oscillating  and  the  vacuum  method. 

6.  A  good  combination  in  cylinder,  oscillating  and  vac- 
uum type,  has  just  been  added  to  the  market. 

7.  Balance  drum,  in  which  the  clothes  are  put  in  a  drum 
and  it  shakes  on  a  pivot. 

8.  Cylinder  type  worked  by  water  force — for  hotel 
room  use. 

9.  Vacuum  and  cylinder  types  for  tub  use  run  by 
electricity — for  houses  too  small  in  which  to  bring  a 
washing  machine. 

B.  General  Bequirements  of  Washers 

1.  All  parts  which  might  tear  clothes  should  be  covered. 

2.  All  washers,  if  not  stationary,  should  be  equipped 
with  swinging  reversible  wringer, 

3.  Hard  wood  outside  or  copper  or  some  hard  metal  and 
to  prevent  corrosion  in  the  case  of  copper  exterior, 
planished  tin  interiors  are  the  best. 

4.  Durability. 

5.  Ease  and  simplicity  of  operation. 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASfl  S5 

6.  Minimum  parts  to  take  out  and  clean. 

7.  Less  wear  and  tear  on  clothes. 

8.  Automatic  release  on  ringer  in  case  finger  is  caught. 

9.  All  interiors  smooth,  non-absorbent  of  soil  or  odors. 

10.  Wash  and  wring  at  same  time  or  separately. 

Now  you  have  the  requirements,  you  can  take  your 
choice  after  you  have  gone  about  comparing  and  ex- 
amining all  the  different  types. 

Dryers 

"What  about  the  dryers?" 

They  are  one  of  the  things  that  you  could  get  along 
without  if  you  wanted  to  waste  time  in  drying.  They 
are  expensive  to  buy,  but  you  are  never  held  up  by 
weather.  They  dry  clothes  a  good  color  and  you  do  not 
miss  the  sun.  They  are  heated  by  their  own  heat,  elec- 
tric or  gas  or  can  be  attached  to  the  coal  stove  and  get 
the  overflow  heat.  They  are  made  to  allow  no  heat  to 
escape   even   when  extended.     (See   illustration.) 

Up  until  late  years  women  not  convicts  have  been 
time  servers.  But  long  before  the  vote  was  women's, 
there  was  a  mighty  revolt  and  women  decided  it  became 
them  better  to  be  time  savers  and  not  time  servers. 

For  this  reason  in  gallant  fashion  manufacturers  have 
rushed  to  fill  the  needs  of  women  in  their  homes  and 
from  soaps  to  ironing  machines  have  they  labored  and 
not  in  vain. 

For  example,  in  ancient  days  if  it  rained  on  Monday 
(then  called  Moan  day)  or  was  Monday  humid,  the 
work  either  had  to  be  given  up  because  drying  was 
impossible  or  the  whole  household  work  had  to  be  dis- 
located by  the  transference  of  wash  day  to  a  more 
sunny  occasion,  to  a  day  when  drying  was  not  a  theory 
but  an  inevitable  accomplishment. 

No  longer  need  we  say,  "If  at  first  you  can't  succeed, 


36  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

dry,  dry  again."  For  the  heated  air  dryer  has  come 
for  the  laundry  of  the  private  home  as  well  as  for  the 
apartment  cellar,  and  drying  has  become  an  indoor 
sport  rather  than  an  outdoor  hazard. 

These  dryers  are  merely  galvanized  metal  of  from  two 
to  ten  compartments  from  46"  to  53"  wide  and  about 
5'  high.  The  compartments  pull  out  as  easily  as  a  watch 
stem  and  each  drying  rack  has  six  drying  rods  66'  long 
or  a  total  of  33'  of  rack.  Each  rack  is  about  10"  wide. 
The  ordinary  length  of  the  rack  is  5'  10"  and  the 
distance  from  the  back  of  the  cabinet  to  the  end  of  the 
racks  is  about  11'  8".  When  the  cabinet  is  closed  the 
track  which  protrudes  overhead  can  be  used  to  hang 
clothes  on.  The  overhead  track  is  far  more  convenient 
than  the  floor  wheels  upon  which  some  racks  pull  out, 
as  the  floor,  should  it  be  uneven,  will  prevent  ease  of 
operation  of  the  racks  and  annoyance  will  ensue.  Single 
dryers  can  be  bought  with  two  racks  only  23"  or  so 
wide  for  smaller  rooms. 

These  cabinets  can  be  sunk  flush  in  the  wall  and  take 
up  no  more  room  if  the  building  is  so  constructed  or  lie 
against  or  at  right  angles  to  the  wall.  The  heat  does 
not  permeate  the  room  in  well-made  dryers.  Any  stove 
used  in  the  laundry  should  not  be  in  connection  with 
the  dryer. 

The  dryer  which  really  does  its  work  should : 

1.  Not  overheat  clothes. 

2.  Not  sweat  them. 

3.  Not  turn  them  yellow. 

4.  Thoroughljy  ventilate  them. 

5.  Remove  all  odors. 

6.  Dry  them  rapidly. 

7.  Make  them  easy  to  iron. 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH  37 

TEffiORY  AND  Practice 

It  has  been  imagined  that  sun  and  wind  alone  dry 
clothes  but  the  fact  is  that  air  is  the  drying  medium 
and  therefore  the  best  dryers  provide  a  good  circula- 
tion of  air  plus  heat.  Dry  air  has  a  tremendous  love 
for  moisture  and  eats  it  up  as  a  blotter  eats  up  ink. 
The  warmer  the  air  the  more  moisture  it  will  hug. 
This  would  seem  enough,  just  to  bake  the  clothes,  but 
baking  does  not  remove  odors  and  does  render  them 
yellow;  they  are  unventilated  and  smell  like  the  laun- 
dry, so  people  are  prone  to  say  **Sun  drying  or  noth- 
ing." 

However,  the  best  dryers  provide  for  circulation  of 
air.  At  its  best  the  air  changes  from  250  to  300  times 
an  hour.  The  air  must  change,  for  after  one  lot  of  air 
holds  all  the  moisture  it  can,  it  cannot  take  any  more 
from  the  clothes,  and  new  avid  air  must  be  substituted 
for  that  which  is  moisture-fed.  This  is  accomplished  by 
a  moist  air  exhaust  in  the  newer  dryers,  which  are  larger 
than  the  older  types.  The  result  is  white,  odorless, 
air-swept  clothing. 

The  stream  of  air  is  usually  accomplished  by  the  use 
of  ordinary  chimney  draft  assisted  by  the  warm  prod- 
ucts of  heating  from  the  heater.  The  hot  air  products 
of  combustion  pass  through  a  tapered  nozzle  into  the 
moist  air  exhaust  pipe,  and  by  the  speed  a  suction  is 
created  which  helps  to  puU  the  moist  air  out  of  the  cab- 
inet and  up  the  chimney. 

When  you  buy  a  dryer  see  to  it  that  the  exhaust  pipe 
is  large  so  that  you  will  have  wind  and  heat  instead  of 
just  heat.  Air  circulation  is  what  you  are  really  buy- 
ing.   See  that  you  get  it. 


38  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


Superficial  Points 

AU  parts  upon  which  clothes  hang  should  be  non-rust- 
ing. 

The  racks  must  pull  out  without  any  expenditure  of 
strength  and  must  run  quietly. 

Racks  must  be  within  the  reach  of  the  average  sized 
woman,  to  avoid  stretching. 

The  heating  burner  must  be  simple  and  easily  reached 
so  that  you  can  tell  at  a  glance  how  much  heat  you 
have  turned  on. 

There  must  be  ample  screening  so  that  should  a 
garment  fall  it  cannot  possibly  get  scorched. 

The  finish  of  these  dryers  must  be  smooth,  without 
protuberances  which  could  in  any  case  tear  the  gar- 
ments to  be  dried. 

Dryers  are  best  heated  with  gas,  electricity  or  kero- 
sene. Care  must  be  given  to  get  the  best  kerosene 
burner  as  they  are  troublesome  when  not  perfection. 

Dryers  are  simple  to  operate,  and  you  are  saved: 
(1)  tugging  clothes  to  roof  or  yard;  (2)  putting  up  a 
wash-line;  (3)  fastening  clothes  and  tearing  them  with 
clothes-pins;    (4)    carrying    heavy   baskets    anywhere; 

(5)  sprinkling  and  rolling  clothes,  because  you  keep 
them  drying  only  long  enough  to  be  ready  to  iron; 

(6)  the  wear  and  tear  from  the  exposure  to  dust,  sun- 
bum,  fading,  snow  and  other  outdoor  contaminations. 

Electricity  Or  None 

A  very  good  little  dryer,  simple  as  a  broiler,  is  the 
over-head  slatted  dryer,  which,  on  a  pulley,  is  spread 
with  clothes  and  pulled  up  to  the  ceiling  where  the 
clothes  dry  by  the  risen  heat  of  the  room. 

In  a  small  kitchen  where  the  washing  and  cooking  is 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH  39 

done,  it  is  a  real  boon,  and  in  the  laundry,  too,  it  is 
a  genuine  convenience. 

The  rack  is  about  32"  to  64",  and  on  the  ceiling  it  is 
comfortable  and  useful  and  out  of  the  way.  It  comes  in 
two  sizes. 

Your  clothes  go  directly  from  the  wringer  to  the  rack 
as  in  the  big  dryers,  you  obviate  unnecessary  hand- 
ling, clothes-pin  destruction,  etc. 

It  can  be  pulled  down  to  your  own  level  and  hitched 
on  a  waU  pin  so  as  to  make  it  reliably  firm  while  you 
load  it. 

Tables  and  Shelves 

Shelves  in  a  laundry  are  very  much  more  useful 
that  a  quarter  of  a  dozen  tables  or  to  buy  two  or  three 
tables  for  laundries  and  abandon  them  for  needed  foot 
room,  yet  long  for  some  room  to  put  things  on. 

The  steel  unit  of  shelves  is  a  very  convenient  way 
out.  By  using  a  continuous  running  shelf,  like  an 
amplified  plate  rail,  any  place  in  the  laundry  can  be 
a  handy  one  for  placing  a  bit  of  soap,  a  clothes-pin, 
washing  powder,  clothing  waiting  for  starching,  or  any 
other  thing.     Steps  could  be  saved  and  wit  conserved. 

Tables  are  a  necessity,  especially  the  large  7'  table 
or  smaller.  The  wooden  one  for  a  laundry  is  quite 
useful  and  so  also  is  the  all-metal  table.  But  too 
many  tables  spoil  the  temper,  and  the  shelf  is  a  com- 
fort. 

They  should  be  from  31  to  38  inches  high,  if  possible 
adjustable.  The  tops  are  most  satisfactory  in  a  non- 
porous  porcelain  or  porcelain  enamel.  Some  people 
like  hard  wood  or  metal. 


40  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


Ironing  Boards 

There  are  many  varieties  of  ironing'  boards  on  the 
market.  Some  fold  back  against  the  wall  and  some  do 
not.  Some  fold  back  in  self  closets  against  the  wall. 
Some  are  adjustable  to  different  heights,  others  are  not. 
They  come  in  various  sizes  and  finishes  and  do  away 
with  the  falling  and  slipping  ironing  board  which  has 
caused  so  many  useless  bums. 

In  large  houses  the  valets  have  tables  such  as  you  can 
purchase  with  sleeve  boards,  swinging  bodyguard, 
supply  cabinet  for  cleaning  fluids  and  brushes,  and  with 
electric  iron  equipment,  snap  switches  and  automatic 
signal  pilot  lamps  for  each  iron.  These  tables  are  made 
of  seasoned  pine  painted  white.  Legs,  underbody,  cabi- 
net, brackets  and  cord  supporters  are  in  silver  bronze 
paint.  The  boards  are  covered  with  the  best  quality 
felt.  Unbleached  muslin  makes  a  good  covering  for  any 
ironing  board  and  is  generally  used. 

The  ironing  board  is  indispensable  for  fancy  things, 
even  when  the  ironing  machine  is  regularly  used. 

A  Burning  Shame 

When  un-electric  irons  are  used,  there  should  be  an 
ample  supply  of  iron  holders.  If  your  irons  are  not  of 
the  removable  insulated  handle  type,  iron  holders  of 
ticking  or  soft  bits  of  carpet  can  be  used.  This  sounds 
very  elementary,  but  many  scorchings  would  not  have 
taken  place  had  the  laundress  not  rushed  to  get  through 
to  save  the  hurting  hand. 

This  is  truly  a  burning  shame  if  anything  could  so 
be  called.  It  is  possible,  too,  to  get  a  thin  bit  of  asbestos 
encased  in  a  bit  of  ticking  and  so  protect  the  laundress 
from  discomfort  and  your  clothing  from  destruction. 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH  41 

These  iron  holders  could  be  made  by  the  children  of 
the  house  who  are  always  looking  for  something  that 
they  can  make  to  give  to  Mother,  Auntie  or  Grandma. 

The  Laundry  Chute 

Much  time  could  be  saved  in  the  laundry  if  whenever 
it  were  possible  a  chute  could  be  built  into  which  clothes 
can  be  thrown  and  go  directly  to  the  laundry  where  is 
situated  a  basket  or  a  terminal  closet  to  receive  them. 
Here  stuffing  the  dumb  waiter  is  obviated,  also  carrying 
the  clothes  in  baskets  down  the  lift  or  just  using  the 
ugly  clothes  hamper  in  dressing  room  or  bath  room. 
Here  is  a  more  or  less  suggestive  plan  of  arrangement. 

Arrangement 

Assuring     less    expenditure    in    labor    and    money. 

1.  Soiled  linen  chute  in  one  corner  of  the  room. 

2.  A  table  near  to  sort  laundry  before  washing. 

3.  Tubs  in  center  of  the  room  to  be  accessible. 

4.  After  clothes  are  washed  and  blued  they  can  be 
partially  dried  in  dryer  and  ironed. 

5.  Then  a  table  on  which  to  place  clothes  to  be  ironed. 

6.  Ironer  next  in  the  best  light  possible  and  arranged 
away  from  wall  to  permit  two  people  working  at 
it,  if  necessary. 

7.  Skirt  and  sleeve  board  next. 

8.  After  which  another  skirt  and  sleeve  board  or  a 
valet  table  or  another  plain  table. 

Some  people  keep  a  sewing  table  in  the  laundry 
but  it  is  easier  to  have  the  sewing  done  in  the  sewing 
room  and  away  from  the  laundry  work.  Because  the 
different  maids  might  much  better  stay  in  their  own 
territory  and  failing  maids  its  easier  to  keep  your 
threads  any  place  but  in  a  laundry. 


42  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


Fij.^t  Irons 

Because  there  are  some  dainty  things  that  cannot 
be  put  through  a  machine,  electric  flatirons  are  ab- 
solutely indispensable  in  a  laundry.  For  that  reason 
there  are  many  kinds  on  the  market.  They  are  usually 
made  from  2i/2  lbs.  to  15  lbs.  Most  have  but  one  heat, 
but  some  have  three  heats.  A  traveler  will  be  pleased 
with  the  adjustable  3  lb.  iron  which  has  a  voltage 
adjustment  making  it  practical  with  220  or  110  vol- 
tage. 

Soaps  And  Powders 

With  the  best  washing  machines  you  get  bad  results 
if  you  do  not  use  good  soaps  or  cleaning  powders. 

There  is  a  very  good  powder  on  the  market  which 
not  only  cleans  the  clothes  well,  and  leaves  no  greasy 
residue,  but  is  really  not  a  soap  at  all.  It  combines 
rapidly  with  water,  and  makes  a  fine  suds  and  cleans 
very  rapidly. 

For  the  most  part  to-day,  yellow  soaps  and  white  soaps 
as  cleaners  are  on  a  par  but  are  not  as  good  for  laundry 
purposes,  since  the  resin  in  the  yellow  soap  combines 
unhappily  with  your  clothes. 

White  soaps  are  best,  if  you  want  good  results. 

Another  delightful  new  thing  on  the  market  is  the 
starch  which  does  not  starch  but  which  imparts  a  gloss 
and  resistance  without  a  stiffness.  This  will  come  as 
a  boon  to  many  women  who  do  not  want  their  lingeries 
stiff  but  do  want  it  to  look  as  a  starched  bit  of  linen  does. 
In  the  same  way  as  starch  this  composition  permits  the 
lingerie  to  stand  up  longer  under  use. 

The  foregoing  is  just  a  group  of  ideas  in  concrete 
form  to  add  to  the  comfort  of  laundry  days.     They  can 


ELECTROCUTING  THE  WASH  43 

be  passed  on   to  friends  as  ideas,   even  ideals,  or  as 
practical,  concrete  gifts. 

All  three  or  any  would  be  acceptable  to  the  thinking 
housekeeper  who  wants  one  hundred  and  one  things 
done  better  than  a  man  can  do  one  thing  well.  So  all 
aids  in  the  home  are  worth  not  only  considering  but 
investigating  with  eye  and  ear  as  well  as  heart  and  soul. 

To  Avoid  Blow-Outs 

Perhaps  more  money  is  wasted  on  blow-outs  in  homes 
that  utilize  electricity  than  any  other  cause.  If  you 
follow  the  rules,  illustrated  here  and  first  published  by 
the  Edison  Company,  not  only  will  you  save  expense 
in  the  home,  but  you  will  save  the  Fire  Department, 
which  is  constantly  called  upon  to  save  lives  and  prop- 
erty because  of  unnecessary  fires  due  to  carelessness 
(Not  to  electricity)   in  handling  flat  irons. 

The  cardinal  principle  for  the  use  of  all  electrical 
appliances  is  this:  When  you  are  not  continuously 
using  any  device,  shut  off  the  current.  To  do  this, 
entirely  disconnect  the  flatiron,  curling  iron  or  what- 
ever the  device  may  be,  by  pulling  out  the  plug.  Do 
not  be  content  with  turning  off  the  current  at  the  lamp 
socket.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  current  be 
completely  cut  off  when  the  iron  is  not  in  constant  use. 
Sometimes  the  current  has  been  inadvertently  turned 
on  when  the  flatiron  has  been  left  connected  at  the 
lamp  socket,  and  material  has  been  badly  scorched  or 
even  more  serious  damage  has  resulted.  An  electric 
coil  for  heating  water  has  caused  fire  when  carelessly 
left  near  inflammable  material.  In  like  manner  a  con- 
nected curling  iron  when  heedlessly  placed  on  a  bureau 
scarf  has  also  caused  damage.  Remember  the  invari- 
able rule  for  the  use  of  all  electrical  appliances — pull 
out  the  plug  to  disconnect  when  not  using. 


44  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

L'  Envoie 

Go  to  the  best  dealer. 

Buy  the  best  only;  it  reduces  later  costs. 

Simplicity,  safety  and  serviceability  necessary. 

Avoid  machinery  with  extra  parts  to  be  cleaned  or 
upon  which  injury  to  attendant  or  clothes  can  be  per- 
petrated. 

Don't  buy  until  you  are  perfectly  sure  by  numerous 
comparisons  and  other  experience  what  are  the  best 
types  of  machinery  to  install.  Be  sure  to  apply  the 
three  S  tests:  Service,  Safety,  Simplicity. 


CHAPTER  IV 

THE  PORTABLE  VACUUM  CLEANER 

**THAVE  seen  ten  vacuum  cleaners  at  the  Electrical 

X  Show  and  every  one,  according  to  the  salesman, 
is  the  best  on  the  market!  I  want  one,  but  which 
one  shall  I  buy?    It's  most  confusing!" 

This  was  said  to  me  no  less  than  ten  times. 

The  answer  is:  that  you  must  find  out  in  the  same 
way  as  you  found  out  about  your  motor  car  before  buy- 
ing it.  You  didn't  buy  your  car  because  a  salesman 
said  it  was  a  good  car  and  because  he  made  you  sign  a 
slip  and  because  he  promised  you,  as  he  departed,  a 
quick  delivery. 

No,  indeed,  you  tried  out  the  car  first  or  last  and  you 
asked  your  friends,  who  had  purchased  the  same  make, 
how  they  liked  it  and  you  talked  a  lot  about  cost  of  up- 
keep, efficiency,  wear  and  economy  and  the  service  pos- 
sible to  be  had  from  the  makers.  Didn't  you?  Well, 
the  same  process  is  necessary  in  buying  a  vacuum  cleaner 
or  any  other  piece  of  machinery  for  the  house  and 
every  Domiologist  knows  this  to  be  a  fact. 

"All  Is  Not  Gold,  Etc." 

All  vacuum  cleaners  look  charming  and  shiny  and 
all  seem  very  perfect  in  the  shop!  And  they  all  do 
their  stunts  beautifully  as  the  skilled  operator  thrill- 
ingly  draws  designs  in  the  flour  or  bi-carbonate  (clean, 
unclinging  dirt)  on  the  patient  carpet.    The  operator 

45 


46  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

talks  glibly,  often  failing  to  give  the  failings  of  his 
machine  because  he  doesn't  know  them.  So  the  only 
thing  to  do  is  to  ti^y  it,  in  your  own  home,  under  your 
own  special  conditions,  and  see  that  it  gets  under  your 
furniture,  removes  threads,  lint,  hair,  dust,  matches  and 
other  substances  with  the  least  possible  noise  (for  noise 
wears  on  the  operator's  nerves  and  raises  a  dislike  for 
the  cleaner)   and  the  lea.st  possible  effort. 

It  must  be  light  weight,  easy  to  operate  and  economi- 
cal and  durable.  There  is  nothing  so  hard  to  remove 
as  "natural  born  dust."  It  becomes  imbedded  in  the 
carpet  and  it  takes  force  to  remove  it  and  the  sort  of 
force  that  will  not  destroy. 

Taking  up  the  differences  in  the  various  machines, 
it  is  the  better  part  of  valor  to  know  what  the  nature 
of  our  prey  is  before  we  start  to  hunt !  So  we  will 
examine  the  animal  dust  in  its  hunting-grounds. 

Dust's  Hunting  Grounds 

In  your  home  you  have  on  the  floor  woolen  or  grass 
fabrics;  rugs  large  and  small,  and  carpets,  grass  rugs 
and  mattings.  The  carpets  or  rugs  may  have  a  long 
nap  loosely  woven  (Chinese)  Axminster,  Wilton,  Velvet 
Chenille  or  the  pile  in  loops  (Brussels)  or  just  woven 
threads  such  as  ingrain  without  any  nap  or  pile.  Grass 
rugs  (Crex,  etc.)  and  matting  are  of  this  kind. 

It  is  easily  understood  that,  as  the  carpet  or  flooring 
is  walked  on,  the  dust  becomes  deeply  imbedded  and 
gets  tangled  up  in  the  fibres,  and  that  surface  sweeping 
never  can  take  out  the  dust  and  you  have  to  send  car- 
pets each  year  to  the  cleaners  to  restore  their  color, 
etc. 

Above  the  floors  are,  of  course,  the  hangings,  mat- 
tresses,  books,   pictures,   moldings,   ceilings  and   walls. 


THE  PORTABLE  VACUUM  CLEANER   47 

As  to  the  dust  and  the  litter,  such  as  matches,  hair,  lint, 
collects,  85% -90%  of  it  gathers  on  the  floor,  and 
10%-15%  in  the  rest  of  the  room.  Therefore  the  clean- 
ing is  reduced  on  the  upper  regions  if  the  floor  is  kept 
really  clean. 

Of  all  dirt  considering  the  surface  dust  not  walked 
on  that  blows  in  on  clothing,  etc.,  litter,  threads,  hair, 
lint,  and  pieces  of  paper,  imbedded  dirt,  grit  tracked 
in  and  entangling  itself  in  the  carpet,  the  worst  of  these, 
of  course,  is  the  hair  and  lint  and  grit.  These  are  hard 
to  remove  but  they  must  be  taken  out,  especially  the 
grit,  which  is  the  destructive  agent  in  dirt.  In  the 
Oriental  regions,  where  the  street  shoes  are  left  on  the 
door-step,  the  vacuum  cleaner  might  seem  useless. 

The  carpet  doesn't  wear  out  so  much  from  the  top  as 
it  does  by  being  cut  from  the  roots  by  the  stamping  in 
of  the  cutting  grit.  Therefore,  the  vacuum  cleaner  has 
been  invented  to  save  the  carpet,  and  not  only  to  destroy 
the  carpet  destroying  factors,  but  to  annihilate  the  mi- 
crobe drawn  into  the  house  from  the  street  on  your 
offending  shoes. 

We  Are  Three  Kinds! 

And  so  ...  to  have  the  cleaner  that  really  functions, 
every  machine  must  be  constructed  so  that  it  can  be 
easily  taken  apart  and  adjusted,  and  in  order  to  know 
how  to  know  whether  the  machine  is  useful,  the  following 
resume  of  the  kind  of  cleaners  may  be  of  service.  These 
will  be  treated  in  functioning  classes  rather  than  in 
technical  terminologies. 

The  portable  cleaner  (we  will  not  discuss  the  installed 
types)  are  divisible  into  three  classes: 

1.  Using  air  only  as  a  cleaning  agent 

2.  Using  air  plus  a  brush 

3.  Using  air  plus  beating  and  sweeping  brush 


48  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

First:  In  this  class  are  the  tank  machines  having 
vacuum  pumps  as  well  as  fans,  single  or  multiple  (many- 
fans  mounted  on  the  motor  shaft)  and  the  sm^I  fan 
portables. 

All  these  machines  are  on  the  same  principle,  having 
the  motor,  fans  or  pumps  for  moving  the  air,  a  dust  bag 
to  collect  the  dirt,  and  the  hose  in  the  tank  machines' 
case  and  the  extra  tools. 

In  the  small  portable  machines,  which  we  are  consider- 
ing, the  narrow  slatted  tool  attached  directly  to  the 
motor  and  the  fan  case  is  the  medium  through  which 
the  dust  from  the  floor  is  taken  up  and  the  hose,  as  in 
the  t£ink  type  of  cleaner,  is  eliminated  for  floor  work 
and  is  only  used  for  altitude  cleaning.  So  the  only 
difference  in  these  types — the  tank  and  the  slatted 
portables — is  that  the  tool  for  the  floor  work  is  directly 
on  the  motor  case,  in  the  slatted  or  fan  portables,  and 
on  the  end  of  the  hose  in  the  tank  types.  In  some 
machines  the  dust  bag  is  before  the  fan,  in  some  behind 
it,  in  some  the  bag  is  enclosed  (there  are  hardly  any  on 
the  market  now)  and  in  others  it  is  hung  on  the  handle. 
[Wherever  the  bag  is,  it  must  be  so  made  that  it  does 
not  slip  from  its  mooring  and  spill.]  The  principle, 
however,  is  the  same  in  each  case :  drawing  air  through 
the  tool  which  slides  easily  over  the  carpet,  plus  the 
velocity  of  the  air  as  the  instrument  upon  which  the 
cleaning  is  dependent.  Upon  the  rapidity  and  frequency 
of  the  passing  of  this  machine  over  the  carpet  depends 
the  thoroughness  of  the  cleaning  operation. 

"When  the  carrier  wheels  are  on  either  side  of  the 
nozzle  or  just  back  of  it,  keeping  the  nozzle  slightly 
above  the  carpet,  the  operator,  if  skilful,  can  do  a 
good  job. 

Second:  Using  air  plus  a  brush:  The  brushes  are 
used   as  follows: — (1)     Straight   bristle   brush    (looks 


THE  PORTABLE  VACUUM  CLEANER   49 

like  a  comb  of  bristles)  attached  inside  or  outside  of 
nozzle,  projecting  slightly  below  it  so  that  it  will  comb 
the  carpet.  (2)  Spirally  wound  bristle  brush  fitted 
inside  the  nozzle  opening  and  operated  by  the  carrier 
wheels,  either  with  a  belt  or  gears.  This  brush  moves 
in  the  opposite  direction  to  that  in  which  the  cleaner 
is  pushed,  and  takes  up  the  lint  and  hair,  etc. 

As  To  Motive  Power 

Motor  driven  brushes  are  driven  by  a  belt  attached 
to  the  motor.  It  is  continually  in  action  when  the  mo- 
tor is  running  except,  of  course,  when  the  brush  is  re- 
moved for  any  reason.  The  surface  is  continuously 
swept  as  the  air  passes  through  the  nozzle,  and  there  is, 
of  course,  more  power  in  the  motor  driven  brush.  But 
its  enemies  in  the  friction  brush  camp  aver  strongly 
that  the  brush  is  prone  by  its  velocity  to  wear  the  car- 
pet !  These  brushes  generally  have  two  rows  of  spirally 
wound  bristle,  and  in  this  type  you  get  away  from  the 
old-time  carpet  sweeper  where  lint  and  threads  adhere 
for  a  long  time  to  the  bristles  and  often  return  again 
to  the  carpet. 

Third:  Using  air  with  beating  and  sweeping. 
These  sweepers  have  a  large  brush  in  a  large  nozzle  and 
the  brushes  are  spirally  wound  in  two  rows  with  a 
simple  belt  connection  to  the  motor.  These  machines 
are  generally  adjusted  so  that  the  nozzle  is  about  i/4" 
above  the  carpet.  The  bristles  extend  enough  below 
the  nozzle  so  that  the  bristles  push  away  the  carpet  as 
the  air  draws  it  up.  This  gives  the  shaking  motion 
at  the  same  time  the  bristles,  coming  down  at  an  angle 
on  the  carpet,  beat  it  and  passing  through  the  nap 
comb  and  sweep  it  automatically.  The  bristles  comb 
the  nap  and  the  air,  passing  through,  cleans  the  carpet 
and  the  imbedded  dirt  is  loosened  by  the  shaking.    The 


50  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

surface  litter  and  hair  is  swept  up  and  it  cleans  effi- 
ciently by  applying  all  the  laws  of  cleaning  at  the  same 
time. 

Of  course,  with  the  cleaner  come  tools  for  altitude 
cleaning,  for  blowing  out  dust  from  books,  moldings, 
upholstery  tuftings,  etc.,  etc.  The  extra  tools  are  ab- 
solutely necessary  and  it  is  well  to  remember  that  the 
price  is  generally  given  you  without  the  extra  $7  to  $10 
being  added.  Tools  are  made  of  aluminum  steel  and 
fibre,  which  means  that  they  are  durable  and  will  with- 
stand much  wear  and  tear. 

If  you  should  own  the  best  vacuum  cleaner  in  the 
world  and  take  no  care  of  it,  it  would  be  as  if  you  had 
none.  Every  bit  of  machinery  that  was  ever  or  will 
ever  be  made  needs  care.  Any  mechanism  "acts  up" 
if  neglected.  It  is  true,  that  the  vacuum  cleaner  needs 
very  little  care,  probably  oiling  once  a  month  and  the 
removal  of  the  dust  after  every  cleaning  operation. 
The  oiling  is  easy  to  understand,  but  the  reason  for  re- 
moving the  dust  after  every  operation  is:  that,  if  the 
dust  bags  clog  up,  the  egress  of  the  air  is  impeded,  and 
therefore  the  action  of  the  motor  is  impeded,  and  the 
fan's  speed  is  diminished,  causing  a  decrease  in  velocity 
and  air  supply  which  is  what  makes  the  cleaner  more  use- 
ful than  a  broom. 

Do  not  be  fooled  by  big  talk  and  glib  printed  matter 
about  high  vacuum  power,  and  long  air  and  water 
columns.  What  is  needed  for  a  good  cleaner  is  air  dis- 
placement at  a  sufficiently  concentrated  point  or  surface 
to  maintain  a  high  air  velocity.  A  vacuum  cleaner 
might  show  in  a  technical  test  a  tremendous  vacuum 
and  when  used  on  the  carpet  the  nozzle  be  so  constructed 
as  to  mitigate  the  power  of  the  suction  so  created  and, 
therefore,  be  ineffectual  as  a  cleaner.  Therefore,  the 
salesman    can    talk    gliblv    to    the    uninformed    about 


THE  PORTABLE  VACUUM  CLEANER   51 

vacuums  and  tests  and  never  say  "but  our  nozzle  is  so 
large  or  so  high  or  so  low  that  the  air  intake  is  bad." 
Too  much  vacuum  often  makes  the  machine  heavy  by 
sucking  too  heavily  upon  the  carpets.  Of  course,  rais- 
ing the  nozzle  here  will  help  this  fault. 

Motors  ! 

Another  battling  point  is  the  question  of  whether 
the  motor  put  in  horizontally  into  the  casting  or  that 
which  is  put  in  vertically  is  the  better.  They  all  talk 
glibly  on  this  subject,  but  heed  it  not.  All  that  is 
necessary  for  the  purchaser  of  a  cleaner  to  know  about 
the  motor  is  that  it  should  be  made  by  a  reputable 
firm,  have  a  good  speed  that  is  spectacular  and  that 
it  be  not  imbedded  too  deeply  in  unnecessary  fixings  to 
be  oiled  and  cleaned. 

The  universal  motor  is  best  for  the  average  purchaser 
as  it  works  well  on  indirect  or  direct  current,  which- 
ever is  supplied  to  you  in  your  neighborhood.  Nearly 
every  cleaner  employs  a  universal  motor. 

Eveiy  vacuum  cleaner  manufacturer  has  some  point 
of  his  own  that  makes  him  the  most  delightful  of  talkers. 
Here  are  some  very  useful  devices  which  are  worthy  of 
mention,  but  for  the  most  part  are  matters  for  in- 
dividual choice: 

The  enclosed  dust  bag. 

Steel  motor  case. 

Nickled  steel  motor  case. 

Aluminum  motor  case. 

Wheel  bearings  inside  the  nozzle. 

Wheel  bearings  outside  the  nozzle. 

Detachable  nozzle. 

Air  cooled  motor  (most  motors  are  cooled  by  in  and 
outgoing  air). 


52  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Dust  bag  on  top  of  the  handle  shaft. 

Adjustment  with  nut  for  stair  cleaning. 

Self  adjustment  to  keep  handle  erect  when  released 

from  holding  (very  convenient). 
Automatic  current  cut  off. 

Extra  roomy  hooks  for  electric  cord  on  the  handle. 
Oil   cups  protected  from  dust    (should  be  always). 
And  general  attachments  made  as  simple  as  possible. 
Dust  bag  lined  and  sometimes  partitioned. 
Dust  bag  easy  to  put  on  and  take  off  with  a  collar 

to  hold  between  the  soles  of  shoes  to  empty  without 

making  dust  escape. 
Automatic  closing  valve  where  dust  bag  collar  comes 

off — to  prevent  dust  flying  back  into  motor  casing. 
Rubber  bumper  to  protect  furniture. 

Requisite  Qualities 

In  short,  the  satisfactory  cleaner  must: 

1.  Sweep  loose  the  adhering  dirt  such  as  thread,  lint, 
dust  particle,  and  brush  up  matted  nap  or  pile  to  restore 
color  tone. 

2.  Loosen  and  shake  to  the  surface  ground-in  dirt 
that  kills  rugs  and  carpets,  so  that  it  can  be  removed. 

3.  Have  suction  enough  to  carry  away  all  dirt  after 
the  soft  hair  brush  loosens  it  to  make  it  possible. 

This  is  about  the  whole  story.  And  as  to  the  expense 
of  operation,  they  cost  not  even  as  much  as  an  electric 
iron,  and  far  less  than  the  cost  of  extra  cleaning  folk 
to-day.  Cleaning  becomes  interesting  and  the  household 
without  a  maid  or  with  one,  saves  time  and  money.  The 
rugs  can  be  cleaned  at  home  and  stored  at  home  in  the 
summer.  Here  you  save  summer 's  many  costs !  Clean- 
ing becomes  almost  a  pleasure,  at  least  a  pleasanter  per- 
formance, not  a  bug-bear — or  in  this  case  we  might  say 
— a  rug-bear!    It  is  an  economy,  a  comfort  and  a  gold 


THE  PORTABLE  VACUUM  CLEANER   53 

lined  investment  in  which  the  interest  is  health,  money 
saved,  and  fabrics  preserved.  Could  you  ask  for  more 
in  a  sweeper? 

But  don 't  expect  miracles.    The  vacuum  cleaner  needs 
slight  pushing  over  the  floor— it  can't  roll  by  itself. 


CHAPTER    V 

A   PIPE   DREAM 

AS  soon  as  you  get  accustomed  to  the  intricacies 
of  one  method  of  doing  anything  to-da|y,  something 
new  crops  up.  This  is  probably  more  true  in  the  realm 
of  housekeeping  than  in  any  other  except  that  of  mili- 
tarj'^  science.  You  have  no  sooner  mastered  the  points 
of  what  not  to  do  and  what  you  should  do  with  portable 
vacuum  cleaners  than  up  comes  the  stationary  vacuum 
cleaner  and  you  have  to  know  about  it,  too.  And  so  this 
article  after  one  on  the  portable  cleaner.  If  you  forget 
the  technicalities  see  Chapter  IV. 

To  refresh  your  memory,  every  vacuum  cleaner  has 
five  elements: 

1.  Air  producer  (vacuum  is  a  misnomer)  :  the  pump 
or  fan  series  employed  to  create  the  air  current. 

2.  Dust  collector:  bag,  box,  pail,  etc. 

3.  Dust  conduit :  piping. 

4.  Cleaning  tool :  brush,  felt,  etc.,  etc. 

5.  Human  direction :  the  hand  that  steers. 

The  portable  type  of  cleaner  has  the  first  four  parts 
mounted  on  one  unit,  so  that  the  whole  machine  is  moved 
in  its  chase  for  the  enemy  Dust.  Besides  this  the  elec- 
tric wire  must  be  applied  to  an  electric  connection  in 
a  baseboard  or  electric  fixture. 

In  the  case  of  the  stationary  cleaner,  the  mechanism 
is  larger  and  the  air  producer  and  dust  collector  are 
in  the  cellar  or  basement,  and  the  dust  conduit  impar- 
tially spreads  itself  throughout  the  house  through  walls 

and  ceilings  and  politelv  connects  at  convenient  inter- 

54 


Courtesy  of  American  Radiator  Co. 


LOOKING    FOR    THE    DUST    WHICH    WAS    SUCKED    DOWN    FROM 
ABOVE   stairs! 


A  PIPE  DREAM  57 

vals  with  the  cleaning  tool,  via  the  agency  of  the  vents 
in  baseboards.  With  this  cleaner  the  only  thing  that  is 
manipulated  by  the  worker  is  the  cleaning  tool  which 
"bites  the  dust." 

Pros  and  Cons 

But  why  should  you  have  the  installed  cleaner? 
Why  not  have  the  portable?  The  fact  is  that  neither 
of  these  cleaners  is  in  competition  very  directly.  But 
let  us  quote  an  expert  who  has  given  most  of  his  time 
to  the  subject  of  air  cleaning : 

"There  is  unquestionably  a  legitimate  field  for  both 
types  of  cleaners,  but  the  stationary  type  more  nearly 
reaches  the  ideal."  The  next  statement  of  his  will  ex- 
plain that:  "If  we  observe  the  action  of  the  wind  in 
an  open  field,  we  find  that  a  gentle  breeze  will  move 
light  material.  ...  If  the  breeze  changes  to  a  hurri- 
cane, we  find  that  the  moving  air  has  the  power  ...  to 
move  anything  in  its  path,  including  fences,  trees, 
houses,  etc." 

Therefore  in  considering  purchasing  a  cleaner  you 
must  ask  yourself  first:  "Do  I  want  a  gentle  breeze 
or  a  little  hurricane  in  miy  home?  That's  the  first  and 
foremost  question !  Is  my  home  large  enough  to  afford 
the  much  more  expensive  plant  which  makes  the  hurri- 
cane, at  a  higher  running  cost ;  or  isn  't  the  portable 
just  the  thing  I  need  because  of  its  various  adaptabili- 
ties and  small  running  and  installation  costs? 

It  has  been  held  against  the  installed  vacuum  cleaner 
that  it  is — 

1.  Expensive. 

2.  Unusual  skill  must  be  employed  in  installation. 

3.  Suction  is  altered  by  length  of  pipe. 

4.  Cost  of  operation  is  high. 

5.  Wear  and  tear  on  the  house  too  great. 


58  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

6.    It  must  be  installed  when  the  house  is  built. 

Of  course  the  stationary  type  is  more  expensive  than 
the  portables,  because  of  the  larger  machine,  the  in- 
definitely long  pipe  system  and  the  larger  motor.  The 
motor  has  from  six  to  twelve  times  and  upwards  the 
horsepower  of  the  portable  machine.  It  is,  therefore, 
more  costly  to  run  because  it  eats  up  more  electricity, 
but  it  can  do  heavier  work  and  quicker. 

Great  skill  must  be  employed  in  the  installation  of 
all  machinery.  Not  long  ago  mistakes  were  made  when 
putting  in  the  air  system,  but  now  engineers  know  this 
department  of  work  as  well  as  they  know  gas  and  elec- 
tric installations,  and  with  the  length  of  hose  used  there 
is  no  lessening  of  suction  because  of  the  construction 
of  the  entire  pipeage. 

The  objection  that  with  this  apparatus  there  is  tre- 
mendous wear  and  tear  because  the  hose  is  taken 
through  the  doorway  from  the  hall  so  that  the  door 
must  needs  be  scratched  when  it  closes  on  the  hose 
as  it  is  dragged  through,  may  be  nullified  by  installing 
double  end  hose  connections  in  the  wall  near  the  door 
so  that  one  line  of  hose  will  connect  from  the  valve  to 
the  connection  in  the  hall  and  another  shorter  piece  of 
hose  used  inside  of  the  room. 

There  is  no  trouble  at  all  about  installing  the  station- 
ary vacuum  cleaner  after  the  building  is  erected,  but 
naturally  it  is  less  expensive  to  put  it  in  during  the 
building  and  when  planned  for  ahead  than  it  is  to 
put  pipes  through  a  house  after  it  is  built. 

Operation 

With  the  stationary  type  cleaner  you  have  no  machine 
to  move  about — you  simply  move  the  tool  attached  to  the 
hose  and  the  tools  are  just  as  light  as  those  of  the  port- 
able machines,     There  is  no  electric  connection  to  make, 


A  PIPE  DREAM  59 

no  electric  wire  to  carry  unconsciously  along.  All 
there  is  to  be  done  by  the  worker  is  to  slip  the  end  of 
the  cleaner  hose  into  the  suction  pipe  opening  in  the 
baseboard  of  the  room.  A  patented  device  prevents  the 
hose  from  becoming  detached  accidentally. 

The  usual  tools  come  with  the  installed  cleaner,  such  as 
handle,  blower,  felted  sweeper,  book  cleaner,  duster,  etc. 
Other  tools  can  be  made  to  order  to  fit  any  particular 
need. 

One  thing  delightfully  obviated  in  the  stationary 
cleaner  is  the  noise.  The  writer  has  what  she  considers 
the  best  portable  cleaner  on  the  market,  yet  the  noise  is 
a  great  drawback.  The  stationary  cleaner  is  there- 
fore a  boon  to  the  sick  room  and  it  is  easy  to  see  why 
the  newer  hospitals  take  as  readily  to  them  as  to  the 
piped  water  system. 

Then,  too,  having  the  baseboard  vent  in  each  area 
in  large  houses,  with  the  consequent  needlessness  of 
carrying  a  cleaner  upstairs  and  down,  over  hill  and 
dale,  is  a  selling  point  for  the  piped  cleaner.  Also  the 
swiftness  of  the  cleaning,  due  of  course  to  the  tre- 
mendous air  velocity — a  canned  hurricane.  However, 
in  the  small  residence  the  greater  cost  would  be  un- 
warranted because  of  the  great  efficiency  of  the  portable 
machines. 

Where  there  is  a  garage  in  the  family,  and  it  is  piped 
for  cleaning,  the  machinery,  instead  of  being  perma- 
nently installed,  can  be  mounted  on  rollers  and  can  be 
wheeled  and  attached  to  the  pipes  in  that  building. 
Therefore  the  necessity  of  two  machines  is  obviated 
where  the  other  building  is  piped. 

Yet  when  the  buildings  are  widely  separated  it  is  best 
to  have  one  of  the  good  portable  machines  which  are  on 
the  market  in  so  many  designs,  and  are  adapted  to  so 
many  and  varied  uses.     Therefore  you  see  the  portables 


60  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

as  indispensable  and  see  them  filling  fields  that  the  in- 
stalled can  never  hope  to  fill. 

The  fact  that  the  stationary  entails  no  dust-bag  clean- 
ing is  a  time  and  labor-saving  actuality.  Then,  too, 
no  matter  how  good  the  dust  bag  is  on  the  portable 
vacuum  cleaner,  some  of  the  very  fine  dust  must  escape 
through  the  bag  into  the  room.  In  the  stationary  type 
the  cleaner  politely  does  its  exhaling  in  the  cellar.  This 
point  has  been  made  A^aluable  to  chocolate  makers  who 
want  to  save  the  loss  of  chocolate  in  packing  boxes, 
to  manufacturers  who  want  to  obviate  the  retaining 
of  poisonous  dust  among  the  workers,  etc.,  etc. 

In  the  stationary  as  well  as  in  the  portable  vacuum 
cleaners  the  suction  is  caused  by  the  pump  or  fan  type 
machine.  Some  manufacturers  advocate  one,  some  an- 
other. In  picking  your  winner  you  must  go  to  the  best 
manufacturer  of  each  type  and  let  him  give  you  his  tale, 
and  then  see  whether  you  come  out  a  pump  fan  or  a 
fan  fan! 

The  other  intricacies  of  this  simple  machine  need 
not  bother  you.  Go  to  the  best  makers  and  make  them 
responsible  for  your  purchase.  Not  all  of  us  being  en- 
gineers, you  have  to  depend  on  the  reputation  of  the  best 
makers. 

The  stationary  cleaner  can  do  more  work  than  the 
portable,  it  will  last  longer  because  the  machinery  is 
heavier,  yet  there  are  drawbacks  to  it  as  to  all  machinery 
which  is  not  at  all  points  open  to  the  eye.  For  example, 
the  pipes  may  clog.  But  you  must  remember  that  water 
pipes  can  clog  and  that  gas  pipes  do  very  exasperating 
things;  yet  you  use  them  without  blinking. 

For  the  very  large  residence,  factory,  hospital,  hotel 
and  institution,  of  course  the  stationary  machine  is  best, 
mainly  because  it  is  difficult  to  get  help  to-day  to  carry 
about  the  premises  anything  that  is  heavy.     To  lift, 


A  PIPE  DREAM  61 

push  or  carry  the  lightest  portable  over  a  very  large 
residence  or  institution  is  a  trial,  and  the  stationary 
type  overcomes  this  difficulty. 

In  some  cases  the  heavy  duty  portable  is  advised  with 
its  increased  horsepower,  but  when  the  purse  and  area 
of  residence  match,  the  stationary  type  is  really  the 
best,  although  we  know  householders  who  prefer 
to  use  the  portable  and  heavy  duty  portables  every- 
where. 

The  stationary  plant  is  only  another  real  ''pipe 
dream"  come  true,  and  in  addition  to  piped  water, 
piped  gas  and  conduited  electricity  it  will  tend  to  hasten 
the  processes  of  home  maintenance  and  free  the  home- 
keepers  to  do  more  spiritual  home  tending. 

But  remember  that  in  the  average  home  or  apart- 
ment the  portable  machine  is  the  ideal  sweeper  and 
fulfills  more  than  every  requirement  of  sanitary 
sweeping  combined  with  the  least  effort.  The  stationary 
is  for  the  large  house,  not  the  small. 


CHAPTER    VI 

COOKING   BY   ELECTRIC   CURRENT 

THE  electric  stove  is  the  most  dependent  on  geogra- 
phy of  all  your  kitchen  implements.  Because  it 
consumes  a  large  amount  of  electricity,  the  rate  of 
this  as  a  fuel  will  decide  whether  or  not  you  can  use  the 
electricity-consuming  stove.  This  decision,  in  turn,  is 
affected  by  the  rate  of  electricity  for  cooking  in  every 
different  locality  in  the  country. 

The  vogue  of  the  electric  stove  is  due  to  the  conven- 
ience and  sureness  with  which  the  cooking  is  done,  the 
control  which  may  be  exercised  and  the  positiveness  of 
results.  Furthermore,  the  cleanliness,  lack  of  odors 
and  gases,  and  the  easy  installation  and  convenience  of 
placing  are  other  important  reasons  why  the  electric 
stove  has  come  to  stay,  if  electric  companies  co- 
operate with  the  stove  companies  to  give  a  cooking  rate. 

It's  vogue,  too,  is  largely  due  from  the  fact  that  in 
the  maidless  home  housekeepers  find  electricity  simpler, 
cooler  and  cleaner,  if  more  expensive  and  not  quite 
as  rapid  as  gas. 

Points  About  the  Stoves 

As  with  the  gas  and  wood  stove,  the  main  principals 
must  apply  in  picking  them  out,  with  but  few  additions 
and  omissions.  The  electric  stove  is  not  bothered 
with  its  own  deterioration  by  the  combustion  inside 
it  of  oils,  woods,  coals,  cokes,  etc.,  but  has,  of  course,  to 

62 


Courtesy  of  Estate  Stove  Co. 

THREE    LITTLE    FINGERS    FIT    IN    THREE    LITTLE    HOLES    AND 
THE   CONNECTION    IS   MADE 


Courtesy  of  Bramhall  Deane  Co. 

HERE    THE    STOVE    LID    IS   SET   ON    A    LITTLE    ROUND   PLATFORM 

ALREADY   ATTACHED   AND   EASILY  DISENGAGED 

ELECTRIC  RANGE 


COOKING  BY  ELECTRIC  CURRENT         65 

be  well  wired,  rust  protected  and  insulated  against 
mishap  and  fire.  Accidents  are  contingent  on  anything 
that  uses  any  fuel.  With  electric  stoves  it  is  unnecess- 
ary to  have  large  or  small  storage  systems,  which  makes 
electricity  a  convenient  fuel  for  the  small  "rabbit 
hutches, ' '  in  which  the  wealthiest  and  poorest  are  forced 
to  live  in  these  days  of  homelessness. 

Then  again,  if  you  employ  electricity,  whether  it  is 
more  costly  or  not,  you  do  not  have  to  put  in  so  strenu- 
ous a  flue  system  when  building  a  house,  but  just  a  hood 
over  the  stove  as  a  vent  to  carry  off  cooking  odors  and 
a  special  wiring  system.  You  do  away,  too,  with  the 
draughts  necessary  for  coal  or  wood  types  and  all  the 
contingent  engineering  niceties,  which  harass  and 
wear  you  if  they  are  not  perfection. 

The  bod}'  of  the  stove  should  be  built  of  non-rusting 
iron.  Armco  rust-resisting  iron  is  often  used  in  the 
best  grades  of  stoves.  It  is  free  from  impurities  which 
invite  corrosion  and  rust  and  has  proved  a  valuable 
material  out  of  which  to  make  a  good  stove  body.  On 
some  stoves  the  tops  are  made  of  gray  iron  castings 
which,  with  the  black  body  and  its  polished  iron  trim- 
mings, make  a  very  stately  and  harmonious  article  with- 
out sacrificing  anything  of  practical  utility. 

The  top  of  any  stove  is  the  place  upon  which  are 
placed  the  utensils  for  frying,  boiling,  etc.  This  is  true 
whether  the  fuel  be  coal,  gas,  electricity  or  what-not. 

The  top  of  the  electric  stove  is  no  variant  to  this 
rule.  It  has  the  spots  upon  which  to  place  the  utensil 
and  these  spots  are  called  the  heating  units.  Heat,  of 
course,  is  communicated  in  varying  degrees  between 
the  units.  These  units  are  of  cast  or  wrought  iron. 
The  tops  of  any  electric  stove  must  be  of  cast  iron  or  some 
such  non-warping  rigid  material  which  takes  readily 
to  cleaning.     The  heating  element  should  be  safe  from 


66  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

molestations  and  the  top  of  the  stove  must  be  smooth- 
ness itself  to  hold  the  utensils  with  perfect  ease  and 
steadiness.  The  units'  wire  connection  must  be  en- 
closed to  protect  the  heating  element.  The  top  of  the 
usual  electric  stove  has  about  four  cooking  "holes" 
or  plates,  or  heating  elements.  In  some  eases  the  electric 
connection  is  made  by  the  heating  units  being  equipped 
with  pluglike  sets  or  fingers  (as  your  ordinary  lamp 
plug)  and  fitting  into  a  socket  under  itself.  In  other 
cases,  if  it  be  a  three-heat  stove,  the  three  wires  are  di- 
rectly connected  with  the  heating  element  and  all  that 
has  to  be  done  in  case  of  bad  connection  is  to  raise  the 
heating  element  and  unscrew  the  wires.  In  other  styles 
when  bad  connection  occurs  you  must  search  the  surface 
beneath  the  plug,  a  little  more  complicated  operation, 
but  still  the  manufacturers  of  this  feel  that  it  is  an  added 
protection  to  wiring. 

The  surface  units,  too,  must  come  off  easily  so  that 
no  extra  tool  is  needed  to  pick  them  up. 

Ovens  and  Broilers 

There  are  two  kinds  of  ovens  used  in  the  electric 
stove,  from  the  point  of  view  of  heat  retention.  One 
of  them  does  not  retain  the  heat  completely  enough  to 
call  itself  a  fireless  cooker  oven  yet  does  retain  heat 
to  a  great  degree  and  cooks  well  after  a  little  time  on 
the  third  heat  or  low  heat.  The  other  style  guarantees 
a  fireless  system  of  cooking  when  the  electricity  is  cut 
off. 

Strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  largest  and  most  elaborate 
and  the  most  expensive  stoves  are  not  made  with  the 
retention-heat  method  because,  no  doubt,  the  persons 
that  can  pay  about  $1000  or  even  $700  for  a  stove  have 
chefs  and  don't  really  care  whether  they  use  more  or 
less  electricity. 


COOKING  BY  ELECTRIC  CURRENT    67 

For  ordinary  use,  however,  and  for  the  large  stove 
which  costs  to-day  around  $140  to  $225,  it  is  well  to  have 
the  retained-heat  oven,  the  oven  so  insulated  as  to  keep 
in  the  heat  and  keep  out  the  cold,  so  that  you  can 
cook  easily  by  fireless  and  save  much  electricity. 

The  oven  should  be  equipped  with  top  and  floor 
heating  units.  These  should  be  controlled  by  a  three- 
heat  switch  and  so  geared  and  wired  as  to  be  accessible. 
If  one  unit  burns  out  the  others  will  not. 

In  some  stoves  the  heating  unit  in  the  top  of  the  bake 
oven  is  controlled  by  the  same  switch  which  operates 
the  units  in  the  oven  bottom  and  is  of  proper  intensity 
to  insure  good  results. 

Often  this  same  unit  also  serves  the  broiler.  In  other 
cases  the  broiler  is  supplied  by  an  "on  and  off"  switch 
alone  and  it  is  only  made  in  conjunction  with  the 
broiler.  In  still  other  stoves  the  three-heat  broiler  with 
separate  switch  is  employed. 

The  broiler  must  be  heavily  tinned  to  prevent  rust 
and  corrosion  and  it  must  have  a  removable  drip  pan. 
In  one  stove  on  the  market,  which  has  the  broiler  to  the 
left  on  the  top,  the  drip  pan  is  fastened  to  the  broiler 
so  that  when  it  is  drawn  out  over  the  stove  for  any 
reason  the  drippings  are  caught  b|y  the  pan  and  not 
spattered  on  the  stove  top  beneath.  This  is  a  minor 
perfection  but  a  very  nice  one. 

Some  range  companies  make  a  unit  of  a  certain 
size,  say  "24"  or  "48,"  and  if  you  want  a  larger  size 
you  can  simply  say  "I  want  two  units" — or  three,  or 
what  not.  There  are  small  stoves  for  yachts  and  kitch- 
enettes; in  fact,  the  electric  stove  is  as  adaptable  as  a 
telescope,  some  have  ovens  above,  some  have  ovens  be- 
low, some  have  broilers  above,  some  below.  Some  have 
everything  above,  some  everything  below.  You  can 
have   exactly   what  you  want   as  to  price   and  style. 


68  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Some  stoves  are  also  equipped  with  practical  plate  and 
food  warmers. 

One  very  pleasing  stove  is  called  a  period  stove  be- 
cause it  has  legs  that  curve  and  cavort  like  a  period 
bit  of  furnit'ure — what  period  we  couldn't  say  unless 
it  be  early  Edison. 

Then,  too,  there  are  combination  coal  and  electric 
ranges,  for  there  are  those  persons  who  must  have  both — 
and  as  they  are  beautifully  combined  they  make  a  neat 
and  effective  unit  in  the  kitchen. 

There  are  portable  stoves  and  stoves  that  are  built-in ; 
that  is,  the  stove  that  can  be  very  simply  moved  from 
place  to  place  if  necessary,  and  the  one  that  is  backed 
into  the  wall  and  would  leave  a  scar  if  it  were  moved. 
Of  course  the  huge  stoves  are  of  the  built-in  type,  but 
they,  too,  eome  with  legs  and  are  better  adapted  to 
removal. 

Electric  Measurements 

For  these  electric  stoves,  special  wiring  must  be 
effected.  They  cannot  be  attached  to  the  ordinary  elec- 
tric socket.  It  is  necessary  when  ordering  a  stove  to 
give  the  voltage  of  your  electric  supply.  The  stoves 
are  usually  prepared  for  110  volts  with  two-wire  service 
from  street  or  110-220  volts  with  three-wire  service. 
In  some  stoves  the  cut-out  box  is  built  on  the  range 
directly  back  of  the  switches.  This,  then,  can  be  easily 
opened  if  anything  happens.  In  the  stock  stove  an 
extra  charge  is  made  for  voltage  exceeding  220  or  less 
than  110,  because  alterations  have  to  be  made. 

The  consumption  of  watts  in  the  electric  stove  is  a 
very  vital  question.  Watts  are  the  unit  of  electric  power, 
just  as  you  speak  of  50  cubic  feet  of  gas  in  measuring 
gas  consumption.  The  unit  of  figuring  the  cost  is  not 
on  the  watt — because  a  watt  is  too  small  a  figure  out  of 


COOKING  BY  ELECTRIC  CURRENT         69 

the  unit  of  one  thousand  watts,  which  is  the  kilowatt. 
So  you  call  the  unit  of  fuel  consumption  the  kilowatt 
hour  and  you  say  the  average  stove  consumes  about  one 
kilowatt  hour  per  person  per  day.  If  a  burner  con- 
sumes 800  watts  it  means  you  will  be  charged  800/^1000 
of  a  kilowatt  per  hour. 

According  to  the  size  of  heating  elements,  the  wattage 
of  stoves  runs  from  10,000  watts  or  10  kilowatts  (which 
is  the  same  thing)  to  about  2500  w^atts,  or  2V2  kilowatts 
on  a  small  three-heating-unit  range.  This  gives  its 
total  capacity  if  everything  goes  at  once. 

It  is  a  little  more  intelligent  for  the  housewife  to 
read  her  meter  than  not  to.  So  here  is  how  it  is  done : 
There  are  four  little  dials,  which  you  read  from  right 
to  left,  the  opposite  manner  of  reading  this  page.  The 
first  dial  measures  the  tens,  the  second  the  hundreds, 
the  third  the  thousands,  the  fourth  the  ten  thousands. 
Therefore,  the  total  is  found  by  adding  all  the  figures 
at  which  the  dials  point  and  always  reading  the  lowest 
number  which  the  dial  approximates.  But  you  must 
always  substract  your  last  month's  record  from  this, 
of  course,  to  get  this  month's  average;  and  this  amount 
multiplied  by  your  electricity  rate  would  give  you  what 
your  bill  should  be. 

After  all,  the  cost  is  the  paramount  thing  in  your  pur- 
chasing and  calculations  as  to  purchasing.  The  electric 
stove  is,  on  the  whole,  more  expensive  than  the  ordinary 
cook  stove.  The  fuel  cost  varies,  as  has  been  said  before, 
with  the  locality  in  which  you  happen  to  live. 

In  many  places  the  electric  companies  have  made  a 
cooking  rate  much  lower  than  the  lighting  rate.  In 
such  localities  where  the  electricity  is  but  from  IV2  to 
2  cents,  the  electricity  as  fuel  is  almost  equal  in  cost 
to  gas  at  one  dollar.  It  has  been  generally  admitted 
that,  with  care  as  to  fuel  consumption,  a  kilowatt  hour 


70  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

per  day  is  consumed  by  each  individual  in  the  house. 
If  you  have  to  pay  three  cents  per  kilowatt  hour  and 
you  have  six  persons  in  the  house,  your  electricity  will 
cost  you  about  eighteen  cents  per  day.  In  the  large, 
weighty  and  "watty"  stoves  the  consumption  of  elec- 
tricity is  about  2  kilowatt-hours  per  day  per  person, 
but  on  the  stock  ranges  not  weighing  over  300  pounds 
with  a  comparative  low  wattage  (compared  with  the 
1200-pound  made-to-order  range)  the  average  is,  as  was 
said  before,  but  one  kilowatt-hour  per  person  per  day. 
One  firm,  computing  4.2  persons  to  average  a  family, 
states  that  in  the  use  of  26,180  ranges  the  cost  was 
$4.06^/4  per  month  per  family. 

The  value  of  electric  cooking  is  not  in  the  low  cost 
of  fuel  but  in  the  saving  of  labor,  food  conservation, 
cleanliness,  comfort  and  mental  or  pyschological  delight 
in  the  shipshape  and  orderly  method. 

In  cities  where  the  cooking  rate  is  the  same  as  the 
lighting  rate  (around  seven  cents)  cooking  by  electricity 
is  expensive  for  the  average  folk  who  have  to  think  a 
little  about  the  cost  of  living. 

It  has  been  said  that  electric  cooking  is  expensive 
because  it  takes  longer  to  cook  by  it  than  by  gas.  This 
is  being  overcome  in  three  ways:  first,  by  the  proper 
use  of  electricity  and  the  turning  it  off  and  cooking  on 
retained  heat ;  secondly,  by  the  better  made  stove  in 
use  to-day:  thirdly,  by  the  use  of  proper  sized  and 
shaped  utensils  which  are  a  very  great  factor  in  the 
rapidity  of  cooking  and  thence  economy  of  electricity 
as  a  fuel. 

Control  ajstd  Trimmings 

Most  stoves  are  equipped  with  reliable  thermometers 
and  also  many  give  charts  with  the  stove  to  show  you 


COOKING  BY  ELECTRIC  CURRENT    71 

exactly  what  temperatures  on  that  particular  stove  will 
accomplish  the  pop-over,  the  roast,  or  the  what-not. 
This  eliminates  any  basis  of  error.  Some,  too,  have 
glass  ovens  which  further  add  to  the  gaiety  of  rations. 

In  buying,  buy  of  the  best  firms,  get  guarantees,  see 
that  your  wiring  is  adequate  and  that  everything  is 
well  insulated  with  asbestos  or  something  of  equal  value. 

See  to  it  that  your  oven  doors  close  without  slamming ; 
that  when  they  are  open  they  won't  bend  if  a  weight 
is  put  on  them.  We  have  seen  one  stove  stand  the 
weight  of  a  man  jumping  on  the  stove  oven  door  when 
it  was  lowered.  '^lany  a  good  cake  has  been  ruined  by 
banging  oven  doors. 

The  switches  should  be  conveniently  placed  and  not 
off  in  some  corner.  The  fuses  should  be  back-side  or 
back  of  range,  as  they  are  not  particularly  beautiful 
to  gaze  upon  and  one  is  apt  to  take  them  for  switches 
when  rushed.  But  few  stoves  now  put  the  fuses  in  the 
front.  The  fuses  should  be  so  connected  that  if  one 
blows  out  all  do  not. 

There  is  a  stove  on  the  market  at  present  that  has 
a  fireless  cooking  timing  device,  so  that  when  you  go 
to  bed,  you  can  have  your  breakfast  all  cooked  for  you 
(if  you  have  stocked  the  stove  before  retiring)  at  any 
time  in  the  morning  at  which  you  have  set  the  clock. 
This  you  may  consider  a  trimming,  but  it  is  a  nice  bit 
of  modern  life's  embroidery. 

In  most  of  the  stoves  the  fireless  cooking  saves  time 
and  saves  your  food.  Basting  is  unnecessary;  you  get 
what  you  pay  for  in  weight  of  the  roast  and  lose  less 
than  by  any  other  process  of  cooker5\  In  some  stoves 
twelve  or  fifteen  minutes  of  electricity  are  all  that  is 
needed ;  stored  heat  then  does  the  work. 


72  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Dimensions  and  Care 

The  heights  in  stoves  vary  from  a  few  inches  (table 
ranges)  to  about  5'.  Height  to  cooking  top  varies,  too ; 
the  nearest  it  comes  to  38"  the  more  comfortable,  of 
course.  The  new  stoves  are  being  made  with  special 
emphasis  on  the  height  of  cooking  surfaces. 

The  depth  of  stoves  also  varies,  from  the  built-to- 
order  stove  which  is  33''  to  the  stock  stoves  which  run 
even  as  narrow  as  16",  with  but  three  top  cooking  or 
heating  units  instead  of  the  average  four. 

As  with  all  new  devices,  you  must  practise  with  the 
electric  stove  to  get  the  best  results.  The  first  few  weeks 
you  may  think  you  are  using  too  much  current.  You 
will  be,  too,  but  you  will  learn  better  if  you  take  the 
following  into  j^our  mind : 

1.  Do  not  overheat  your  oven.  Never  let  the  tem- 
perature exceed  the  thermometer's  tell-tale  face. 

2.  Oil  your  oven  occasionally  as  you  would  your 
typewriter  or  sewing-machine,  for  some  "non-rust- 
ing" ovens  go  back  on  you. 

3.  Not  only  engineers  but  cooks  often  sleep  at  the 
switch.  But  you  mlistn't.  It  would  be  wise  to  have 
a  master  switch  in  the  kitchen  connecting  the  range 
to  the  electric  supply.  In  this  case  you  can  turn  off 
the  electricity  and  there  will  be  no  danger  of  leaving 
a  burner  turned  on  when  not  needed.  The  heating 
plate  may  crack  if  the  current  is  turned  on  without 
anything  cooking  in  a  utensil  on  top  of  it. 

4.  Don't  remove  burners  unless  repair  is  necessary. 
Boiling  over  of  foods  won't  hurt  the  burners.  Use 
nothing  but  a  light  non-metallic  brush  to  rid  the 
burners  of  spillings.  If  you  use  old  utensils  that  have 
become  rich  in  food  deposits,  thoroughly  scour  be- 


COOKING  BY  ELECTRIC  CURRENT    73 

fore  using  on  the  electric  stove.    The  electric  stove 
makes  no  deposit  on  utensils. 

5.  Turn  down  the  burner  when  water  boils.  You 
have  three  heats.  Turn  from  high  to  low  at  boil. 
Your  bills  will  come  down  75%.  Use  as  little  water 
as  possible  and  by  keeping  the  lids  on  you  will  cook 
by  steam.  Turn  your  switches  to  low  at  every  chance 
you  get.  Ten  or  jfifteen  minutes  before  the  food  is 
cooked  you  can  turn  off  current ;  there  will  be  enough 
heat  to  cook  with  if  your  utensil  is  covered. 

6.  "When  cooking  roasts,  in  about  an  hour,  depend- 
ing on  the  size  of  your  roast,  you  can  turn  off  full 
current  on  the  top  burner  and  cook  on  retained  heat 
or  on  medium  heat  of  bottom  burner. 

7.  For  safety  in  expense  keep  one  burner  on  at 
Full.  Start  your  cookery  of  each  thing  on  Full  and 
then  shift  to  medium  burners.  This  will  save  electric 
bills,  as  you  won't  have  all  your  burners  going  full 
tilt  at  the  same  time. 

8.  Flat  bottom  utensils  at  least  as  large  as  the 
heating  space  are  necessary  to  the  economical  use  of 
the  electric  stove.  Use  as  little  water  as  possible, 
thereby  cooking  by  steam  and  saving  food.  Shallow 
vessels  take  less  heat  and  therefore  less  electricity. 

A  Very  New  Departure 

On  the  market,  as  this  goes  to  press  has  come  the 
electric  stove  which,  instead  of  heating  by  radiant  heat 
(red),  cooks  by  conductivity  or  black  heat.  That  is, 
the  unit  becomes  hot  throughout  and  does  not  burn  by 
becoming  red  hot.  It  is  claimed  in  this  case  that  the 
unit  wears  longer  and  that  it  takes  less  time  to  cook 
therefore  less  electricity.  We  have  not  had  time  to 
test  this  stove  so  cannot  vouch  for  it  except  that  it  is 


74  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

made  by  very  eminent  manufacturers  and  invented  by 
a  very  distinguished  expert. 

It  is  so  built  that  the  cleaning  of  it  and  the  replacing 
of  its  parts  is  done  with  the  minimum  effort. 

All  switches  and  connections  are  at  the  back  of  the 
stove  and  can  therefore  be  kept  inviolate. 

The  top  burner  elements  are  made  of  multiple  low 
temperature  units  from  one  ampere  in  a  single  unit  to 
almost  unlimited  amperage  of  say  25  amperes,  from 
25  single  units  in  parallel  within  a  square  or  diameter 
of  8  or  9  inches.  Think  what  flexibility  of  heat  this 
means!  It  is  just  what  up  to  date  the  electric  stove 
has  lacked  with  its  but  one  to  three  "heats."  If  one 
or  more  units  bum  out  then  there  are  others  left! 

The  stove  is  so  geared  that  a  fluctuation  of  25  volts 
will  make  no  trouble! 

The  oven  arrangement  and  unit  system  is  so  arranged 
as  to  bake  quicker  and  adjustable  to  different  size  pans. 

Ideal  broiling  is  a  thing  quite  boasted  of  in  this  stove. 

All  the  units  and  parts  are  easily  removable  for  clean- 
ing so  you  will  get  a  prize  if  all  the  things  they  say 
of  their  stove  are  true  and  we  have  little  doubt  that 
they  are  true. 


CHAPTER  VII 

TAKING  GUESSWORK  OUT  OF  GAS  COOKERY 

THE  points  in  buying  a  gas  range  are  for  the  most 
part  the  same  as  in  purchasing  an  electric  range. 
It  must  be  of  the  best  material,  cast  iron  or  sheet  iron 
or  a  combination  of  the  two,  the  ovens  usually  lined 
with  steel,  upon  which  is  baked  aluminum  or  a  vitreous 
enamel.  Enamels  are  more  expensive  but  their  sani- 
tary value  is  great.  Everything  must  be  of  the  best 
quality,  no  seams  or  roughness  can  be  allowed  to  catch 
food  or  odors,  and  the  stove  manufacturers  must  give 
you  a  guarantee  of  almost  everlasting  life. 

Stoves  to-day  are  made  with  and  without  shelves,  some 
have  the  ovens  above,  some  below.  But  where  the  oven 
is  below  it  is  a  great  boon  to  have  the  top  at  least  32" 
high — 38"  from  the  floor  is  better,  so  that  the  oven  is 
sufficientliy  high  to  obviate  back  breaking,  and  the  cook- 
ing surface  high  enough  to  eliminate  the  back  bend  for 
the  ordinary  cooking  processes.  Ranges  to-day  are  built 
so  that  there  is  absolutely  no  guess  work  either  in  man- 
agement or  accomplishment. 

New  Devices 

A  recent  improvement  is  a  stove  with  an  oven  heat- 
regulating  device,  absolutely  controlling  the  tempera- 
ture. Because  this  device  is  used  by  domestic  science 
cooking  schools,  cooking  must  be  an  exact  science.     No 

especial  training  is  required  to  handle  this  device,  and 

75 


76  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

it  has  no  working  parts  to  get  out  of  order ;  the  tempera- 
ture is  simply  controlled  and  maintained  by  the  turn  of 
a  wheel. 

This  enables  you  to  bake  without  opening  the  oven 
door.  A  chart  is  supplied  by  which  you  can  cook  any 
kind  of  dish,  the  time,  the  temperature  and  the  neces- 
sary decreasing  or  increasing  of  the  temperature  being 
given  clearly. 

One  new  type  of  stove  has  the  smooth  top.  It  looks 
not  unlike  a  coal  stove.  It  has  no  aching  voids  for 
things  to  spill  into,  nor  can  pots  tip  over  into  the  yawn- 
ing chasms.  This  saves  a  lot  of  needless  irritation, 
which  is  important  with  the  present  high  temperaments 
of  cooks  and  housemaids.  This  stove  stands  38"  from 
the  ground. 

The  Top 

An  interesting  feature  is  that  the  whole  top  becomes 
heated  and  is  usable,  whereas  in  the  ordinary  four- 
burner  top  only  four  utensils  can  be  used  at  once.  This 
top  is  connected  with  a  flue  which  draws  the  heat,  so 
that  there  is  no  waste  of  gas.  If  necessary,  the  lids  can 
be  raised  and  the  flame  from  the  burner  will  just  tip 
the  utensil,  the  proper  position  for  flames.  The  oven  in 
this  range  is  so  planned  that  it  can  be  opened  from  the 
bottom  with  either  hand.  Another  stove  has  a  top  that 
is  semi-smooth  and  semi-spider,  allowing  you  both  sys- 
tems. 

Should  a  vessel  spill  over  in  the  ''smooth  top,"  the  top 
catches  the  overflow  and  it  is  simply  washed  off  instead 
of  the  usual  pulling  out  of  the  tray  and  the  raessed-up 
burner  plate,  which  must  be  scraped  and  cleaned.  This 
range  is  made  tall  and  narrow,  ready  for  the  small  as 
well  as  the  large  kitchen. 

All  gas  stoves  to-day  have  the  automatic  lighter,  which 


Courtesy  of  Yulcan  Stove  Co, 

THE   SMOOTH  TOP   38"    GAS  RANGE  TAKES  THE   STOOP  OUT  OP 
STOOPID     COOKERY 


TAKING  GUESSWORK  OUT  OF  COOKERY   79 

gives  you  freedom  from  the  use  of  matches  and  makes 
gas  nearly  as  convenient  as  electricity.  Of  course,  gas 
is  hotter  in  the  summer  than  electricity,  and  to  obviate 
this  many  of  the  stove  makers  produce  marvelously  con- 
trived combination  ranges  of  gas  and  electricity. 

Some  stoves  have  plate  warmers  above  and  some  have 
a  shelf  open  and  available  on  which  to  warm  dishes, 
which  also  makes  a  convenient  rack  for  dishes  while  the 
rest  of  the  meal  is  cooking. 

Nearly  all  stoves  are  equipped  with  broiler  chamber, 
baking  oven  and  wire  shelves.  One,  particularly  con- 
venient, has,  instead  of  the  tv/o  full-sized  shelves  in  the 
large  oven,  one  shelf  divided  into  two  pieces,  allowing 
for  more  elasticity  in  placing  different  dishes  in  the 
oven. 

In  the  stove  which  has  the  oven  heat-regulating  de- 
vice, there  are  many  of  the  fireless  cooker  features  with 
some  of  its  drawbacks  eliminated.  For  example,  it  has 
no  thick  walls  which  eventually  become  impregnated 
with  odors  of  past  meals;  the  time  in  pot  watching  is 
eliminated ;  you  can  do  other  work  and  yet  be  sure  that 
your  cooking  is  being  done  well.  So  much  of  the  cook- 
ing can  be  done  in  the  oven  that  fewer  burners  are 
necessary.  This  type  is  made  in  sizes  varying  from  35" 
wide  and  upward. 

Regulating  Heat 

When  you  are  ready  to  put  the  whole  meal  in  the 
oven,  your  instruction  card  will  tell  you  the  correct 
temperature  to  set  the  thermostat.  You  can  then  leave 
the  oven  unwatehed  for  a  period  of  three  to  four  hours. 
No  preliminary  cooking  is  necessary ;  in  fact,  the  things 
can  be  put  on  in  cold  water  if  necessary;  furthermore, 
the  cost  of  cooking  is  no  more,  and  sometimes  less,  than 
with  the  old-fashioned  hit  or  miss  method. 


80  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Canning  with  this  oven  is  simplicity  itself,  as  there 
is  no  need  to  lift  the  big  containers  to  the  cooking 
surface. 

Many  people  prefer  the  fireless-cooking,  oven  gas 
stoves.  These  are  excellent  when  made  by  the  best  man- 
ufacturers and  certainly  help  the  servantless  house 
greatlly. 

The  old-fashioned  methods  of  finding  out  if  your  oven 
is  hot  are  as  follows :  Poking  your  head  into  the  oven, 
perilous;  thrusting  an  unoffending  hand  therein; 
browning  pieces  of  paper  or  a  bit  of  flour ;  burning  the 
gas  and  letting  it  go  at  that;  gauging  the  size  of  the 
flame:  but  these  are  unreliable,  for  everyone  feels  the 
heat  differently  and  the  quality  of  paper  varies  and 
atmospheric  conditions  differ.  How  many  times  have 
you  cooked  the  same  thing  the  same  way,  and  have  had 
success  one  day  and  failure  the  next.  What  waste — 
and  how  discouraging! 

With  the  particular  stove  in  question,  the  novice  soon 
becomes  an  expert.  As  much  of  the  cooking  can  be  done 
in  the  oven,  not  so  large  a  surface  stove  need  be  bought ; 
a  small  family  can  actually  use  a  two-burner  surface. 

Burners 

The  burners  on  all  the  best  stoves  are  regulated  by 
the  gas  companies,  from  whom  it  is  wise  to  buy,  unless 
you  are  purchasing  the  installed,  made-to-order  stove. 

One  firm  emphasizes  its  burner  because  it  spreads 
well;  it  claims  there  is  a  saving  of  gas,  which  is  quite 
true.  This  stove  also  stresses  its  glass  oven  door.  Now 
the  glass  oven  door  is  a  fine  thing,  but  when  meats  are 
being  cooked,  the  glass  becomes  greased,  and  unless 
cleaned  off  at  once  may  leave  furrows. 

The  cabinet  stove  is  the  type  used  practically  all  over 
this  country.    It  sits  on  high  legs  and  has  the  oven  (top 


Courtesy  of  Clrrk  Jewel  Stove  Compa-ny. 

TAKING    THE    GUESS    WORK    OUT    OF    OVEN    TEMPERATURES 
BY    THE    USE    OF    AN    AUTOMATIC    HEAT   REGULATOR 


?3^5 


TAKING  GUESSWORK  OUT  OF  COOKERY   83 

or  bottom),  warmers  and  shelves.  The  stove  without 
shelves  is  not  called  the  cabinet  style.  Usually  the 
cabinet  has  the  ovens  to  right  or  left  or  below  the  cook- 
ing top.  Some  of  these  stoves  have  a  separate  splasher 
on  the  side  of  the  back  wall  or  the  side  wall ;  this  is  not 
absolutely  necessary  if  the  stove  is  so  finished  that  the 
splashing  will  wash  oflP  easily.  Some  stoves  are  com- 
pletely enameled,  including  splasher;  others  are  just 
blue  iron  or  polished  steel.  Of  course,  there  are  the 
expensive  enameled  stoves  which  only  have  to  be  washed 
for  the  dirt  and  dust  to  slide  off. 

The  vital  thing  in  the  gas  stove  is  the  burner  and  its 
regulation.  Nothing  will  compensate  for  poor  burners, 
poor  insulation,  poor  heating.  Some  stoves  are  so  made 
that  the  linings  come  out  and  can  be  easily  washed 
and  greased  with  kerosene  thus  keeping  them  in  ex- 
cellent condition.  But  keep  your  ovens  more  than  spot- 
less. 

The  gas  supply  pipe  when  installed  with  a  stove 
should  be  not  less  than  %"  bore.  Some  companies 
advise  making  an  iron  pipe  connection  with  a  union 
coupling. 

The  best  results  for  the  gas  range  would  be  had  if 
connected  by  a  stove  pipe  to  a  chimney  but  great  care 
should  be  taken  to  avoid  a  down  shaft.  Much  moisture 
in  a  stove,  which  will  slowly  destroy  it,  denotes  this  down 
draft  presence.  Yet  sometimes  the  flue  connection  is 
a  nuisance,  as  it  is  at  other  times  a  necessity.  In  some 
districts  the  flue  is  necessary  by  ordinance. 

Top  burners  must  be  frequently  cleaned  and  when 
they  are  removed  the  drip  pan  can  be  cleaned  too  and 
the  space  in  which  the  drip  pan  rests.  Wipe  off  dust 
from  the  air  mixer,  that  is,  where  the  air  enters  the 
burner  to  make  the  flame  cook.  Grease  your  oven 
linings  occasionally  and  your  stove  will  wear  longer. 


84  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

If  your  stove  happens  to  have  a  porc'elain  enameled 
broiler  pan,  take  it  out  when  not  broiling  in  that  oven. 

Range  Facts 

Don't  use  a  big  flame  when  food  or  water  is  boiling. 
Nearly  all  the  good  stoves  have  air  and  gas  regulating 
devices  and  with  each  stove  the  method  is  explained  to 
the  purchaser.  Remember  that  you  want  a  blue  flame, 
that  the  tip  only  should  touch  the  utensil  and  that  the 
yellow  flame  may  mean  too  much  gas  and  cause  smok- 
ing or  it  may  mean  too  little  air.  Keep  your  flame  at 
the  blue  point,  with  no  yellow  or  white  tip. 

Before  lighting  any  burner,  try  all  the  gas  valves  to 
be  sure  that  they  are  closed  and  that  there  is  no  gas  in 
the  range.  If  the  burners  pop  out  close  partly  the  air 
mixers. 

The  simmering  burner  on  the  new  stoves  is  a  great 
convenience  and  economy,  if  the  burnen  is  perfectly 
regulated.  In  most  cases  the  air  mixer  must  be  nearly 
closed. 

Cakes  bake  unevenly  perhaps  if  they  are  set  too  near 
the  front  of  the  oven.  Be  sure  to  put  them  at  least  in 
the  center  or  better  near  the  back. 

To  prevent  fish  from  burning  while  broiling  or  bak^ 
ing,  grease  the  gridiron.  In  broiling  steak,  if  it  is  thick, 
place  it  1"  from  the  flame.  If  not  thick  2"  or  3". 
Keep  the  broiler  door  open  while  broiling.  Heat  the 
oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  with  the  door  shut  before 
putting  the  meat  or  fish  in  to  broil. 

Remember  the  tip  of  the  blue  flame  is  sufficient  to 
cook;  any  other  flame  condition  spells  waste. 

When  your  burners  do  not  light,  they  are  probably 
grease  clogged.  Remove  them  and  boil  them  in  a  solu- 
tion of  washing  soda. 


TAKING  GUESSWORK  OUT  OF  COOKERY       85 

Turn  down  the  flame  when  the  substance  begins  to 
boil. 

Unusual  cooking  capacity  in  a  small  space  is  really 
one  of  the  great  advantages  of  the  new  stoves.  Know 
your  space,  your  family  needs  and  then  buy  your  stove 
from  one  of  the  best  makers  or  order  it  through  your 
gas  company. 

Manufacturers  have  tried  to  beautify  their  stoves,  but 
when  you  buy  see  to  it  that  you  buy  comfort  first. 

A  gas  range  should  keep  in  first  class  condition  for  at 
least  fifteen  years — that  is,  if  you  buy  the  best  and  take 
raesonable  care  of  it. 

All  kinds  of  stove  combinations  can  be  had:  gas  and 
coal,  gas,  coal  and  electricity,  electricity  and  gas,  oil 
and  electricity,  etc.  So  every  taste,  every  necessity  can 
be  met  in  stoves  to-day.  There  is  but  one  rule — buy 
what  you  need  and  the  best  of  its  kind. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

THE  OIL.  RANGE 

WHAT  makes  it  possible  to  live  in  gasless,  electric- 
less,  coal-less,  transportationless  places  in  gusta- 
torial  ease  and  digestivfe  comfort?  The  oil  range.  Not 
the  old-time  messy  oil  stove,  but  the  efficient,  capacious 
oil  range.  In  districts  unopened  to  modern  improve- 
ments cooking  is  made  a  pleasure  rather  than  a  drudg- 
ery, with  this  highly  effective  medium,  so  effective  that 
nothing  that  can  be  done  on  any  other  type  of 
stove  need  be  omitted  in  the  daily  routine.  It  has 
the  maximum  comfort  and  the  minimum  cost  and 
trouble.  This  range  too  need  never  be  lighted  until 
wanted  and  can  be  "put  to  bed,"  immediately  upon 
finishing  the  meal.  So  now  there  need  be  no 
place  where  man  can  not  have  his  puddings,  his 
breads,  or  his  flap-jacks  with  speed  and  finish. 

The  two  most  important  types  of  oil  stoves  with  which 
it  is  worth  your  while  to  become  acquainted  are  the  wick 
and  the  wickless  (kindler  tjT)e).  It  is  quite  evident 
from  their  descriptive  titles  that  the  former  employs  a 
wick  as  heat  carrier  to  the  vessel  in  which  is  the  food; 
and  the  wickless  has  the  kindler  by  which  the  heat  is  car- 
ried to  the  food  in  a  different  way. 

The  wick  oil  range  is  a  development  born  directly 
of  the  lamp.  It  employs  the  round  wick  and  with  it 
in  its  best  form  a  long  chimney  is  used.  This  long 
draught  chimney  has  proven  in  the  case  of  the  lamp  to 
make  for  perfect  combustion  of  the  oil.     Hence  after 

86 


THE  OIL  RANGE  87 

many  years  of  trial  and  proof  the  wick  stove  is  de- 
veloped to  a  delightful  point  of  comfort  and  utility. 
Speed,  lack  of  odor  and  perfect  work,  three  necessi- 
ties of  any  stove,  are  here  exemplified,  to  say  nothing 
of  longevity  and  ease  of  upkeep. 

You  have  probably  used  the  heat  from  a  lamp  chim- 
ney to  light  a  cigarette  or  a  match  or  even  to  heat  a 
curling  iron?  Well,  this  is  really  the  principle  of  the 
wick  stove.  This  heat  has  been  harnessed  and  petted 
into  cooking  usefulness  by  expert  heat  and  stove  engi- 
neers. 

The  parts  of  the  wick  stove  with  which  you  must  be 
acquainted  are  few  but  important: 

1.  The  burner 

2.  The  wick 

3.  Flame  spreader 

4.  Brass  wick  tube  (a  fine  feature,  in  that  it  is  of 
brass) 

5.  Clamp  set  screw 

6.  Hand  wheel  to  adjust  screw 

7.  Little  mica  door  which  opens  in  chimney  instead 
of  having  to  pull  off  the  chimney  as  you  do  in 
lighting  a  lamp. 

All  you  have  to  do  is  apply  the  match  and  touch  off 
the  wick  at  several  places.  Then  lower  the  wick  until 
the  flame  is  even. 

To  extinguish  the  flam«,  turn  the  little  wheel  to  the 
left.  Never  blow  it  out.  This  blowing  out  of  the  flame 
causes  all  sorts  of  irregularities  and  the  real  troubles. 

The  oil  range  is  supplied  in  the  best  types  by  gravity 
conduit.  That  is  to  say  that  the  oil  flows  from  a 
reservoir  into  the  burner,  and  as  the  oil  is  consumed  the 
fresh  oil  flows  down  and  takes  its  place,  so  there  can 
never  be  overflow  to  cause  fires  or  odors.  These  reser- 
voirs are  of  glass  and  in  one  case  the  manufacturer  has 


88  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

a  service  of  reservoirs  which  supplies  the  consumer  with 
a  rack  of  three  filled  reservoirs,  which  in  turn  replaces 
the  emptied  one.  This  obviates  entirely  the  need  of  the 
cook  to  pour  oil  in  the  reservoir  or  in  fact  know  she  is  us- 
ing oil!  Reservoirs  of  course  are  delivered  and  called 
for,  if  you  are  in  reach  of  a  dealer.  Where  this  service 
is  impossible  to  be  had  the  pouring  of  the  oil  into  the 
tank  is  simpler  than  simple.  It  is  no  more  difficult 
than  pouring  milk  into  a  glass.  In  truth  the  reservoir 
is  mechanically  adjusted  and  filled  with  oil — ^the  human 
being  but  its  guide  and  beneficiary. 

The  heat  wanted  in  the  wick  stove  depends  on  your 
culinary  need  and  consequently  on  how  high  or  how 
low  you  turn  the  wick.  Very  often  it  means  when  the 
flame  burns  low  when  it  should  burn  high  that  the  wick 
needs  a  cleaning.  Don't  blame  the  mechanism.  It  is 
difficult  to  say  how  often  you  need  to  buy  a  wick  or  how 
often  it  should  be  cleaned,  as  it  depends  very  much  on 
the  quality  of  the  oil  that  you  have  to  use.  Some  kero- 
sene is  charry  and  some  more  free  from  impurities  than 
other  kinds  of  kerosene. 

Here  are  some  points  to  observe  if  you  want  good  re- 
sults. 

1.  If  there  is  a  gap  in  the  flame,  the  wick  needs  clean- 
ing. There  should  be  a  continuous  round  fence  en- 
closing the  burner  around  the  flame  spreader.  Or  it 
may  mean  the  wick  is  up  against  the  flame  spreader. 

2.  Be  sure  that  the  wick  is  not  up  against  the  flame 
spreader  after  lighting,  because  it  will  prevent  the 
air  from  passing  through  the  center  of  the  brass 
wick  tube  and  cause  over-heating  of  burner  and  a 
murky  flame. 

3.  The  flame  when  high  should  show  white  points 
above  the  blue  body  of  the  flame.  These  white  points 
should  be  about  ly^"  for  perfect  combustion.  That 
means  that  there  will  be  no  odor  and  that  you 


THE   OIL  RANGE  89 

i 
will  get  all  the  heat  you  need  and  no  waste  of  fuel. 

4.  The  flame  has  lost  its  usefulness  when  the  line  of 
demarcation  between  the  white  and  the  blue  is  gone. 
The  flame  will  begin  to  smoke,  the  burner  will  be 
over-heated,  the  cookery  under-heated,  and  odors 
and  smudge  will  be  the  result.  Here  again  the 
human  equation  comes  in.    Use  your  eyes  effectively. 

5.  Cleaning  wicks  is  done  by  removing  the  chimney 
even  as  you  do  in  cleaning  a  lamp  wick.  Nothing 
new  in  this. 

6.  Watch  your  reservoir ;  never  allow  it  to  run  dry  or 
your  range  to  burn  dry.  Form  a  habit  of  watch- 
ing it  daily  and  you  will  never  regret  it. 

7.  Under  usual  circumstances  one  wick  should  last 
several  months. 

8.  Clean  wicks  daily  for  best  service. 

9.  Correct  unevenness  of  the  wick  with  a  pair  of 
scissors. 

10.  For  re-wicking,  arresting  any  other  troubles,  con- 
sult the  ' '  guide  book, ' '  which  gives  directions  simply. 

11.  But  remember  when  you  get  any  kind  of  range  you 
must  set  it  up  solidly  and  level  before  filling  with  oil 
or  cooking  upon  it.  Put  it  in  a  part  of  the  kitchen 
away  from  draughts  and  where  you  would  put  any 
other  stove. 

12.  Every  range  has  special  directions  for  inverting 
reservoir  and  refilling,  but  in  the  best  types  it  is 
always  very  easy  and  simple,  needing  no  strength  or 
skill. 

And  so  in  the  best  type  of  the  wick  range  we  have 
the  possibility  of  cooking  everything  that  any  family  or 
its  guests  need. 

Wicks  are  easily  bought  all  over  the  world.  The 
stoves  heat  rapidly;  the  oil  reservoir  is  easy  to  fill; 
your  hands  need  never  be   oily,  unless  through  crass 


90  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

carelessness.  There  is  a  basin  shaped  stove  base  to 
collect  char  and  dirt  and  the  feed  pipe  is  so  placed  as 
to  make  cleaning  easy. 

All  the  parts  should  be  easily  removable  for  cleaning 
and  all  should  be  simple  and  visible  in  every  part.  This 
grown  up  lamp  should  have  all  these  modern  twists. 

In  the  best  of  the  wick  type  you  should  have  the  best 
vitreous  enamel,  where  it  is  enameled,  baked  in  at  least 
three  times;  solid  brass  wick  tubes;  best  grade  of  steel 
tubing  and  heavily  tinned  plate  pipes  where  necessary. 

In  the  long  chimney-wick  type  the  flame  never 
touches  the  vessel.  In  the  short  drum  type  the  flame 
does  touch.  One  wick  type  manufacturer  makes  a  per- 
fect long  chimney  type  yet  also  makes  a  short  drum  type 
to  give  all  consumers  their  heart's  desire. 

WiCKLEss  Ranges 

The  wickless,  as  its  name  implies,  has  no  wick  but 
carries  the  heat  directly  to  the  cooking  vessel  and  there- 
fore shortens  the  cooking  time  a  little  as  the  heat  reaches 
the  spot  more  quickly  than  it  can  in  the  long,  non-flame 
touching  type  of  range. 

In  this  type  of  range  a  kindler  is  employed.  This 
kindler  is  a  round  asbestos  ring  (costs  about  10  cents  to 
replace)  which  lies  in  the  burner  bowl  and  is  slightly 
corrugated  at  the  top  and  stiffened  by  a  metal  band. 
Its  function  is  not  that  of  a  wick  at  all.  It  is  rather 
the  self-starter  of  the  stove  and  its  business  is  to  light 
the  oil  and  start  the  cooking.  The  stove  is  lighted 
by  applying  the  match  to  the  kindler  which  is  saturated 
by  oil  (from  its  very  position)  and  this  ignition  of  the 
kindler  furnishes  sufficient  heat  to  the  surface  of  the  oil 
to  turn  it  into  a  gas.  After  the  burner  is  started  the 
heat  automatically  keeps  the  gas  forming  (vaporizing) 
as  long  as  there  is  oil  in  the  burner.  So  you  can  see  that 
all  the  kindler  does  is  start  the  gas  ball  rolling. 


THE  OIL  RANGE  91 

The  wickless  type  of  range  is  equipped  with  a  12" 
seamless  burner,  which  will  last  several  years.  The  reg- 
ulation of  the  heat  is  managed  by  lowering  or  elevating 
the  oil  in  the  burner  bowl.  The  greater  the  area  of  oil 
exposed  on  which  the  heat  from  the  kindler  ring  can 
act  the  greater  the  amount  of  gas  formed  and  released, 
and  inversely  the  smaller  the  area  of  oil  surface  exposed, 
etc. 

This  range,  in  its  best  forms,  employs  a  lever  with  a 
dial,  which  when  turned  by  the  cook  to  the  point  in  the 
dial  she  knows  by  experience  she  needs,  automatically 
and  mechanically  adjusts  the  heat  from  simmering  point 
to  the  most  intense  heat  through  a  heat  scale  from  "no 
heat"  to  300°  Fahrenheit. 

With  the  dial  there  is  taken  out  of  oil  cookery  the 
guess-work  which  resides  in  most  cookers. 

Here  is  used  the  short  chimney,  with  very  concen- 
trated heat  focused  where  it  is  most  needed. 

In  lighting,  you  turn  the  lever  to  the  word  "light" 
on  the  dial.  After  the  kindler  is  saturated,  generally 
a  few  seconds  after  switching  the  lever,  the  chimney 
must  be  raised  and  the  match  applied  in  a  few  spots 
to  the  kindler.  In  a  few  moments  your  blue  flame  is 
going  full  blast  or  any  blast  you  desire  depending  on 
your  lever  setting. 

Gravity  supplies  the  oil  here  too,  as  in  the  wick  type. 
The  reservoir  with  its  glass  bull  's-eye  to  detect  oil  quan- 
tity holds  a  gallon  of  kerosene  sufficient  to  last  six- 
teen to  eighteen  hours  for  one  bvirner,  or  at  the  rate  of 
about  one  cent  per  hour.  Refilling  these  reservoirs  is 
very  simple,  and  when  you  go  to  buy  an  oil  range  this 
is  one  of  the  things  you  must  insist  upon.  Unscrew 
the  cap  in  this  case  and  pour  in  your  oil,  that  is  all. 
There  are  a  feed  pipe  and  release  which  gather  any 
sediment  that  may  be  in  the  oil. 


92  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILB 

Flame  Regulation 

Experience  is  the  best  teacher  in  the  way  of  knowing 
where  you  must  set  the  lever  to  get  the  hottest  flame. 
Sometimes  dependent  on  varying  conditions,  the  flame 
may  be  highest  when  the  lever  is  over  the  12th  division 
of  the  dial ;  sometimes  it  may  be  at  6  or  7  on  your  range. 
This  sort  of  thing  you  learn  by  knowing  your  range. 
Some  oil  will,  of  course,  be  left  in  the  burner  after  the 
light  is  turned  off.  Therefore  you  must  expect  it  to 
burn  a  little  while  after  you  have  turned  your  lever  to 
"out." 

The  blue  flame  to  be  just  right  must  touch  the  vessel 
with  its  uttermost  tip. 

On  some  of  the  most  modern  of  this  type  is  a  match 
scratcher  plate  which  makes  it  easy  to  light  the  match 
without  using  your  shoe,  a  good  white  wall,  or  the  seat 
of  your  pants. 

Every  stove  in  this  class  is  made  of  the  finest  pressed 
steel,  and  where  the  enamel  is  used  it  is  of  vitreous 
variety  with  three  bakings.  There  is  an  all  white  stove, 
too,  to  fit  in  with  the  bridal  effect  of  the  newer  kitchens. 

The  good  points  of  the  wickless  stove  are  many : 

1.  No  wicks  to  clean. 

2.  Unleakable. 

3.  More  powerful  burner  than  anywhere  else,  being 
12". 

4.  Burner  100%   odorless. 

5.  Delivers  heat  where  it  does  the  most  good. 

6.  Acts  a  little  quicker  than  any  other  types. 

7.  More  economical  in  upkeep. 

Either  one  of  the  stoves  herein  outlined  is  the  best 
on  the  market  as  to  type  and  manufacture.  If  you 
have  to  buy  a  stove  try  and  get  the  most  for  your  ex- 
penditure by  a  collection  of  the  best  traits  in  the  stove. 


THE  OIL  RANGE  93 

No  mechanical  device  is  perfect  without  perfect  hand- 
ling. If  you  do  not  put  in  the  wick  correctly,  or  if  you 
do  not  light  your  kindler  sufficiently  you  will  have 
trouble.  If  you  put  a  tire  on  your  car  in  the  wrong 
way  you  would  not  blame  the  car,  yet  the  tendency  is 
always  to  blame  the  oil  range  and  immediately  call  up 
your  dealer  and  say  that  your  stove  is  smelly  or  that 
the  wick  won't  burn  or  that  the  kindler  won't  start,  etc. 

The  best  firms  give  every  consumer  a  little  text  book 
to  consult  when  in  difficulty. 

These  stoves  even  in  electric  and  gas  regions  are 
used  in  summer  because  they  are  cool  cookers. 

The  advantage  over  coal  is  evident,  as  there  is  no  fire 
to  clean  out,  no  kindling  wood  necessary,  no  ashes  to 
carry  and  no  coal  to  lug  about,  to  say  nothing  about 
wondering  about  dampers,  flues  and  the  like. 

In  all  ranges  burning  oil  of  the  best  makes,  you  can 
have  all  the  heat  you  want  and  as  little  as  you  want  as 
well. 

On  all  well  proportioned  ranges  you  can  put  some  of 
the  excellently  constructed  ovens. 

The  ranges  come  with  from  one  burner  to  five  burners. 
Some  are  built  in  cabinet  style,  with  shelves,  etc.  Some 
just  plain  style.  As  yet  none  of  the  cooking  surfaces 
is  quite  high  enough ;  a  few  inches  added  to  their  stature 
would  make  cookery  easier  on  the  human  back.  The 
cabinet  size  usually  stands  about  54I/2"  high,  64"  wide. 

The  spaces  between  the  burners  is  ample  for  comfort- 
able placing  of  utensils.  Watch  this  when  purchasing 
a  stove,  for  you  can  be  very  uncomfortable  with  a 
jammed  surface. 

It  is  pretty  much  a  matter  of  what  you  can  get  in  the 
way  of  either  of  these  two  specific  stoves.  They  are 
both  so  good.  The  wick  type  is  convenient  because  the 
wick  is  sold  all  over  the  world.     The  wickless  is  eon- 


94  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

venient  because  it  is  easy  to  clean  and  is  a  bit  more 
rapid  in  heating.  The  kindler  is  only  10  cents  and 
can  be  had  at  all  dealers  and  when  you  buy  the  stove 
you  can  get  a  supply. 

You  must  demand: 

No   odor   whatever 

Speedy  cooking 

Steady  flame 

Cleanliness  and  easy  to  clean 

Easily  replaceable  parts 

No  smut  and  dirt 

Easy  flame  control 

Oil  visible  in  reservoir 

Best  materials  on  the  market 

Perfect  combustion,  making  for  the  minimum  amount 
of  residue  carbon. 

With  the  oil  range  as  well  as  with  the  gas,  electric 
and  coal  range  there  can  be  bought  water-heating 
boilers,  ovens,  etc.;  and  with  one  stove,  special  broilers 
and  toasters. 

There  are  two  very  good  ovens  on  the  market  to  be 
used  with  these  stoves  and  with  other  kinds  as  well, 
each  one  with  its  special  selling  points.  Each  is  large 
enough  in  some  size  for  a  12  pound  turkey,  each  small 
enough  for  the  smallest  uses  (sizes  range  from  21V^"X 
18y2"Xl3"  to  13'' X 181/2" X 13").  They  weigh  from 
about  12  to  18  pounds.  You  place  the  oven  over  the  sur- 
face burner. 

One  oven  maker  claims: 
Asbestos  lining  for  insulation 
Shelves  set  for  5  different  altitudes 
Curved  top  to  oven  like  bakers'  oven  to  pass  off 

gas  and  prevent  air  pockets 
Shelf  support  growing  out  of  lining 
Strap  hinges 


THE  OIL  RANGE  95 

One  motion  to  handle  to  open  oven  door 
Door  closes  only  if  it  locks 

Special    asbestos    lining    porcelain    enameled    heat 
spreader,  triangular  in  shape,  to  deflect  heat  and 
prevent  burning 
Another  says  of  itself: 

Special  heat  resisting  lining 
Mica  windows  below  to  watch  flame 
Unbreakable  glass  and  unstreamable 
Three  point  locking  device  on  door 
All  glass  door. 
The  oil  range  is  not  cheap.    Yet  it  is  a  godsend  at 
certain  times.    We  are  not  advocating  it  for  general 
use  where  pipes  and  wires  and  coal  are  at  our  convenient 
disposal,  but  we  do  recommend  it  forcibly  and  sincerely 
where  you  want  a  simple,  efficient  cooking  medium  be- 
yond the  reach  of  the  popular  sources  of  heat. 

Unless  you  buy  the  very  best,  not  merely  the  best, 
oil  cooker  you  will  be  saddened,  and  with  the  best  you 
will  sign  yourself  Pollyanna  without  resevations. 

Just  about  now,  a  new  oil  range  is  being  advertised. 
It  is  a  cross  between  the  wick  and  the  wickless,  because 
it  uses  an  asbestos  and  brass  thread  wick  which  is  almost 
immortal,  for  it  can  be  reversed  when  charred  and  when 
both  sides  are  charred  it  is  burnt  off  in  the  stove  and 
ready  to  begin  its  double  life  again. 

Like  the  wickless  stove  the  flame  touches  the  vessel 
with  the  short  drum  construction,  and  like  the  wick  it 
uses  a  wick  even  though  quite  different. 

The  stove  is  of  japanned  tin,  and  is  made  in  cabinet 
type  and  in  the  ordinary  style.  It  is  also  in  the  ''best" 
class. 


CHAPTER  IX 

COOKING  BY  ABSENT  TREATMENT 

THE  fireless  cooker  is  primarily  a  fuel  saver.  Sec- 
ondarily, it  has  developed  into  an  absent  treat- 
ment cooker.  That  is,  the  food  can  be  cooking  while  the 
lady  of  the  house  is  airing  the  baby  or  at  church  or  at 
club  entertainments  or  while  the  cook  is  cleaning  the 
kitchen,  laundry  and  pantry.  Thirdly,  it  cooks 
thoroughly  and  longly  without  the  added  expense  of 
fuel  or  effort. 

It  was  first  made  with  a  box  and  with  excelsior  and 
padding  but  the  manufacturers  came  to  the  rescue  as 
they  always  do  to  supply  a  demand  and  the  com- 
fortable fireless  cooker  was  born. 

Its  story  is  short  and  sweet  and  to  the  point.  The 
essential  for  the  cooker  is  that  it  will  cook  by  retained 
heat.  Therefore,  it  must  be  built  so  that  there  will  be 
no  leakage  of  heat.  For  this  reason  it  must  have  per- 
fect insulation.  The  utensils  must  have  covers  that  are 
clamped  on  so  tight  that  they  retain  the  heat  gener- 
ated by  the  stove  or  electric  current.  The  lining 
should  be  non-absorbent  of  odors  or  "spill."  There- 
fore practice  has  proven  that  aluminum,  which  does 
not  rust  and  is  easily  cleaned,  is  best  for  this  lining. 
The  linings  too,  must  be  smoother  than  smooth  and  be 
as  seamless  as  it  is  possible  for  them  to  be  made. 

For  long  processes,  of  course,  the  heated  plates 
must  be  able  to  retain  heat  and  for  this,  soap  stone  and 
iron  plates  have  been  found  to  be  the  most  practical. 

96 


COOKING  BY  ABSENT  TREATMENT        97 

The  cookers  can  be  had  with  from  one  to  three  or  four 
compartments.  Therefore,  a  whole  dinner  can  be  cooked. 
They  claim  that  you  can  brown  with  them  as  well  as  in 
the  roasting  oven.  Browning  can  be  to  some  extent 
accomplished  by  an  accomplished  fireless  expert  with 
extra  heating  of  extra  plates  and  the  like,  but  for  real 
crisp  browning  it  is  as  well  to  take  out  the  food  and 
rapidly  brown  in  the  oven. 

The  best  results  are  gained  with  the  fireless  if  used 
in  conjunction  with  gas,  oil  and  electric  stoves.  With 
the  coal  stove  there  is  a  loss  of  fuel  saving  of  somewhere 
around  50%  due  to  the  fact  that  it  takes  so  much  time 
to  get  up  the  fire  in  a  coal  stove  before  the  plates  are 
heated  sufficiently  to  do  their  work  in  the  cooker. 

Therefore,  it  is  cheaper  if  you  are  going  to  use  the 
fireless  to  any  great  extent  to  have  a  one  burner  gas 
plate  on  which  to  heat  your  plates  for  the  fireless  cook- 
ing process. 

Fireless  Stoves 

In  the  chapters  on  gas  and  electric  stoves,  you  will 
find  there  mentioned  the  fact  that  there  are  some  stoves 
so  built  that  they  have  fireless  ovens.  That  simply 
means  that  they  are  so  insulated  and  constructed  that 
when  the  cooking  has  reached  a  certain  point,  the 
current  of  electricity  or  the  gas  can  be  turned  off  (in 
some  cases  turning  itself  off  automatically)  and  the 
rest  of  the  cooking  can  be  done  by  the  fireless  process 
or  on  retained  heat.  This,  of  course,  is  the  ideal  way, 
because  then  there  is  no  extra  paraphernalia  in  the 
house  and  the  stove  is  built  so  that  the  back  is  not  bent 
in  stooping  to  the  low  fireless  cooker.  For  this  reason, 
we  would  suggest  that  if  you  have  a  fireless,  it  is  best 
to  have  it  on  a  shelf  built  for  it  or  keep  it  on  a  table. 


98  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILB 

Save  your  back  or  your  kitchen  aid  where  you  can,  as 
we  have  but  one  back  for  every  process  in  life ! 

The  electric  fireless  cooker  is  one  which  has  its  own 
connection  with  the  electric  light  circuit.  It  is  not  a 
stove  or  part  of  a  stove — it  is  merely  a  most  convenient 
cooker  for  which  you  are  not  forced  to  heat  extra 
stoves  or  plates.  It's  a  two-in-one  combination.  Ac- 
cording to  directions  you  turn  on  and  off  the  circuit. 

Cooking 

After  you  become  accustomed  to  the  fireless,  you  will 
find  that  cooking  in  it  is  quite  definite  and  the  time  and 
the  schedule  can  be  heeded  like  clock-work.  Do  not  let 
the  food  cool  in  the  cooker,  or  you  will  have  the  cooker 
odor  to  battle  with  and  you  will  always  have  olfactory 
souvenirs.  The  cooling  and  steaming  in  the  box  will 
do  this  only  too  well.  Air  your  utensils  and  cooker 
after  each  usage  or  your  food  will  have  a  uniform 
flavor  which  to  say  the  least  is  most  unpleasant. 

Remember  that  it  takes  longer  to  cook  like  this  and 
that  you  will  only  save  time  by  being  able  to  do  some- 
thing else  without  fear  that  your  food  is  boiling  over 
or  burning  or  what  not.  This  cookery  takes  a  little 
practice,  it  is  like  everything  else,  a  case  where  prac- 
tise makes  perfect  and  where  the  good  utensil  and  a 
good  understanding  work  together  for  good,  while  a 
poor  utensil  and  a  slovenly  understanding  work  to- 
gether for  a  little  hell  on  earth,  and  this  is  putting  it 
not  one  whit  too  strong. 

It  is  no  doubt  true  that  tough  cuts  of  meat  are  better 
cooked  by  the  long  process  of  retained  heat;  it  is  no 
doubt  true  that  cereals  are  much  more  wholesome  with 
the  process  of  retained  heat,  yet  it  is  doubtful  whether 
the   fireless  cooker   is   ever  bought   for   these   reasons. 


COOKING  BY  ABSENT  TREATMENT        99 

It  is  bought,  however,  to  economize  time,  service  aud 
food.  There  is  less  waste  of  food  by  the  fireless  process. 
You  can  buy  cheap  cuts  of  food  if  you  have  a  fireless 
cooker  and  enjoy  them. 

So,  the  fireless  cooker  is  not  an  embroidery  it  is  the 
**bib  and  tucker"  of  culinary  labor. 


CHAPTER  X 

QUESTIONS    FROM    THE    LEAGUE    OF    RATIONS 

(A  very  possible  conversation,  hut  invented  hy  the 
author  to  bring  out  some  points  that  the  reader  will 
readily  see.) 

"  TOY!"  gasped  Mrs.   Gregory  Eggleston,  turning 

\}    on  the  electric  current  for  breakfast  coffee. 

"Isn't  it  a  luxury  after  you've  been  out  late,"  she 
said  turning  to  her  guest,  Mrs.  Bradford  Reardon, 
"not  to  have  to  think  of  servants  and  be  able  to  have 
breakfast  like  this  at  10 :30 — with  impunity !  You  know 
I  think  the  kitchenette  will  rob  domestics  of  house 
room ! ' ' 

"It  certainly  is  a  luxury  to  have  a  little  cooking  kit 
like  this  whether  one  has  another  home  or  not.  And  to 
have  it  as  you  have — within  easy  driving  distance  from 
the  theater,  where  you  and  your  friends  can  spend  the 
night  and  breakfast  like  kings  from  this  shiny  apparatus. 
Besides,"  she  continued,  "it's  amazing  how  a  little 
6'X5'  room  (see  plan  1)  does  solve  the  omnipresent 
question  of  how  to  live  in  the  country  and  yet  not  have 
to  depend  on  hotels  to  keep  one  comfortable  while 
attending  to  the  affairs  of  business  and  pleasure  in  the 
city." 

"You're  right,"  agreed  Mrs.  Eggleston,  taking  some 
chilled  oranges  out  of  the  refrigerator  under  the  table, 
"Gregory  and  I  wanted  the  country  for  our  growing 
kindergarten   and  yet   it   seemed   impossible   until   we 

100 


?     & 


QUESTIONS  FROM  LEAGUE  OF  RATIONS     101 

thought  of  this  scheme.  Gregory  has  so  many  interests 
in  the  city  and  you  know  how  many  I  have  that  it  seemed 
almost  exile  to  leave  it.  If  we  didn't  have  this  place, 
I  'd  be  on  the  road  all  the  time,  whereas  now  when  I  am 
home   I  can  devote  my   entire  time  to  the  kiddies." 

Dropping  The  Maids 

**But,"  she  went  on,  "you'd  be  surprised  how 
Gregory  hated  the  idea  at  first  of  a  manless  or  maidless 
entourage.  He  said  he  couldn't  bear  to  think  of  me 
messing  with  stoves,  etc.,  and  now  you  should  see  him! 
He  loves  it — he  helps  me  too,  and  says  it  makes  him 
think  of  our  early  days — and  he  loves  me  to  wait  on 
him  and  be  alone  with  him." 

''The  kitchenette  as  the  domestic  canteen  has  come 
to  stay,"  Mrs.  Reardon  said,  and  then  looking  about 
her  with  an  amused  flash  in  her  eye,  "but  your 
kitchenette,  dear,  is  like  an  ordinary  kitchen.  The 
kitchenettes  I've  conjured  up  when  thinking  of  them 
at  all,  have  been  little  curtained  slits  in  the  wall  in  the 
corner  of  two  rooms  without  bath,  clothes  closets  with- 
out clothes,  bathrooms  without  baths,  washstands  capped 
with  shelves  full  of  canned  goods  and  gas  appliances 
all  permitting  of  cookery  with  every  requisite  for  human 
food  except  the  desire  to  eat  it." 

"Yes,"  laughed  Mrs.  Eggleston,  "I  guess  the  only 
definition  of  a  kitchenette  is:  a  place  to  cook  smaller 
than  your  previous  one  and  smaller  than  any  kitchen 
of  any  of  your  friends ! ' ' 

"But,"  Mrs.  Reardon  continued  with  rapture,  "your 
kitchenette  is  a  dream.  It  always  reminds  me  of  jewels 
— the  tiled  floors,  walls  and  ceiling  like  luminous  set- 
tings and  the  apparatus  like  lovely  gems.  Really  it 
breeds  appetite  and  culinary  prowess.    Any  one  could 


102  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

cook  in  this  place!  And  when  I'm  not  in  such  an 
esthetic  mood  I  am  reminded  of  an  engine  room  in  a 
small  electric  yacht." 

"That  is  amusing/'  said  Mrs,  Eggleston,  laughing, 
"but  I  hardly  can  see  how  it  could  be  otherwise  be- 
cause Gregory  and  I  thought  of  all  the  yachts  we  knew 
before  arranging  this  kitchenette.  He  always  says 
'Well,  dear,  we  certainly  are  ship-shape  here — even  if 
we  don't  own  a  yacht!'  " 

Whether  the  slit  in  the  wall  kitchenette  or  the  tiled 
kitchenette  is  the  only  kitchen  in  the  family,  or  whether 
the  kitchenette  is  only  for  weekends  of  the  foregoing 
variety,  it  must  be  small  and  ship-shape.  These  are  the 
only  definite  kitchenette  requirements. 

The  Necessary  Equipment 

It  need  consist  only  of  a  couple  of  three-foot  shelves, 
so  compact  are  the  stoves  and  ranges  made  for  light 
housekeeping.  But  roominess  is  no  crime,  so  multitu- 
dinous are  the  tools  to  play  with.  Smallness,  however, 
is  unusually  synonymous  with  convenience  in  kitchen- 
ettes. 

Nearly  every  professional  woman  and  many  men  in 
the  large  cities  are  banded  into  a  huge  League  of  Rations 
by  the  sympathetic  tie  of  small  kitchenettes.  These 
compact  cooking  outfits  make  the  lives  simple,  adaptable 
and  healthful,  they  are  the  result  of  the  hatred  of  the 
restaurant  and  cafe  which  turn  steady  diet  into  a  farce, 
and  they  put  an  end  to  the  regime:  "Eat,  drink  and 
be  merry,  for  to-morrow  we  diet."  And  so  the  slit  in 
the  wall  or  the  covered  cupboard  is  made  the  nucleus 
of  home  cooking  and  family  feeling.  No  servants 
needed,  none  missed  and  a  feeling  that  you  are  not 
living  down  by  doing  your  own  work  but  living  up  by 
managing  the  difficult  combination  of  living  well  and 


QUESTIONS  FROM  LEAGUE  OF  RATIONS    103 

doing  your  job  on  the  outside  to  the  best  possible  ad- 
vantage. 

For  the  most  part  these  kitchenettes  are  run  by  gas, 
but  are  for  that  reason  cheaper  in  the  cities  like  New 
York,  where  there  is  no  cooking  rate  for  electricity. 

But  the  new  appliances  for  the  electric  kitchenette 
are  like  toys,  they  are  so  fascinatingly  contrived.  You 
are  crazy  to  have  ice  cream  or  whipped  cream  with  which 
to  employ  the  electric  kitchen  power  unit  which  can  per- 
form all  these  miracles,  and  you  are  led  into  gustatorial 
and  epicurean  extravagances  by  cooking,  boiling,  baking 
and  grilling  at  the  same  time  on  the  new  stove.  A 
whole  dinner  can  be  cooked  on  the  dining  table  with 
these  new  ranges  even  if  you  have  no  kitchenette ! 

The  terror  of  dishwashing  has  evaporated !  The  elec- 
tric dishwasher  has  been  born  and  now  our  Ladies  Egg- 
leston  and  Reardon  can,  without  lost  of  epithelial  beauty, 
dash  into  the  kitchenette  for  their  matinal  refreshment 
— sans  sacrifice,  sans  anything  but  appetite  and  culinary 
ardor. 

In  the  model  Edison  kitchenette,  the  utensils  are 
hung  up  to  avoid  unnecessary  spinal  calisthenics.  The 
sink  is  near  the  stove  and  is  high  enough  to  save  the 
back  from  contortionate  bends.  All  surfaces  in  the 
kitchenette  should  be  an  inch  or  so  higher  than  that 
which  the  palm  of  the  hand  can  reach  without  bend- 
ing the  back.  The  floors  should  be  cement  or  hard 
wood  with  mat  or  with  linoleum,  either  cork  inlay,  tile 
or  brick;  the  ceiling  of  a  light  color  paint  or  tile  or 
brick;  the  walls  the  same  and  all  joinings  rounded  to 
avoid  the  cracks  at  the  base  of  the  wall  joining  the  floor, 
or  where  the  wall  and  ceiling  join. 

The  best  kitchenettes  are  tiled  or  bricked  with  gen- 
erous water  vent  so  that  the  light  hose  played  on  them 
flushes  and  cleans  them  in  no  time. 


104  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

One  of  the  best  arrangements  is  to  have  the  kitchen- 
ette apparatus  follow  this  succession:  (See  Plan  1) 
Drop  table,  closet,  sink,  work  table,  refrigerator  beneath, 
shelves  above,  utensils  hung  underneath,  stove,  on  either 
side  of  the  sink  drain  boards  of  hardwood  tilted  toward 
sink  or  copper  or  composition  slightly  tilted ;  and  a  gar- 
bage chute  on  right  side  of  work  table  near  the  sink. 

However  excellent  or  concentrated  the  arrangement, 
there  can  be  no  success,  however,  with  any  machinery 
unless  you  know  how  to  use  it  advantageously;  so  as 
engineer  in  the  electric  kitchenette  you  ought  to  know 
a  few  things  about  the  mysterious  current  over  which 
you  preside ;  how  to  use  it  economically,  how  to  use  it 
to  its  full  capacity  minus  disaster  and  how  to  have  the 
same  mental  attitude  toward  your  kitchenette  equip- 
ment as  the  workman  has  to  his  tools.  In  the  Edison 
kitchenette  is  a  little  sign  with  the  following  legend; 

Turn  off  the  current  when  the  range  is  not  in  use. 

1.  Start  the  oven  on  high,  then  turn  it  to  medium 
or  low. 

2.  Turn  oven  off  completely  and  finish  baking  and 
roasting  on  retained  heat. 

3.  When  contents  of  pot  are  boiling  fast,  turn  the 
plate  to  medium  or  low  for  long  cooking. 

Turn  off  current  when  nearly  done. 

Complete  the  cooking  by  retained  heat  in  the  plate. 
In  a  little  booklet  is  found  this  advice: 
Fires  caused  by  the  use  of  electric  stoves  are  mostly 

caused  by  carelessness. 

I.  Detach  the  plug  as  well  as  turn  off  current  at 
the  socket. 

II.  When  you  are  not  using  any  device  continually 
shut  off  current. 

III.  Grasp  the  plug  at  the  spring  not  by  the  cord. 

IV.  Blow-outs  are  caused  by  too  many  devices  all 


QUESTIONS  FROM  LEAGUE  OF  RATIONS     105 

attached  to  the  cluster  plug.  Reduce  the  num- 
ber. 

The  utensils  of  these  kitchenettes  are  without  end; 
some  of  them  are:  Tables,  ranges — aforementioned; 
oven  and  grill  combinations;  griddles;  toasters;  per- 
colators of  all  kinds;  large  and  small  ranges;  ice  cream 
freezers ;  combination  meat  grinders ;  ice  cream,  whipped 
cream  and  dough  mixing  units;  electric  ice  makers; 
automatic  time  ovens,  with  clock  attached  so  that  you 
can  put  something  in  to  cook  and  at  a  designated  time 
the  current  turns  itself  off;  immersion  heaters,  coffee 
mills ;  samovars ;  egg  boilers ;  buffer,  etc.  for  sharpening 
and  polishing  silver  and  knives;  and  countless  other 
things. 

But  the  latest  of  all  is  the  electric  kitchen  cabinet  or 
** Movie"  of  small  price  and  great  compactness;  gas 
or  electrically  ranged  and  arranged,  containing  in  its 
simple  confines,  pots,  pans,  ice  box,  folding  table,  flour 
bins,  stove,  shelves  for  dishes  and  all  the  comforts  of 
home.  Just  the  thing  for  one  night  stands  or  bache- 
lor's retreats! 

And  jot  this  down — that  if  you  have  a  good  refrig- 
erator, electric  or  plain,  you  can  have  all  the  onions  in- 
side of  it  that  you  want  without  affecting  other  foods, 
and  if  you  have  an  electric  ozonator  you  can  cook  onions 
in  the  smallest  kitchenette  without  damage! — so  they 
say! 


CHAPTER  XI 

KEEPING  IT   COOL 

SHE  rang  for  the  butler: 
''Wilson,   please   ask  the  chef  what  kind  of  a 
refrigerator  the  architect  put  in  for  us." 

"Very  well,  madam,"  and  he  departed  to  the  kitchen. 

This  same  chatelaine  did  not  send  for  the  butler  to 
inquire  what  kind  of  an  automobile  her  garage  held. 
Not  for  a  moment !  She  knew,  too,  the  difference  be- 
tween the  Rolls-Royce,  her  car,  and  the  Ford,  or  any 
other  car!  Yet,  she  didn't  know  her  refrigerator! 
And  to-day,  although  all  the  world's  a-wheel,  the  very 
crux  of  the  situation  is  the  refrigerator !  Peace — war — 
the  economic  structure  of  nations  hinges  on  the  pres- 
ervation of  food,  not  only  in  refrigerating  cars,  but 
in  our  kitchens;  for,  as  our  kitchens  save  food,  just  so 
much  more  easily  will  the  world  be  fed  and  unrest  cease. 

Beyond  much  doubt  the  chic  porcelain-lined  refrig- 
erator of  to-day  is  the  corner-stone  of  the  halls  of 
domesticity;  for  what  in  the  unconscious  song  of  every 
husband  is  a  wife  without  well-kept  food !  And  is  there 
any  romance  that  will  survive  flabbjy  lettuce  and  pulpy 
celery  ? 

How  It  is  Made 

The  booklets  about  the  refrigerator  are  entrancing! 
The  pictures  bring  to  mind  marble  halls,  a  la  Alma 
Tadema,  and  you  might  wonder  why  he  never  used  a 

106 


KEEPING  IT  COOL  107 

modern  refrigerator  in  one  of  his  Roman  paintings! 

But  you  will  remember  that  the  linings  of  the  refrig- 
erator are  not  of  marble  no  matter  how  much  they  re- 
semble it,  but  instead  must  be  made  in  one  piece  of 
smooth,  hard,  non-porous,  non-warpable,  non  rustable 
material,  the  best  type  of  which  is  the  bumt-in 
vitreous  porcelain  in  several  layers  on  a  metal  backing. 
These  linings  must  be  made  in  one  piece  with  no  seams. 
No  seams  and  seamless  are  quite  different  in  their 
implication.  **No  seams"  is  what  it  seems  to  indicate, 
but  seamless  means  a  camouflage  of  joints.  Joints 
and  seams  are  food  and  odor  entrappers  and 
presage  disease  and  death.  Many  of  the  advertised 
enameled  interiors  are  made  of  nothing  but 
paint  heated,  not  burnt-in,  which  therefore  flakes 
off  or  crazes  (cracks  form)  and  falls  into  the  food, 
which  of  course  is  not  a  particularly  epicurean  sort  of 
truffle ! 

The  doors,  too,  must  be  seamless,  jointless,  screwless 
and  smooth. 

The  shelves  and  other  partitions  must  be  of  smooth, 
heavily  tinned  wire  mesh.  Smooth  to  prevent  accumu- 
lation of  food;  and  the  wire  mesh  to  insure  rapid  and 
unimpeded  circulation  of  air. 

The  Nine  Points 

Whereas  some  refrigerator  owners  may  keep  butlers, 
the  following  points  are  more  essential  to  the  maidless 
home,  because  effort  and  energy  and  strength  are  saved 
to  say  naught  of  money  and  ice  if  conditions  are  such 
that  the  ice  will  not  fade  away  rapidly  and  cleaning 
have  to  be  done  under  difficulties  of  construction. 

Therefore,  to  preserve  the  sanitation  of  the  home  and 
the  consequent  sanity  of   the   world  before  buying  a 


108  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

refrigerator  the  following  Nine  Points  should  be  laid 
before  the  Kitchen  Diplomatic  Table: 

1.  Does  it:    Maintain  a  low  and  uniform  tempera- 
ture? 

2.  Maintain  a  pure  atmosphere? 

3.  Appear  to  keep  absolutely  sanitary? 

4.  Seem  to  be  built  to  keep  perfect  circulation  and  an 
absence  from  odors? 

5.  Keep  free  from  moisture? 

6.  Seem  built  to  be  economical  in  ice  consumption! 

7.  Have  a  system  to  insure  perfect  drainage  ? 

8.  Contain  a  porcelain  lining  in  provision  chamber? 

9.  And  does  it  seem  to  be  built  for  durability  as  well 
as  for  beauty? 

And  now  about  enforcing  the  Nine  Points. 

The  Insulation 

How  for  instance  is  a  minimum  temperature  to  be 
kept  ?  Chiefly,  by  insulation — this  is  a  strictly  mechani- 
cal term  understood  by  motorists  and  engineers  and 
must  be  understood  by  the  housewife,  who  is  a  domestic 
or  kitchen  engineer  if  she  is  anything.  The  low  tem- 
perature is  kept  by  keeping  out  the  outside  heat  and 
keeping  in  the  inside  cold!  After  much  experiment, 
it  has  been  found  that  the  walls,  floors  and  doors  of 
every  refrigerator  must  have  at  least  one  air  space, 
from  six  to  nine  layers  of  insulating  material  consisting 
of  pebbled  cork,  or  certain  patented  materials,  mineral 
wool,  asbestos  and  various  layers  of  porous  substances 
which  keep  out  the  outer  warm  air  and  prevent  the 
cold  air  from  escaping.  (See  illustration.)  Well  in- 
sulated refrigerators  backed  up  against  boilers,  stoves 
or  vats  maintain  a  temperature  far  below  58  or  60 
degrees;  some,  the  best,  maintaining  50  degrees. 


KEEPING  IT  COOL 


109 


As  TO  Ice  Chambers 

The  ice  compartment  should  be  above,  and  to  one  side, 
so  that  the  cold  air  from  the  melting  ice  can  descend, 
as  is  the  custom  of  cold  air,  and  can  rise  again  as  it  gets 
heated  in  its  contact  with  the  provisions  and  pass  up 
over  the  ice,  be  cooled  and  pass  down  again  with  its 
collected  odors  through  the  drain.    This  is  what  is  called 


PORCELAIN  ENAMEL 
ILItsHNG   ONE  PIECE 
DEAD  Alft  SPACE 
INS  IDE  WOOD  LINING 
BLACK  VATE.R  PR  O  OF  PAPCR 
WOOL  FELT  PAPER 
FLAXLINUM  IN&ULATTON 
OUT51DEWO0D  CASB 


Courtesy  of  Bohm  Syphon  Co. 

NOR   COLD   NOR  HEAT   CAN   GET   BEYOND  THESE 
FORTIFICATIONS 

air  circulation,  and  when  the  ice  box  is  properly  con- 
structed, and  when  the  ice  compartment  is  kept  full, 
the  air  is  in  constant  motion,  traveling  over  and  over 
again  up  and  down  and  around  the  food  and  ice.  This 
constant  activity  of  the  air  is  what  insures  an  odorless 
condition,  unmouldy  and  cold  food. 


110  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

In  the  best  refrigerators  the  ice  chamber  extends  a 
few  inches  below  the  door  and  is  lined  with  the  highest 
grade  of  smooth  galvanized  metal,  lock  jointed,  and  is 
without  seams  and  sharp  edges. 

In  some  refrigerators  the  wall  between  the  lee  com- 
partment and  the  provision  chamber  is  slatted,  in  some 
there  is  a  space  at  the  top,  in  others,  holes  are  bored, 
top  and  bottom,  to  permit  the  free  egress  of  the  circulat- 
ing air.  These  methods  are  good  in  varying  degrees. 
The  main  things  to  be  kept  in  mind  are : 

1.  Does  the  air  circulate  enough  to  prevent  any 
moisture  accumulating  in  the  refrigerator?  Can  salt 
be  kept  dry  and  granular  in  it  for  one  hundred  hours  ? 

2.  Does  the  refrigerator  keep  below  60  degrees,  or 
better  between  45  and  50  degrees  ?  Will  a  damp  cloth 
dry  quicker  inside  than  outside  of  it,  because  of  the 
rapid  circulation  and  dryness  of  the  air? 

3.  Do  matches  keep  dry  and  can  they  be  lighted  by 
being  struck  on  its  walls?  (This  shows  whether  the 
ice  box  is  dry!) 

4.  Does  the  milk  taste  of  cheese  or  the  butter  of  the 
soup? 

If  they  have  any  "acquired  traits,"  you  may  be  sure 
the  circulation  of  air  in  your  refrigerator  is  bad  or  else 
there  are  seams  or  crazes  in  the  tile,  holding  odors  in 
their  grip.  Tiles  and  other  beautiful  interiors  have 
in  many  instances  been  discarded  by  many  makers 
because  of  their  brittleness  or  pertinacious  grip  on  odors 
— which,  in  the  form  of  gases,  poison  foods  and  hence 
the  family!  Opal  glass  has  been  dropped  because  of 
its  fragility  in  lighter  weights.  There  are,  however, 
some  manufacturers  who  use  tile  with  excellent  result. 
Another  important  feature  is  the  drain  pipe,  more 
important  almost  than  the  exhaust  on  the  motor.  If 
this  pipe  is  not  constructed  solely  to  carry  off  odors  and 


KEEPING  IT  COOL  111 

waste  materials  from  the  cleanest  ice  and  not  to  import 
insects,  gases  and  warm  air  from  the  sewage  of  the 
town,  it  will  collect  a  very  tidy  packet  of  typhoid, 
diptheria  or  any  home-seeking  germs.  This  drain  ought 
therefore  to  have  a  water-sealed  trap  in  it,  it  should  be 
smooth,  of  hard,  well-finished  metal  and  be  so  simply 
cleaned  that  the  kitchen  maid,  or  whoever  is  delegated 
to  perform  the  laving  of  this  important  part  of  the 
household,  should  not  look  forward  to  the  performance 
with  horror,  but  with  a  sense  of  ease. 

There  isn't  a  doubt  that  a  faulty  drain  in  the  refrig- 
erator has  caused  more  typhoid  than  anything  else. 

Think  what  it  means  then  to  be  a  good  kitchen  en- 
gineer— what  service  you  can  render  your  family !  Few 
home-keepers  realize  the  necessity  of  understanding  the 
underlying  principles  of  air  circulation,  sanitation  and' 
germination  but  what  a  lot  of  misery  could  be  avoided 
if  the  chatelaine  or  even  the  wife-cook  had  a  little 
technical  knowledge.  How  this  would  dignify  the  sci- 
ence of  the  home.  And  yet  how  lightly  is  the  function 
of  home-keeper  assumed  and  how  many  brainy  women 
look  down  upon  it ! 

How  TO  Use  a  Refrigeeatob 

But  if  you  have  everything  to  assure  perfection  in 
refrigeration  and  know  not  how  to  use  it,  it  is  as  if  you 
had  none  at  all. 

Note  this  amendment  to  the  nine  points: 

1.  Keep  your  ice  chamber  full,  even  after  Dry 
Laws.  It  saves  ice  and  preserves  your  food.  The  cir- 
culating air  will  only  go  ''over  the  top"  as  far  as  the 
bulk  of  ice  drives  it. 

2.  Never  put  any  food  in  the  ice  compartment.  It 
must  play  an  infinite  solitaire. 


112  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

3.  Keep  the  doors  shut,  and  open  them  as  little  as 
possible. 

4.  If  the  ice  gives  out,  take  out  all  the  material  and 
rinse  out  the  refrigerator.  Refill  it  with  ice  and  keep 
the  door  shut  at  least  six  hours.  And  remember 
sufficiency  of  ice  insures  efficiency  of  refrigeration 
and  efficiency  of  refrigeration  means  a  sufficiency  in 
expenditure — for  a  refrigerator. 

Water  coils  can  be  put  in  some  ice  chambers  which 
connect  directly  with  the  water  supply.  In  this  way 
the  water  can  be  kept  continuously  cool  for  drinking 
under  all  conditions  of  outside  temperature. 

The  outside  of  the  ice  box  should  be  of  hard  wood 
or  porcelain,  the  hardware  of  the  best,  including  lever 
door  handles. 

Back  doors  for  filling  the  ice  box  can  be  set  so  that 
the  ice  can  be  put  in  from  the  outside  of  the  ice  house, 
room,  pantry  or  kitchen.  This  avoids  useless  handling 
and  melting  of  the  ice  and  obviates  the  iceman's  journey 
through  the  house. 

And,  above  all,  choose  a  refrigerator  that  has  no  un- 
necessary "improvements"  in  the  ice  chamber  which 
have  to  be  taken  out  and  scalded.  The  easier  it  can  be 
rinsed  from  within  the  more  often  the  attendants  will 
clean  it ! 

And  remember  this,  too,  that  an  ice  box  is  a  cooler 
where  the  ice  and  provisions  go  in  the  same  chamber, 
while  the  refrigerator — well,  you  know  it  all  now. 

And,  by  the  way,  if  you  want  a  useful  little  device  to 
keep  your  grape  juice  or  yourself — cool — while  motoring 
this  summer,  look  up  a  little  basket  refrigerator  which 
comes  in  many  sizes  and  many  prices. 


CHAPTER  XII 

THE  PASSING  *0F  THE  ICE  MAN 

*  *f_T  OW  would  you  like  to  be  the  ice  man?"  is  the 

L  JL  lyrical  refrain  to  an  ancient  ditty  that  is  get- 
ting more  and  more  obsolete  every  day,  for  there  is  a 
mechanical  conspiracy  to  oust  the  ice  man  from  his  age- 
long position  as  purveyor  to  the  home.  So  do  ice  men, 
gladiators  and  dogs  have  their  day  and  relinquish  to 
machinery  their  evanescent  glories. 

Nowadays  everybody  knows  that  there  are  domestic  re- 
frigerating plants  for  home  use  that  displace  the 
ice  man  and  in  which  pure  ice  for  table  use  can  be  made. 
Many  people,  however,  do  not  realize  the  reliability  of 
such  equipment,  the  simplicity  of  its  operation,  and 
the  satisfaction  to  be  derived  from  its  use,  nor  yet  that 
there  is  an  actual  saving  in  its  use.  These  facts  will, 
however,  be  borne  out  by  thousands  who  have  freed 
themselves  from  the  bondage  of  the  ice  man. 

Even  though  few  will  care  just  what  contributes  to 
making  the  coldness,  it  might  be  well  to  give  a  simple 
explanation  of  the  principle  of  making  icfe,  in  order  that 
the  prospective  purchaser  will  know  what  she  is  getting. 

When  you  wash  your  hands  they  feel  cool  if  you  do 
not  dry  them.  You  say  they  are  cool  because  the  water 
evaporates,  but  the  fact  is  that  the  evaporation  takes 
place  because  the  water  is  drawing  on  the  heat  from  the 
air  and  your  hands  feel  cool  in  the  process.  And  so 
in  simplest  terms  engineers  have  found  refrigerants  or 
liquids  which  vaporize  or  evaporate  at  low  temperatures, 

113 


114  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

and  as  they  turn  from  liquids  to  gasses  they  use  up  the 
heat  and  leave  the  air  cold.  Some  of  these  refrigerants 
are  sulphur  dioxide,  chloride  of  ethyl,  ammonia,  etc. 

There  are  two  ways  of  having  refrigeration  in  the 
home: 

1.  The  mechanical  refrigerator  (which  is  permanently 
cool  with  the  machinery  a  part  of  itself) — one  unit. 

2.  The  domestic  refrigerating  plant  (for  making  ice 
and  steadily  producing  even,  low  temperatures)  which 
you  can  have  installed  in  your  own  refrigerator — two 
units. 

The  general  system  of  home  making-ice  refrigerators 
consists  of  the  brine  tank  with  copper  coils  within,  a 
motor-driven  compressor  and  a  condenser  of  copper 
piping.  The  compressed  liquid  passes  through  an 
expansion  valve  into  the  brine  tank  where  the  pressure 
is  reduced  and  it  changes  into  a  gas,  flows  out  through 
and  is  condensed  by  the  condenser,  changed  back  into  a 
liquid,  is  pumped  back  again  by  the  motor  and  starts 
cycling  again — indefinitely.  In  the  best  ice-making 
plants  there  is  a  heat  control  which  turns  on  the  motor 
when  the  temperature  in  the  refrigerator  gets  too  high 
and  turns  it  off  when  it  is  sufficiently  low. 

In  one  refrigerator  there  is  a  device  by  which  the 
food  compartments  are  kept  at  any  temperature  you 
desire,  usually  around  40°,  while  the  temperature  of 
the  ice-making  compartment  is  never  allowed  to  rise 
above  20°.  By  this  arrangement  it  is  possible,  and  very 
often  the  case,  that  ice  will  be  made  in  the  ice  compart- 
ment without  running  the  electric  motors  for  hours, 
while  food  is  kept  in  the  food  compartments  at  slightly 
above  freezing  point.  Fancy  the  health  insurance  that 
the  best  ice-less  processes  guarantee  in  the  home — in- 
fant's food,  for  example,  can  be  absolutely  fool-proof. 

Although  the  above  technical  libretto  is  of  some  use, 


THE  PASSING  OF  THE  ICE  MAN         115 

the  things  that  most  people  want  to  know  and  are  asking 
are  these: 

1.  Is  ice  making  at  home  practical? 

2.  Is  it  messy? 

3.  Can  I  use  my  old  refrigerator? 

4.  Are  they  to  be  had  in  a  special  refrigerator  1 

5.  Will  I  save  money? 

6.  Will  it  save  time  and  annoyance? 

7.  What's  the  use  anyway? 

A  good  refrigerator  is  a  jewel,  and  it  is  the  first 
requisite  to  be  considered.  It  must  be  insulated  well 
enough  to  keep  out  hot  air  and  hold  in  cold.  It  must 
be  seamless  and  smooth  in  its  linings.  The  air  circula- 
tion must  be  continuous.  The  temperature  inside  must 
never  be  higher  than  an  average  of  45°  and  rarely  that. 
In  such  a  refrigerator  one  should  be  able  to  keep 
matches  dry  and  butter  must  never  absorb  any  of  the 
charm  of  the  onion. 

If  you  have  such  a  refrigerator,  keep  it  by  all  means, 
and  install  the  ice-making  machine.  The  installation 
is  simple,  and  the  initial  expense  is  readily  made  up  in 
the  future  saving  of  ice  consumption.  But  do  not  in- 
stall an  excellent  ice  machine  in  a  poor  refrigerator,  as 
the  electric  bills  will  climb  the  Alps.  Yet  even  in  a 
poor  refrigerator  the  refrigeration  bills  are  lower  than 
if  you  had  iced  refrigeration. 

If  you  have  no  refrigerator,  it  is  possible  to  buy  a  re- 
frigerator which  has  in  it  the  ice-making  machines. 
But  before  you  buy  the  outfit  you  must  be  very  careful 
to  know  whether  this  refrigerator  comes  up  to  the  most 
stringent  tests  of  the  ordinary  first-class  refrigerator, 
for  this  reason :  The  average  refrigerator  in  which  ice 
is  used  has  to  be  efficient  because  it  must  keep  itself  dry 
with  actual  ice  evaporation  going  on,  it  must  keep  a  cold 
chest  with  an  actual  diminishing  ice  supply,  it  must 


116  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

keep  ice  melting  yet  staying  in  spite  of  weather  and  sur- 
rounding atmosphere.  To  make  the  circulation  of  air 
effect  these  processes  a  refrigerator  requires  fine  con- 
struction. 

The  refrigerating  manufacturers  have  put  the  most 
superb  effort  into  making  a  first-class  refrigerator,  and 
if  you  are  not  convinced  that  the  combination  outfit 
has  as  good  a  refrigerator  as  you  can  get  with  the  in- 
stalled outfit,  it  is  wisest  to  buy  the  refrigerator  and 
install  the  ice-making  machine.  There  are  excellent  re- 
frigerators on  the  market;  apply  rigid  tests  and  accept 
nothing  short  of  the  best. 

The  machinery  can,  in  some  instances,  be  put  on  top 
of  the  refrigerator  or  in  the  cellar  or  in  the  next  room 
or  right  next  to  the  refrigerator.  In  some  cases  the 
machine,  consisting  of  pump  and  condenser  and  motor, 
takes  up  no  more  room  than  1V^'X1^/4'X3%'.  This  can 
be  put  in  place  as  simply  as  installing  a  new  gas  stove. 

In  the  best  of  the  iceless  machines  the  refrigerator 
maintains  a  lower  temperature  than  the  iced  ones  in 
both  winter  and  summer.  At  a  cost  of  ten  cents  per 
kilowatt  hour,  and  with  ice  at  fifty  cents  per  hundred 
pounds,  it  is  cheaper  per  day  to  use  the  iceless  refrig- 
erator. 

There  is,  too,  less  dampness  in  the  iceless  refrigerator 
than  even  in  the  best  iced  ones,  due,  of  course,  to  the 
absence  of  the  ice  itself.  This  lower  percentage  of 
humidity  should  not  be  taken  as  a  reflection  on  the  low 
percentage  of  humidity  that  can  be  maintained  by  the 
iced  refrigerator  of  the  best  make,  which  is  a  percentage 
low  enough  to  dry  towels  and  keep  matches  dry. 

The  iceless  refrigerator  does  these  things: 

1.  Reduces  the  cost  of  refrigeration. 

2.  Maintains  a  constant  low  temperature  regardless 
of  weather  and  automatically  starts  up  "cold  mak- 


THE  PASSING  OF  THE  ICE  MAN        117 

ing"  when  you  raise  the  temperature  by  opening  the 
doors. 

3.  Operates  automatically  when  once  installed  and 
is  reliable,  clean  and  noiseless. 

4.  Permits  j^ou  to  make  neat  little  cubes  of  ice  for 
your  tumblers,  which  give  your  table  distinction. 

5.  Gives  you  ice  of  which  you  know  the  clean  source. 

6.  Operates  by  electricity. 

7.  Needs  no  refrigerant  for  years. 

8.  Is  oiled  very  seldom. 

9.  Is  easily  kept  clean. 

10.  Obviates  the  uncertain  ice  man  and  his  dirty 
boots  trailed  across  the  kitchen  floor. 

11.  There  is  no  ice-box  drain  to  clean,  no  water 
dripping  to  worry  about  and  therefore  no  extra  effort. 

12.  Consumes  from  IV2  to  2  kilowatt  hours  per  day 
— if  it  is  run  from  6  to  8  hours  per  day. 

The  purchaser  of  an  ice-making  refrigerator  or  a 
domestic  refrigerating  plant  should  be  warned  of  the 
following : 

1.  A  poor  refrigerator  will  mean  more  electricity  to 
keep  up  a  sufficiently  low  temperature. 

2.  Don't  let  a  manufacturer  tell  you  that  a  freezing 
refrigerant,  such  as  sulphur  dioxide,  will  escape  and 
corrode  the  pipes.  It  has  been  tested  out  and  in  the 
best  machines  has  neither  escaped  nor  worn  out  its 
pipings. 

3.  Remember  that  opening  and  closing  doors  raises 
the  temperature  even  in  the  magic  iceless  paradise, 
and  therefore  uses  more  electric  power  to  keep  the 
temperature  down. 

4.  The  best  machines  maintain  the  ideal  and  theoret- 
ical low  temperature. 

5.  Expect  service  from  the  manufacturer, 

6.  It  is  best  to  have  the  gas  air-cooled  and  not  water- 


118  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

cooled  because  the  introduction  of  water  makes  for 
the  confraternity  of  gas  and  water — a  troublesome 
mess. 

7.  Demand  the  temperature-controlling  automatic 
device  which  starts  the  refrigerating  when  the  tem- 
perature gets  up  around  39°,  and  cuts  it  off  when  the 
temperature  is  low  enough  to  do  its  work.     This  saves 
electricity  and  wear  and  tear  on  the  machine. 
Some  iceless  refrigerators  make  little  cubes  of  ice  by 
putting  trays  of  your  favorite  drinking  water  into  the 
brine  tank  compartments.     In  these  the  temperature 
ranges  from  20°  to  27°.    Desserts,  too,  can  be  frozen 
firmly  and  surely  when  placed  in  these  trays. 

The  brine  tank  fits  easily  into  the  ice  compartment  of 
the  well-made  refrigerator.  The  brine  tank,  compressor, 
condensor  and  pump  come  in  three  sizes,  corresponding 
to  an  efficiency  of  making  two  hundred,  three  hundred, 
four  hundred  pounds  of  ice  per  day.  Actually  these 
three  typical  sizes  of  refrigerators  can  only  store  ice  to 
the  amounts  of  one  hundred  and  fifty,  two  hundred  and 
three  hundred  pounds,  a  difference  being  allowed  for 
melting. 

The  condensor,  compressor  and  motor  of  some  types 
of  ice  machines  do  not  take  up  any  more  space  than 
that  of  30''X16"X18''  high.  This  can  be  installed  any- 
where. 

When  ordering  an  ice-maker  for  your  home  refrig- 
erator, it  is  well  to  measure  its  interior,  regardless  of  its 
compartments.  Get  the  width,  depth  and  height,  and 
multiply  them  together.  This  gives  the  cubical  contents 
and  the  manufacturer  can  then  estimate  as  to  the  cost 
and  size  plant  that  you  need. 

At  five  cents  per  kilowat  the  cost  per  day  of  running 
an  entire  kitchen  by  electricity  is  but  fifty  cents.  Com- 
pare this  to  the  cost  of  motoring  per  day. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

A  BURNING  QUESTION 

*  '  T    ET  me  see  jyour  back-yard  and  I  can  tell  you  what 

JLisort  of  a  housekeeper  you  are,"  said  a  sleuth  to 
a  friend.  But  we  would  add  ' '  and  your  method  of  garb- 
age disposal."  So  we  beg  your  attention  for  the  tale 
of  the  incinerator,  the  modern  and  comforting  Inferno, 
built  to  bring  heaven  (paradoxical  as  it  may  sound) 
into  your  home. 

The  incinerator,  to  be  sure,  is  one  of  the  last  comers 
to  domestic  economy.  To  most  homekeepers  it  has  not 
occurred  as  either  a  necessity  or  a  convenience ;  and  for 
that  reason  this  chapter  aims  to  introduce  the  house- 
holder to  the  garbage  incinerators. 

Once  upon  a  time  the  incinerator  was  made  to  connect 
with  the  kitchen  flue  and  fitted  into  the  stove  pipe. 
The  hot  air  was  thought  to  be  sufficient  to  evaporate  the 
moisture  of  the  garbage  after  the  housewife  had  evap- 
orated and  dried  it  out  as  much  as  possible.  This  had 
to  be  done  because  moisture  in  waste  is  the  deterring 
factor  in  its  combustion.  Then  after  this  stove-like 
incinerator  had  done  its  work,  the  dried  garbage  itself 
would  act  as  fuel. 

But  .  .  .  there  was  one  terrible  flaw  in  this  method 
and  that  was  the  fact  that  the  odors  and  gases  that  were 
given  off  were  not  only  unpleasant,  but  often  dan- 
gerous and  so  for  this  reason  this  method  has  pretty 
well  passed  out  of  existence. 

To  do  away  with  the  odor  and  the  gases  released  from 

119 


120  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

the  combustion  of  household  waste,  the  developing  incin- 
erator'has  been  created  and  flourishes  deservedly  among 
us. 

The  enthusiast  cannot  say  about  the  incinerator,  as 
he  can  say  about  substitutes  for  his  favorite  drinks  and 
foods:  "If  you  don't  have  one,  you  will  suffer  torture 
and  go  down  to  your  death  in  agonies  of  discontent." 
No,  he  cannot.  But  he  can  say  this,  "Although  you 
can  and  do  prosper  without  the  incinerator,  and 
although  consciously  you  do  need  one  in  most  cases, 
yet  when  you  once  own  and  use  one,  you  find  that  it 
brings  up  the  sanitary  condition  of  your  dwelling  at 
least  50%." 

In  brief,  it  means  doing  without  the  garbage  can 
which  breeds  odors,  gases  and  vermin.  It  means  doing 
without  the  garbage  carts  which  are  aesthetically,  alone, 
a  torture  to  say  nothing  of  the  menace  they  hold  in 
common  with  their  aide  the  garbage  can. 

Fly  Costs 

The  fly  costs  the  United  States  of  America,  it  is  esti- 
mated, about  350  million  dollars  a  year  because  of  its 
contaminating  influence  on  the  health  and  the  weal  of 
the  population.  It  is  alone  responsible  for  nearly  90% 
of  the  intestinal  and  typhoid  fever  cases.  The  answer 
to  this  must  be :  Every  one  must  fight  the  fly ;  and  the 
moral  of  that  is:  the  incinerator  is  one  way  of  getting 
rid  of  garbage  and  at  the  same  time  starving  out  the  fly. 

There  is  no  room  in  the  house  in  which  cleanliness  is 
so  important  as  in  the  kitchen;  therefore,  the  garbage 
can,  in  most  instances,  militates  against  its  absolute 
cleanliness.  To  be  sure,  there  is  one  good  can  on  the 
market  with  an  automatic  lid  which  is  raised  with  the 
foot  so  that  stooping  is  unnecessary.  One  touch  by  the 
foot  on  the  pedal  opens  the  can,  and  as  soon  as  the  foot 


A  BURNING  QUESTION  121 

is  taken  off  the  pedal,  the  lid  closes.  It  is  seambss  and 
finished  in  white  enamel.  But  even  this  can  is  hardly 
a  substitute  for  the  incinerator.  The  average  kitchen 
isn't  the  best  lighted  and  sunniest  room  in  the  house, 
and  what  is  often  left  in  the  garbage  can  (if  not  care- 
fully lined  with  new  paper  every  time  it  is  emptied) 
is  a  real  menace  to  health. 

If  you  live  in  the  country,  the  garbage  can  is  usually 
in  the  yard  and  tours  to  it  are  demanded  daily.  If  it  is 
cold,  it  is  a  hardship,  and  if  it  is  warm  it  is  a  hardship, 
too !  The  garbage  freezes  in  the  winter ;  it  decays  rap- 
idly in  the  summer,  and  there  is  always  the  worry  about 
its  collection.  If  it  is  kept  in  the  shed,  it  means  other 
sources  of  storage  and  worry,  so  whether  you  are  your 
own  help  or  whether  you  have  help,  garbage  disposal 
is  a  really  truly  problem. 

Now  to  the  device  to  obviate  the  immoral  fly,  extra 
steps,  unclean  kitchens,  and  worry,  the  thief  of  content. 

The  Incinerator 

The  incinerator,  besides  being  the  burner  of  garbage, 
is  a  garbage  container.  It  burns  garbage  without  smoke, 
noxious  gases  and  floating  inorganic  matter.  If  the 
stove  could  do  this,  the  incinerator  would  not  be  nec- 
essary, as  suggested  above.  But  it  can't,  especially  if 
it  be  a  gas  or  electric  stove.  Every  incinerator,  if  it  be 
any  good  at  all,  is  so  designed  as  not  only  to  burn  the 
waste  but  reburn  the  gases,  etc.,  before  the  products  of 
combustion  reach  the  outer  air. 

Every  manufacturer  will  tell  you  that  his  apparatus 
burns  without  smoke  or  odor.  This  you  will  do  weU  to 
prove  by  observing  one  in  operation,  staying  in  the 
building  in  which  it  is  being  used  and  also  whiffing  the 
air  a  few  doors  away. 

The  writer  knows  of  a  bank  which  was  severely  tried 


122  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

by  a  daily  recurring  odor  at  lunch  time.  The  authori- 
ties found  out  later  that  the  incinerator  of  a  neighbor- 
ing bank  was  playing  its  owner  false. 

There  is  no  use  in  describing  the  re-combustion  or 
re-burning  devices  of  the  good  incinerator,  but  it  is 
necessary  for  the  buyer  to  know  whether  the  re-burning 
is  accomplished  so  as  to  reduce  the  waste  to  clean  ash 
without  smoke,  noxious  odors,  and  the  rest. 

The  two  main  classes  of  incinerators  are,  (1)  those  that 
are  installed  in  the  cellar  and  there  burn  the  garbage, 
which  is  dropped  in  a  chute  through  a  hopper  installed 
by  the  sink  or  elsewhere  in  the  kitchen  (somewhat  the 
way  mail  is  dropped  into  the  mail  box  through  its  chute) 
and  (2)  the  incinerators  which  look  like  oblongly  high 
stoves  placed  in  a  recess  in  the  wall  or  against  the  wall 
in  the  kitchen  where  the  waste  is  stored  and  burned. 
The  cellar  incinerator  is  connected  with  the  kitchen,  etc., 
often  through  the  flue  and  the  waste  is  dropped  into  a 
little  hopper. 

Of  course,  the  installed  type  should,  if  possible,  be  put 
in  with  the  connivance  of  the  architect  before  the  house 
is  built  as  it  is  simpler  than  tearing  up  afterward.  This 
type,  of  course,  takes  up  less  actual  kitchen  space. 

Some  homes  use  a  large  incinerator  in  kitchens  (stove 
type  and  small  ones  in  pantry  or  laundry). 

Objects 

The  large  installed  incinerator  should  be  able  to  burn 
up  bits  of  paper,  sweepings,  old  boxes,  soiled  rags,  gar- 
bage, smelly  waste  and  reduce  them  to  sterile,  odorless, 
clean  ash.  And  if  these  things  are  not  done  without 
clogging  up  your  flues  with  oily  combustion  residues, 
etc.,  you  might  as  well  burn  your  stuff  in  the  kitchen 
stoves.     The  ash  lift  can  be  used  for  various  things. 


A  BURNING  QUESTION  123 

The  ordinary  portable  type  is  primarily  for  garbage 
but  some  get  away  with  whatever  is  put  in  them. 

Construction  Points 

In  the  construction  of  the  portable  incinerator,  the 
one  that  is  placed  in  the  room  and  not  below  stairs,  you 
must  be  sure  it  is  so  built  that  the  heat  from  burning 
is  not  communicated  to  the  room  to  heat  it  up.  This 
means  then  that  the  maker  must  think  of  supplying 
the  apparatus  with  sufficient  insulation  to  retain  the 
enormous  heat  generated  inside  which  is  somewhere 
around  1600  degrees  Fahrenheit.  Just  as  your  ice  box 
is  insulated  against  the  cold  air  getting  out,  and  the 
warm  air  getting  in,  so  must  your  incinerator  be  insu- 
lated. 

Besides,  the  lining  of  the  incinerator  must  be  durable 
and  made  to  withstand  not  only  the  heat  but  the  tremen- 
dous attack  on  it's  walls  of  chemical  substances  released 
in  combustion.  Sometimes  fire  brick  is  used  but  usually 
clay  or  metal  is  used  in  the  portable  types. 

Furthermore,  the  incinerator  becomes  a  fire  peril  if 
the  insulation  and  the  lining  is  not  100%  perfect. 

Again  the  devices  of  air  intakes  and  outlets,  etc., 
etc.,  are  questions  for  the  engineer.  All  that  we  are 
concerned  with,  is  whether  the  apparatus  does  its  work. 

Economy 

The  cost  of  operation  is  practically  nil.  The  fuel 
used  is  gas  or  coal.  Gas  is  the  best  method,  the  writer 
thinks.  It  takes  only  about  twenty  to  thirty  cubic  feet 
of  gas  per  burning,  as  the  gas  is  needed  only  to  start  the 
operation  and  the  evaporated  garbage  burns  itself  there- 
after.   Or  should!    There  is  a  type  of  portable  incin- 


124  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

erator  which  needs  no  fuel,  just  burns  by  ignition  of 
dry  waste  which  burns  the  wet  as  it  dries  out. 

Capacity 

The  incinerators  are  made  in  various  sizes,  burn  from 
one  bushel  of  waste  and  upwards,  depending  on  the  whys 
and  wherefores  of  its  uses — whether  it  is  the  installed 
type,  or  the  stove  type,  or  for  what  home  or  institution 
it  is  designed. 

The  stove  types  are  purchasable  in  sizes  ranging  from 
15  inches  (wide)  15  inches  deep  and  30  inches  high,  to 
respectively  31X34X64  inches,  and  they  range  in  price 
from  about  ^70.  and  upward.  (It  isn't  safe,  of  course, 
to  give  prices  to-day  on  anything  as  they  change 
continually.) 

Casing 

They  are  usually  built  of  very  heavy  serviceable  cast- 
ings, brass  and  sheet  steel,  well  lined  and  insulated. 
Everything  is  well  hinged  and  the  grates,  which  are 
removable,  are  made  so  as  to  be  easily  taken  out  when 
it  is  necessary  to  remove  the  ashes  or  substances  not 
burnable  except  in  smelters. 

Summary 

So  almost  in  conclusion  the  incinerator  is  sanitary, 
destroys  refuse,  destroj's  it  by  burning  not  only  the  gar- 
bage but  the  products  of  the  garbage  combustion  at  a 
minimum  expense,  and  it  should  sterilize  itself  and  the 
flue  in  the  process. 

And  it  does  away  forever  with  the  back  bending 
disposal  of  garbage  into  low  cans  for  the  openings  into 
which  the  garbage  is  put  are  high  and  comforting. 

However,  with  all  this  we  must  not  forget  that  gar- 


A  BURNING  QUESTION  125 

bage,  if  it  can  be  expeditiously  taken  off  the  premises 
at  once  and  easily,  is  an  immense  help  as  fertilizer  and 
food  for  pigs. 

But  it  must  have  fine  and  careful  care.  The  pits 
into  which  it  is  put  must  also  have  careful  structure  and 
care. 

To  the  surburbanite  the  incinerator  will  be  a  boon — • 
no  more  fussing  about  garbage  disposal  and  about  who 
is  going  to  collect  it. 

And  to  apartment  dwellers  (and  they  are  being  put 
in  apartments  rapidly)  no  more  elevator  and  dumb- 
waiter garbage  and  all  the  rest  of  the  garbage  nuisance. 

And  to  the  new  home  builder,  a  sense  of  the  disposal 
not  only  of  garbage  but  of  a  vexing  sanitary  problem. 

Furthermore,  because  you  have  an  incinerator,  it 
doesn't  mean  that  you  should  burn  up  good  left  overs. 
Never  burn  up  to-day  what  you  can  use  on  the  morrow, 
and  with  this  injunction  we  think  you  will  enjoy  looking 
into  the  subject  of  the  disposal  of  waste. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

AIR  AND  ITS  ENTRANCE  AND  EXIT 

'*  A    M  I  an  air  ess?  "  not  heiress,  ought  to  be  the 

l\  question  to  asb  yourself  if  you  are  really  a 
responsible  home  manager.  It  seems  strange  that  with 
all  the  air  to  be  had  for  the  asking  you  let  it  pass  you 
by,  content  with  whatever  draughts  and  gusts  filter 
through  the  cracks  and  crevices  of  your  house. 

Now  it  so  happens  that  although  air  is  to  be  had  for 
the  asking,  you  have  to  woo  it  if  you  want  it.  But  it 
pays.  Keep  the  air  about  you  in  good  condition  and 
you  and  all  those  of  your  household  will  soon  find  your- 
selves approaching  the  100%  efficiency  ideal. 

Business  has  found  this  out  already.  Do  you  know 
of  anjy  factory,  good  school,  bank  or  department  store, 
where  there  is  not  installed  some  sort  of  ventilation 
apparatus  including  weather  strips  as  well?  Of  course 
not.  Why?  Because  fresh  air  keeps  costs  down  and 
keeps  health  up.  On  this  relation  of  health  and  out- 
put, efficiency  depends. 

Does  it  not  flash  into  your  mind  now  that  if  house- 
wives thought  more  of  home  ventilation  and  especially 
kitchen  ventilation,  you  might  have  improved  service, 
better  tempered  cooks,  and  more  satisfactory  life  in 
general ? 

Of  late  there  are  cults  of  out-door  fiends.  All  kinds 
of  cold-attracting,  pneumonia-coddling  out-door  fa- 
natics, who  try  to  tell  you  it  is  good  to  sleep  in  draughts, 
to  have  sold  feet,  and  the  like.     Their  advice  is  wrong. 

126 


AIR  AND  ITS  ENTRANCE  AND  EXIT     127 

The  tiling  to  do  is  not  to  subject  yourself  to  the  rigours 
of  cold,  but  to  approximate,  in  your  warm,  com- 
fortable rooms,  the  sweet  clean  purity  of  out  of  doors. 
And  this  is  easy  to  do  by  proper  ventilation. 

Ventilation  can  render  air  even  better  than  the  out- 
door variety  by  purifying  it  of  dust  and  by  supplying 
it  with  the  right  amount  of  moisture  and  motion. 

For  the  ordinary  home  the  great  air  conditioners  and 
ozonators,  which  are  installed  in  institutions  and  fac- 
tories, are  unnecessary,  so  we  will  not  consider  them. 
The  best,  simplest  and  least  expensive  ventilating  sys- 
tem for  the  home  is  the  system  regulated  by  fans  and 
blowers,  and  to  this  method  we  will  introduce  ourselves. 

Now,  it  is  conceded  by  ventilating  and  heating  engi- 
neers that  the  air,  to  be  healthful,  must  be  in  ceaseless 
motion,  and  it  must  be  renewed  constantly  and  evenly. 
In  other  words,  it  doesn't  make  much  difference  if  the 
air  is  burdened  with  carbon  dioxide  gas  which  we  exhale 
from  our  lungs,  as  it  does  if  the  air  is  stationary.  Hence 
the  use  of  air  agitators  such  as  fans,  etc.  The  theory 
is  that,  as  the  pores  of  our  skin  exude  moisture,  the  body 
is  comforted  and  cooled  by  its  evaporation  which  is 
effected  more  readily  by  constantly  moving  air.  Moving 
air,  however,  does  not  mean  a  draught. 

In  the  ideally  warmed  house,  the  doors  and  windows 
are  nicely  placed  so  that  the  warm  air  gracefully  exits 
from  the  top  of  the  room  and  the  cold  air  comes  in 
from  the  lower  parts  of  the  room  (such  as  lower  win- 
dows or  well-placed  air  takers.)  Thus,  the  air  is  moving 
nicely  without  the  least  draught. 

So  it  will  in  the  use  of  the  fan  and  blower  types  of 
apparatus  on  the  market.  But  before  we  go  on  to 
describe  them,  it  will  be  well  for  us  to  review  some  of 
the  reasons  why  humans  need  special  air  treatments. 

It  is  said  by  scientists  that: 


128 


CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


A  Woman 

exhales  600 

cubic 

feet 

of  carbon 

dioxide  per 

hour. 

A  Young  Man 

exhales  614 

A  Young  Woman    "      453 

A  Boy 

"      363 

A  Girl 

"      343 

Whereas  women  don't  breathe  so  much  of  what  is 
noxious  yet  they  have  to  look  after  their  men  folk! 
But  joking  aside,  doesn't  this  impress  you  with  the  fool- 
ishness of  inhaling  so  much  vitiated  air  when  the  supply 
can  be  renewed  so  easily  with  fresh  air  ?  Also  when  you 
realize  that  humans  give  off  1000  grams  of  water  vapor 
under  normal  conditions  per  hour,  and  emit  350  British 
Thermal  Units  per  hour.  (A,  B.  T.  U.  is  the  amount 
of  heat  which  will  raise  1  pound  of  water  1°  Fahrenheit 
or  from  32°  thru  33°  of  heat — at  normal,  not  heavy 
work.) 

Another  authority  says  that  air  should  be  renewed 
per  hour: 

10  times  for  public  toilet  rooms. 


6     " 

"    clothes  lockers. 

4     '* 

**    small  meeting  rooms. 

5     *' 

'*    public  offices. 

4     " 

"    ball  rooms. 

15     " 

* '    kitchens. 

20     '' 

* '    laundries. 

3     " 

*  *    libraries. 

The  average  air  change  in  the  average  room  is  one 
to  two  times  per  hour.  In  the  well-built  house  it  is 
two  to  three — due  to  fire-places,  windows,  doors,  etc. 

Of  course  there  are  other  opinions,  but  this  data  gives 
you  an  idea  of  the  necessity  of  changing  old  for  new 
air. 


AIR  AND  ITS  ENTRANCE  AND  EXIT     131 


Good  Ventilation 

The  requisites  then  for  good  ventilation  are : 

1.  Equable  temperature  from  about  60  to  65 
degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  the  moderate  relative  humid- 
ity or  moisture  of  45  to  65  per  cent.  In  order  to  keep 
the  room  moist  in  winter  it  is  well  to  keep  a  pan  of 
water  on  the  radiator.  Regular  humidifyers  can  be 
bbught  for  this  purpose. 

2.  Clear  air,  free  from  impurities  such  as  dust, 
insects,  oily  vapors,  soot,  etc. 

3.  Odorless  air  (you  have  been  sickened  by  the  use 
even  of  the  most  costly  of  perfumes!)  free  from 
gases  and  vapors, 

4.  Air  motion;  but  the  motion  must  be  accom- 
plished without  those  objectionable  blasts  of  wind  that 
so  frequently  startle  you  in  some  houses  which  are 
supposed  to  have  the  most  up  to  date  equipment. 
The  wea,ther  strip  is  insurance  against  the  gale. 

Air  isn't  a  mysterious  chemical  combination.  It  is 
a  mechanical  mixture  of  21  parts  nitrogen,  79  parts  of 
oxygen,  from  0  to  4?%  of  moisture,  and  usually  4  parts 
of  carbon  dioxide  gas  per  10,000  parts  of  air,  so  it  need 
not  distress  you  to  effect  a  good  clean  supply  of  air  and 
equip  your  house  with  some  of  the  steadily  improving 
devices  now  on  the  market. 

Some  Devices 

Any  device  to  be  useful  to  the  home  must,  of  course, 
be  convenient,  economical,  safe  to  operate,  and  durable. 

Well,  let's  begin  with  the  kitchen;  for  this  ventila- 
tion is  more  necessary  than  any  place  else  in  the  house. 

Not  only  is  it  difficult  to  keep  the  kitchen  in  equable 
temperature,  but  to  have  it  cool  often  means  a  draft,  and 


132  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

a  draft  means  a  cold  for  the  cook,  and  a  cold  for  the 
cook  means  danger  to  the  whole  household.  Then  there 
are  odors  from  the  kitchen.  These  are  continually  get- 
ting loose,  unless  the  door  of  the  kitchen  is  kept  closed 
(which  is  trying)  and  infecting  the  house  prematurely 
with  the  taste  of  dinner.  AU  of  which  is  uncomfortable 
and  gives  the  home  a  commonplace,  tenementy  atmos- 
phere. Your  home  may  be  judged  %  its  laundry  and 
cooking  odors!  The  fewer,  the  better.  Did  you  ever 
think  of  that  ? 

The  cellar  is  another  important  room  to  keep 
well  aired  and  should  be  provided  with  windows  and 
doors  to  formulate  a  current  of  air.  Pantry  and  laun- 
dry, too,  should  be  built  with  ventilation  in  view  in 
order  that,  as  in  the  kitchen,  these  rooms  can  be  kept 
sweet  and  savory. 

Without  extra  ventilation  apparatus,  you  can  take 
advantage  of  the  movement  of  air;  as  it  cools,  it  falls 
and  as  this  falls  it  is  heated  and  rises  again — keeping 
up  a  rotary  circulation: 

1.  Lower  windows  from  top  and  bottom  so  that  the 
warm  air  will  go  out  at  the  top  and  the  cold  air 
come  in  at  bottom,  starting  the  circulation  of  air. 

2.  If  not  too  draughty,  have  a  door  open  opposite  the 
windows,  or  use  a  draught  board  or  screen  which 
can  be  easily  placed  on  window  sill  to  curb 
current. 

3.  Cool  moist  air  can  be  had  often  by  hanging  up  a 
damp  sheet  and  re-wetting  it  as  it  dries. 

4.  Fireplaces  with  small  or  large  fires  in  them  cause 
air  current. 

5.  In  some  rooms  which  have  a  grated  air  intake  cut 
into  the  walls  near  radiator — air  circulation  is 
effected  easily. 

G.  Give  the  risen  hot  air  a  chance  to  get  out  of  the  top 


AIR  AND  ITS  ENTRANCE  AND  EXIT     133 

of  room,  and  give  the  cold  air  a  chance  to  come  in  at 
the  bottom  of  room — and  keep  it  agitated — this  is 
about  the  best  advice.  If  you  can't  do  this,  call  in 
a  ventilating  and  heating  engineer — he  will. 

With  the  new  tj^pe  of  ventilators,  cookery  odors, 
draughts,  smoke,  steamy  vapors,  smudges  collecting  over 
walls,  curtains,  etc.,  are  obviated  because  they  are  all 
dissipated  and  sent  flying  to  the  big  outdoors.  It's 
blowers  blow  out  the  bad  air.  The  apparatus,  which  is 
simplicity  itself  to  operate,  is  attached  to  the  ordinary 
lamp  socket  and  placed  in  effective  places.  The  im- 
proved motors  are  encased  and  almost  frictionless  in 
action,  which  means  the  minimum  wear  and  tear  and  no 
cost  for  repairs.  Some  of  the  motors  are  self  cooled 
which  also  does  away  with  wear  and  hot  boxes. 

There  are  various  kinds  of  fans  which  may  be  used. 
Those  which  change  their  direction  in  process  of  revolu- 
tion are  good.  Some  think  they  are  better  than  the 
one-direction  fan,  and  maybe,  where  the  fan  is  used 
alone  without  other  attachments  such  as  purifiers  and 
blowers,  this  style  may  be  more  efficient.  It  at  least 
does  the  work  more  swiftly.  But  whatever  kind  you 
use,  they  should  be  so  placed  as  not  to  make  draughts. 
The  steady  movement  of  air  is  the  only  thing  necessary, 
not  hurricanes. 

In  the  study  it  is  necessary  to  have  light  and  air  and 
no  draughts  to  blow  papers  away.  The  ventilator 
(which  may  be  put  on  the  window  sill  over  the  radia- 
tor thus  obviating  the  uncertain  winds  coming  crassly 
through  the  open  window)  will  prove  a  boon  to  the 
writer  or  housewife. 

Oh,  Homekeepers,  it  is  often  that  these  office  devices 
which  are  always  employed  where  work  is  done,  if  in- 
stalled at  home,  would  keep  your  men  folk  and  even 
your  women  office  workers  happy.    You  would  be  sur- 


134  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

prised  how  many  people  would  come  home  to  do 
after-hour  work  if  the  home  were  as  ofl&ce-shape  as 
business  places.  And  the  ventilator  is  a  very  good 
point  at  which  to  start. 

It  is  nice  to  think  that  along  with  ice  cream,  the 
steam  boat,  and  other  American  inventions,  applied 
ventilation  seems  to  be  an  almost  pure  American  prod- 
uct! So,  you  patriots,  here  is  a  way  to  build  real  air 
castles  that  will  build  finer  and  finer  things  as  you  profit 
by  the  stimulus  which  fresh  air,  more  than  any  one 
commodity  in  the  universe,  can  give. 

Weather  Strips  as  Aid  in  Ventilation 

No  consideration  of  ventilation  of  houses  could  be 
complete  without  a  few  words  on  the  value  of  weather 
strips.  It  is  strange  too  that  this  percaution  in  the 
home  is  so  little  known  and  that  the  house-wife  has  so 
little  knowledge  of  their  infinite  good. 

Disregarding  them  as  a  factor  in  the  cleanliness  and 
noiselessness  of  the  home,  disregarding  in  this  chapter 
the  intriguing  facts  of  their  manufacture  and  applica- 
tion, they  are  adjunct  at  their  best  in  the  home  because: 

They  reduce  the  possibilities  of  draughts  and  there- 
fore reduce  the  possibilities  of  colds  and  rheumatism 
and  the  like.     See  Chapter  XXXIII. 

They  keep  the  temperature  of  all  the  rooms  as  even 
as  it  is  possible  here  below  to  keep  anything  even  and 
therefore  give  the  ventilating  regime  a  square  chance 
to  function  well. 

In  keeping  welcome  air  in  and  unwelcome  air  out, 
in  so  far  as  is  necessary,  the  reduction  of  fuel  bills  is 
enormous  .  .  .  from  15  to  50% !  This  to-day  is  a 
favorable  asset  when  fuel  is  expensive. 

"With  all  the  systems  of  ventilating  in  the  world,  if 
you  have  tornadoes  flying  about  your  floors  from  the 


AIR  AND  ITS  ENTRANCE  AND  EXIT     135 

air  you  do  not  wish  admitted,  you  cannot  have  a  prop- 
erly or  healthfully  ventilated  home. 

In  short,  the  weather  strip  makes  it  possible  for  you 
to  have  your  say  as  to  the  air  that  comes  in  and  out  and 
makes  it  possible  for  your  heating  and  ventilating  sys- 
tems to  work  as  they  should.  The  hit  or  miss  element 
in  the  home  is  again  routed  by  the  weatherstrip  and  any- 
thing that  does  this  is  worth  considering. 


CHAPTER  XV 

THE  PLUMBING  IN  TOUR  KITCHEN 

ONCE  upon  a  time  there  was  a  business  man  who, 
upon  buying  his  first  house,  bought  simultaneously 
a  plumber's  kit.  He  was  sure  he  could  save  a  lot  of 
money  by  attending  to  simple  matters  himself.  One 
day  a  simple  faucet  sprung  a  simple  leak.  He  confi- 
dently used  a  complicated  tool  and  the  result  was  a  vast 
sea  of  trouble.  Plumbers!  Expense!  It  is  not  neces- 
sary to  draw  the  moral. 

The  plumbing  in  the  house  is  akin  to  the  alimentary 
canal  in  the  human  body,  and  is  as  complicated  a  system 
as  the  alimentary  canal.  The  system  of  plumbing  in 
the  house  is  a  series  of  pipes  which  carries  water  to  the 
house,  and  eliminates  it  as  it  carries  with  it  various 
forms  of  waste,  connecting  the  house  with  the  main 
sources  of  water,  gas  and  with  the  sewage  system.  The 
best  plumbing  is  that  which  effects  these  things  with 
the  least  deterioration  and  with  the  least  mixture  of 
sewer  gas  and  foreign  matter. 

Every  community  has  its  own  plumbing  laws  and 
regulations.  This  is  true  unless  you  build  in  very 
rural  sections  where  there  is  no  sewage  system.  How- 
ever, this  article  will  deal  only  with  conditions  in  which 
a  sewage  system  prevails. 

Plumbing  Laws 

As  will  be  seen  by  the  following  excerpts  from  the 
plumbing  laws  of  New  York  City,  the  ordinary  house- 

136 


THE  PLUMBING  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     137 

wife  need  not  worry  about  transgressing  the  law,  as 
everything,  from  the  material  used  to  the  size  of  it 
and  the  lajying  of  it,  is  controlled.  And  the  plumber  is 
supposed  to  know  these  rules  before  he  is  licensed.  But 
it  is  in  no  way  as  glorious  as  poetic  license ! 

All  the  materials  must  be  of  the  best  quality,  free 
from  defects,  and  all  work  must  be  executed  in  a 
thorough,  workmanlike  manner. 

All  cast-iron  pipes  and  fittings  must  be  uncoated, 
sound,  cylindrical  and  smooth,  free  from  cracks,  sand 
holes  and  other  defects,  and  of  uniform  thickness,  and 
of  the  grade  known  in  commerce  as  "extra  heavy." 

The  size,  weight  and  maker's  name  must  be  cast  on 
each  length  of  pipe. 

All  joints  must  be  made  with  picked  okum  and  molten 
lead  and  be  made  gas-tight.  Twelve  ounces  of  fine,  soft 
pig  lead  must  be  used  at  each  joint  for  each  inch  in 
the  diameter  of  the  pipe. 

All  wrought  iron  and  steel  pipes  must  be  equal  in 
quality  to  "standard"  and  must  be  properly  tested  by 
the  manufacturer.  All  pipe  must  be  lap-welded.  No 
plain  black  or  uncoated  pipe  will  be  permitted. 

Each  building  must  be  separately  and  independently 
connected  with  a  public  or  private  sewer,  or  cesspool,  ex- 
cept where  a  building  is  located  in  the  rear  of  the  same 
lot  with  another  building,  when  its  plumbing  and  drain- 
age system  may  be  connected  to  the  house-drain  of  the 
front  building  behind  the  house  trap  and  fresh  air  inlet 
which  shall  be  used  for  both  buildings  if  sewer  con- 
nected; or  may  be  connected  to  an  existing  cesspool  of 
front  house  and  be  provided  with  a  separate  house  trap 
and  fresh  air  inlet. 


138  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


Further  Provision 

Where  there  is  no  sewer  in  the  street  or  avenue, 
and  it  is  possible  to  construct  a  private  sewer  to  connect 
in  an  adjacent  street  or  avenue,  a  private  sewer  must 
be  constructed.  It  must  be  laid  outside  the  curb,  under 
the  roadway  of  the  street. 

All  pipes  and  traps  should,  where  possible,  be 
exposed  to  view.  They  should  always  be  readily  acces- 
sible for  inspection  and  repairing. 

In  every  building  where  there  is  a  leader  connected 
to  the  drain,  if  there  are  any  plumbing  fixtures,  there 
must  be  at  least  one  4"  pipe  extended  above  the  roof  for 
ventilation. 

The  contents  of  settling  chamber  or  dust  receptacle 
for  vacuum  cleaners  may  be  discharged  into  a  plumbing 
and  drainage  system. 

Leaders  must  be  trapped  with  cast-iron  running  traps 
so  placed  as  to  prevent  freezing. 

Rain-water  leaders  must  not  be  used  as  soil,  waste  or 
vent  pipes,  nor  shall  any  such  pipe  be  used  as  a  leader. 

To  have  an  intelligent  understanding  of  what  the 
plumber  has  to  know,  it  might  be  weU  to  know  what 
certain  terms  are  which  are  used  in  the  plumbing  rules. 

Definitions 

The  term  "private  sewer"  is  applied  to  main  sewers 
that  are  not  constructed  by  and  under  the  supervision 
of  the  Department  of  Public  Works. 

The  term  "house  sewer"  is  applied  to  that  part  of 
the  main  drain  or  sewer  extending  from  a  point  two  feet 
outside  of  the  outer  front  wall  of  the  building,  vault 
or  area  to  its  connection  with  public  sewer,  private 
sewer  or  cesspool. 


THE  PLUMBING  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     139 

The  term  ' '  house  drain ' '  is  applied  to  that  part  of  the 
main  horizontal  drain  and  its  branches  inside  the  walls 
of  the  building,  vault  or  area  and  extending  to  and 
connecting  with  the  house  sewer. 

The  term  "soil  line"  is  applied  to  any  vertical  line  of 
pipe  having  outlets  above  the  floor  of  first  story  for 
water  closet  connections. 

The  term  ' '  waste  line ' '  is  applied  to  any  vertical  line 
of  pipe  having  outlets  above  the  first  floor  for  fixtures 
other  than  water  closet. 

The  term  "vent  pipe"  is  applied  to  any  special  pipe 
provided  to  ventilate  the  system  of  piping  and  to  pre- 
vent trap  siphonage  and  back  pressure. 

The  Trap 

Most  important  from  the  hygiene  point  of  view  is  the 
trap,  which  is  a  curved  pipe  permitting  the  last  of  a 
flow  of  water  to  remain  in  the  pipe  to  prevent  a  back 
flow  of  sewage  gas  into  the  house.  There  are  for  use 
various  forms  of  traps  under  different  circumstances 
which,  of  course,  are  entirely  the  plumber's  business. 

In  hotels  and  large  institutions,  and  in  some  large 
homes,  a  grease  trap  is  built  in  the  sink  which  is  so 
constructed  as  to  separate  the  grease  from  the  water, 
which  obviates  clogging  of  the  pipes  and  which  amasses 
the  grease  which  is  sold  to  soap  makers  for  soap. 

Fresh  Air  Inx^ts  and  Main  Traps 

Fresh  air  inlets  and  main  traps  are  also  for  the  pre- 
vention of  odors  and  gases  coming  directly  from  the 
sewer.  The  entrance  of  these  gases  often  takes  place, 
even  though  the  plumbing  is  excellent,  by  the  settling 
of  the  floors  and  foundation  rendering  the  soil  pipes 
defective. 


140  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

The  question  of  soil  pipes,  etc.,  is  sufficiently  covered 
by  the  plumbing  regulations  so  far  as  not  to  need  any 
explanations  here. 

Every  sink,  of  course,  must  have  its  own  trap. 

The  following  are  a  few  excerpts  from  the  law: 

Sewers,  Drains  and  Traps 

must  be  of  extra  heavy  cast-iron.  When  found  in  a  lealqy 
or  defective  condition,  shall  not  be  repaired  or  replaced 
except  with  heavy  cast-iron  pipe. 

The  house  drain  and  its  branches  must  be  of  extra 
heavy  cast-iron  when  underground,  and  of  extra  heavy 
cast-iron  or  galvanized  wrought  iron  or  steel  when  above 
ground. 

The  house-drain  must  properly  connect  with  the  house 
sewer  at  a  point  two  feet  outside  of  the  outer  front 
vault  or  area  wall  of  the  building.  An  arched  or  other 
proper  opening  must  be  provided  for  the  drain  in  the 
wall  to  prevent  damage  by  settlement. 

No  steam-exhaust,  boiler  blow-off  or  drip-pipe  shall 
be  connected  with  the  house-drain.  Such  pipes  must 
first  discharge  into  a  proper  condensing  tank,  and  from 
this  a  proper  outlet  to  the  house  sewer  outside  of  the 
building  must  be  provided.  In  low  pressure  steam 
systems  the  condensing  tank  may  be  omitted,  but  the 
waste  connections  must  be  otherwise  as  above  required. 

Soil  and  Waste  Lines 

All  main,  soil,  waste  or  vent  pipes  must  be  of 
iron,  steel  or  brass. 

Soil  and  waste  pipes  must  have  proper  Y  or  TY 
branches  for  all  fixture  connections. 

The  diameters  of  soil  and  waste  pipes  must  not  be 
less  than  those  given  in  the  following  table : 


THE  PLUMBING  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     141 

Main   soil  stacks 4" 

Main  waste  stacks 2" 

Branch  wastes  for  slop  sinks 3" 

Branch  waste  for  kitchen  sinks 2" 

Vent  Pipes 

AU  vent  pipe  lines  and  main  branches  must  be  of  iron, 
steel  or  brass.  They  must  be  increased  in  diameter  and 
extended  above  the  roof  as  required  for  waste-pipes. 
They  may  be  connected  with  the  adjoining  soil  or  waste 
line  well  above  the  highest  fixture,  but  this  will  not  be 
permitted  when  there  are  fixtures  on  more  than  six 
floors. 

Branch  vent  pipes  shall  be  kept  above  the  top  of  all 
connecting  fixtures,  so  as  to  prevent  the  use  of  vent 
pipes  as  soil  pipes  or  waste-pipes.  Branch  vent  pipes 
should  be  connected  not  less  than  six  inches  nor  more 
than  two  feet  from  crown  of  trap  or  side  of  lead  bend. 

No  form  of  trap  will  be  permitted  to  be  used  unless 
it  has  been  approved  by  the  Superintendent  of  Build- 
ings or  the  Board  of  Standards  and  Appeals. 

No  anti-siphon  trap  or  deep-seal  siphon-jet  fixture 
shall  be  approved  until  it  has  successfully  passed  such 
test  as  may  be  prescribed  by  the  Board  of  Standards 
and  Appeals. 

A  set  of  not  more  than  three  wash  trays  may  connect 
with  a  single  trap,  or  onto  the  trap  of  an  adjoining  sink, 
provided  both  sink  and  tub  waste  outlets  are  on  the 
same  side  of  the  waste  line,  and  the  sink  is  nearest 
the  line.  When  so  connected,  the  waste-pipe  from  the 
washtrays  must  be  branched  in  below  the  water- 
seal. 

The  sizes  for  traps  must  not  be  less  than  those  given 
in  the  following  table: 


142  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Traps  for  slop  sinks 3''  in  diameter 

Traps  for  kitchen  sinks 2"  in  diameter 

Traps  for  wash-trays 2"  in  diameter 

Now,  of  course,  all  the  foregoing  relates  to  the  whole 
house  as  well  as  to  the  kitchen.  But,  as  the  kitchen 
sanitary  conditions  depend  upon  the  same  regimen, 
the  foregoing  is  a  basis  for  kitchen  usage. 

The  kitchen  is  mainly  concerned  with  the  water  supply 
and  water  waste,  which  is  the  result  of  cooking,  washing, 
cleaning,  and  storage  (refrigerator). 

Sinks  and  Connections 

The  entry  of  water  to  the  kitchen  is  effective 
through  faucets,  for  the  most  part,  in  some  sort  of  a 
sink.  What  then  should  these  sinks  be,  and  what  should 
be  the  nature  of  their  connections  ?  For  the  most  part, 
the  building  law  will  take  care  of  the  connections,  but 
you  should  see  to  it  that  the  traps  are  below  the  sinks 
and  are  in  plain  sight,  and  that  the  materials  used,  for 
your  own  good,  should  not  only  be  within  the  law,  but 
a  little  above  it.  Another  thing  you  must  remember,  in 
ordering  sinks,  is  that  they  should  be  smooth,  in  one 
piece  if  possible,  having  a  seamless  interior,  non-absorb- 
ent, non-rusting,  and  with  a  certain  amount  of  elasticity, 
so  that  when  hit  by  sharp  and  heavy  utensils,  neither 
the  utensil  nor  the  sink  is  cracked  or  injured  by  the 
impact. 

The  materials  to  be  used  in  the  making  of  sinks  are 
tin,  wood,  soap-stone,  galvanized  iron,  slate,  copper, 
enamel,  enamel  over  iron,  a  porcelain-like  material  over 
metal,  and  solid  porcelain.  Stone  and  slate  are  poor  be- 
cause they  are  too  absorbent.  Wood  is  bad  for  the  same 
reason.     Tin   rusts,   copper  is  difficult  to  keep   clean 


THE  PLUMBING  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     143 

and  is  rarely  used  for  anything  but  pantry  sinks. 
Enamel  over  iron  is  excellent,  porcelain  over  iron  is 
better,  solid  porcelain  is  regal  but  has  the  disadvantage 
of  having  so  little  resiliency  that  dishes  are  apt  to  break 
when  coming  too  effectively  in  contact  with  it.  This  is 
often  obviated  in  the  pantry  by  enclosing  the  pantry 
sink  in  a  wooden  casing.  The  surface  of  good  porcelain 
over  metal  will  not  scratch. 

Second  Grades 

Solid  porcelain  sinks  are  all  made  from  the  same 
material,  yet  the  action  of  fire  affects  some  differently 
from  others.  For  instance,  a  workman  may  fail  to  work 
out  of  the  wet  mould  a  bit  of  air  in  the  clay,  and  when 
this  piece  is  fired  in  the  kiln  the  air  condenses  and  bursts 
out  and  the  result  is  a  slight  streak;  or  a  bit  of  copper 
may  get  into  the  clay  causing  a  green  stain  on  the  piece. 
When  such  things  occur,  it  does  not  alter  the  value 
of  the  sink,  but  the  high  grade  manufacturer  marks 
these  '  *  second  grade. ' '  This  is  well  for  you  to  know  as 
it  really  does  not  effect  the  lasting  qualities  and  prob- 
ably the  initial  cost  is  lower.  The  shallower  a  sink  is 
the  easier,  of  course,  it  is  to  take  care  of. 

The  general  run  of  sinks  has  the  metal  base  with 
a  porcelain-like  covering,  as  they  are  elastic  and  are  kind 
to  falling  china.  However,  you  cannot  go  wrong  in 
buying  any  of  the  enameled,  or  porcelain  over  iron,  or 
the  solid  porcelain,  bought  from  the  well-equipped,  long 
established  manufacturies.  There  is  one  firm  which 
makes  a  superb  solid  porcelain  sink  in  thirteen  varieties, 
including  two  vitreous  (porcelain  over  metal)  slop 
sinks.  When  you  think  of  one  firm  making  so  many 
varieties,  and  a  few  other  firms  making  almost  as  many, 
it  soon  becomes  necessary  for  the  domiologists  to  know 


144  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

what  to  tell  a  plumber  to  install,  before  the  masculine 
mind  installs  something  for  which  you  will  have  little 
use.  Of  course,  it  depends  first  on  what  the  sink  is  to  be 
used  for.  In  large  kitchens,  the  pot  sink,  vegetable 
sink,  and  slop  sink  are  used,  sometimes  two  of  some  of 
these  varieties.  In  the  medium  kitchen,  the  pot  sink  and 
one  of  the  others.  In  the  small  kitchen,  just  the  ordi- 
nary pot  sink  is  used. 

Do  not  buy  an  all-roll  sink;  that  is,  a  sink  with  a 
curved  rim  and  no  back,  unless  your  kitchen  has  a  tiled 
wall.  Why  ?  Because  your  wall  will  be  splashed  to  the 
destruction  point. 

Very  commodious  sinks  measure  5'  2"  over-all,  back 
9"  high,  wall  to  front,  26I/2".  This  size  sink  is  often  in 
two  divisions,  one  for  washing,  and  one  for  rinsing,  and 
has  integral  drain  boards  (of  self  material  as  part  of 
the  sink).  If  the  integral  drain  board  is  not  of  wood  or 
metal,  it  can  be  rendered  kindlier  to  china  by  a  rubber 
mat.  Some  sinks  have  a  5 '2"  back,  some  just  have  a  por- 
celain back  behind  the  faucets. 

A  small  sink  a  little  over  3'  can  be  had  with  or  with- 
out integral  drain  boards  on  either  side,  and  a  vent  at 
the  right  end,  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  dishes. 

Speaking  of  drain  boards,  it  is  very  often  expedient  to 
have  them  hinged  to  the  wall,  or  so  attached  to  the  sink 
that  they  can  be  let  down  and  out  of  the  way. 

Patented  Materials 

Sinks  of  patented  materials,  with  trade  names,  which 
are  often  metals  with  a  porcelain-like  covering,  also 
come  in  many  sizes  and  in  many  designs,  and  are,  as 
inferred  above,  quite  as  valuable  in  usefulness  and 
beauty  as  solid  porcelain,  with  one  exception,  of  course, 
that  under  some  remote  circumstance  a  chipping  off 
of  the  material  may  occur.    But  the  makers  of  solid 


THE  PLUMBING  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     145 

porcelain  sinks  make  a  metal-coated  slop  sink  where  an 
extra  heavy  thudding,  by  pails  and  cleaning  instru- 
ments, is  apt  to  occur.  This  precaution  speaks  for  itself. 
The  solid  porcelain  certainly  gives  you  a  feeling  that 
3'ou  have  the  best,  yet  some  of  the  greatest  houses  in  the 
country  use  the  other  types  of  sinks. 

Although  we  have  touched  upon  the  subject  of  drain 
boards,  there  are  few  more  words  to  say  about  them. 

The  sink  with  a  double  drain  board  is,  of  course,  the 
most  convenient,  but  this  is  not  always  possible.  They 
are  made  of  metal,  such  as  copper  and  zinc,  and  also 
of  wood,  either  oak  or  ash,  preferably  ground  ash,  hard 
enough  to  prevent  absorption.  Sometimes  they  are  of 
metal  over  wood.  The  porcelain  drain  board  is  easiest 
of  all  to  clean,  requiring  only  a  moist  cloth  passed  over 
the  porcelain  or  metal  under  porcelain,  while  the  others 
need  scouring  and  scraping.  The  grooves  in  any  of 
these  boards  must  not  be  so  deep  as  to  require  digging 
to  remove  lost  particles.  Slost  pantry  sinks  have  the 
wooden  drain  boards  and  the  wooden  enclosed  solid 
porcelain  sinks,  just  to  save  breakage.  "Boards,"  of 
course,  should  always  be  slightly  tilted  toward  the  sink. 

It  is  wiser  to  have  sinks  36''  high,  or  have  them  on 
adjustable  standards. 

If  36"  happens  to  be  too  high,  a  long  wooden  step  can 
be  j?rovided.  It  is  better  to  step  up  than  to  form  a 
crick  in  one's  back. 

However,  any  plumber  will  alter  the  standards,  no 
matter  what  sink  you  buy.  Sinks  are  purchasable 
with  from  one  to  four  standards,  depending  upon  what 
space  in  the  kitchen  is  to  harbor  said  sink. 

The  standards  of  sinks  are  made  of  glass,  brass,  nickle 
plate,  or  porcelain,  or  a  porcelain  coating  over  metal. 
Some  of  these  standards  are  supplied  with  adjustable 
bracelets,  making  it  possible  to  raise  and  lower  the  sink 


146  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

to  desired  levels.  The  nickle  standard  is  very  desirable, 
as  is  the  brass,  but  they  require  cleaning  and  polishing. 
The  glass  and  porcelain  families  need  just  to  be  rubbed 
down  with  a  moist  cloth. 

Slop  sinks  are  made  to  set  lower  than  other  sinks  in 
order  to  obviate  lifting  up  heavy  pails  of  water,  etc. 

Outlets 

The  question  of  outlets  in  the  sink  is  simple.  The 
outlet  should  not  be  perforated  so  minutely  as  to  pre- 
vent rapid  exit  of  the  water,  and  yet  the  holes  must  not 
be  large  enough  to  permit  foreign  matter  to  clog  the 
pipes  of  the  plumbing  system.  Very  often  it  is  wise  to 
have  a  wire  net  over  the  outlet.  Some  sinks  are  equipped 
with  stoppers  and  with  cylindrical  outlets  familiar 
in  wash  basins  and  bath  tubs.  In  these  sinks  the  water 
is  kept  in  until  it  is  time  to  release  it,  obviating  the 
necessity  of  wash  basins.  Sunken  outlets  are  a  nuisance 
to  keep  clean. 

Faucets  * 

Faucets  are  usually  of  metal,  and  high  priced  ones 
are  of  enamel.  Some  sinks  have  two  sets  of  faucets,  two 
in  each  set.  Some  have  a  higher  faucet,  a  goose  neck 
pattern,  for  filling  carafes.  The  metal  faucets  are  gen- 
erally brass  and  nickel  plated.  Brass  corrodes  and  is 
hard  to  keep  clean.  The  nickel  are  very  satisfactory 
but  cost  more.  The  enamel  are  quite  ideal  because  the 
polisliing  is  absolutely  obviated.  In  this  case  it  is  a 
toss-up  to  the  p^urchaser  what  it  is  best  to  save — time  or 
money.  Then  there  is  the  pressure  faucet — the  one 
which  has  to  be  held  in  order  to  get  water  out  of  it. 
These  are  quite  hateful  and  ought  never  to  be  used  un- 
less the  water  price  is  almost  prohibitive.     Sometimes 


THE  PLUMBING  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     147 

a  foot  pressure  faucet  is  used  in  order  that  the  worker 
may  have  his  hands  free  for  work.  A  new  faucet  which 
can  be  swung  into  different  positions  is  to  be  had  on 
the  new  pantry  sinks. 

If  the  water  pressure  is  extraordinarily  high,  try  to 
get  faucets  on  your  sink  with  air  chambers  to  take 
care  of  this  extra  pressure.  And  try,  above  all  things, 
to  buy  faucets  that  emit  a  flow  of  water  which  does  not 
splash  the  worker. 

Unless  you  are  a  skilled  mechanic,  don't  try  even  to 
put  a  new  washer  in  j'our  faucet  to  stop  a  leak.  Be- 
cause, unless  you  are  skilled,  you  may  forget  to  shut  the 
stop-cock  which  cuts  off  the  sink  from  the  main  water 
supply,  which  may  be  under  the  sink  or  in  the  cellar. 

And  to  prevent  a  woeful  catastrophy,  don't  forget, 
if  you  leave  your  house  unheated  in  the  winter,  to  turn 
off  the  water  in  the  cellar. 

Filters 

The  question  of  filters,  (See  Chapter  XXXII,  Polish- 
ing The  Water  Supply)  which  are  attached  to 
faucets,  is  full  of  danger,  as  there  are  only  a  few  good 
ones  on  the  market,  and  those  that  are  good  can  be 
rendered,  through  careless  handling,  much  more  of  a 
menace  than  the  ordinary  water  supplied  to  you. 
The  porcelain-like  candle  type  is  one  of  the  best  but 
not  absolutely  fool-proof.  The  water  sifts  and  filters 
through  this  porcelain  candle.  If  this  is  sent  away  to 
be  thoroughly  baked,  at  regular  intervals,  according  to 
the  manufacturer's  description,  it  is  useful;  but,  when 
this  is  not  done,  the  filter  becomes  a  breeding  place  for 
germs.  Therefore,  all  things  being  unequal,  boiled 
water  is  the  safest  insurance  against  germs. 

As  for  the  refrigerator's  (See  Chapter  XI  Refrig- 
erators)   role,   in   the   plumbing   of   the   kitchen:   this 


148  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

is,  of  course,  very  important  and  very  simple.  It 
is  necessary  to  keep  noxious  gases  from  the  stored 
food.  If  possible,  have  a  connection  through  the 
floor  with  the  trap  and  pan  in  the  cellar.  If  this  is 
impossible,  have  a  trap  and  pan  under  the  refrigerator 
which  can  be  often  emptied.  It  is,  of  course,  con- 
venient to  have  the  ice  box  filled  from  the  outside  of 
the  house  rather  than  have  the  ice  dragged  through  the 
kitchen. 

These  are  some  excerpts  from  the  plumbing  code: 

Safe  and  Refrigerator  Waste-Pipes 

Safe  and  refrigerator  waste-pipes  must  be  of  galvan- 
ized iron,  and  be  not  less  than  114"  in  diameter  nor 
larger  than  1^^''  in  diameter  with  pipe  bran- 
ches at  least  1"  in  diameter  with  strainers  over  each 
inlet. 

Safe  and  refrigerator  waste-pipes  shall  not  be 
trapped.  They  must  discharge  over  a  properly  water- 
supplied,  trapped  sink,  with  trap  vented  unless  an 
approved  anti-siphon  trap  is  installed  in  the  manner 
specified  in  Rule  91,  such  sink  to  be  publicly  placed,  and 
not  more  than  4f'  above  the  floor.  In  no  case  shall  any 
refrigerator  or  safe  waste-pipe  discharge  over  a  sink 
be  located  in  a  room  used  for  living  purposes. 

The  branches  on  vertical  lines  must  be  made  by  Y  or 
TY  fittings  and  carried  up  to  the  safe  with  as  much 
pitch  as  possible. 

Where  there  is  an  offset  on  a  refrigerator  waste-pipe 
in  the  cellar,  there  must  be  cleanouts  to  control  the  hori- 
zontal parts  of  the  pipe. 

In  all  lodgings  and  tenement  houses  the  safe  and  re- 
frigerator waste-pipes  must  extend  above  the  roof. 


THE  PLUMBING  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     149 

Homilies 

When  I  started  to  write  this  article  I  thought  I  would 
give  specific  plumbing  rules,  but  the  buying  of  fixtures 
is  really  all  that  is  necessary  for  the  housewife  to  know, 
as  all  first  class  plumbers  know  the  rules  of  the  code. 
So  the  best  plan  to  adopt  is  to  use  the  best  plumber. 
Even  if  he  be  expensive,  he  will  save  your  money  in  the 
end.  And  remember,  always  use  one  in  your  vicinity 
for,  if  you  do  not,  you  will  be  very  unpopular,  as  you 
will  know  when  some  dire  emergency  emerges! 

If  your  pipes  freeze  in  the  winter,  warm  cloths  until 
the  plumber  comes  is  the  best  remedy. 

If  you  build  in  a  remote  district,  have  your  water 
tested  by  an  expert  on  the  spot,  so  that  he  can  examine 
not  only  the  water,  but  the  source  of  its  supply,  and 
help  you  in  settling  where  to  build  your  well  or  pump, 
and  where  the  cistern  should  go,  etc.,  etc. 

After  a  new  installation  of  plumbing  is  made,  there 
is  applied  always  a  test  like  the  peppermint  smoke  test, 
etc.,  to  see  if  there  are  any  leaks  in  the  pipes.  This  is 
also  accounted  for  in  the  plumbing  code. 

Athough  not  quite  technically  a  plumbing  fixture, 
there  is  a  ventilating,  self-cooled  motor  propellor  fan, 
which  is  being  put  up  in  kitchens,  to  keep  the  kitchen 
cool  in  summer,  and  to  remove  traces  of  excessive  heat, 
steam  smoke,  and  objectionable  odors. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

KNIPE-LIFE  IN  THE  KITCHEN 

'*  f  WOULD  like  to  have   a  vegetable  knife,"  says 

A    a  woman  to  the  salesman. 

"Yes,  Madam,"  says  he,  handing  her  a  knife. 

"Thank  you,"  says  the  customer,  not  even  looking  at 
it.  Then  she  goes  home  and  tries  to  pare  a  pumpkin 
with  the  dainty  little  flexible  knife  that  she  has  bought 
and  finds  that  the  task  is  quite  impossible.  Why? 
Because  she  has  used  a  knife  not  designed  at  all  for 
anything  but  a  potato  or  an  apple. 

Such  things  are  very  frequent  because  the  purchaser 
doesn't  realize  that  "vegetable  knife"  as  well  as  "motor 
car"  spells  many  types,  and  that  the  knife  is  even  more 
diversified  in  design  than  the  car  to  meet  various  kinds 
of  work.  What  carpenter  would  think  of  cutting  across 
the  grain  with  a  plane  meant  for  cutting  with  the  grain  ? 
The  carpenter  realizes  the  range  of  design  in  his  tools, 
however.  So  should  it  be  with  women  if  they  wish  to 
save  their  nerves,  their  hands  and  their  time  and  make 
their  food  look  worthy  of  its  cost. 

The  background  of  the  knife  and  fork  is  surrounded 
with  historic  significance  and  romance.  The  knife 
seems  to  be  the  first-born  of  Father  Cutlery  and  the 
fork  a  late  development  as  a  table  essential ;  and  the 
spoon  comes  so  late  that  it  isn't  even  romantic. 

First  of  all,  cutlery  was  developed  from  the  hunting 
knife  in  various  guises.  Then  it  became  the  sword  of 
history.    Not  until  the  Middle  Ages  were  knives  used 

150 


KNIFE-LIFE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  151 

on  the  table,  and  then  only  one  or  two.  Not  until  two 
or  three  hundred  years  ago  were  they  used  by  each 
individual!    And  this  first  took  place  in  Italy, 

Ordinary  cutlery  was  really  first  used  in  the  form 
of  the  sheep  shears,  very  much  like  the  shears  used  in 
the  Rembrandt  painting:  The  Old  Woman  Cutting 
Her  Nails. 

Before  steel  was  used,  bamboo,  shell,  then  copper, 
bronze,  tin  and  copper  and  the  so-called  *' steel"  of 
Damascus  were  the  materials  out  of  which  the  knives 
and  swords  were  built. 

As  forks  were  a  later  development  and  were  used  at 
first  only  as  a  means  of  helping  the  diners  from  the 
central  dish,  it  was  necessary  for  the  diners  to  wear 
gloves  to  shield  them  from  the  rigors  of  hot  foods. 
Therefore,  with  such  methods  it  was  necessary  to  recover 
in  sanitary  fashion  and  to  this  end  servitors  would  meet 
each  diner  with  a  bowl  of  water  and  a  towel. 
Thus  has  the  finger  bowl  descended  unto  us. 

For  some  time  after  the  knife  and  fork  were  used 
generally,  each  person  would  carry  his  own  beautiful 
set  in  a  handsome  case  at  his  belt  or  girdle.  During 
the  18th  Century  when  the  fork  was  commonly  used  it 
was  with  the  knife  superbly  fashioned  of  jewels  and 
metal  work.  For  the  most  part  forks  were  two  pronged, 
and  not  until  Louis  XV  of  France  did  the  four-tine 
fork  come  into  being. 

So  from  the  hunting  knife  and  the  crotched  wooden 
stick  was  born  our  own  diversified  cutlery.  Not  only  in 
steel  of  fine  temper  and  hardness,  but  recently  of  steel 
with  the  added  qualities  of  stainlessness. 

Although  Sheffield,  England,  in  the  past  has  the  rep- 
utation for  the  finest  cutlery  in  the  world,  and  although 
Sheffield  must  be  given  the  credit  for  fathering  the 
craft,  yet  the  United  States  to-day  is  making  some  of  the 


152  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

best  cutlery  and  bids  fair  to  outmake  and  outsell  the 
world  in  quantity  and  quality. 

Kitchen  Cutlery 

The  subject  of  kitchen  cutlery,  the  one  which  this 
chapter  is  dealing  with,  does  not  interest  itself  in  silver 
plate  and  all  the  cutlery  so  beautifully  made  for  table 
use.  The  same  general  principals  apply,  but  there  is 
too  little  space  here  to  go  into  the  detail  of  pattern, 
brands  and  general  details  of  table  cutlery. 

However,  the  blades  for  most  cutting  articles  are 
made  of  shear  steel,  and  for  this  crucible  cast  steel  and 
forged  steel  are  used. 
ji  The  essential  parts  of  the  process  of  cutlery  making 
***  are:  (1)  forging;  (2)  hardening  and  tempering;  (3) 
grinding;  (4)  polishing;  (5)  assembling,  honing  and 
the  finishing  touches;  and  these  are  subdivided  into 
many  divisions,  making  nearly  a  hundred  in  some  in- 
stances and  more  in  others. 

The  last  division  is  the  one  which  the  "cutler"  does 
to-day.  In  the  18th  Century  the  cutler  did  the  whole 
work  of  making  a  knife,  but  to-day  the  polisher  polishes 
and  the  grinder  grinds,  etc.  The  hundreds  of  processes 
to-day  in  the  course  of  the  manufacture  of  one  piece 
of  cutlery  are  in  the  hands  of  nearly  as  many  workmen. 

Of  course,  the  value  of  modern  cutlery  is  in  the  finesse 
of  manufacture  and  the  quality  of  steel  that  is  used, 
and  in  the  perfection  of  its  varying  parts  and  their 
assembling. 

Knives  are  meant  to  cut. 

Knives,  therefore,  must  be  so  made  that  they  will  keep 
their  cutting  edges,  so  proportioned  as  to  fit  the  thing  to 
be  cut ;  so  limber  or  so  stiff  as  to  be  comfortably 
wielded ;  so  assembled  as  to  keep  their  handles  fastened 
to  them;  and  so  balanced  (even  as  a  golf  club)  as  to  be 


KNIFE-LIFE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  153 

not  only  easy  but  pleasant  to  use.    Pleasant  tools  make 
light  work. 

The  knife  has  three  or  four  main  parts — the  blade; 
the  tang  (that  part  which  fits  into  the  handle)  ;  the 
handle  itself,  or  haft,  as  it  is  sometimes  called ;  and  in 
some  cases  a  metal  ferrule.  Much  depends  upon  the 
way  these  parts  are  made  and  fitted;  they  must  be  so 
married  that  nothing  can  divorce  the  knife  from  the 
handle,  so  that  they  will  preserve  their  oneness  indefi- 
nitely. The  great  Reno  for  the  knife  is  the  huddled 
drawer  in  which  it  is  for  the  most  part  kept,  but  more  of 
this  later. 

Variety  in  Knife-Lite 

The  kinds  of  knife  in  which  the  housewife  is  particu- 
larly interested  are:  carvers,  vegetable  slicers,  parers, 
fruit,  cleavers,  etc.  Subdivided,  they  are:  paring, 
bread,  meat,  poultry,  carving,  cake,  boning,  paring 
(small  pocket  type  style),  spatula,  lemon,  grape  and 
orange,  curved  in  French,  German  and  American  fash- 
ions, cleavers  and  scrapers. 

Where  it  is  necessary  for  a  knife  to  conform  to  shape 
in  paring,  a  flexible  knife  is  more  comfortable  than  a 
stiff  one.  Therefore,  if  you  want  a  vegetable  knife  for 
slicing  potatoes  never  think  of  buying  a  long  stiff  one  be- 
cause your  work  will  be  seriously  impeded.  If  you 
have  the  right  tool  the  job  of  paring,  or  what  not,  will  be 
as  much  fun  as  carving  is  for  the  artist  who  in  his  turn 
always  has  the  correct  tool. 

"Gracious,  I  can  never  slice  a  ham  that  doesn't  look 
as  if  some  one  bit  it  up,"  said  a  friend  of  mine. 

As  gently  as  I  could  I  told  her  it  was  because  she 
was  trying  to  do  the  impossible.  She  used  a  knife  for 
bread  and  cake,  broad  and  short,  and  expected  it  to  do 
the  work  of  a  long,  thin  blade  slightly  curved  off  at  the 


154  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

end.  The  heavy,  wide-bladed  knife  cleaves  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  meat  and  makes  it  a  practical  impossibility 
for  any  ordinary  mortal  to  push  it  through.  The  nar- 
row blade  is  what  you  must  have,  as  it  requires  less 
strength  and  cuts  therefore  more  eflficiently.  The  knife 
with  the  almost  scimitar  formation  makes  it  simple 
to  cut  around  a  bone. 

Most  everybody  has  a  bread  knife,  so  we  need  not 
bother  about  that  familiar  object,  but  the  only  thing 
necessary  is  that  the  bread  knife  should  be  kept  for 
bread  (and  kept  sharp)  as  far  as  possible,  unless  it  is 
adapted  by  having  a  medium  wide  blade,  to  cut  meat 
and  cake. 

For  hot  meats  a  rather  flexible,  but  not  too  flexible, 
knife  should  be  used,  especially  in  the  case  of  hot  steaks 
and  ham.  It  is  a  real  comfort  to  have  a  good  knife  for 
these  things ;  the  meat  is  not  chewed  before  its  time  and 
is  not  wasted  in  formless  gobs. 

For  the  person  who  must  economize  on  the  number 
of  utensils,  a  knife  about  8"  or  9"  long  with  rather  wide 
blade  can  be  bought  which  can  very  comfortably  be  used 
for  cold  meat  slicing  as  well  as  bread  and  cake.  A  set 
of  six  knives,  two  spatulas  and  two  forks,  will  fill  most 
kitchens  needs.  Other  knives  and  forks  can  be  added 
as  specials.  Here  is  the  2"  paring  knife,  3"  for  split- 
ting. The  general  household  keeps  a  fork  with  the 
French  pattern  blade  for  general  work  and  the  heavy  6" 
blade  for  cutting  vegetables  such  as  turnips,  pumpkins, 
squashes,  etc.,  where  a  thin  blade  would  snap ;  the  fork 
has  hardened  blades  with  needle  points.  The  spatula 
for  pastry  works  as  well  as  the  wide  spatula.  The  carv- 
ing knife  in  8"  short  blade,  and  the  flexible  slicing  knife 
with  9"  blade  usable  for  cold  meats,  cake,  bread,  etc., 
and  the  general  utility  knife. 

For  tough  cutting  and  broad  surfaces  the  narrow, 


KNIFE-LIFE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  155 

stiff  knife  is  best,  for  crumbly  broad  surfaces  the  broad, 
stiff  knife.  For  rather  tough,  small  surfaces,  to  be  pared 
and  trimmed,  the  medium  flexible,  narrow  blade  is  best. 
Use  the  narrow  and  stiff"  and  short  knife  for  tough  small 
surfaces  like  squash  and  turnips.  With  these  simple 
logical  suggestions  the  knife  problem  is  easy. 

"Had  I  only  learned  the  use  of  the  spatula  in  cooking 
school  I  should  have  thought  my  course  to  be  a  lifelong 
economy."  This  was  said  somewhat  in  jest,  but  it 
shows  just  what  the  value  of  the  spatula  is.  It  is  an 
economy.  It  is  not  a  cutter  but  a  very  flexible,  bendy 
blade  with  round  comers  which  can  assume  the  curve  of 
any  vessel  and  pick  up  dough  or  anything  left  behind 
in  bowl  or  pastry  board  which  is  worth  saving.  It  is  a 
scraper  and  saver.  You  need  not  waste  a  bit  of  the 
precious  egg  on  the  sides  of  your  dish  or  a  bit  of  batter  if 
you  use  the  spatula.  It  also  lifts  comfortably  the  egg, 
griddle  cake,  fish  etc.,  from  the  pan.  It  is  really  a  joy 
unbounded. 

A  larger  sized  spatula  is  a  convenience,  too,  for  scrap- 
ing and  cleaning  large  kettles  and  also  for  a  cake  or  pie 
lifter.  Being  larger  it  is  a  trifle  stiffer.  One  corner 
of  the  end  of  this  blade  is  sharp  and  the  opposite  comer 
is  round.  The  reasons  are  obviously  for  attacking 
corners  and  not  scratching  surfaces. 

Home  Butchering 

In  some  homes  a  certain  amount  of  butchering  is  done 
in  the  kitchen,  sometimes  to  save  expense  and  some- 
times for  certain  and  very  fine  results  if  the  chef  is  a 
jewel. 

To  this  end  there  are  some  good  implements  on  the 
market:  strong,  well  balanced  and  riveted  to  give  good 
service.  Knife  blades  for  this  work  range  from  5"  to 
14"  in  length  and  are  in  various  styles. 


156  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

The  cleaver  is  a  good  thing  to  have  should  the  butcher 
sometimes  neglect  to  break  a  furtive  bone.  These  come 
in  pleasan.t  weights  and  dimensions,  the  one  with  blade 
6"  long  by  ly-z'  wide,  weighing  in  all  one  pound. 

In  connection  with  knives  for  fruits  and  vegetables 
you  will  be  interested  in  the  story  of  the  late  product  of 
steel  which  is  so  fast  coming  to  the  markets  of  the  world. 
It  is  stainless  steel.  A  steel  (with  an  admixture  of 
chromium)  which  resists  rust,  does  not  corrode  or  scale, 
and  is  impervious  to  food  acids  (with  the  exception  of 
the  mustard  plus  vinegar  plus  salt  combination  which 
makes  a  muriatic  acid,  which  is  the  acid  with  which 
steel  is  etched). 

It  keeps  a  fine  edge  and  is  of  fine  temper  and  hardness 
when  made  by  accomplished  manufacturers.  The  steel 
you  use  now  is  a  carbon  steel.  Before  the  war,  both  in 
England  and  America,  it  was  rapidly  coming  into  our 
markets,  but  the  value  of  such  steel  was  so  patent  to 
governments  that  the  war  and  construction  departments 
used  it  all.  Now,  however,  it  can  be  bought  even  in 
some  department  stores. 

Think  of  not  having  to  scour  or  polish  your  knives. 
Think  of  the  knife  having  an  indefinite  life  and  always 
looking  highly  polished.  Soon,  too,  even  the  handle  will 
be  made  of  this  steel  and  the  knife  will  look  like  a  highly 
polished  silver  utensil. 

What  maj^  this  mean  in  a  servantless  home? 

No  cleaning  powders  must  be  used  to  clean  this  steel ; 
only  warm  water  and  a  mild  soap.  Its  advent  reminds 
you  of  the  early  days  of  aluminum  utensils,  doesn't  it? 
The  manufacturers  are  planning  to  make  kettles,  pots, 
and  pans  of  it,  as  they  will  wear  well,  and  will  not  scale 
and  wear  as  do  iron  ones. 

As  this  steel  is  non-staining,  the  hands  are  not  stained 
as  much  when  it  is  used  with  fruit  juices ;  the  factor  of 


KNIFE-LIFE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  157 

the  juice  combining  with  the  elements  in  the 
steel  is  absent.  There  are  some  people  whose 
hands  stain  from  certain  juices  whereas  the 
hands  of  others  do  not,  but  generally  speaking, 
there  will  be  less  hand  staining  with  this  newer  steel. 

If  you  do  your  own  work,  how  your  hands  will  be 
saved ! 

The  few  years  of  its  service  may  not  have  revealed 
all  of  its  good  points  or  some  of  its  bad  points.  Only 
time  will  tell,  of  course.  But  as  a  fruit  knife  at  present 
the  stainless  type  seems  to  be  a  fine  thing,  though  the 
ordinary  steel  knife,  if  sharp  and  well  made,  is  no  less 
of  a  joy  than  ever  it  was.  Manufacturers  are  adopting 
the  stainless — even  those  who  think  that  it  isn  't  as  good 
as  it  is  claimed  to  be. 

Vegetable  and  fruit  slicers  and  parers  come  in  many 
sizes  and  styles.  They  are  usually  small  and  light  with 
narrow  blades  and  sharp.  They  are  to  be  had  in  stain- 
less and  carbon  steel  in  sets  and  in  singles,  and  when 
bought  wisely  make  the  kitchen  maids'  job  an  artistic 
one. 

Grape-fruits  and  oranges  have  knives  for  their  very 
own.  Manufacturers  have  given  much  time  and  thought 
to  the  easiest  method  of  preparing  these  fruits  easily, 
without  loss  of  juices  and  flavor,  and  without  waste  of 
time  on  the  part  of  the  operator.  And  so  there  have 
been  born  a  few  of  these  knives  which  are  excellent  and 
live  up  to  their  glowing  advertisements. 

Their  characteristics  are:  Two-edged,  like  the  great 
swords  of  old.  They  cut  from  either  the  right  or  left 
with  ease;  the  blade  is  curved  to  fit  the  fruit  and  has 
rounded  points  so  as  not  to  lacerate  the  outer  skin  and 
waste  the  juices  and  spoil  the  shape  of  the  fruit.  The 
blade  is  exceedingly  sharp  and  honed  carefully  like  a 
razor — the  sharper  it  is  the  swifter  it  will  do  its  work. 


m 


CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


The  blade  must  be  securely  fastened  in  the  handle. 
The  handle  must  be  light,  of  comfortable  shape  and  well 
balanced.     In  a  few  words,  the  knife  must  be  able  to  get 


SSS3i 


i 


tiCMl  «.«.  ».IM».  »u  .>  ,,  ^;^  ^.t^ragrP 


DEVICES    DESIGNED    BY    THE    AUTHOR    FOR    KEEPINO    CUTLERY 
IN     CUTTING    FORM 

down  and  under  the  center,  cutting  the  side  segments 

as  well  as  making  the  tough  walls  "fade  away"  easily. 

The  knives  are  made  in  stainless  steel,  in  nickel-plated 

steel  and  in  the  ordinary  and  fine  vanadium  steel.    Your 


KNIFE-LIFE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  159 

fruit  when  prepared  with  such  a  knife  may  look  as  if 
hands  never  touched  it. 

Handles 

The  question  of  handles  is  interesting  because  the 
knife  without  the  handle,  however  sharp  it  may  be,  is 
of  little  use.  The  main  question  is  of  ease  in  gripping, 
in  the  balance,  and  in  the  duration  of  time  that  the 
blade  will  stay  firm  in  the  handle. 

There  are  many  ways  of  accomplishing  these  things: 
in  some  cases  the  tang  of  the  blade  is  cemented  in  the 
handle.  This  is  done  where  the  knife  is  used  with  little 
pressure  and  strength,  such  as  the  feather-curling  knife 
of  the  milliner ;  there  are  some  knives  which  are  riveted 
such  as  butchers '  knives  because  much  force  is  used  with 
them;  household  knives  are  pinned  and  pinned  and  ce- 
mented sometimes,  and  in  the  case  of  home  butcher 
knives  as  many  as  three  pins  are  used  to  keep  the  handle 
steady. 

With  knives  like  the  corrugated  types,  there  are  often 
metal  wire  handles  drawn  out  on  them.  The  corruga- 
tions on  these  blades  are  to  obviate  tearing  and  reduce, 
some  think,  the  pressure  necessary  in  cutting. 

Handles  themselves  are  made  of  various  things, — 
woods,  rubberoid,  celluloid,  metals,  stag  and  in  the  case 
of  table  knives,  mother-of-pearl,  shell,  silver  over  nickel, 
etc. 

The  kitchen  knife  handle  must  be  able  to  stand  all 
heats,  be  impervious  to  hot  water,  be  smooth  and  com- 
fortable in  shape,  and  must  be  nicely  finished  so  as  to 
give  the  worker  a  feeling  of  worth-whileness  in  his  job. 
Sloppy  tools  make  for  sloppy  work.  Think  of  your 
cutlery  as  the  dentist  does  his  tools  and  you  will  feel 
professional. 


160 


CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


The  housewife  errs  in  no  place  quite  so  much  as  in 
the  care  of  her  cutlery.  In  nine  and  one-half  houses 
out  of  ten  the  good  blades  are  huddled  and  hustled  into 
a  drawer  where  they  loosen  from  their  handles,  nick, 
scratch  and  hammer  each  other  to  their  own  destruction. 
What  good  is  there  in  having  good  materials  if  they  are 
to  be  stored  in  this  manner  ? 

Consider  the  carpenter  how  he  stores!    He  hangs 


ANOTHER    DEVICE    DESIGNED    BY    THE    AUTHOR    FOR    KEEPING 
CUTLERY   IN   CUTTING   FORM 

each  tool  in  a  certain  groove,  and  as  he  desires  a  certain 
thing  he  extracts  it.  He  can't  afford  to  have  auto- 
destruction — it  is  too  extravagant  a  disease.  Yet  it  is 
the  hardest  thing  in  the  world  to  make  the  housewife 
hang  up  her  few  knives  and  keep  them  forever  in  good 
shape. 

Clean  them  after  every  using.  It's  easier  then.  A 
little  scouring  powder  now  and  then  will  keep  them  in 
condition.    Do  not  use  scouring  powders  with  stainless 


KNIFE-LIFE  IN  THE  KITCHEN  161 

steel,  as  it  reduces  the  polish — ^the  very  thing  which 
maintains  its  imperviousness  to  stain. 

All  new  knives  should  be  so  finished  when  you  buy 
them  that  they  need  no  further  edging.  The  best 
manufacturers  see  to  this  and  have  a  department  just 
to  hone  and  make  knives  ready  for  use. 

Sharpening 

The  housewife's  best  method  of  sharpening  or  rather 
keeping  the  edges  straight  and  keenly  cutting  is  the 
steel.  When  the  knife  really  gets  dull  it  should  be 
ground.  The  use  of  the  stone  or  carborundum  by  the 
ordinary  operator  often  wears  the  steel.  However,  if 
the  use  of  the  grinder  or  the  stone  or  the  carborundum  is 
really  known,  time  and  money  will  be  saved  in  the  sharp- 
ening process.  Sharp  knives  save  temper,  save  food  to  a 
great  degree,  and  therefore  if  you  can't  sharpen  knives 
yourself  send  them  out  to  be  taken  care  of  once  or  twice 
a  year. 

There  is  a  special  stone  on  the  market  for  stainless 
steel  sharpening ;  it  is  well  to  get  this  for  your  stainless 
utensils.    Follow  the  directions  with  it  carefully. 

All  sharpening  steels  should  have  a  guard  for  the  hand 
in  case  the  knife  slides  back  towards  the  fingers. 

Never  hold  the  knife  on  edge  on  the  steel,  for  it  should) 
be  quite  flat;  remember  you  are  trying  to  flatten  the 
two  sides  toward  the  edge,  and  thereby  make  it  a  better 
cutter. 

There  are  good  rotary  grinders  and  polishers  on  the 
market,  and  knowledge  of  them  and  their  use  is  very 
valuable.  There  are  also  stones  flat  and  stones  in. 
handles,  all  for  keeping  knives  sharp.  They  are  yours 
if  you  want  them  and  realize  that  you  must  know  how 
to  use  them  to  save  rather  than  to  destroy  your  cut- 
lery. 


162  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

The  story  of  forks  is  almost  the  same  as  that  of  its 
confreres,  knives. 

The  tines  must  be  rigid  and  sharp  enough  to  pierce 
immediately  and  not  drop  their  prey  by  dull  points. 

Forks  were  not  meant  to  open  cans  or  lift  lids.  Many 
a  perfect  fork  has  had  its  life  history  snapped  by  this 
usage. 

As  with  the  sharpening  steel,  so  with  the  fork  which 
accompanies  the  carving  knife — it  too  should  have  a 
guard  to  prevent  the  knife  slipping  and  injuring  the 
left  hand. 

If  you  buy  the  best  cutlery  from  the  most  representa- 
tive firms  you  will  have  the  best  results  and  be  well 
repaid.  Good  cutlery,  like  everything  good,  is  more 
expensive  than  the  cheap  varieties.  Good  cutlery  may 
stand  up  longer  under  bad  usage  than  poor  cutlery ;  but 
don't  tempt  it  and  waste  your  money! 

A  little  care  with  cutlery  will  curtail  your  bills,  give 
your  food  a  better  appearance  and  swifter  accomplish- 
ment, for,  after  all,  the  kitchen  work  is  mostly  cut- 
ting up. 


CHAPTER  XVli 

THE    ANCIENT    WOOD    IMPLEMENTS 

IN  these  days  of  metals,  electricity  and  enamels, 
you  are  very  prone  to  forget  that  there  is  still  vir- 
tue in  the  ancient  wood,  which  with  true  aristocratic 
gentleness,  has  given  way  to  those  more  parvenu  prod- 
ucts that  boast  their  sanitary  qualities. 

To-day  there  are  still  things  of  wood  for  the  kitchen, 
pantry  and  laundry  which  are  retained  to  advantage 
and  other  things  which  can  be  kept,  if  not  with  advan- 
tage, at  least  for  utility. 

Some  purchasers  have  wasted  time  in  their  zeal  to  kill 
entirely  the  wood  tradition  and  substitute  metals  in 
every  instance.  To  save  this  time,  this  article  is  written 
and  dedicated  to  you  who  would  have  the  right  thing, 
be  it  of  the  darker  ages  or  of  this  so-called  sanitary  or 
enlightened  era. 

For  example,  could  you  ever  use  a  metal  plank  for 
planked  fish  or  meats?  Of  course  not!  The  wood  it- 
self in  this  case  gives  up  its  own  essence  as  it  combines, 
through  the  medium  of  heat,  with  the  juices  of  the  food 
cooked  on  its  surface.  What  metal  could  do  this  with- 
out imparting  the  metallic  taste  to  the  bill  of  fare  ? 

These  planks  come  in  different  sizes  and  shapes.  The 
best  are  of  oak.  Some  cost  more  than  others.  But  the 
thing  to  remember  is  that  a  plank  is  like  wine,  the  older 
it  is,  that  is,  the  more  it  is  used  and  becomes  impreg- 
nated with  the  empyreumatic  flavors  of  the  food  stuffs, 

163 


164  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

the  more  exquisite  become  its  quality  and  the  better 
flavor  it  imparts  to  the  food. 

According  to  Nicholas  Sabatini,  Chef  of  Delmonico's 
the  best  thing  to  do  with  a  plank  when  you  buy  it  is 
to  keep  it  for  at  least  six  weeks,  to  be  sure  that  it  is 
seasoned  sufficiently.  After  using  a  plank,  do  not  soak 
it  in  water,  but  clean  it  off  with  a  damp  cloth  only. 
Then  keep  it  under  a  weight  of  some  sort  to  prevent 
any  probable  warping  of  the  wood.  Mr.  Sabatini  was 
very  insistent  about  the  plank  being  of  oak,  as  any  other 
wood  imparts  too  definite  a  flavor  of  its  own  to  the 
food  stuffs  cooked  on  it. 

Ironing  boards  have  never  been  replaced  with  metal 
to  any  large  extent.  It  is  their  *'give"  when  swathed  in 
** white  stuff"  that  makes  them  comforting  and  usable. 
Even  the  modem  bracketed  ironing  boards  are  wooden 
with  the  exception  of  their  metal  joints  and  arms, 
enabling  them  to  be  folded  against  the  walls  or  put 
out  of  the  way.  So,  too,  the  sleeve  and  skirt  board. 
Time  would  be  wasted  in  hunting  for  a  more  modern 
material  to  use  for  these  staples. 

Ironing  folding  tables  are  neat  little  things  for  the 
small  house.  These  are  made  of  white  wood.  They 
will  not  last  a  lifetime  but  they  are  inexpensive  and  use- 
ful. 

Skirt  boards  come  from  3'  to  6'  long  and  the  sleeve 
board  around  18"  to  20''  long. 

In  some  cases  where  there  is  available  both  a  wooden 
article  and  a  china  or  metal,  it  is  often  better  to  get  the 
non-wooden.  For  example,  the  wooden  salt  box;  good 
enough  in  its  way  but  it  is  out-ranked  by  the  china, 
porcelain  or  composition  boxes,  because  these  materials 
look  better,  wear  better  and  cannot  help  being  smoother 
and  less  fibrous  than  the  wooden  variety.  So  would 
you  rather  buy  sharpeners,  flour  sieves,  some  of  the 


THE  ANCIENT  WOOD  IMPLEMENTS     165 

pot  racks  and  sink  racks  in  metal  garb  than  wood, 
although  there  are  some  sink  racks  of  wood  which  not 
only  have  a  porcelain  lining  but  save  breakage  of  china. 

Chopping  bowls  of  sugar  maple  (not  southern  maple) 
are  kitchen  necessities.  These  do  not  splinter  and  they 
make  the  din  of  chopping  less  obnoxious.  The  rotary 
chopping  machine  is  not  always  analogous  to  the  chop- 
ping bowl,  for  who  could  chop  parsely  as  well  in  a 
chopper  as  with  blade  and  bowl? 

Wooden  bread  boards  and  cake  boards,  of  course,  are 
invaluable  (pie  "boards"  are  better  of  marble,  porce- 
lain or  their  cognates).  These  must  be  of  hard  wood 
such  as  maple  or  birch  and  so  made  as  to  be  knotless, 
crackless  and  long  grained.  A  damp  cloth  will  remove 
traces  of  material  used  thereon. 

The  onion  should  have  its  own  little  chopping  board 
for  obvious  reasons. 

Noodle  boards  are  oblong,  usually  of  white  wood  and 
come  from  14''x20''  to  20"x30".  These  have  a  de- 
scending ledge  at  the  near  side  to  hold  fast  to  the  table 
and  an  ascending  ledge  on  the  far  side  to  keep  the 
dough  from  sliding  off.  Bread  boards  are  round  and 
are  from  10"  to  11"  in  diameter.  Pastry  boards  can 
be  had  from  12"xl6"  to  20''x30". 

The  wooden  step,  non-rickety  and  solid,  is  of  ines- 
timable value  in  the  kitchen  where  the  worker  is  too 
short  for  the  tables  or  tubs,  or  where  things  must  needs 
be  on  high  shelves.  The  step  chair  which  readily  is 
changed  from  ladder  to  chair  combines  a  2-in-l  arrange- 
ment, that  makes  room  in  a  kitchen  by  obviating  ex- 
tra chairs  and  extra  space  for  a  pair  of  steps  or  ladder. 

We  would  warn  purchasers  against  the  salesman  of 
wood  garbage  buckets  or  pails.  In  no  case  are  they  as 
sanitary  as  regular  metal  containers. 

But  the  oak  pail,  keg  or  bucket  for  cider,  vinegar, 


166  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

preserves  or  water  is  a  good  culinary  adjunct.  They 
are  hard,  firm  and  well  constructed  in  the  best  makes. 
Often  these  things  have  been  quite  forgotten  and  yet 
they  are  quite  useful  in  kitchen  economy. 

Wooden  pails  come  for  various  uses — scrubbing  pails, 
water  pails,  jelly  pails  and  flour  pails.  They  are  made 
with  two  or  three  hoops  and  are  of  pine,  cedar,  oak  grain 
or  oak.  The  flour  pails  hold  from  I2I/2  to  50  pounds  of 
flour.  The  jelly  pails  hold  from  5  to  30  pounds  of 
jelly  and  are  a  convenience  to  the  house-keeper  who 
puts  up  a  lot  at  a  time  and  who  has  a  large  menage. 

The  large  wooden  spoon  for  use  in  acid  cookery — 
preserves  and  the  like — is  indispensable  to  the  epicur- 
ean household  and  should  be  on  every  kitchen  utensil 
list. 

The  clothes-horse  is  practically  an  extinct  animal.  In 
its  place  has  come  a  different  species  of  varying  kinds. 
Some  fold  up  against  the  wall,  some  are  pulleyed  up 
to  the  ceiling  and  get  the  ascending  heat  of  the  room 
for  drying  and  some  don't  fold  at  all.  Some  are  built 
for  porch  use,  garden  use  and  roof  use.  But  all  are 
less  aggressive  than  the  extinct  "horse," 

A  close  relation  to  the  clothes  rack  is  the  towel  rack 
and  hand  towel  roller,  usually  of  wood  and  made  as 
well  of  this  material  as  any  other. 

The  bread  and  pastry  roller  is  usually  of  wood  and  is 
quite  efficient.  There  are  glass  rollers  on  the  market 
but,  of  course,  these  can  chip.  Special  noodle  rollers 
are  made  now  of  maple  and  birch  and  are  long  and  thin, 
giving  quick  contact  like  a  low  gear!  Some  rollers 
have  designs  cut  in  them  for  finishing  off  a  bit  of  dough 
with  a  pattern. 

Potato,  slaw  and  bread  cutters  are  merely  wood  re- 
ceptacles with  cutting  blade  insertions. 

Knife  drawers  or  racks  with  grooves  to  keep  the 


THE  ANCIENT  WOOD  IMPLEMENTS      167 

knife  blade  inviolate  are  too  little  used.  This  is  one  of 
the  things  that  will  make  the  kitchen  a  more  proper  tool 
chest,  prolong  the  life  of  cutlery  and  save  time  in  the 
search  for  wanted  knives  on  the  part  of  the  worker. 
These  are  being  made  in  compact,  useful  fashion  to 
meet  the  needs  of  the  well  ordered  kitchen.  We  can't 
stress  the  housing  of  cutlery  hard  enough — and  it  is  a 
real  housing  problem. 

The  pot  cover  rack  for  those  who  do  not  hang  up  their 
pots  is  a  great  comfort.  It  is  inexpensive  and  easily  in- 
stalled. With  these  cover  racks  you  easily  identify  the 
cover  and  it  doesn't  get  lost  in  a  dark  closet,  although 
many  folks  think  quite  the  contrary  and  deplore  the 
newer  methods  of  hanging  up  pots  and  their  covers 
to  the  public  gaze. 

The  question  of  serving  butter  delightfully  is  taken 
care  of  by  keeping  it  in  the  ice  box  in  a  stone  crock, 
and  making  butter  balls  with  little  wooden  butter  pats. 
There  are  also  wooden  butter  prints,  which  enable  one 
to  serve  butter  in  forms  with  a  probable  little  raised 
design  on  its  top  surface.  These  come  in  a  flattened 
butter  ball  size  and  also  in  i/^-pound  print  moulds. 

The  question  of  wood  in  the  kitchen  becomes  acute 
in  the  handle  situation.  Brushes,  brooms  and  mops  of 
all  kinds  have  wooden  handles,  and  the  handle  makes 
for  comfort  and  comfort  for  efficiency.  Therefore  it 
is  not  out  of  place  here  to  give  a  few  suggestions  as  to 
what  a  handle  ought  to  be : 

1.  Smooth — no  splinters — hard  non-porous. 

2.  Easily  held  in  hand  (if  on  scrubbing  brush,  sink 
brush,  etc.). 

3.  Long  enough  to  do  the  work  (if  on  wall  or  ceil- 
ing or  radiator  brush). 

4.  Set  firmly  in  its  socket  and  easily  set  in  (if  on 
mop,  wall  brush,  etc.). 


168  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

5.  Non-snapping,  not  brittle  (if  on  a  wall  duster). 

6.  Enameled  to  resist  heat  and  water. 

The  mallet  and  the  potato  masher  are  heavy  tools  and 
quite  necessary.  The  former  is  usually  of  hickory  or 
lignum  vitae,  the  latter  of  maple.  The  potato  masher's 
function  is  obvious,  but  the  mallet  is  often  needed  for 
cracking  a  bone,  or  ice.  For  fixing  lobster  and  making 
a  chicken  go  a  long  way  a  mallet  is  quite  a  little  ' '  fixer, ' ' 

The  coffee  mill  and  the  sink  rack  can  be  as  well  made 
of  wood  as  of  metal.  Yet  this  does  not  need  to  preclude 
the  metal  ones  for  those  wanting  them.  The  wooden 
ones  themselves  are  really  more  of  hardware  than  of 
wood. 

The  mouse  trap  of  wood  used  once  and  then  to  be 
thrown  out  is  rather  a  pleasanter  idea  than  using  the 
same  impregnated  trap  over  and  over  again.  These  are 
cheap  and  ready  to  use  at  any  time. 

The  wooden  salad  set,  knife,  spoon,  fork,  are  rather 
epicurean  but  seem  to  be  passing  out  of  fashion. 

Tables  of  wood  are  so  common  that  they  need  little 
description,  yet  a  few  suggestions  may  be  of  real  value. 
The  table  with  the  stove  is  all  important  in  the  kitchen. 
It  is  so  valuable,  indeed,  that  it  has  been  lately  com- 
bined with  the  dish-washer  and  the  effete  refrigerator 
in  order  to  make  it  possible  in  limited  spaces  to  install 
these  quite  noble  but  less  royal  things. 

Tersely  said,  the  table  must  be  large  enough  for  the 
work  to  be  done,  steady  on  its  legs,  simple  in  construc- 
tion and  easily  kept  clean  and  wholly  sanitary. 

If  possible  metal  capped  legs  will  prevent  the  legs 
becoming  unlevel  by  swelling  when  the  floor  is  washed 
or  shifting  through  general  use.  The  table  top  would 
easily  take  a  whole  story;  the  main  requisite  is  that  it 
be  hard,  easily  cleaned  and  scraped — be  it  of  wood, 
composition,  marble,  metal  or  of  the  porcelain  family. 


THE  ANCIENT  WOOD  IMPLEMENTS      169 

Kitchen  tables  3'  to  7'  long,  with  and  without  shelves 
beneath  and  also  with  or  without  clcfeets  and  drawers 
below. 

The  wooden  top  of  maple  is  most  satisfactory  and 
probably,  of  all  the  table  tops,  most  used.  Yet  for  those 
that  can  afford  the  wooden  table  with  marble  top  and 
German  silver  trimmings,  nothing  could  be  more  perfect 
even  though  the  price  soars. 

Finally,  if  there  be  benefit  in  this  article  take  from  it 
suggestions  for  the  wooden  wedding  gift.  Few  people 
think  of  the  kitchen  as  a  realm  for  gifts.  In  our  ex- 
perience presents  of  culinary  use  have  been  a  boon  to 
many  householders,  especially  at  the  wooden  wedding 
period. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

GLASS  WEAR 

GLASS  ware  is  now  no  longer  for  ornament  alone,  but 
for  cooking  uses  as  well. 
The  only  way  to  tell  if  you  have  a  good  piece  of 
glass  or  not  is  to  compare  it  to  other  pieces  for  color 
and  sound.  If  it  sounds  clear  and  bell-like,  it  is  pretty 
sure  to  be  a  good  bit  of  glass.  But  don't  strike  it  if  it 
happens  to  be  in  a  groove  or  it  will,  of  course,  shatter 
it,  as  the  pieces  will  have  no  room  to  vibrate  and  will 
break  the  bounds. 

Annealing 

Annealing  is  the  process  brought  to  such  a  perfection 
to-day  that  glass  can  be  made  almost  shell  proof.  In 
fact  glass  for  automobile  windows  was  and  is  being 
made  that  when  it  is  struck  will  not  shatter  but  will 
simply  crack  or  craze.  This  process  is  one  of  careful 
heating  and  cooling  many  times  repeated.  It  makes 
the  glass  more  elastic  so  that  the  particles  are  in  more 
of  a  state  of  equilibrium  and  can  be  struck  without 
danger  of  breaking. 

Manufactuee 

The  basis  of  all  glass  is  soda,  aluminum  or  oxide  of 
lead  in  combination  with  silica  of  sand.  Doesn't  this 
sound  hiphalutin?  Well,  it  isn't.  Then  this  is  heated 
to  something  like  1200  degrees  Fahrenheit  and  when  in 

170 


GLASS  WEAR  171 

molten  form  is  blown  with  air  incorporators  into  the 
requisite  shapes.  You  no  doubt  have  seen  glass  blown 
at  bazaars  or  fairs.  But  of  course  this  blowing  in  the 
factory  is  done  with  huge  blowers.  The  best  glass 
is  dependent  on  its  base  as  it  is  combined  with  lead. 
This  combination  is  the  fine  glass  called  flint  glass. 
And  it  is  from  flint  glass  which  has  the  luster  that  the 
cut  and  engraved  glass  is  made. 

Color 

The  color  in  glass  is  given  to  it  by  the  use  of  metal  ox- 
ides, blue  is  derived  from  copper  oxide,  yellow  from  iron 
oxide,  the  stunning  reds  from  gold.  Don't  these  facts, 
make  glass  more  interesting  to  you  ? 

Rock  crystal  is  the  fashion  now  and  probably  will 
persist.  But  don't,  for  goodness'  sake,  be  untechnical 
enough  to  say  anything  but  polished  engraved  glass, 
when  you  speak  of  it!  The  old  time  glass  with  inter- 
secting canyons  cut  in  it  which  left  tell  tale  gouges  in 
one's  fingers,  is  dead  and  if  you  use  it  you  are  dead  too! 
Now  be  it  remembered,  it's  polished  engraved  alias 
rock  crystal. 

How  IT  Differs  from  Cut  Glass 

Cut  glass  is  decorated  with  geometric  lines  by  means 
of  steel  wheels  and  carborundum  used  for  the  cutting. 
Then  these  lines  are  smoothed  with  stone  wheels  and 
given  a  high  polish.  Some  manufacturers  press  in  the 
design  by  putting  the  glass  into  moulds  in  its  moulten 
state,  but  this  makes  the  cheaper  glass  commonly  called 
Pressed  to  imitate  the  cut  variety.  Then  the  glass  is 
cooled  and  the  effects  are  often  good  enough  to  fool  the 
ordinary  person.  Cut  glass  can  always  be  distinguished 
from  the  pressed  by  feeling  the  inside  of  the  cutting, 


172  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

where  it  is  the  deepest,  and  if  there  is  a  slight  lump  cor- 
responding to  the  cutting  it  is  surely  cut  and  not  pressed. 
Engraved  glass  is  thinner  than  the  cut  glass  very 
often  and  is  decorated  by  copper  wheels  fed  with  emery 
and  oil,  which  does  not  cut  so  deep.  The  skill  of  the 
designer  and  workman  are  the  only  limits  to  the  beauty 
of  this  glass.  This  kind  of  decoration  is  left  in  the  satin 
gray  finish  with  the  exception  of  the  polishing  out  of  the 
centers  of  the  flowers,  and  other  figures  according  to  the 
taste  of  the  engraver.  This  gives  the  contrasts  in  gray 
and  clear  glass  which  give  the  tonal  value  to  the  glass. 
And  when  the  engraving  is  sunk  deeply  and  then  pol- 
ished, it  is  called  rock  crystal  because  it  has  the  peculiar 
colorless  mat-finish  brilliancy  of  the  natural  rock  cry- 
stal. 

Colored  Glass 

"What  about  colored  glass  ?  There  is  much  of  it  about, 
some  of  it  the  frank  imitation  of  the  old  stuff  and  some 
of  it  the  real  old  thing.  It  is  very  popular.  The  rea- 
son it  isn't  epidemic  is  because  one  has  to  have  all  the 
fixings  with  it  to  use  it  well  and  to  be  au  fait.  Unless 
one  has  center  pieces  and  side  dishes  and  flowers  and,  to 
go  even  to  extremes,  old  chairs  and  antique  refectory 
tables,  colored  glass  gives  a  vagrant  restless  spotty  cast 
to  the  table!  You  know  what  it  means  to  have  every- 
thing en  rapport,  in  the  way  of  expenses  and  fussing 
these  days !  ...  to  the  majority  of  people  anyway.  And 
so  when  colored  glass  is  used,  even  if  one  has  all  the 
articles  necessary,  real  vision  must  be  employed  and 
discrimination  exercised  in  massing  everything  to  give 
the  ease  and  grace  (the  basis  of  beauty)  necessary. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  things  about  glass  to- 
day is  that  a  firm  in  America  has  been  taking  the  Grand 


GLASS  WEAR  17S 

Prix  and  the  Gold  Medal  in  a  competition  with  the  glass- 
makers  of  the  world  in  Paris!  And  some  of  the  best 
glass  is  made  in  little  old  America !  Talk  about  Ameri- 
can prowess !  And  too,  because  the  foreign  markets  have 
not  been  able  to  make  the  rather  staple  enamel  and  gold 
glass,  America  has  again  stepped  in,  and  has  been  en- 
gaged in  making  this  sort  of  glass  too,  and  making  it 
well. 

Some  very  old  and  exclusive  dealers  say  colored  glass 
is  not  in  vogue  because  these  firms  have  in  their  clientele 
very  selected  people  who  probably  do  not  buy  it  as  they 
have  inherited  all  they  need.  Furthermore,  many  of 
their  clients  don't  want  to  be  bothered  with  it.  But 
from  the  way  colored  glass  has  been  selling  in  some 
places  it  is  certainly  safe  to  say  it  is  very  popular. 
Yet  on  the  other  hand  many  dealers  are  afraid  to  stock 
up  heavily  with  it  because  they  fear  a  slump.  At  any 
rate,  the  manufacturers  can  hardly  keep  up  with  the 
demand  for  their  excellent  reproductions  of  the  old 
Scotch,  English,  Irish  and  Venetian  glass.  But  many 
hostesses  like  it  because  it  takes  such  taste  and  skill  to 
assemble  a  table  when  it  is  used. 

Cooking  Glass 

No  other  utensils  on  the  market  combine  as  these  do, 
beauty,  durability,  economy  and  cleanliness  even  if  the 
initial  cost  is  more.  You  see  they  save  fuel,  because 
they  cook  food  more  rapidly,  they  save  the  cook's  time 
and  the  waitress's  time  because  they  save  the  cooking 
time,  and  because  they  are  easy  to  clean,  collecting  no 
bum  to  be  forced  off  and  no  food  to  be  laboriously 
scraped  away.  Besides  all  this,  the  food  can  be  served 
directly  from  the  stove  without  putting  it  into  an- 
other dish  for  the  table.    This  saves  more  time  and  in- 


174  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

sures  hot  food.  It  doesn't  crack  in  the  oven,  it  comes 
in  many  styles — it  is  not  inexpensive  but  it  is  worth  the 
outlay. 

Plate-Glass 

Of  late,  plate-glass  has  been  taking  an  important 
part  in  the  household. 

This  glass  differs  from  other  glass  in  the  way  it  is 
made.  In  short  it  is  spread  over  iron  tables  in  a 
molten  state  and  cut  and  trimmed  to  measure.  It  is 
made  more  carefully  than  other  flat  glass  and  of  the 
finest  material.  It  is,  of  course,  very  carefully  annealed 
to  make  it  as  soft  and  as  little  brittle  as  possible. 

For  the  tops  of  bureaus,  dressing  tables,  desks, 
shelves,  medicine  cabinets,  etc.,  it  has  no  equal.  It  is 
easy  to  clean  and  protects  what  is  under  it.  Many  are 
using  it  now  for  the  tops  of  dining  tables  and  side- 
boards and  serving  tables.  This  is/  a  good  way  to  pro- 
tect the  table  and  save  laundry  as  beautiful  linens  shine 
through  the  glass  and  yet  do  not  soil  so  readily.  The 
same  can  be  said  of  the  glassed  bureau  scarf  and  the 
dressing  table  where  so  much  may  be  spilled. 

Some  people  who  do  their  own  work  like  plate-glass 
for  the  kitchen  table.  As  yet  we  feel  that  the  brittle- 
ness  of  plate-glass  makes  the  kitchen  table  a  little  too 
temporary,  yet  while  it  lasts  it  is  a  comfort  for  pastry 
work  as  well  as  for  anything  else. 

For  the  motor  it  reduces  danger  in  driving,  and  looks 
better.  For  the  house  doors  and  windows  it  adds  90 
per  cent,  to  the  elegance  of  the  lay-out. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

THE  bride's   kitchen 

WE  moderns  are  so  up  to  date  that  although  we 
expect  our  women  to  marry  they  know  less  of  the 
kitchen  needs  and  the  infant's  psychology  than  of  the 
constituencies  of  the  planets'  atmospheres.  So  to  cor- 
rect some  of  the  deficiencies  we  are  going  to  list  in  this 
article  the  prices  of  the  necessities  of  the  bride's  kit- 
chen at  the  present,  which  [you  must  remember  are  sub- 
ject to  daily  change  and  can  only  give  you  approximate 
values  as  this  book  reaches  you  months  after  the  data  is 
collected. 

To-day  prices  veer  so  rapidly  that  we  can  only  hope 
that  they  will  not  veer  upward  before  your  kindly  eye 
peruses  these  pages. 

Whether  you  use  electricity,  oil,  gas,  or  wood  should 
be  part  of  the  determining  factors  in  buying  utensils. 
For  this  reason  we  will,  as  far  as  possible,  designate  the 
special  uses  of  these  utensils  whenever  possible  or  neces- 
sary. 

May  it  be  said  at  the  start  that  aluminum  and  enamel 
(best  quality)  can  be  used  on  any  stove.  Aluminum  is 
more  expensive  but  doesn't  blacken  up  on  the  stove  and 
lives  longer  than  enamels.  We  will  not  take  up  cop' 
per,  as  it  is  too  heavy  and  costly  for  the  ordinary  kitchen 
and  takes  too  much  labor  to  keep  in  the  brightened 
condition  in  which  it  should  be  kept. 

We  favor  glass  whenever  it  can  be  substituted  for 
kitchen  utensils  as  the  most  ideal  oven  utensil.  If  your 
purse  can  stand  it  and  its  initial  expense,  it  will  save 
fuel,  time  and  energy  in  the  end  and  therefore  money. 

175 


176  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


The  Lists 

Our  omissions  in  this  listing  in  any  case  are  due  to 
personal  experience  and  choice  and  also  to  a  feeling  that 
there  are  many  things  that  can  be  omitted  when  the 
kitchen  is  started  and  be  put  in  later  when  exigencies 
appear  and  the  income  is  greater. 

We  have  purposely  not  added  up  the  list  to  get  an 
aggregate  expenditure  as  it  would  mean  little  when 
cheaper  or  more  expensive  materials  can  be  substituted. 
Therefore  we  have  given  but  the  individual  costs  which 
can  be  combined  in  the  ways  you  desire.  Thus  the 
list  is  meant  to  be  a  nomenclature  rather  than  a  hard 
and  fast  formula,  a  vade  mecum  rather  than  a  crystal- 
lized rule  of  thumb. 

You  may  consider  some  things  unnecessary  in  these 
lists.  Again,  the  list  is  a  personal  compilation,  as  lists 
are  as  yet  not  machine-made,  and  the  maker  has  consid- 
ered what  are  the  essentials  to  culinary  habits. 

Nor  have  we  mentioned  stoves  as  a  consideration  of 
the  first  tool  chest,  because  the  architect  or  the  landlord 
in  many  cases  has  decided  this  for  you.  If  you  need 
to  purchase  a  stove  your  choice  is  usually  bounded  by 
the  kind  of  fuel  which  is  cheapest  in  the  place  your 
spouse  has  necessarily  to  live. 

So,  although  utensils,  are  dependent  on  the  stove 
and  stoves  on  utensils,  we  have  omitted  the  stove  here 
but  if  you  read  chapters  VI,  VII,  VIII  you  will  get 
data  on  ranges  and  can  find  out  from  the  manufacturers 
the  present  cost. 

Cabinets  and  Conveniences 

"Were  we  fitting  out  a  kitchen  we  would  either  buy 
a  kitchen  cabinet  or  have  one  built  in  the  home  of  the 


THE  BRIDE'S  KITCHEN  177 

steel  unit  type.  "We  have  not  included  it  in  the  list 
for  fear  of  being  too  commanding,  and  it  can  be  dis- 
pensed with  if  the  shelving  and  hanging  room  is  suf- 
ficent ;  though  we  venture  to  say  not  quite  so  delightful 
will  be  the  kitchen  atmosphere  without  one.  The 
kitchen  cabinet  in  steel  costs  from  about  $92  upward; 
in  wood  $89  up. 

Devices  on  which  to  hang  the  pots  and  pans  and 
house  the  knives  in  frictionless  positions  are,  too,  omit- 
ted, because  these  things  vary  in  price  with  carpenter- 
ing and  the  amount  necessary  to  spend  in  room  and 
money.  It  is  the  only  way  to  house  utensils  ...  in 
the  open  air  where  they  are  visible  and  where  the  arm 
can  reach  and  where  the  back  is  not  unrelentingly  and 
unnecessarily  bent  in  the  performance  of  the  manifold 
duties  of  kitchen  usage. 

The  ice-cream  freezer  is  not  included  as  this  is  not 
an  essential,  unless  you  think  it  to  be  one.  It  is  to  be 
had  in  a  two-quart  measure  from  about  $4.90  upward, 
and  the  gallon  is  available  at  $7.50. 

In  some  instances  we  have  put  an  article  under  two 
heads;  trays,  for  example.  This  is  done  to  show  you 
that  the  two  articles  in  aluminum  or  tin  are  equally 
useful  and  if  the  cheaper  grade  is  desirable  it  is  a 
safe  *'buy." 

The  grapefruit  knife  may  be  a  glaring  omission — we 
hope  it  is.  Yet  as  it  is  not  strictly  necessary  we  have 
omitted  it.  If  this  little  joy  is  bought,  the  stainless 
steel  is  the  best  material  in  which  to  look  for  it.  It 
costs  about  75  cents.  And  as  soon  as  the  purse  is  large 
enough  and  the  manufacturers  have  come  to  the  point, 
stainless  steel  is  the  best  in  which  to  buy  nearly  every 
bit  of  cutlery,  as  it  requires  little  attention  and  neither 
rusts  nor  stains. 

Here  follow  the  lists: 


178  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


UTENSILS    IN    ALUMINUM 

Tea  kettle,  3  qts $6.15 

Quart   measure    2.00 

Double  boiler,  2  qts 4.05 

Funnel   90 

Ladle    2.25 

Pie  plate,  shallow 53 

Pie  plate,  deep 62 

Sauce  pans,  1  qtn  These     1.40 

Sauce  pans,  2  qts  Ihave       2.00 

Sauce  pans,  6  qts.J  covers    3.75 

Kettle  covers,  extra 

1  qt 25 

2  qts 44 

6  qts 62 

Pitcher   7.85 

Baking  dish    1.30 

Measuring  cup   60 

Dripping  pan  2.95 

Frying  pan  3,60 

Griddle  5.55 

Roaster   7.20 

Angel  caker 1.85 

Bread  pans 1.15 

Cake  pans 1.60 

2  Muffiners,  6  cups 1.65 

Steamer — fits  kettle 3.15 

Trays    $2.55,  3.20 

Jelly  cake  pan 1.20 

Jelly  mold 2.90 

Waffle  mold 6.65 

Strainer 1.20 

Dish  drainer 4.00 


THE  BRIDE'S  KITCHEN  179 

■  f  > 

UTENSILS  IN  ENAMEL 

2nd 
Grade 

Double  boiler $2.20  $2.20 

Colander 1.30  1.05 

Funnel 50  .40 

Ladle 45  .35 

Pie  plates 55  .40 

Measure  1.00  .80 

Uncovered  sauce                                                .55  .50 

pans 75  .60 

1.35  1.00 

Basting  spoons 30  .28 

Tea  kettle  3.00  2.55 

Mixing  bowls 95 

1.20 

Tea  pot 1.75  1.60 

Dipper 85 

Oval  dish  pan 2.40  1.85 

Soap  dish 55  .45 

Sink  drainer 75 

UTENSILS  IN  GLASS 

Three  kitchen  glasses $  .10 

Baking  dish  (oval) 55 

Baking  dish  (deep) 1.50 

Lemon  squeezer  with  holes 25 

Measuring  glass 15 

Spice  jars 

Casseroles   (according  to  taste  as  to  size  and  depth) 

range  in  price  form  2^  qts.  at 3.00 

to  ^qt.  at   1.25 

Individuals  at 75 

Pie  dishes,  shallow 90 


180  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Bread  pans $1.75 

Layer  cake  dish,  Qi/g" 90 

Custard  cups,  4  oz 25 

Fruit  jars,  1  qt 1.20 

Fruit  jars,  1  pt 1.05 

Glass  butter  crock,  1  qt 45 

Glass  butter  crock,  2  qts 70 

Glass  butter  crock,  4  qts 1.00 

EARTHENWARE 

Tea  pot  (medium  size)   $1.50 

Butter  crock 50 

Small  mixing  bowls  (two) 60 

Large  bowl 4.50 

Casseroles  (individual) 50 

Custard  cups,  per  doz 1.70 

JAPANNED  WARE 

Bread  box  $3.00 

Cake  box 4.00 

Dust  pan  63 

Flour  bin  (10  lbs.) 7.00 

Boxes : 

Tea    1.25 

Coffee    1.25 

3   Sugar 1.50 

Trays  (2) 75 

Salt  box 1.75 

TIN  WARE 

Flour  sifter  $  .56 

Grater 30 

Flour  scoop 30 

Biscuit  cutter 25 


THE  BRIDE'S  KITCHEN  181 

Apple  corer $  .18 

Nutmeg  grater 15 

Pastry  sheet   (10"xl7")    70 

Steamer,  fits  any  kettle 4.25 

IRON   WARE 

Garbage  pail   (galvanized) $1.00 

Poker  (coal  stove) 20 

Lifter  (coal  stove) 10 

Ash  can  (coal) 5.75 

WOODENWARE 

Mop  handle  and  mop $  .80 

Broom 1.70 

Chopping  Board 75 

Meat  board 1.25 

Bread   board 75 

Rolling  pin 35 

Pair  of  butter  pats 35-  .50 

Spoon 15   up 

Onion  chopping  board   (an  extra  board  not  so 

called  in  the  shops) 25 

Towel  rack 60 

Salt  box 1.25 

Step  chair 5.75  up 

Table,  all  wood   (3') 10.00  up 

Knife  board 1.00  up 

CUTLERY 

Scissors $2.25 

Silver  nickel 

3  knives  at per  doz.  4.00 

3  forks  at  per  doz.  4.00 

3  spoons  at per  doz.  4.00 


182  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Set  of  kitchen  cutlery  including 
One  1"  paring  knife 

"     3''  splitting  knife 

"     household  knife  and  fork  (fine  point) 

**     French  bladed  knife  for  general  work 

*'     6"  blade  for  tough  vegetables 

"     spatula  for  pastry 

* '    large  spatula  for  lifting  cakes,  candy,  etc. 
Two  carving  knives 

8"  blade,  stiff 

9"  flexible  slicer $5.00 

Measuring  spoons 38 

HARDWARE 

Ice   pick $.20   up 

Meat  skewers  (set) 35 

Metal  mesh  pot  cleaner 20 

Nut  cracker 75    up 

Can  opener 10    up 

Cork  screw 45 

BRUSHES 

Bottle  $     .15 

Ihist    2.63 

Pastry 70 

Refrigerator ^5 

Scrubbing .65 

SUver 3.63 

Sink 15 

Vegetable 12 

Stove 2.75 

WIRBWARE 

Egg     beater $  .25 


THE  BRIDE'S  KITCHEN  183 

Broiler  (coal,  oil,  wood  stove) $2.50 

Deep  fat  basket 1.60 

Potato  masher 25 

Puree  sieve 85  up 

FABRICS  AND  PAPER 

Cheese  cloth,  per  yd $    .38 

6  dish  towels  at 90 

6  dusters  at 50 

3  floor  cloths  at 40 

2  oven  cloths  at 15  -  .25 

Roller  towels 1.25 

RoUer  towel  rack 1.38 

6  glass  towels  at 1.25 

MACHINERY 

(When  possible  electric.    Prices  here  not  for  electric 
devices) 

Bread  mixer $  4.50 

Cake  mixer 4.50 

Meat,  nut  grinder 4.50 

Egg  beater 40 

Electric  fireless,  2  units , 

Electric   mixing   units — Price   on    inquiry   at   electric 

appliance  stores. 
Motors — Price  on  inquiry  at  electric  appliance  stores. 

GENERAL 

Pail  (12  qts.)    $2.38 

Scales  (with  scoop) 7.75 

Scrap  basket  (metal) 2.75 

Large  needles 35 

Labels  (per  box) 15 

Cork  (per  box) 15 


184  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Clock $2.50  up  to    9.00 

Paper — 

Shelves   (roll) 85 

Drawer    (roll) 85 

Wax    (roll) 50 

Napkins  (per  1,000)     $3.00  up 

A  SET  OF   UTENSILS   IN   ALUMINUM   SUITABLE  FOB  FAMILY 

OF  FIVE 

Tea  kettle   $6.50 

Double   boiler 4.05 

Straight  sauce  pan 4.05 

Straight  sauce  pan 2.35 

Sauce   pan   and   cover 1.40 

Preserving  kettle  and  cover 2.35 

Strainer     1.20 

Steamer   section    1.80 

Coffee  pot   4.15 

Fry   pan    3.60 

Pudding  pan    80 

Pudding   pan    1.30 

Bread  pan  . . ; 1.15 

Tubed  cake  pan 1.85 

2  jelly  cake  pans  (each)    1.20 

Corn  cake  pan  1.65 

Roaster    7.20 

2  pie  pans   (each) 62 

Measuring   cup    60 

Mountain  cake  pan   85 

3  boxes  "Wear-Ever"  cleanser 1.05 

Here  follows  what  a  first-class  aluminum  manufac- 
tory believes  to  be  a  complete  set  of  aluminum  for  the 
home.     This  shows  another's  ideal  of  essentials. 


THE  BRIDE'S  KITCHEN  185 

Tea  kettle   $7.05 

Double  boiler   4.05 

Sauce  pan  and  cover  1.40 

Straight  sauce  pan 2.00 

Straight  sauce  pan  2.35 

Sauce  pan  and  cover   1.88 

Preserving  kettle,  cover  3.62 

Strainer    1.20 

Steamer  section   1.80 

Coifee  pot  4.15 

Tea  pot   5.85 

Fry   pan    3.60 

Griddle    5.55 

WafiBe  mold    3.65 

Pudding  pan    80 

Pudding  pan  1.30 

Bread  pan    1.15 

Tubed  cake  pan  1.85 

Mountain  cake  pan 85 

2  jelly  cake  pans  (each)    1.20 

Corn  cake  pan 1.65 

Gem  pan  1.60 

Roaster    7.20 

2  pie  pans  (each)   62 

Measuring  cup    60 

Tray   1.65 

Water   pitcher    6.00 

Jelly  mold 2.90 

See  chapter  XL  for  suggestions  as  to  weights  and 
measures. 

China 

China  for  the  kitchen  can  be  had  at  varying  prices  de- 
pending largely  on  the  part  of  the  country  where  you 


186  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

live — from  ten  cents  upward  if  there  is  a  dime  shop 
around.  Yet  there  are  inexpensive  sets  to  be  had  from 
time  to  time  at  from  $20  upward — and  downward. 

It  isn't  always  necessary  to  buy  at  the  beginning  a 
whole  set  of  china  for  the  kitchen.  Six  of  each  thing 
ought  to  be  plenty  for  a  time,  counting  breakage,  which 
is  perennial. 

Platters  for  the  ice  box  in  enamel  are  excellent,  but 
if  you  have  extra  plates  for  kitchen  use  they  might 
(subject  to  easier  breakage)  be  utilized. 

The  Cook  Book 

Last  but  not  by  any  means  least  is  the  cook  book. 
For  what  availeth  it  if  you  have  utensils  by  the  score 
if  you  know  not  how  to  fill  them  and  manage  foods  in 
them? 

There  are  many  books  on  the  market  of  fame  and  re- 
pute, but  we  have  yet  to  see  one  for  the  beginner  that 
outdoes  the  Home  Science  Cook  Book,  by  Anna  Bar- 
rows and  Mary  B.  Lincoln.  Both  these  women  have 
cooked  and  lectured  and  taught  the  science  of  cookery, 
and,  what  is  more,  they  know  its  practise.  In  this  book 
are  to  be  found  simple,  brief,  successful,  economical 
recipes  and  methods  of  serving  which  in  their  very 
simplicity  knock  terror  out  of  the  culinary  life  for  the 
matrimonial  initate.  The  writer  of  this  article  has  had 
eulogies  heaped  upon  her  by  various  brides  and  even 
experienced  housekeepers  for  the  knowledge  given  them 
of  this  book. 


CHAPTER  XX 

CANNING  AND  PRESERVING 

TO  get  the  best  results  in  canning  and  preserving 
fruits  and  vegetables  (disregarding,  of  course,  the 
necessity  of  good  recipes,  for  this  is  not  a  cooking  his- 
tory in  any  sense  of  the  word)  you  must  use  the  best  set 
of  utensils. 

It  has  now  been  proven  that  the  process  of  packing 
fruits  and  vegetables  into  containers,  and  sterilizing 
them  after  packing,  is  a  better  method  than  the  old  way 
of  cooking  in  an  open  kettle,  transferring  hot  to  the  jar, 
and  sealing  without  further  sterilization.  Therefore, 
you  must  know  what  utensils  to  use  for  the  process 
(that  is,  the  final  application  of  heat  to  the  sterilized 
product)  as  well  as  for  the  packing. 

There  are  canners  made  for  the  express  purpose  of 
doing  this  work  and  they  must  be  chosen  for  the  amount 
of  work  necessary  to  be  done.  The  small,  hot-water 
canner  is  the  least  expensive  for  home  use  and  is  good 
for  fruits  and  tomatoes.  These  two  are  canned  in  this 
safely  at  the  boiling  point,  and  are  often  better  than 
products  processed  at  higher  temperature  in  other  can- 
ners. If  you  have  not  got  a  water-seal  canner  or  a  east- 
iron,  steam-pressure  canner,  or  a  small,  portable  hot- 
water  canner  (water  bath  canner),  you  can  use  a  wash 
boiler  or  bucket  or  an  aluminum  or  enamel  combina- 
tion roaster-canner,  or  an  enamel  or  aluminum  boiler,  if 
you  place  the  bottles  of  fruit  during  the  processing  on  a 
false  bottom  and  put  on  a  tight  cover. 

187 


188  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

The  false  bottom,  of  course,  is  best  made  of  strips  of 
wood  and  keeps  the  glass  jars  from  contact  with  the 
metal  container,  which  is  dangerously  near  the  flame. 
This,  of  course,  is  to  prevent  breakage.  You  can  use 
wire  netting  and  galvanized  trays,  which  must  be  raised 
V  to  2"  above  the  vessel  floor  to  permit  circulation 
of  water  underneath  the  jars. 

A  very  simple  steam-canner  is  on  the  market  now, 
made  of  copper  covered  with  nickel. 

The  Processes  of  Canning 

The  processes  of  canning  are  well  known — the  cleans- 
ing of  fruits  and  containers,  the  scalding  or  blanching, 
cold  dipping,  packing,  processing,  air  releasing  and  seal- 
ing. For  these  processes  the  following  articles  are 
used:  Colander;  steamer  for  blanching;  preserving 
kettle  when  preserving;  ladle,  measuring  cup;  funnel; 
canner  or  aluminum  or  enamel  roaster-canner ; 
strainer;  dipper;  silver  knife;  shallow  trays;  pans; 
vegetable  brushes  for  cleaning;  sieve;  squares  of  cheese 
cloth  also  for  blanching ;  wire  basket ;  teaspoon ;  spatula 
(a  most  convenient  pliable  blade  to  use  like  a  paddle  to 
let  air  out  of  the  jars  before  sealing)  ;  scales ;  and  saccha- 
rometer  if  accurate  work  is  necessary  in  preserving. 
Wooden  spoons  and  saucepans  are  necessary  if  the  pro- 
duct to  be  packed  is  to  be  cooked.  Also  the  indispen- 
sable handle  with  which  to  lift  the  jar  from  the  hot  proc- 
essing utensil. 

In  using  the  aluminum  roaster  and  canner  with  rack, 
fill  half  the  lower  pan  with  hot  water.  Place  the  rack 
in  position,  and  set  the  jars  on  the  rack.  Place  the  caps 
on  the  jars  lightly — do  not  screw  them  down  tight. 
Place  the  cover  on  the  canner,  being  sure  that  the  ven- 
tilator is  closed  tight  in  order  to  confine  all  the  steam. 

Only  one  burner  is  necessary  in  case  a  gas,  gasoline  or 


CANNING  AND  PRESERVING  189 

oil  stove  is  used.  After  the  water  begins  to  boil,  the 
flame  may  be  turned  down  one-third  to  one-half — just 
keep  the  water  boiling  nicely  for  the  proper  length  of 
time  as  per  schedule. 

When  the  time  necessary  for  sterilization  has  elapsed, 
remove  the  cover  from  the  canner,  and  the  jars  can  be 
taken  out  without  difficulty. 

Then  come  the  mechanical  parers,  hullers  for  straw- 
berries, stones  for  cherries,  corers  and  slicers,  all  valu- 
able when  the  products  to  be  preserved  or  canned  are 
in  sufficient  quantity  to  warrant  their  purchase.  Of 
course,  a  good  steel  knife  must  always  be  in  the  kitchen, 
and  a  thermometer  makes  work  less  haphazard,  for  the 
kitchen  without  a  thermometer  is  like  a  motor  car  with- 
out a  speedometer. 

Preserving  and  Canning  Jars 

Probably  of  aU  the  pernickety  parts  of  preserving  and 
canning  operations,  the  jar  question  is  the  most  jarring 
(pardon  the  pun,  but  it  truly  must  have  had  its  genesis 
here,  and  one  can't  refrain  from  putting  a  joke  back  on 
its  native  heath!). 

We  will  entirely  disregard  the  tin  container  because 
it  is  rarely,  if  ever,  used  in  the  home.  In  the  use  of 
glass  jars  the  same  attributes  of  construction,  efficiency, 
utility  and  economy  must  be  considered.  There  are 
numerous  brands  and  variations  of  these  brands  on  the 
market.  Sometimes,  in  a  canning  or  preserving  operat- 
ion, strange  to  say,  the  contents  of  five  jars  will  turn  out 
well,  and  the  sixth  will  be  a  failure.  This  is,  of  course, 
due  to  the  human  or  inhuman  equation.  Here  are  some 
of  the  types: 

1.  Glass  jars  with  metal  screw  tops  lined  with  porce- 
lain, made  more  air-tight  by  a  rubber  ring.  These  tops 
can  be  used  again  and  again. 


190  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

2.  Glass  jars  with  glass  tops  fastened  by  a  wire  clamp, 
plus  the  rubber  ring.  The^  tops  are  usable  again  and 
again. 

3.  Glass  jars  with  flat  metal  tops  held  on  temporarily 
by  a  metal  clamp  until  firmly  sealed  and  then  taken  off. 
These  look  neat  and  ship-shape,  but  the  top  must  be 
punctured  before  its  removal  and  therefore  new  caps 
must  be  bought  each  time. 

4.  Glass  jars  with  flat  metal  cap  over  the  rubber  ring 
and  a  bracelet  ring  with  thread  and  overlapping  top 
edge  which,  when  screwed  over,  holds  the  top  securely. 
These  tops  can  be  used  indefinitely. 

5.  Glass  jar  with  hermetic  seal  with  lacquered  metal 
top;  around  the  inner  edge  of  the  top  is  a  narrow  lin- 
ing of  a  composition  which,  when  heated,  softens  and 
sticks  to  glass,  and  while  the  adhering  is  going  on  a 
wire  clamp  holds  it  together  and  is  removed  after  it  is 
sealed.  It  is  self -sealing  but  you  are  unable  to  remove 
cover  if  for  any  reason  during  the  processing  it  has  to 
be  removed. 

The  government  has  this  to  say  about  the  types  men- 
tioned above: 

"If  the  old-fashioned  screw-top  jar  is  used  (No.  1), 
good  caps  are  essential  for  safety.  After  having  been 
used  the  edge  of  this  cap  becomes  flared  and  the  porce- 
lain lining  frequently  is  loosened  from  the  top.  This 
lid  then  not  only  is  difficult  to  sterilize  but  may  fail 
to  give  an  air-tight  seal.  If  such  jars  are  on  hand  and 
must  be  used,  it  will  be  better  to  use  them  for  the  can- 
ning of  fruits,  preserves,  and  other  products  which  are 
easily  processed  and  to  secure  jars  of  the  lightning- 
seal  type  for  vegetables  which  are  more  difficult  to 
preserve. ' ' 

In  preserving  it  is  always  well  to  put  a  three-ply 


CANNING  AND  PRESERVING  191 

hot  towel  underneath  the  jar  when  pouring  hot  material 
into  the  jar  to  insure  against  breakage — especially  when 
the  table  has  a  glass  or  porcelain-like  top. 

Sealing  Tests 

If,  after  twenty-four  hours,  the  seal  or  hermetic  jars 
can  be  lifted  by  their  lids  without  falling  from  grace  or 
from  anything  else,  the  seal  is  pretty  sure  to  keep  the 
contents  in  good  shape. 

Screw-top  jars  can  be  tested  by  inverting  in  order 
to  discover  leakage.  All  jars  should  be  tested  and 
reprocessed  if  jars  leak. 

Sad  to  say,  foods  in  the  best  seal  containers  are  often 
ravaged  by  the  culinary  Bolsheviki  which  are  bacteria 
forming  in  the  most  airless  jars.  Unless  all  the  bacteria 
are  killed  in  processing,  the  tight  seal  is  no  indication 
of  salvation. 

To  make  safety  surer,  the  laws  of  cleanliness  must  be 
observed  to  a  scrupulous  degree.  The  table  scoured  and 
covered  with  oil  cloth,  to  prevent  dirt ;  refuse  cans  near 
at  hand  to  prevent  any  accumulations  of  bacteria  or 
decay;  containers  and  tops  boiled  at  least  fifteen  min- 
utes before  using,  and  used  as  soon  after  as  is  possible, 
and  then  inverted  either  in  water  or  on  an  exquisitely 
clean  surface  until  used.  Rubber  rings  for  sealing  jars 
must  be  cleaned  immediately  before  using  by  dropping, 
for  one  minute,  into  a  boiling  solution  of  soda  and  water 
(one  quart  of  water  to  one  teaspoonful  of  soda)  and 
removing  quickly  from  fire  to  prevent  rubber  deteriora- 
tion. Buy  only  the  very  best  rubber  rings  on  the  mar- 
ket or  else  your  crop  may  fail.  New  rings  must  be 
bought  for  every  canning  and  preserving  process. 

Preserving  is  the  result  when  whole  fruits  are  cooked 
in  syrup  until  the  syrup  is  clear  and  transparent.    The 


192  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

object  is  to  have  the  fruit  thoroughly  permeated  with 
the  syrup.  Preserving  then  is  the  process  of  introduc- 
ing syrup  into  the  fruit. 

A  United  States  Government  authority  says:  "In 
order  to  prevent  shrinkage  it  is  necessary  to  put  fruit 
at  first  into  this  syrup  and  increase  its  density  slowly 
enough  for  diffusion  to  take  place  and  for  the  fruit  to  be 
permeated  with  the  syrup.  This  is  done  by  boiling  the 
fruit  in  syrup  or  by  alternately  cooking  and  allowing 
the  product  to  stand  immersed  in  the  syrup,  the  density 
of  the  syrup  being  increased  by  evaporation  or  by 
substituting  a  heavier  syrup  for  the  lighter  one  after 
each  period  of  standing.  If  at  any  time  the  fruit 
shrivels  or  wrinkles  the  syrup  should  be  made  less  dense 
by  the  addition  of  water.  If  this  process  be  carried  on 
gradually  enough  the  fruit  may  be  completely  saturated 
with  sugar  (as  is  the  case  with  crystallized  products) 
without  shrinking." 

Density  Measures 

When  there  is  much  preserving  to  do,  and  absolute 
accuracy  is  a  saver  of  money  and  time,  a  measure  is 
used  for  determining  the  density  of  the  liquids.  This 
is  called  a  saccharometer.  It  is  inexpensive,  about  the 
same  price  as  a  thermometer,  and  consists  of  a  long  glass 
spindle  like  a  thermometer  with  a  scale  on  it,  but,  in- 
stead of  mercury,  the  bulb  is  full  of  shot.  When  put  in 
a  vessel  of  water  it  rests  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  and 
registers  zero.  As  the  density  increases  the  spindle 
rises  until  the  solution  is  saturated  with  sugar  at  the 
temperature  indicated,  the  reading  being  one  hundred. 
This,  however,  is  the  Balling  scale.  The  Brix  scale  is 
more  accurate  and  is  more  expensive.  When  using  a 
saccharometer  use  a  250  cubic  centimeter  glass  cylinder, 
or  a  brass  saccharometer  cup  for  the  liquid. 


CANNING  AND  PRESERVING  193 

The  preserving  kettle  and  the  rest  of  the  list  of  tools 
can  be  used  for  preserving.  For  cooling,  enamel  or 
aluminum  trays  are  the  best.  Fruits  will  discolor  tin. 
When  jars  are  full,  as  mentioned  before,  slip  a  paddle, 
silver  knife  (silver  doesn't  discolor  fruit)  or  spatula 
through  the  fruit  next  to  the  container  when  packed  to 
remove  air  bubbles. 

Aluminum  Utensils 

Aluminum  is  light  and  enduring  and  contrary  to 
allegations,  cooking  acids  in  aluminum  utensils  does  no 
harm  whatever.  In  fact,  if  any  chemical  action  should 
take  place,  it  does  in  the  aluminum,  and  not  in  the  food. 
Chemists  use  it  to  cook  acids  in  sometimes  which  is  a 
proof  of  the  hardness  of  it  in  cooking  fruit  acids. 

If  compounds  were  formed  with  aluminum,  they  are 
entirely  harmless  and  have  no  more  effect  than  any 
of  the  organic  salts.  Salts  solutions  can  be  cooked  in 
aluminum,  but  don't  store  a  concentrated  brine  as  pick- 
ling mixtures  in  aluminum,  or  the  aluminum  may  be- 
come pitted. 

To  clean  aluminum  never  use  a  strong  alkali.  Steel 
wool  is  the  best  cleanser  on  the  market  at  present.  If 
when  a  utensil  is  washed  any  slight  stains  or  discol- 
oration on  the  inside  are  immediately  removed  with  some 
steel  wool  and  a  mild  soap,  it  will  be  kept  in  a  bright 
and  shiny  condition  all  the  time. 

Oxalic  acid  is  often  recommended  as  one  means  of 
removing  the  discoloration  from  aluminum,  as  it  unites 
so  readily  with  the  iron  or  mineral  deposit  which  some- 
times forms  on  the  aluminum  from  the  action  of  hard 
water.  This,  however,  we  do  not  generally  recommend 
as  it  is  not  a  safe  plan  to  have  it  around. 


194  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Enamel  Ware 

Enamel  ware  has  a  steel  basis  coated  with  porcelain. 
Probably  no  cooking  utensil  has  so  long  and  classic  an 
inheritance,  for  enamel  on  metal,  as  jewelery,  comes  to 
us  from  the  ancients,  but  it  is  not  until  modern  times 
that  this  process  has  been  used  for  cookery. 

The  porcelain  or  enamel  is  so  spread,  hardened  and 
annealed  or  tempered  that  it  is  about  as  elastic  as  the 
steel  and  therefore  does  not  break  or  crack  under  high 
temperatures.  But  the  cheaper  qualities  are  not  reli- 
able ;  consequently  buy  the  best.  There  is  no  chance  of 
appendicitis  in  using  enamel  ware  for  never  has  any 
intestinal  disturbance  been  found  to  have  originated 
from  chipping  enamel  (as  has  been  said  by  enamel's 
enemies). 

So  have  no  fear  about  using  good  quality  enamel  or 
aluminum  or  any  other  of  the  best  quality  utensils  sold 
to  you  by  reputable  manufacturers.  You  are  not  only 
safe  but  fortunate  when  you  can  afford  the  best  variety 
of  the  best  species. 

The  enamel  merchants  say  that  their  ware  is  decora- 
tive and  therefore  lends  charm  to  the  kitchen  because 
it  can  be  bought  in  blue,  green,  white,  gray,  maroon, 
etc.,  and  we  add,  too,  that  aluminum  is  decorative  and  it 
adds  a  silver-like  touch  to  a  well  put-together  kitchen. 

Enamel  is  cleaned  like  a  china  plate,  with  plain  water 
and  good  soap;  whereas  burn  adheres  more  tightly  to 
an  enamel  dish  than  an  aluminum  dish,  it  is  easily  re- 
moved and  the  upkeep  simple  and  swift,  adding  much 
comfort  to  the  housewife. 

In  the  purchase  of  any  utensil,  see  that  it  is  smooth, 
seamless,  crackless,  air-bubblele^s,  and  light  in  weight. 


CANNING  AND  PRESERVING  195 


Electric  Canning  and  Peeserving 

When  it  comes  to  canning  and  preserving,  the  elec- 
trically equipped  kitchen  is  splendidly  prepared  to 
handle  this  matter  with  the  greatest  ease  and  facility. 
Where  there  is  a  large  electric  range,  it  is  unnecessary 
to  have  any  additional  canning  machinery,  for  the 
sterilizing  of  the  jars  can  be  done  right  in  the  oven  of 
the  range.  The  jars  may  or  may  not  be  immersed  in  a 
water-bath,  just  as  it  suits  the  cook,  without  the  bath  is 
certainly  easier  and  quicker,  for  the  jars,  when  cold- 
packed  in  the  usual  way,  are  merely  set  on  a  rack  in  the 
oven.  In  this  case,  however,  care  must  be  observed  not 
to  keep  them  there  the  full  length  of  time  prescribed 
in  the  water-bath  method,  lest  the  rubber  rings  be 
scorched  and  afterwards  develop  defects. 

Failing  a  large  electric  range,  the  next  best  thing  is 
the  electric  fireless  cooker.  Into  this,  a  few  jars  may 
be  placed  at  a  time,  kept  at  "high  heat"  long  enough 
for  the  contents  to  reach  the  boiling  point,  when  the 
automatic  time-clock  attachment  will  then  throw  the 
cooker  on  the  "low"  for  the  sterilization  period.  This 
method  of  canning  is  particularly  desirable  for  subur- 
ban households  where  the  kitchen  garden  is  only  of  me- 
dium size ;  in  that  case  the  "crops"  usually  are  produced 
in  just  about  the  quantity  to  make  this  the  normal  way  of 
canning.  With  both  of  these  electrical  methods,  it  will 
be  noticed  that  there  is  no  huge,  cumbersome  and  heavy 
boiler  to  be  handled,  a  great  labor-saving  feature. 

In  the  electric  kitchen,  jams  and  marmalades  are  made 
in  open  kettles  on  top  of  the  stove,  or  for  that  matter, 
can  be  cooked  on  the  much  smaller  table  appliances. 
The  even,  dependable  temperature  furnished  by  elec- 
tric heat  is  appreciated  in  these  long,  slow-cooking  proc- 


196  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILil 

esses,  where  with  other  methods,  there  is  danger  of 
burning  unless  ceaseless  watch  is  maintained. 

In  some  of  the  new  stoves,  you  can  set  the  containers 
right  in  the  oven  (see  Gas  Ranges  Chapter  VII  also 
Electric  Ranges  Chapter  VI  and  Oil  Stoves  Chapter 
VIII).  This  is  a  great  saving  of  effort  to  the  woman 
without  a  maid,  as  in  this  way  the  canning  and  preserv- 
ing processes  can  be  much  simplified,  if  attention  is 
given  to  cutting  out  extra  utensils  and  processes. 

For  a  household  where  marmalade,  jelly  and  fruit- 
juice  making  is  carried  on  on  a  large  scale,  an  electric 
fruit-juice  extractor  adds  greatly  to  the  rapidity  with 
which  the  work  can  be  done. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

CASSEROLES  OR   THE   REVOLUTION   CtlLINART 

«*Q1INCE  my  daughter  came  back  from  driving  an 

O  ambulance  in  France  and  from  living  in  the 
various  towns,  she  has  not  only  brought  back  an  inter- 
national atmosphere  with  her  but  she  is  quite  a  Kitchen 
Red.  She  has  revolutionized  our  whole  culinary  sys- 
tem." 

' '  You  strike  terror  to  my  soul.  What  can  you  mean  ? ' ' 
I  said  with  amusement. 

"Well,  since  she  has  returned  she  is  keen  for  cutting 
down  unnecessary  effort  and  unnecessary  processes  and 
she  thinks  that  the  French  have  solved  the  simplifying 
of  cookery  by  the  use  of  the  casserole  or  casserole  system 
as  I  like  to  call  it ! " 

It  is  quite  true  that  these  fads  are  overdone,  gen- 
erally. But  this  is  no  fad,  as  it 's  been  popular  for  aeons, 
and  if  it  had  not  been,  why  should  you  not  give  it  a 
trial?  Because  a  thing  can  be  used  intemperately  is 
no  reason  why  it  should  not  be  attempted.  We  drink 
water,  yet  we  don 't  choke  or  drown  ourselves  very  often. 

In  these  servant  famine  days  where  people  either  have 
none,  one  or  a  very  depleted  staff  of  them,  processes 
must  be  cut  down,  handling  of  utensils  must  be  de- 
creased. Therefore,  cooking  in  dishes  that  can  be  used  on 
the  table,  and  coming  directly  from  the  stove,  cuts  the 
use  of  one  set  of  dishes,  of  washing  the  extra  dishes,  and 
as  these  utensils  are  of  pottery  or  glass  the  ease  with 
which  they  can  be  washed  cuts  this  process  in  half. 

197 


198  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

These  casserole  dishes  are  made  in  glazed  pottery, 
white  on  the  inside  and  you  can  buy  them  in  pretty 
nearly  every  color,  as  far  as  the  outside  is  concerned. 
Because  of  the  heat-conducting  attributes  of  pottery  long 
and  slow  cooking  is  the  result  of  their  usage.  This  fact 
is,  of  course,  their  greatest  asset,  because  slow  cooking 
is  necessary  to  bring  out  the  best  flavors  and  render 
food  more  digestible. 

Casserole  cookery — after  all  with  the  French  it  means 
really  a  kind  of  dish.  Adapted  to  our  use  as  men- 
tioned before,  it  is  a  system  by  which  cooking  is  done 
(slowly  in  the  casserole)  in  utensils  usable  on 
the  table.  Strictly  speaking,  casserole  cookery  is  cook- 
ing done  in  the  casserole.  The  French  use  the  cas- 
serole for  made-over  dishes  and  have  given  the  world 
a  fund  of  dishes  and  ideas  which  have  saved  much  money 
and  besides  given  much  pleasure.  This,  of  course,  is  a 
culinary  as  well  as  an  economic  feat.  And  probably 
one  of  the  best  uses  of  the  casserole  is  the  fact  that 
tough  cuts  of  meat  and  cheaper  grades  of  vegetables 
which  are  just  as  nutritious  as  the  expensive  are  ren- 
dered delicious  and  appetizing  by  this  slow  casserole 
cooking. 

The  appearance  of  these  dishes  is  enough  to  stimulate 
the  jaded  palate.  They  come,  too,  with  cases  made  in 
the  different  metals :  copper,  brass,  iron  and  silver.  The 
dish  as  it  is  taken  from  the  stove  is  slipped  into  one  of 
these  open-work  cases  and  gives  quite  a  finish  to  the 
table.  These  holders,  be  it  remembered,  are  not  neces- 
sary, but  for  that  reason  they  are  alluring. 

But,  people  are  prone  to  think  that  casserole  cookery 
means  living  on  stews  and  cheap  cuts  all  the  time. 
But  this  is  entirely  wrong,  as  you  can  bake,  roast,  boil 
and  braise  in  these  dishes.  Excellent  cake  and  bread, 
soup  and  fruits  can  be  cooked  and  all  very  delieiously. 


CASSEROLES  199 

Scalloped  dishes  and  marmites  and  things  in  rame- 
kins are  very  good,  too.  These  are  casserole  cookery, 
too,  only  those  dishes  are  for  the  most  part  "individ- 
uals," and  these  individual  dishes  are  often  made  in  the 
more  delicate  pottery  wares.  Naturally,  you  do  not  have 
to  use  the  family  size  alwaj'^s. 

They  are  so  made  that  they  do  not  break  if  you  use 
ordinary  common  sense  with  them.  When  they  are  new, 
they  should  be  set  in  very  cold  water  for  a  few  hours, 
let  the  cook  apply  gradual  heat,  never  sudden  heat,  and 
remember  that  she  must  not  put  them  on  or  in  the  stove 
without  something  in  them,  and  that  when  she  uses  them 
on  top  of  the  stove  she  must  put  asbestos  or  metal  trays 
under  them  to  insulate  them  from  too  direct  a  heat. 

Common  or  uncommon  sense  has  to  be  used  with  all 
cooking  utensils  to  lengthen  their  lives.  But  here  are 
some  of  the  good  points  in  casserole  cookery: — Less 
liquid  need  be  added  when  using  them  as  the  food  in 
long  cooking  cooks  its  own  juices;  left-over  foods  be- 
come delicious  in  them ;  freshly  cooked  foods  become  most 
appetizing;  the  tight  covers  keep  in  all  aroma  and 
flavor  (if  the  cover  doesn't  fit  tight  enough  a  little  flour 
paste  around  the  top  of  the  casserole  will  seal  it  com- 
pletely) ;  there  is  no  burn  to  remove  when  washing  these 
dishes  and  food  cannot  adhere  obstinately  to  cause  a 
loss  of  time  and  patience;  anything  that  is  to  be  re- 
moved is  very  evident  and  rubbing  it  off  the  smooth 
sides  is  very  rapidly  accomplished.  And  they  look  so 
well  after  they  are  cleaned  that  the  cook  is  well  repaid. 

In  buying  casserole  dishes,  you  should  be  sure  that 
they  are  smooth  on  the  inside  and  outside  with  no 
little  blisters  or  cracks.  The  best  casseroles  are  not 
expensive  and  it  is  very  encouraging  to-day  to  get  any- 
thing with  epicurean  attributes  at  proletarian  prices. 

Women  should  try  things  as  business  men  try  things 


200  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

when  they  are  cutting  down  expenses,  and  operations. 
And  it  doesn't  matter  how  wealthy  a  finn  is  either  when 
cost  reduction  can  be  made.  Isn't  it  queer  that  our 
wealthy  women  never  think  of  cutting  costs  in  their 
kitchens?  Yet  the  wealthy  firm  is  always  trying  to 
shave  costs. 

After  women  realize  that  slow  cookery  is  healthiest 
and  is  most  economical,  why  do  they  persist  in  being 
too  conservative  to  buy  new  things?  There  seems  to 
be  no  reason  except  that  they  may  unconsciously  feel 
that  were  they  to  begin  on  slow  cookery,  thejy  would 
adhere  to  it  so  rapidly  that  rapid  cookery  would  fade 
away.  It  may  be  recalled  that  some  housekeepers  in- 
sist upon  cooking  even  the  demi-tasse  in  paper  bags! 

But  to  save  the  rapid  cookeiy  processes,  the  glass 
utensil  has  been  bom  and  is  waxing  popular.  Rapid- 
ity is  its  chief  attribute.  By  this  rapidity  in  cooking 
there  is  a  saving  of  fuel,  and  as  the  utensils  are  taken 
directly  from  the  stove,  as  are  the  casseroles,  and  used 
on  the  tables,  there  is  the  same  saving  of  service  time. 
These  glass  utensils  bring  out  the  flavors  in  all  kinds 
of  foods ;  they  do  not  absorb  odors  or  gi'cases ;  they  are 
very  easy  to  keep  clean;  there  is  never  any  burn  to 
remove  and  one  can  always  see  inside  the  utensil  to 
find  out  how  the  food  is  faring ! 

On  first  thought  you  may  fear  breakage.  But  they 
don't  break.  They  are  strongly  guaranteed  against 
breakage  in  the  oven.  They  are  annealed  so  perfectly 
that  they  can  stand  intense  and  sudden  heat  and  not 
break.  Chauffeurs  from  France  came  back  with  great 
tales  of  safety  glass  which  is  used  on  motors.  This  glass 
rarely  breaks.  Even  if  hit  by  shrapnel  it  simply  cracks 
and  crazes.  This  fact  will  give  confidence  in  what  the 
scientific  manufacturers  of  glass  are  doing  to-day. 

This  cooking  glass  is  also  made  in  engraved  patterns 


CASSEROLES  201 

which  make  it  suitable  for  the  most  exacting  table  use. 

But  why  is  it  that  cooking  can  be  done  so  much  more 
rapidly  in  the  glass  ware  ? 

Because  the  glass  utensil  utilizes  by  the  nature  of 
glass  composition  every  bit  of  heat  in  the  oven  and  the 
metal  utensil  does  not.  This  is  proved  by  putting  a 
metal  and  a  glass  pot  in  the  oven  equally  full  of  water 
and  the  glass  pot  will  boil  very  soon  while  the  .  .  . 
you  can  guess  the  rest. 

Of  course,  this  glass  is  only  usable  in  the  oven.  It 
is  really  miracle  stuff  because  even  boiling  water  poured 
into  one  of  the  utensils  won't  break  it. 

Can  everything  be  cooked  in  this  ware  ? 

A  pretty  good  range :  light  omelets,  dried  fruit,  cake, 
bread,  meat  and  rechauffers.  The  glass  casserole  is 
very  much  in  vogue  at  present  because  the  glass  ware 
is  adaptable  to  slow  cooking,  too. 

It's  amazing,  isn't  it,  to  think  what  can  be  done  with 
glass  and  china  fire-proof  as  they  have  become!  Yet 
it  isn't  when  you  think  of  crossing  the  ocean  in  sixteen 
hours. 

But  what  is  amazing  is  that  some  women  are  so  slow 
to  investigate  and  are  willing  to  live  in  their  unexplored 
mediasval  culinary  ruts,  while  in  every  other  line  they 
seem  to  be  so  up  and  coming.  But  women  that  do  their 
own  work  are  far  more  forward  looking. 


CHAPTER  XXII 

FURNISHING  YOUR  KITCHEN 

FURNISHING  the  kitchen  sounds  simple  enough. 
But  it  is  not.  Everything  put  into  the  kitchen 
must  have  not  only  beauty  and  uniformity,  but  also 
utility,  durability,  tool  shop  convenience,  and  the  maxi- 
mum hygienic  attributes.  In  one  word,  the  furnishings 
must  have  absolute  utensibility. 

In  the  other  rooms  (save  the  bathroom)  you  can 
humorously  tell  your  decorator  to  do  it  in  early  Pull- 
man or  seriously  in  Louis  Quinze — and  all  will  be  well. 
Your  furniture  in  these  rooms  must  be  passably  durable, 
consistent,  and  beautiful,  but  it  need  not  be  unstainable, 
washable,  non-absorbent,  rigid,  non-corrosive,  etc.,  etc. 
Equipping  a  kitchen  is  like  equipping  a  medical  lab- 
oratory— skill  must  be  employed. 

The  Table 

Chief  among  the  furnishings  of  the  kitchen  are  the 
table  and  its  relatives.  They  have  to  be  rigid,  enduring, 
and  must  be  the  correct  size  for  the  job  and  the  correct 
kind  for  the  work  they  are  meant  to  do. 

The  table  has  been  the  storm  center  of  discussion  for 
years.  The  problem  is  this : — to  find  a  table  top  that  is 
non-absorbent,  easily  cleaned  (not  holding  stains  like 
an  artist's  palette),  not  brittle,  not  cracking  under 
changes  of  temperature  or  when  utensils  are  dropped 

upon  it. 

202 


FURNISHING  YOUR  KITCHEN  203 

For  if  you  are  doing  your  own  work,  you  do  not 
want  to  be  scraping  and  cleaning  all  day,  and  if  you 
have  servitors  you  will  want  them  for  more  productive 
work. 

This  is  a  big  order.  Teachers,  scientific  experts,  and 
manufacturers  of  laboratory  conveniences  (they  are 
never  called  kitchen  conveniences  in  these  circles! 
Would  this  nomenclature  help  the  servant  problem?) 
have  massed  their  findings  and  the  results  of  the  world- 
wide demand  for  a  practical  kitchen  table  top  are  the 
following : 

Enamel  Tops.  These  (and  their  confreres  vitrolite, 
etc.)  are  excellent  if  you  know  that  the  manufacturer 
is  good.  They  do  not  crack  or  craze  (fall  into  multi- 
tudinous vein-like  cracks)  and  break  with  ordinary 
usage.  The  enamel  is  baked  over  steel  or  iron  and 
should  be  at  least  three  coats  thick. 

Glass  Tops.  Not  for  general  utility,  but  well 
adapted  for  the  pastry  table  since  with  this  top  no 
special  pastry  board  is  needed.  Glass  tops  are  really 
very  beautiful  and  have  every  qualification  but  unbreak- 
ableness.  Some  new  patents  are  less  brittle  than  old 
makes. 

Marile  Tops.  Excellent  for  the  pastry  table,  and  if 
one  can  afford  them,  fine  for  most  things.  There  is  only 
the  remotest  chance  that  they  may  break  and  only  when 
they  are  less  than  2"  thick 

White  Metal  Tops.  Excellent,  non-corrosive,  flat 
coverings.  They  are  expensive  but  do  not  need  any 
nursing  to  keep  them  in  order. 

Zinc  Tops.  Very  much  used,  but  these  tops  buckle 
and  puff  and  are  very  much  affected  by  acids  and 
alkalis. 

Wooden  Tops.  Far  better  than  zinc  for  the  house- 
holder who  cannot  afford  the  other  tops.  The  wood 
can  be  treated  with  non-staining  varnish,  or  a  varnish 


204  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

that  can  stand  heat  without  being  annihilated,  and  you 
will  have  a  fine  table.  If  this  is  not  possible,  the  ordi- 
nary wooden  table,  fresh  from  the  shop,  if  covered  with 
linoleum  or  oil  cloth,  is  very  useful  and  durable,  es- 
pecially since  the  linoleum  can  be  changed  inexpensively 
and  often.  There  may  be  a  metal  binder  around  the 
wooden  table  top  if  desired. 

Composition  Tops.  These  need  a  guarantee  as  they 
are  often  of  glass  or  some  mixture  undefined. 

Tin  Tops.  These  are  not  used  any  more,  as  far  as  we 
know. 

Special  Tables 

The  ordinary  table  length  is  from  3'  to  7',  depending 
upon  the  size  of  the  kitchen.  There  are  usually  from 
one  to  three  tables  in  use, — more  often  two.  The  ordi- 
nary heights  are  from  32"  to  28".  Get  the  height  that 
fits  your  workers.  Be  sure  to  find  this  out  if  possible ; 
otherwise  you  will  have  to  make  a  later  arrangement. 

Maple  is  a  satisfactory  wood  for  strong  tables;  ash, 
and  pine  for  the  cheaper  kind  of  top. 

The  marble  top  table  is  the  royal  pastry  table,  which,  of 
course,  though  not  a  luxury,  is  an  extra  table.  Fancy 
a  seven  foot  marble  slab  2V^"  thick!  Isn't  it  like  an 
Alma  Tadema  conception!  The  pastry  table  usually 
has  a  rack  of  some  sort  beneath  it,  either  slatted  or  solid. 
This  rack  may  be  half  shelf  and  half  electric  plate 
warmer.  In  smaller  homes  the  pastry  table  of  3'  length 
is  the  most  convenient  with  a  somewhat  thinner  marble 
top  or  glass  top. 

The  top  of  the  cook's  table  is  sometimes  divided  into 
two  parts,  one  part  made  of  marble  or  glass  for  pastry 
work  and  the  other  part  of  polished  wood  for  ordinary 
pursuits.  This  effects  the  saving  of  a  table  if  the  cooks 
do  not  squabble  or  there  is  but  one  cook  and  little  room ! 


FURNISHING  YOUR  KITCHEN  205 

The  cook's  table  is  placed  opposite  the  range  and  has 
a  7'  pot  rack  attached. 

The  legs  of  most  of  these  high-grade  tables  are  tipped 
with  metal  to  keep  them  unspotted  from  the  washings 
of  the  floor.  The  trimmings,  too,  are  of  the  same  metal, 
formerly  called  German  silver. 

It  would  not  be  a  bad  idea  to  have  a  metallic  tip  of 
some  sort  put  on  the  legs  of  the  less  expensive  tables, 
to  keep  them  from  wearing  and  to  maintain  a  rigidity 
well  beloved  in  tables.  For  there  is  no  happiness  in 
table  tipping  outside  of  the  spiritual  seance! 

Kitchen  Cabinets 

A  kitchen  cabinet  (see  also  Chapter  XXVII,  Kitchen 
Cabinets)  is  a  thing  of  duty  and  joy  forever.  It  is  the 
first  cousin  to  the  table  and  really  is  but  the  table  ex- 
tended and  expanded  into  drawers  and  shelves  and 
closets.  It  signifies  the  demand  of  the  modern  house- 
wife for  a  shipshape  tool  chest  with  all  the  materials 
ready  to  her  hand  so  that  there  may  be  no  reaching, 
stretching,  or  relay  races  around  the  kitchen  in  the 
preparation  of  the  recurring  daily  meals. 

For  the  most  part  these  cabinets  are  moveable.  That 
is,  they  are  not  built  into  the  walls  of  the  room.  At 
present,  however,  architects  are  planning  for  them  as 
stationary  and  essential  parts  of  the  kitchen  equipment. 

Materials 

Steel  and  wood  are  the  materials  out  of  which  the 
cabinet  is  made.  The  steel  ones  are  better  in  many 
ways  than  the  wooden  types  because  they  are  easier  to 
clean  and  are  more  protected  against  vermin.  However, 
the  wooden  cabinets  which  are  built  with  rounded  cor- 
ners are  a  close  second  to  the  steel  cabinet,  since  these 


206  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

corners  cannot  become  a  receptacle  for  food  waste  and 
are  practically  vermin  proof.  Wooden  cabinets  are 
finished  in  a  hard  enamel  paint  and  can  be  washed  with 
impunity. 

Some  kitchen  cabinets  are  equipped  with  a  rolling 
door  which  folds  upwards ;  others  have  swinging  doors. 
The  swinging  door,  although  it  extends  into  the  room  a 
few  inches,  has  the  convenience  of  being  able  to  hold 
extra  little  racks  for  extra  little  things,  such  as  small 
bottles,  market  lists,  and  the  like. 

Never  fill  your  cabinet  too  full  of  things,  as  they  are 
prone  to  fall  down  and  jangle  the  nerves  of  the  worker, 
thus  really  defeating  the  purpose  for  which  the  cabinet 
is  built,  which  is  maximum  convenience. 

Besides  the  table  top,  which  is  used  as  a  molding 
board,  there  are  places  for  the  flour  bin,  sugar  con- 
tainer, bread,  cake,  pots,  pans,  rolling  pin,  cutlery,  jars, 
dishes,  marketing  slips,  and  even  the  favorite  cook  book. 

The  kitchen  cabinet  is  a  boon  to  the  small  housekeeper 
and  is  becoming  so  appreciated  for  its  concentration 
of  work  and  saving  of  steps  that  even  the  owners  of 
large  homes  insist  on  installing  it.  That  is  why  archi- 
tects are  including  the  kitchen  cabinet  in  their  plans. 
It  means  a  saving  of  75%  of  toil  and  thus  becomes  a 
factor  in  making  servants  willing  to  stay  with  you. 

Where  there  are  no  servants  employed  you,  Mrs.  Wife, 
get  the  benefit ! 

There  are  many  smaller  cabinets  on  the  market.  The 
sink  closet,  which  contains  all  the  sink  soap,  swabs  and 
brushes,  a  real  convenience  indeed,  as  is  the  long  and 
narrow  broom  closet,  for  brooms  and  cleaning  materials. 
Until  you  have  your  brooms  properly  garaged  your 
nerves  never  will  be  entirely  rested. 

Dealers  and  manufacturers  are  ready,  in  fact,  to 
make  any  sort  of  a  cabinet  for  you  if  they  are  not  in 


FURNISHING  YOUR  KITCHEN  207 

stock.    Don't  be  bashful,  get  what  you  need  for  your 
kitchen — but  never  get  more  than  you  can  use. 

Small  neat  white  cabinets  are  made,  to  fit  corners  as 
well  as  flat  spaces,  and  give  the  kitchen  the  efficient, 
clean  look  of  the  laboratory. 

Shelving  Units 

Steel  shelving  and  built-in  kitchen  cabinets  are  grow- 
ing more  and  more  popular.  Stationary  shelves,  built 
once  and  for  all,  can  be  installed,  or  you  can  begin  with 
a  few  units  and  as  you  require  more  they  can  be  bolted 
on  to  what  you  have,  just  like  sectional  bookcases. 

These  shelves  are  cover'ed  with  three  coats  of  enamel 
baked  on  steel  and  very  durable,  having  the  same  quali- 
ties as  the  good  table: — rigidity,  non-absorption,  and 
ease  in  cleaning. 

They  are  the  parallel  of  the  steel  filing  case  in  the 
office — and  that  is  another  sign  that  the  kitchen  is  be- 
coming as  systematic  as  the  business  sanctum.  Just  as 
soon  as  the  home  approximates  the  efficiency  and  stand- 
ardization of  the  office,  just  so  soon  will  the  servant 
problem  cease  to  be.  But  we  are  not  discussing  the  mil- 
lennium in  this  chapter. 

The  shelves  can  be  made  with  or  without  doors.  Of 
course  doors  are  a  little  help  in  the  fight  against  dust, 
yet  even  they  are  not  infallible  enemies  of  this  household 
nuisance. 

Very  often  under  the  shelves  the  plate  warmer  and 
the  refrigerator  are  placed.  Their  close  proximity 
shows  that  the  refrigerator  is  insulated  against  the  heat 
and  the  plate  warmer  is  insulated  against  the  cold. 
This  is  really  an  object  lesson  in  the  possible  self- 
identification  of  good  apparatus. 

This  arrangement  will  work  well  both  in  the  pantry 
and  in  the  kitchen. 


208  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Wooden  shelves  are  less  expensive  than  the  steel  ones, 
but  require  careful  attention,  frequent  cleaning,  and 
new  coverings  at  intervals. 

Plate  glass  shelves  are  being  used  of  late. 

Plate  "Warmer 

In  speaking  about  the  above  luxurious  pastry  and 
cook's  tables,  we  toutshed  on  the  matter  of  plate  warm- 
ers. 

In  small  homes  plate  warming  is  accomplished  by 
ovens,  oven  tops,  or  warming  plates  arranged  above  the 
ovens  or  stove.  In  larger  homes,  however,  where  guests 
are  many  and  often  and  plates  and  dishes  multitudinous, 
the  electric  plate  warmer  has  come  to  do  the  work. 

It  may  be  under  a  table,  as  you  have  seen  above  or  it 
may  be  a  separate  entity. 

The  doors  of  the  plate  warmer  are  generally  of  the 
sliding  variety  and  are  of  a  special  make  of  iron, 
trimmed  with  steel  or  white  metal.  The  interior  of  the 
warmer  is  perfectly  insulated  with  asbestos  and  other 
materials.  It  does  not  warm  the  kitchen.  This  is 
proved  by  the  possibility  of  its  being  placed  next  to  a 
refrigerator  without  any  bad  results  to  the  ice. 

There  is  a  little  ruby  pilot  light  which  tells  you  if  the 
electricity  is  on  or  off,  thus  obviating  the  chance  of 
unnecessary  heat  getting  out  when  you  wish  to  find  out 
whether  the  warmer  is  functioning  or  not. 

The  electric  warmer  usually  stands  a  little  higher 
than  a  table,  but  does  not  alter  the  size  of  the  table  when 
built  underneath  it. 

Chairs  and  Stools 

Since  the  kitchen  is  in  no  way  a  lounge,  the  chair  in 
the  kitchen  is  really  only  another  tool  to  assist  in  the 


FURNISHING  YOUR  KITCHEN  209 

work  or  possibly  to  permit  a  few  moments  of  relaxa- 
tion. Of  course,  it  is  quite  obvious  that  in  some  kitchens 
which  are  a  combination  sitting  room,  living  room  and 
dining  room,  the  chair  and  even  the  couch  are  real  com- 
fort factors.  However,  this  type  of  room  is  not  being 
considered  here. 

In  the  kind  of  kitchen  we  are  furnishing  the  ordinary 
modified  Windsor  chair  is  as  good  a  model  as  any  we 
know,  and  can  and  should  be  finished  to  match  the  rest 
of  the  kitchen. 

The  stool  is  most  convenient  and  should  be  about  24" 
in  height,  because  a  worker  can  work  efficiently  while 
sitting  on  this. 

The  chair  step-ladder  is  convenient  in  rooms  in  which 
you  have  had  to  build  high  shelves  for  sufficient  storage 
room,  lack  of  space  being  the  only  excuse  for  such  un- 
reachable shelves. 

There  is,  too,  the  ladder-stool,  which  serves  the  same 
purpose  as  this  chair  step-ladder  combination. 

The  little  wooden  step  is  a  convenience  if  perchance 
your  kitchen  maid  is  not  an  Amazon  and  needs  a  few 
more  inches  added  to  her,  or  if  your  cook  happens,  too, 
not  to  be  of  heroic  mold. 

In  small  kitchens  the  settle-table  is  a  convenience. 
For  when  a  bench  is  needed  it  can  be  used  as  a  bench, 
and  presto !  when  a  table  is  needed,  it  is  quickly  changed 
into  a  table — the  two  things  taking  but  the  space  of  one. 

Mats 

Stone,  composition,  tile,  and  even  wood  floors  are 
often  very  trying  to  the  feet  and  back  of  your  kitchen 
denizen.  A  strip  or  two  of  linoleum  or  cork  is  a  great 
relief  as  it  adds  to  the  unrelenting  floor  a  little  elasticity 
and  resiliency  which  takes  the  strain  off  the  feet  and 
makes  for  comfort  and  ease.    These  materials  are  the 


210  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

best,  for  they  are  washable  and  non-absorbent,  and  they; 
add  rather  than  detract  from  the  beauty  of  the  sur- 
roundings. If  the  strips  are  not  usable,  mats  can  be 
bought  or  made  for  the  space  to  be  filled. 

Matching  Up 

It  is  quite  as  possible  to  have  uniformity  in  your 
kitchen  as  well  as  in  your  other  rooms.  Even  if  the 
kitchen  must  be  fixed  up  after  the  architect  has  done 
his  worst,  you  can  at  least  have  the  same  color  scheme 
throughout. 

There  are  on  the  market  to-day  kitchen  furnishings 
to  suit  every  pocket,  so  there  is  really  little  excuse  for  a 
kitchen  to  look  heterogeneous  and  messy.  Furnishing 
a  kitchen  is  a  most  tempting  problem,  especially  with 
not  too  full  a  purse.  The  trouble  is  mostly  that  people 
who  know  nothing  about  a  kitchen  always  furnish  it, 
because  it  is  considered  easy.  It  isn't  easy.  Even 
after  furnishings  are  bought  if  they  are  not  placed 
well  they  are  of  as  little  value  as  if  they  did  not  exist. 

In  getting  household  apparatus  the  first  and  great 
demand  is:  Know  your  manufacturer.  And  the  sec- 
ond is  as  important :  Buy  the  best  you  can  afford  after 
the  most  careful  thought,  and  be  very  sure  where  it  is 
going  to  be  placed  when  you  get  it. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

KITCHEN   COSMETICS 

LIKE  women,  kitchens  must  be  made  up  continuously 
to  be  kept  up.  Like  women,  the  fairer  and  even 
blonder  they  are  the  more  attractive  they  seem  to  be; 
but  unlike  women,  they  must  never  be  applied  with  pow- 
der (as  a  beautifier)  or  with  oils,  varnishes  and  paints 
which  for  any  reason  disintegrate  into  powder. 

Every  Domiologist  (the  author's  coinage  for  home 
scientist)  likes  a  light,  clean,  glistening  kitchen.  Oils, 
paints  and  varnishes  and  their  relatives,  enamels, 
shellacs  and  lacquers,  do  the  trick. 

This  article  is  not  going  to  teach  you  to  be  a  painter, 
but  ought  to  give  you  the  salient  facts  of  kitchen  "make 
up,"  which  every  Domiologist  should  have  in  her  men- 
tal, if  not  actual,  filing  case. 

Furthermore,  in  the  maidless  or  maided  house  the 
basic  supply  of  to-be-cleaned-things  must  be  as  nearly 
self-supporting  as  possible.  Hence  a  smoothly  varnished 
wood-work  and  un-peeling  painted  wall  or  ceiling  will 
go  a  long  way  to  simplifying  the  care  of  the  kitchen, 
yea  the  whole  house. 

Briefly,  paint,  according  to  Wood,  is  any  liquid  or 
semi-liquid  substance  applied  to  any  metallic,  wooden 
or  other  surface,  to  protect  it  from  corrosion  or  decay 
or  to  give  color  or  gloss  or  all  of  these  qualities  to  it. 
Note  the  stress  on  the  protective  quality. 

According  to  Heckel:  Paint  is  a  mixture  of  opaque 
or    semi-opaque    substances    (pigments)    with    liquids, 

211 


212  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

capable  of  application  to  surface  by  means  of  a  brush 
or  a  painting  machine,  or  by  dipping  and  forming  an 
adherent  coating  thereon. 

House  paints  are  made  of  pigments,  drying  oils 
(volatile  or  thinners),  driers  or  "Japans"  and  varnishes. 
Pigments  are  divided  into  white  bases  (like  oxide  of 
zinc,  the  most  important),  inert  reinforcing  pigments, 
natural  earth  colors,  chemical  colors,  pigment  lakes, 
etc. 

Varnish  enhances  the  beauty  of  surface,  protects 
them  from  injury,  increases  the  luster  or  hardness  of 
other  coatings,  excludes  moisture  and  gases,  vapors  and 
other  atmospheric  agencies  of  decomposition  or  decay. 

Preventives  of  Disease 

Paint  and  varnishes  in  the  main  have  been  thought 
to  be  beautifiers  only,  but  in  reality  they  are  much  more 
than  this,  for  they  are  very  complete  means  for  the  main- 
tenance of  sanitary  conditions  in  the  kitchen  and  are 
made  for  application  on  metals,  cement,  concrete,  plas- 
ter, wood,  etc.  Therefore,  there  is  nothing  in  the 
kitchen  that  cannot  be  re-surfaced  if  necessary. 

Cracks  and  holes  spell  vermin  and  germ  traps,  which 
make  efficient  distribution  centers  for  disease.  Here  is 
where  paints  and  varnishes  and  the  adjuncts  not  only 
fill  the  cracks,  but  fiU  the  bill  before  the  physician  has 
time  to  send  his. 

The  best  blanket  dictum  to  remember  is  that : 
Cleanliness  is  next  to  hole-iness.  Fill  up  the  holes, 
cracks,  splits,  roughnesses  and  unevennesses.  Render 
all  surfaces  non-porous  by  application  of  liquid  paint 
fillers.  But  before  all  else,  scrape  and  pumice  and  wash 
surfaces  with  good  old  soap  and  water.  Benzine  is 
very  often  not  sufficiently  efficient  in  preparing  for 
paint  applications.    Evenness,  cleanliness,  non-porous- 


KITCHEN  COSMETICS  213 

ness,  these  three,  and,  to  be  Irish,  the  greatest  of  these 
is  elbow  grease — the  best  of  all  kitchen  cosmetics  applied 
in  preparation  and  in  brushwork. 

Choose  the  Mamtjfacturer  First 

"What  criterion  have  we,"  asks  the  Domiologist,  "in 
the  choice  of  paints?" 

The  answer  is, ' '  Choose  the  manufacturer,  then  choose 
the  paint." 

No  household  has  a  laboratory,  and  the  widest  adver- 
tised paint  brands  have  stood  the  test.  Consequently, 
a  can  opener,  the  paint,  and  an  all-seeing  eye  to  keep 
abreast  of  the  advertisements  are  the  requirements  for 
the  pocket  laboratory.  But,  the  standard  for  any  paint 
is  the  overworked  word  "service."  If  the  paint  you 
and  your  friends  have  used  does  not  wear,  get  another 
make.  But  by  all  means,  do  not  use  these  things  blindly 
any  more  than  you  would  use  face  powder  without  know- 
ing the  bi»and.  Buy  the  best.  In  no  other  household 
commodity  is  this  advice  more  important. 

Sometimes  the  best  paints  and  varnishes  deteriorate 
in  storage  or  transit,  by  being  kept  in  too  cold  a  room, 
and  may  be  explosive  if  treated  with  too  high  a  tempera- 
ture. 

Paint  Rules 

In  buying  paint  it  will  do  no  harm  to  bear  in  mind : 

1.  That  one  gallon  of  paint  should  be  distributable 
over  an  area  (in  two  coats)  of  300  square  feet. 

2.  A  good  paint  should  produce  a  surface  that  is 
neither  too  hard  nor  too  soft.  Surfaces  that  are  too 
hard  are  prone  to  chipping  and  cracking  or  splitting. 
Sometimes  they  remain  sticky  if  they  are  too  soft,  or 
chalk  or  powder  or  flow. 


214  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

3.  The  average  life  of  a  good  application  of  good 
paint  is  four  years.  It  ought  to  last  fifteen  years, 
but  to-day  in  our  apartments  we  are  glad  if  it  lasts 
one  month.  Three  years  is  the  minimum,  but  a 
simple  pigment  paint  frequently  plays  out  in  three 
years. 

4.  That  paint  must  be  durable  in  color  and  should 
last  at  least  four  j'^ears  under  normal  conditions. 
Good  floor  paints  and  varnishes  can  stand  dragging 
furniture,  walking,  hot  utensils,  steam,  water,  even 
alcohol  and  greases. 

5.  That  good  paints  should  leave  surfaces  suitable 
for  repainting,  which,  being  interpreted,  means  that 
the  old  paint  should  be  still  unbroken,  making  paste  or 
liquid  fillers  practically  unnecessary. 

Paste  fillers  with  or  without  color  are  used  to  fill 
deep  cracks,  etc.,  not,  however,  caused  by  broken  paint 
surfaces,  but  by  faulty  construction,  warping,  blows  in 
plaster,  wear,  and  such  injuries. 
The  common  iUs  which  are  met  with  in  paint  life  are : 

1.  Peeling,  cracking  or  powdering,  due  to  imperfect 
attachment,  probably  on  greasy,  damp  or  over  artifi- 
cially heated  surfaces  from  which  the  moisture  is 
driven  up  through  the  paint. 

2.  Blistering,  due  to  underlying  vaporized  mois- 
ture. An  excess  of  volatile  oil  prevents  this.  It  often 
occurs  on  incompletely  dried  lumber,  and  often  light 
or  some  chemical  agency  is  the  cause. 

3.  Alligatoring,  incipient  cracks  due  to  heavy  coats 
of  paint  applied  to  unseasoned  wood  especially  if  the 
paint  is  drier,  tougher  or  more  elastic  than  the  under 
coats. 

4.  Wear.  This  is  the  only  legitimate  ill,  if  it  takes 
place  after  the  allotted  period  of  its  life. 

The   common  epidemics  in  varnish  life   are   bloom 


KITCHEN  COSMETICS  215 

(opalescence),  blistering,  spotting,  cracking,  sweating, 
powdering,  livering,  crawling  (refusal  to  spread),  flask- 
ing,  deadening  (loss  of  luster),  pitting,  silking  (looks 
like  enameled  silk),  seedy  or  specky,  wrinkling,  grain 
showing,  crumbling,  all  due  to  imperfect  preparation  of 
surfaces  and  the  presence  of  moisture,  greases,  poor  var- 
nishes, poor  application  of  good  varnishes,,  different 
brands  of  varnishes  put  together,  increase  or  decrease 
of  temperature  in  drying  or  storage  or  transportation, 
etc. 

There  are  hundreds  of  kinds  of  varnishes  divided 
into:  oil  varnishes,  spirit  varriishes,  japans,  enamels 
and  specialties. 

In  house  finishing,  oil  varnishes,  enamels,  painter's 
Japans  and  sometimes  spirit  varnishes  (shellac  and 
dammar  varnishes). 

Lacquers  are  highly  transparent  varnishes  used  on 
metals  to  produce  a  lustrous  film. 

Japans  (decorative)  are  dark  varnishes  applied  to 
metals  and  wood. 

Japans  (painter's),  are  varnishes  added  to  paints  for 
luster  and  drying. 

Employ  an  Expert 

So  it  can  readily  be  seen  that  the  painting  and  var- 
nishing of  the  kitchen  should  be,  if  nothing  else,  given 
over  to  experts.  The  painter  should  understand  these 
requirements.  "The  priming  coat,"  says  Heckel, 
"being  the  one  on  which  the  adhesion  of  the  entire  paint 
film  depends,  should  be  most  carefully  considered.  It 
should  be  sufficiently  liquid  to  penetrate  every  pore  and 
irregularity  of  the  surface,  carrjing  with  it  particles 
of  the  pigment ;  but  this  fluidity  must  not  be  obtained 
at  the  cost  of  the  future  strength  of  the  dried  film.  For 
the  priming  coat  it  is  customary  to  add  a  quantity  of 


216  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

oil  and  some  turpentine  or  benzine  or,  in  the  case  of 
cypress,  yellow  pine  and  resinous  woods  in  general, 
some  form  of  benzol.  It  is  easy  to  overdo  both.  Only 
enough  of  the  volatile  thinner  should  be  used  to  avoid  a 
high  gloss,  to  which  subsequent  coats  vsdll  not  readily 
adhere.  Hard,  unabsorbent  woods  require  a  thicker 
priming  coat  than  spongy  woods,  such  as  poplar,  soft 
pine,  etc.  Resinous  woods,  like  yellow  pine,  again  re- 
quire special  treatment — a  preliminary  varnishing  of 
knots  and  resinous  spots  with  shellac,  and  subsequent 
priming  with  a  fluid  priming  coat  containing  a  benzol 
product. 

"The  second  coat,  which  in  many  instances  is  also 
(improperly)  the  finishing  coat,  should  be  tempered 
accordingly.  If  there  are  to  be  three  coats  (as  there 
should  be),  the  paint  should  be  lightly  reduced  with 
turpentine  or  benzine,  so  as  to  promote  amalgamation 
with  the  priming  coat,  and  to  reduce  the  surface  gloss. 
If  it  is  to  be  the  finishing  coat,  'prepared  paint  of  the 
average  consistency  can  be  used  without  reduction, 
but  a  very  little  turpentine  is  sometimes  desirable  to 
assist  penetration  and  adhesion. 

"The  third  or  finishing  coat  should  usually  be 
employed  as  it  comes  from  the  can.  In  the  cas^  of  all 
coats,  thorough,  hard  brushing  is  essential,  and  a  round 
brush  is  always  preferable  to  a  flat  brush.  The  failure 
of  paint  is  frequently  due  to  insufficient  'elbow  grease' 
with  the  brush. 

"Every  coat  of  paint  should  be  completely  dry 
throughout  before  the  next  coat  is  applied;  but  it  is  a 
mistake  to  allow  a  priming  coat  to  *  weather '  and  become 
weakened  before  painting  is  continued. 

"Too  much  drier  or  Japan,  or  cheap  rosin  Japans, 
are  at  the  bottom  of  many  paint  failures.  The  manu- 
facturer of  a  scientifically  prepared  paint  will  Intro- 


KITCHEN  COSMETICS  217 

duee  the  proper  kind  and  quantity  of  driers  into  his 
formula,  and  none  should  be  added  in  use." 

A  fit  condition  of  surface  is  obtained  by : 

(1)  By  delaying  the  application  of  the  priming  coat 
until  the  wood  is  thoroughly  seasoned,  unless  seasoning 
has  been  properly  attended  to  in  the  lumber;  secondly, 
by  seeing  that  the  plaster  on  the  inside  of  the  building  is 
completely  dry  before  painting  is  begun  on  the  outside. 
A  new  house  should  have  been  heated  some  weeks  before 
it  is  painted.  In  an  old  house,  leaking  spouts,  etc., 
should  be  repaired  and  the  adjacent  wood  allowed  to  dry 
thoroughly  before  repainting.  Thirdly,  by  avoiding 
the  application  of  paint  in  moist  weather  or  when  the 
atmospheric  moisture  is  high.  Fourthly,  by  selecting  a 
dry,  mild  season,  as  late  spring  or  early  fall,  rather  than 
a  cold  or  hot  season,  as  winter  or  mid-summer,  for  the 
work.  Fifthly,  by  seeing  that  sappy  or  resinous  spots 
in  new  lumber  are  properly  treated  before  painting. 
Sixthly,  by  due  care  on  old  work  that  all  loose  paint 
and  dust  are  removed  by  scraping,  sand-papering,  wire- 
brushing,  dusting  or,  if  necessary,  burning,  before  new 
paint  is  applied. 

As  a  rule,  it  should  always  be  remembered  that  two 
thin  coats  thoroughly  brushed  out  are  better  in  most 
cases  than  one  thick  coat,  and  that  repainting  should 
never  be  delayed  until  the  under  coats  begin  to  loosen 
seriously. 

Only  when  conditions  are  favorable  should  the  house- 
holder be  his  own  painter.  In  any  case  he  should  study 
carefully  the  directions  on  the  can,  and  unless  they  are 
found  to  apply  to  his  particular  job,  should  consult 
either  the  manufacturer  or  a  practical  painter  for  fuller 
advice. 

Ceilings  and  walls  of  the  kitchen  are  improved  by  the 
application  of  flat  washes,   calcimines,   etc.,   of  which 


218  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

there  are  many  on  the  market.  These  surfaces  are 
easily  kept  clean  and  sanitary  and  for  this  reason  have 
been  used  instead  of  papers  in  the  kitchen.  All  dis- 
colorations  and  dirt,  grease  and  dust  are  removable  by 
soap  and  water.  The  best  paints  are  not  poisonous  and 
are  a  great  factor  in  home  sanitation. 

The  kitchen  floor  is  a  more  difficult  problem,  as  the 
wear  and  tear  is  so  much  greater  than  suffered  by  the 
walls.  However,  paint  and  varnish  manufacturers  have 
the  problem  well  in  hand  and  there  are  paints  and  stains 
on  the  market  and  varnishes,  too,  which  withstand  wear 
and  tear,  heat,  grease,  steam,  gases  and  every  other 
normal  nuisance.  Of  course,  this  holds  good  only  if 
they  are  applied  correctly.  Floor  varnishes  should  dry 
in  forty-eight  hours.  Dressings  for  revivifying  lino- 
leums are  on  the  market,  but  beware  of  poor  ones. 

Don't  be  afraid  to  investigate!  This  is  another  man- 
date to  the  Domiologist! 

And  bear  in  mind  that  floor  varnishes  and  stains 
should  be  able  to  stand  dragging  furniture  and  foot 
wear,  should  be  tough,  withstand  shock  or  abrasion,  and 
be  unaffected  by  normal  contact  with  moisture.  Good 
surfaces  will  give  enduring  service  and  will  permit  the 
scrubbing  and  washing  of  floors  almost  indefinitely. 
New  coats  can  be  added  as  the  wear  and  tear  demands. 
In  addition  to  paints  there  are  varnishes  and  stains 
combined  which  give  effect  of  natural  stain,  and  these 
applied  to  floors  are  more  than  satisfactory.  These  com- 
binations, too,  are  useful  on  linoleums  that  have  aged. 
These  materials  are  made,  it  must  be  understood,  to 
stand  wear.  Do  not  ever  think  of  applying  a  wall  stain 
or  paint  to  the  floor,  as  the  floor  compositions  are  made 
to  withstand  different  use.  Before  using  a  stain,  etc., 
on  linoleum  it  is  well  to  get  advice  from  a  linoleum  firm 
or  a  topnotch  paint  firm. 


KITCHEN  COSMETICS  219 

Enamels  or  Pigment  Varnishes 

Probably  nothing  gives  the  Domiologist  more  delight 
than  the  effect  a  fine  white  enamel  gives  the  objects  over 
which  it  is  laid.  Here  is  a  way  to  keep  the  kitchen 
a  real  blonde ! 

There  are  many  of  these  enamels  on  the  market  which 
give  the  refreshing  aspect  to  the  kitchen.  Many  of 
them  have  the  appearance  of  porcelain,  and  can  be  kept 
clean  with  little  trouble.  They  can  be  bought  in  the 
glossy  finish  or  the  flat  or  dull  or  mat  finish.  All  the 
woodwork  of  the  kitchen  can  be  treated  with  enamels 
if  a  charming  kitchen  is  wanted. 

The  high  cost  of  construction  to-day  demands  the  pro- 
tecting powers  of  paints.  The  beauty  theorj''  of  paint 
still  holds  good,  but  the  protective  power  is  predomi- 
nant and  most  important. 

The  use  of  a  good  floor  oil  has  been  proven  by  Dr. 
Wallace  Maunheimer  to  reduce  the  quantity  of  dust  in 
a  room  from  80%  to  100%.  Flying  dust  is  the  aero- 
plane of  disease.  Oils,  paint  and  varnish  the  anti- 
aircraft guns! 

And,  finally,  read  the  directions  on  the  can,  get  the 
admirable  books  of  directions  mailed  gratis  by  the  serv- 
ice departments  of  manufacturers  of  paint,  and  buy 
the  best. 

And  do  not  fail  to  realize  that  the  kitchen  with  a 
good  complexion  augurs  well  for  the  complexion  of 
every  one  in  the  house. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

THE  GREAT  AMERICAN  DISH 

TO  be  one  hundred  per  cent  American,  each  one  of  us 
must  eat  at  least  two  and  a  quarter  quarts  of  ice- 
cream annually.  This  is  the  national  American  dish, 
despite  Boston's  claim  for  the  baked  bean  and  the 
South 's  for  beaten  biscuits. 

Rich  and  poor,  the  be-butlered  and  the  maidless  make 
their  own  ice-cream.  The  more  remote  from  civiliza- 
tion, the  more  each  individual  housekeeper  makes  her 
own  ice-cream. 

It  is  no  longer  a  luxury ;  it  is  now  recognized  as  a  food. 
The  Government  classifies  it,  and  it  is  experimented 
with  at  most  of  the  State  agricultural  colleges  and  State 
experimental  stations.  Its  making  has  become  an  in- 
dustry standardized  by  the  Government  and  certain 
rules  must  be  adhered  to  by  every  manufacturer. 

The  introduction  of  ice-cream  as  an  industry  not 
only  stimulated  purchasers  of  ice-cream,  but  has  stimu- 
lated machinery  builders.  To-day  the  making  of  large 
plants  and  small  household  freezers  comprises  a  large 
industry. 

For  these  mechanisms  many  problems  of  refrigeration, 
ice,  brine,  rock  salt  and  packing  arise.  Some  of  these 
problems  are  important  to  the  housekeeper  as  a  maker 
of  ice-cream,  some  as  a  buyer,  and  some  not  at  all. 

Kinds  of  Ice- Cream 

In  this  sketch  we  will,  of  course,  only  touch  upon, 
those  parts  of  this  problem  that  are  of  interest  to  the 

220 


THE  GREAT  AMERICAN  DISH  221 

housekeeper — doing    her    own    work    or    with    assist- 
ance. 

Ice  creams  are  classified  under  various  heads  and 
sub-heads.  Nearly  every  one  interested  classifies  them 
differently.  For  the  sake  of  convenience,  we  will  give 
here  one  classification. 

I.  Plain  uncooked  ice-cream 

Known  as  Philadelphia  ice-cream,  which  consists  of 
sugar,  flavoring  cream  with  or  without  condensed 
milk. 

1.  Plain  with  flavoring. 

2.  Fruit   with   flavoring. 

3.  Nut  with  flavoring. 

4.  Bisque  with  marshmallow,  macaroon  cake,  wafers 
and  other  bread  products  well  dried  out. 

II.  Cooked 

French  ice-cream — sometimes  called  Neapolitan 
(though  Neapolitan  is  really  the  many-colored  layer 
ice  cream  only)  made  of  cream,  sugar,  eggs  and 
flavoring. 

1.  Parfaits 

Highly    flavored    fruits,    nuts,    spices    (Nesserold 
pudding,  Roman  and  English  plum  puddings). 

2.  Custards 

Flavoring,  cornstarch,  vanilla. 

III.  Sherberts  and  Ices 

Water  and  milk,  sugar,  white  of  egg,  fruit  juices, 
etc. 

1.  Ices  (granites  frozen  by  oscillation  and  frappes — 
semi-frozen  like  mush. 

2.  Water  Sherberts — Ices  and  egg,  sometimes  called 
souffle. 

3.  Punches — with  liquor    (passing  out). 

4.  Milk  Sherbets. 

5.  Lacto — skimmed  milk  bases. 


222  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

IV.  Mousse 

Rich  cream  sweetened  and  whipped,  frozen  in  molds 
without  oscillating  or  turning  the  freezer. 

V.  Fruit  layers 
Stablizers  and  fillers. 

Stabilizers — such  as  gelatine,  ice-cream  powders  and 
gum  tragacanth,  are  used  in  commercial  ice-creams 
to  give  the  product  body,  but  manufacturers  should, 
according  to  law,  admit  this  addition  if  necessary. 

Housekeepers  often  use  gelatine;  it  is  quite  whole- 
some and  not  dangerous  in  any  way. 

Freezing 

Apart  from  the  recipes,  with  which  this  chapter  shall 
not  deal,  the  most  important  part  about  ice-cream  is  the 
freezing  of  the  mixture.     Its  dangers  are  many. 

First  of  all,  freezing  incorporates  air  into  the  mix- 
ture and  therefore  increases  its  bulk. 

Ice-cream  can  be  frozen  too  slowly  or  too  fast,  and 
experience  here  is  the  best  teacher. 

If  frozen  too  rapidly,  says  the  Omaha  State  Experi- 
ment Station,  the  ice-cream  doesn't  expand  very  much 
(this  is  more  important  to  the  commercial  maker  of  ice- 
cream). Without  the  air  incorporated,  it  is  soggy  and 
heavy.     It  will  also  be  grainy  and  will  fall  apart. 

If  frozen  too  slowly,  it  is  buttery,  greasy,  non-expan- 
sive and  fat  will  rise. 

If  frozen  too  long,  it  will  be  churned  creamy,  it 
looses  expansion,  it  is  greasy,  soggy  and  heavy. 

These  are  the  reasons  why  cream  is  not  a  velvety, 
smooth,  ungrained  stand-without-hitching  quality. 

Here  are  some  other  defects  and  their  causes : 

First,  the  cream  must  be  clean  and  creamy,  combined 
with  flavoring  material  which  blends  with  the  cream 
to  a  full  delicious  flavor. 


THE  GREAT  AMERICAN  DISH  223 

There  may  be  defects  in  the  flavor,  due  to  the  cream 
used,  such  as  sour,  old,  bitter  or  metallic  cream  flavor. 
It  may  be  due  to  the  filler  or  stabilizer,  such  as  a 
starch,  gum  or  gelatine. 

Defects  may  also  be  due  to  other  ingredients.     It 
may  be  too  sweet,  not  sweet  enough,  coarse  flavor  due  to 
flavor  material,  stale  fruit,  rancid  nuts,  moldy  nuts. 
The  cream  must  be  firmly  frozen  to  be  smooth  and 
velvety.     If  it  is  not,  these  conditions  may  prevail: 
Icy:  Due  to  improper  packing. 

Coarse:  Too  thin  cream  or  packing  while  too  soft. 
Sticky:  Due  to  fillers,  such  as  gelatine  or  a  sweet- 
ened condensed  milk. 
Buttery :  Use  of  cream  partially  churned  before  freez- 
ing, or  to  cream  too  cold  when  put  into 
freezer,  or  because  freezer  was  operated  at 
too  high  speed. 

The  Cure 

First,  buy  a  good  freezer,  never  less  than  a  gallon, 
because  you  can  always  freeze  a  little  in  it  and  always 
be  ready  for  a  crowd. 

There  are  various  types  of  freezers  on  the  market. 
(1)  those  that  you  turn  by  hand,  (2)  by  motor,  (3) 
ones  that  aren't  turned  at  all,  (4)  ones  that  are  oscil- 
lated only  and  in  which,  at  home,  two  flavors  can  be 
frozen  at  once.  In  this  type  it  takes  longer  to  freeze 
cream,  but  as  the  arm  only  works  back  and  forth  it  is 
not  so  tiring.  The  can  in  the  tub  is  partitioned  in  two 
segments  and  the  paddles  and  dasher  only  turn  half 
way. 

The  freezer  that  isn't  turned  at  all  needs  no  lyric 
from  me.  It  tells  its  own  story  in  making  good  ice- 
cream of  a  smooth  mousse-like  consistency,  but  real  ice- 
cream.   It  is  rapid  and  restful. 


224  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

The  various  motorized  freezers  are  good  for  large 
families  and  the  small  motors  attachable  to  small  freez- 
ers geared  for  motors  are  joys. 

There  are  some  kitchen  units  that  are  clumsy,  some 
that  are  convenient  which  turn  the  freezer,  polish  the 
silver,  sharpen  the  knives,  in  fact  do  everything  but 
shine  one's  boots.     (See  Chapter  XXV). 

In  buying  these  units  don't  be  "pulled  in"  by  sales- 
men talk.  Watch  for  compactness,  durability,  clean- 
ability,  lack  of  danger  in  use,  replaceable  parts,  and  ease 
of  manipulation.  In  the  use  of  motors  the  attachment 
must  be  so  made  that  the  connections  will  not  be  catch- 
ing in  gearing,  etc.  Above  four  quarts,  hand  work  is 
heavy  and  we  would  advise  turning  the  freezer  by  a 
motor. 

In  the  non-turning  freezer,  the  chamber  for  the  ice 
and  salt  is  separated  from  the  can  so  that  the  freezing 
mixture  cannot  enter  the  ice-cream. 

It  is  cheaper  to  buy  ice-cream,  the  home-made  kind 
tastes  far  better.  When  you  buy  ice-cream,  it  is  wise 
to  watch  the  containers  in  which  it  comes,  and  to  know 
■where  it  is  made.  The  Government  is  very  particular, 
but  slight  slips  in  the  ice-cream  organizations  can  breed 
the  most  dangerous  of  bacilli.  At  home  you  can  watch 
everything;  above  all,  cleanliness  of  ingredients. 

Freezing  Mixture 

The  greatest  of  all  the  science  of  ice-cream  making  is 
the  mixture  of  ice  and  salt.  Most  cook  books  say  three 
parts  ice  to  one  of  salt  for  home  use.  For  hardening 
after  it  is  frozen  eight  parts  of  ice  to  one  of  salt,  and  the 
mixture  must  cover  the  can  entirely,  top  and  sides. 

Of  course,  the  ratio  of  ice  to  salt  regulates  the  freez- 
ing. The  United  States  Government  Bulletins  are  full 
of  these  ratios  if  you  want  to  look  up  this  matter. 


THE    GREAT    AMERICAN   DISH  225 

On  this  subject  Bowen  of  the  United  States  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture  in  Bulletin  98  says: 

* '  When  two  solid  bodies,  as  salt  and  ice,  mix  to  form  a 
layer,  a  certain  amount  of  heat  becomes  latent,  called 
the  latent  heat  of  solution.  Since  this  latent  heat  is 
taken  from  the  mixture  itself  the  temperature  falls 
correspondingly.  The  temperature  obtained  by  a  salt 
and  ice  mixture  depends  on  relative  proportions  of  the 
mixture  and  to  less  extent  on  the  salt  at  which  the  heat 
is  supplied  from  the  outside,  the  size  of  the  ice  lump 
and  salt  particles  and  the  amount  and  density  of  the 
resulting  brine.  Hence  it  is  impracticable  to  give  other 
than  approximate  temperatures  with  fixed  ratios  of 
salt  and  ice." 

It  usually  takes  thirty  minutes  at  least  to  freeze  a 
gallon  of  ice-cream. 

Freezers 

Electric  freezers  come  from  about  $75  up  and  can 
be  had  for  alternate  (A.  C.)  or  direct  (D.  C.)  current. 

The  advantage  of  the  freezer  with  its  own  directly- 
connected  motor,  rather  than  a  motor  which  has  to  be 
connected,  is  readily  apparent  to  those  who  have  suf- 
fered the  annoyance  of  belting,  pulleys,  and  counter- 
shafts. Being  self-contained,  such  an  outfit  may  be 
readily  located  at  will ;  to  operate  merely  requires  secur- 
ing it  in  place  and  connecting  the  wires.  You  have, 
therefore,  no  belts  with  attendant  annoyance  and  ex- 
pense, no  countershaft  with  its  necessity  for  continued 
attention  and  causing  vibration,  nor  is  there  dirt  and  oil 
being  thrown  here  and  there.  In  addition  to  the  me- 
chanical advantages  secured  by  the  motor-driven  ice- 
cream freezer  unit,  there  are  had  by  its  use  cleanliness 
and  increased  space. 

Every  freezer  should  be  so  made  that  the  action  of 


226  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

scrapers  and  dasher  is  continuous.  Some  freezers  have 
a  device  in  vs^hich  the  scrapers  are  hung  on  the  dasher 
so  their  lower  ends  rest  on  the  bottom  of  the  can,  and 
the  friction  between  ends  of  scrapers  and  can  bottom 
when  in  motion  moves  the  scrapers  against  the  side  of 
the  can,  and  holds  them  there  positively  and  continu- 
ously. 

Tubs 

The  tubs  should  be  strong  and  if  possible  bound  with 
welded  wire  hoops  or  metal  bands.  If  the  tub  is  metal 
this  is  unnecessary.  Tubs  are  made  of  pine,  white 
cedar,  etc.  The  zinc  tub  is  a  good  substitute  for  the 
wooden  tub,  but  the  wooden  one  is  good  if  made  water 
tight  and  smooth  and  easy  to  clean.  All  parts  of  the 
freezer  should  be  non-rustable,  especially  the  can. 

The  best  cans  are  made  wth  drawn-steel  bottoms. 
They  do  not  leak,  do  not  fall  out,  as  may  happen  with 
those  having  the  tin  plate  or  cast  bottoms. 

The  best  bodies  of  the  can  are  made  of  heavy  tin 
plate.  The  top  of  can  is  strongly  wired  and  turned 
over,  while  the  bottom  of  can  is  made  to  fit  over  and 
under  the  drawn  steel  bottom. 

All  gears  must  be  completely  covered  so  that  neither 
ice  nor  salt  can  get  in  the  cogs  nor  the  fingers  be  caught 
and  injured.  Some  freezers  have  gearing  enclosed  in  a 
box-like  fixture. 

The  inside  parts  touching  the  cream  should  be  of 
harmless  metal,  generally  of  pure  block  tin.  All  out- 
side parts  should  be  smoothly  finished,  galvanized 
usually. 

The  ice  space  between  the  can  and  the  tub  must  be 
so  arranged  as  to  use  the  least  amount  of  ice  and  salt, 
and  freeze  as  quickly  as  possible. 


THE  GREAT  AMERICAN  DISH  227 

The  cross  bars  which  connect  the  handles  and  cover 
and  clamp  on  the  opposite  side  are  often  a  source  of 
agony.  These  must  be  simple  in  operation.  Some 
freezers  have  a  clamp,  some  a  key.  This  is  a  matter 
of  choice  and  manufacturer.  Some  cross  bars  are 
hinged  and  others  are  dove-tailed. 

Freezers  are  supplied  with  fly  wheel  instead  of  cranks 
to  turn.  The  fly  wheel  costs  a  little  more  but  it  is  far 
more  convenient,  as  it  requires  less  turning. 

Some  freezers  have  a  glass  peep  hole  in  the  cover  of 
can  so  one  can  see  the  progress  of  the  freezing  and 
obviate  loss  of  time  and  cold  by  opening  the  can. 

Scrapers  are  made  of  rolled  steel  bars  ground  straight 
and  fine  to  fit  can  and  to  insure  clean  scraping  of  the 
cream,  so  that  all  parts  of  the  mixture  are  being  frozen 
continuously. 

The  dashers  and  beater  are  usually  of  malleable  iron 
heavily  coated  with  pure  block  tin.  Generally  (and 
better  so)  there  is  one  scraper  for  the  bottom  of  the  can 
and  two  metal  scrapers  for  side. 

Buying  Freezers 

The  same  principals  hold  in  buying  freezers  as  any 
other  culinary  utensil.  They  must  be  seamless,  smooth, 
easily  cleaned,  non-dangerous,  non-corrosive,  non-chip- 
ping, and  be  made  by  a  reputable  manufacturer. 

Besides  the  freezer  must  have  ease  in  running,  quick 
freezing,  economy,  convenience,  and  give  practical  re- 
sults. 

Freezers  are  equipped  with  best  standard  motors. 
The  motors  should  be  so  placed  as  to  eliminate  danger 
of  motors  burning  out  or  being  injured  by  careless 
handling  of  the  ice  and  salt. 

In  ordering  a  motor  outfit  include  the  following— 


228  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

your  voltage,  Direct  or  Alternating  Current;  if  Alter- 
nating what  Cycle  and  Phase.     (See  Chapter  I). 

Buy  a  freezer  with  thought.  All  machinery  pays 
better  when  the  best  is  bought  and  close  attention  has 
been  given  to  the  purchase. 


CHAPTER  XXV 

THE  KITCHEN  ROTARY  CLUB 

ARE  you  a  culinary  rotarian?  Or  do  you  still 
"beat  it"  by  hand? 
The  Kitchen  Rotary  Club  is  becoming  a  real  factor 
in  culinary  economics !  By  means  of  rotary  motion  the 
mixer,  the  beater,  the  combination  of  these  two  have 
come  to  relieve  the  back,  arm  and  hand  and  where  elec- 
trically driven  cause  no  waste  of  time! 

Electric  Rotaries 

To  begin  with,  these  fairy-like  machines  are  some- 
what like  and  unlike  patent  medicine  advertisements — 
alike  because  they  claim  to  do  many  things  and  unlike 
because  they  can  and  do  fulfill  their  claims ! 

For  example,  they  beat  eggs,  mix  bread  dough,  may- 
onnaise; stir  cake  batter,  frostings,  dressings;  whip 
cream ;  mash  potatoes ;  grind  nuts,  spices  and  meat ;  drive 
(some)  ice-cream  freezers;  turn  the  food  chopper; 
have  grinding  and  buffing  wheels  for  sharpening  cut- 
lery and  polishing  silver.  In  fact,  they  are  companions 
not  idly  to  be  cast  aside. 

Housewives  Bad  Mixers 

This  will  especially  appeal  to  the  housewife  mayon- 
naisly — because  many  a  good  mixture  has  been  wasted  by 
inefficient  mixings  by  the  mixer  being  called  away 
suddenly,  etc.    Then,  too,  many  a  mayonnaise  is  never 

229 


230  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

born  at  all  because  the  housewife  or  the  cook  "hasn't 
the  time  to-day."  Where  the  mixer  is  electrically 
driven,  time  is  added  unto  the  menage  and  while  the 
mayonnaise  is  forming  the  cook  is  /performing  elsewhere. 

Egg  beating,  cream  whipping,  batter  beating,  all  these 
take  time.  Now  with  the  electric  machine  the  home  can 
revel  in  souffles  and  cake.  It  can  buy  coffee  in  the  bean 
and  grind  it  with  no  effort — here  is  a  real  epicurean 
saving.  For  coffee  in  the  bean  and  grinding  it  at  home 
saves  the  volatile  essences  of  the  coffee  which  gives  to 
perfect  coffee  the  added  aroma  and  full  flavor.  These 
machines  grind  cutlery  and  not  "exceedingly  slow" 
and  so  can  add  finesse  to  a  slice  of  meat ! 

As  with  the  mayonnaise  mixing,  these  utilitarian  in- 
vestments take  the  guess  work  out  of  cake,  meringues, 
batters.  Improper  mixing  is  an  immorality  not  easily 
cleansed  from  kitchens.  Yet  these  instruments  with 
perfection  of  mechanical  agitation  do  the  mixing  with 
assurance  and  become  real  vice  chasers.  Imagine!  (all 
things  being  right) — you  can  be  sure  that  success  will 
come  to  your  cakes,  sauces,  breads,  rolls,  pies,  cookies, 
doughnuts,  cheese  dishes,  puddings,  sauces — Remember 
that  lumpy  cream  sauce  ?  Well  no  more  of  that !  Your 
sauces  and  your  mashed  vegetables  will  be  lumpless ! 

Removing  doubt,  removes  nerve  strain  in  a  kitchen — 
and  maybe  the  cook  without  nerve  strain  will  be  affable 
and  a  comforting  dweller  in  your  halls! 

The  New^  Machines 

Among  the  best  machines  is  one  so  made  as  to  effec- 
tively chop  food  and  meat,  grind  coffee,  slice  vegetables 
and  fruit,  etc.,  etc.,  has  with  its  attachments  a  hot-water 
and  ice  container  to  be  used  as  a  "bath,"  if  stirring 
must  needs  be  done  in  a  cold  or  hot  medium;  soup 
strainer    and    colander    connection,    ice-cream   freezer 


Courtesy  of  Troy  Metal  Products  Co. 

A  MEMBER  OF  THE  KITCHEN  ROTARY  CLUB   AT  WORK   ON 
CAKE-MIXING. 


THE  KITCHEN  ROTARY  CLUB  233 

attachment;  a  meat  slicer  (a  great  comfort  and  saving 
of  meat ) .     This  motor  has  three  speeds. 

You  may  have  never  felt  the  need  of  these  types  of 
workers,  but  then  you  never  knew  the  use  of  the  radio- 
gram until  you  used  it! 

Don't  you  hate  to  strain  and  persuade  large  quanti- 
ties? 

The  strain  is  gone  from  straining  large  quantities 
now.  This  is  gently  done  by  the  coaxing  electric 
strainer  and  colander  device. 

One  "mixer"  is  also  accompanied  by  a  cabinet  if 
desired.  It  is  finished  in  white  and  is  made  especially 
for  this  device  and  houses  comfortably  all  its  attach- 
ments. It  has  an  enameled  metal  top  and  does  not  add 
much  to  the  total  cost  of  machine. 

Another  power  unit  advertises  two  speeds  and  has  all 
the  above  attachments.  It  comes  with  a  metal  table 
with  a  shelf  (open),  on  which  all  the  work  can  be  done 
with  comfort. 

Smaller  Craft 

If  you  don't  want  a  machine  that  can  do  so  much, 
there  is  one  on  the  market  electrically  driven,  which 
beats  eggs,  mixes  mayonnaise,  angel  cake  and  light  bat- 
ter, mashes  potatoes  and  fluffs  them  if  mixed  with  butter 
and  cream,  mixes  custard,  souffles,  etc. 

It  has  a  small  l^  H.  P.  motor  of  fine  construction 
designed  for  110  voltage.  It  is  necessary  in  this  case  to 
state  whether  your  current  is  direct  or  alternating  (DC 
or  AC).  This  motor  can  run  on  either  direct  or  alter- 
nating if  the  speed  control  device  is  not  to  be  used. 
But  the  speed  control  in  this  instrument  is  its  crowniMg 
glory.  That  is,  you  can  mix  rapidly  or  slowly,  a  per- 
formance the  older  type  of  mixers  small  or  large  could 
not  do.    It  was  racing  speed  or  nothing.    All  cooks 


234  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

know  that  some  things  take  rapid  beating  or  stirring, 
some  other  things  slower  agitation.  The  cook  or  house- 
wife can  in  the  course  of  her  experience  with  these  new 
comers  into  our  kitchens  find  new  uses  continually  for 
them. 

For  example,  this  small  motor  has  a  speed  regulator 
which  ranges  from  4800  to  8000  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  motor  takes  from  25  watts  (extra  load)  to  60  watts 
(heavy  load). 

It  is  well  to  have  a  detachable  motor  as  in  this  one,  for 
when  cleaning  is  necessary  the  motor  remains — due  to 
its  hydrophobiac  (fear  of  water)  elements — unharmed! 

The  beater  itself  here  is  the  ancient  and  honorable 
Dover  type,  so  you  see  it  is  not  so  foreign  to  your  ken. 

Time  and  the  Mixer 

1000  revolutions  is  all  you  can  effect  in  a  minute,  no 
matter  how  "Bed"  you  may  be.  This  machine  turns 
2000  revolutions,  outrushing  the  Russians  and  all  Cen- 
tral Europe! 

Some  Evolutions 

In  from  one  to  five  and  ten  minutes  can  eggs,  f rost- 
ings,  and  mayonnaise  be  accomplished! 

Full  speed  for  heavy  mixtures,  half  speed  for  lighter, 
a  gram  of  cream  can  be  had  in  less  than  five  minutes. 

A  gallon  of  oil  in  relation  to  a  mayonnaise  dressing 
took  but  ten  minutes  to  be  used  up. 

Now  can  you  beat  it?  Hasn't  this  phrase  lost  its 
slangy  significance? 

This  little  angel  weighs  but  2  %  pounds,  and  its 
lightness  is  one  of  its  charms. 


THE  KITCHEN  ROTARY  CLUB  235 


Requirements 

All  these  machines  should  be  easily  attached  to  wall 
or  lighting  sockets  or  outlets.     (Electric). 

They  must  be  easily  cleaned. 

The  motor  must  be  protected  from  you  and  food 
stuffs  and  you  must  be  protected  from  it. 

All  attachments  must  attach  easily.  When  easily  is 
used  it  is  meant  to  the  limit  of  ease.  All  parts  must 
fit,  so  that  the  doing  of  a  new  operation  is  not  accom- 
panied with  dread.  It  must  be  a  pleasure  to  depart 
from  coffee  grinding  to  turning  the  ice-cream  pail  and 
polishing  silver. 

Now,  kitchening  is  no  endurance  test.  The  fatigue 
is  eliminated.  Your  days  may  not  be  so  "stirring" 
but  at  the  eud  of  them  you  will  feel  like  the  theatre 
and  what  not. 

The  hand-turned  cake  and  bread  mixers  are  better 
than  mixing  by  hand  and  spoon — but  if  possible,  the 
electrically  driven  mixers  which  come  in  many  stj^les 
and  prices  will  give  you  more  than  comfort  and  will 
outlast  many  a  cook. 

The  hand-turned  stoners,  buffers,  grinders,  etc.,  are 
very  efficient  but  not  quite  the  joy  an  electrically 
driven  unit  may  be  in  an  electrically  conducted 
menage. 

These  machines  are  Utopian  agitators !  Agitating  for 
food  and  helping  the  Kitchen  Workers  of  the  World. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

FLAWS  OB  FLOORS  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN 

THE  question  of  the  kitchen  flooring  in  the  home 
is  of  course,  a  very  profound  and  serious  subject. 
Those  who  build  away  from  cities  are  hard  put  to  it  to 
know  exactly  what  there  is  on  the  market  and  those 
who  live  in  cities  are  confused  by  the  variety  of  floor- 
ings and  the  attractive  attributes  as  their  salesmen  re- 
cite their  eulogies.  In  order  to  help  the  prospective 
buyer  we  have  set  down  a  few  basic  facts. 

Floor  Requirements 

Of  course,  you  realize  that  every  kitchen  flooring 
should,  as  nearly  as  possible,  be: — 
Attractive, 
Easy  to  keep  clean, 
Noiseless, 
Odorless, 

Vermin  and  dust  proof. 
Comfortable  to  feet  and  back, 
Non-slippery  whether  dry  or  wet, 
Durable    (no   upkeep   but  washing   and   polishing), 
Fire  proof  or  fire  retardent, 
Impervious  to  changes  in  temperature, 
Laid  over  any  kind  of  floor  base. 
Lightweight  enough  to  be  suitable  to  any  structure, 
Seamless  or  joined  so  as  to  be  virtually  seamless. 
Non-warping,  non-expansive  of  non-contracting. 
Before  enumerating  the  kinds  of  floors  that  you  will 

236 


o 


O     H 
O     '^ 

^  'v 


FLAWS  OR  FLOORS  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     237 

have  laid  before  you  in  this  chapter,  it  would  be  well 
to  realize  that  a  floor  will  sometimes  keep  a  maid  or 
lose  her,  and  you  wiU  not  know  the  "why."  But  the 
fact  is  that  a  floor  can  tire  you  if  it  be  not  a  good  kind 
for  the  purpose  and  can  reduce  fatigue  and  make  for 
general  well  being  if  it  be  a  good  type. 

Here  is  a  list  of  the  most  important  kinds  of  flooring 
in  use : — 

Marble, 

Wood  and  wood  block, 

Linoleum,  Linotile, 

Cork, 

Composition  and  concrete,   (laid  in  paste  or  blocks) 

Tile, 

Terrazzo. 

Marble  can  be  dismissed  as  being  too  expensive,  too 
beautiful  and  too  resisting  to  the  feet.  It  is  also  too 
cold  under  foot. 

Wood  is  very  popular  because  in  the  commoner  va- 
rieties it  is  the  cheapest  flooring.  In  whatever  grade  a 
wooden  floor  is  used,  it  has  the  disadvantage  of  needing 
attention.  It  always  needs  refinishing.  The  better  the 
floor  the  more  attention  it  will  need.  It  will  splinter 
eventually  and  show  marks  if  things  are  dragged  over 
it.  Although  the  scraping  down  and  refinishing  always 
make  the  floor  look  like  new,  the  wooden  floor  is  better 
in  any  room  in  the  house  than  the  kitchen,  laundry  or 
pantry.  There  are  some  housekeepers  who  wouldn't 
have  anything  else  but  the  hard  wood  floors  in  their 
kitchens — oak,  maple  or  Georgia  pine,  etc. 

Laying  the  Floor 

The  wooden  floor  must  be  carefully  laid  or  else  the 
cracks  become  traps  for  germs  and  dust.  Of  course, 
tliis  applies  to  all  flooring.     And  while  on  the  subject 


238  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

of  laying  floors,  let  me  say  that  even  though  you  order 
the  best  kind  of  flooring  in  the  world,  if  it  is  laid  badly, 
you  might  as  well  have  bought  the  worst  sort  of  mate- 
rial. It  is  imperative  that  you  have  the  manufacturer 
or  the  manufacturer's  delegated  dealer  lay  your  floor. 
Don't  go  to  your  village  builder  or  carpet  man.  It 
won't  pay;  in  fact,  it  will  cost  you  dearly,  as  in  such 
case  the  maker  of  these  products  has  developed  a  way 
to  lay  flooring  which  is  inseparable  from  the  life  of  the 
flooring  itself. 

Many  a  householder  knows  a  good  floor,  but  few 
know  what  to  look  for  in  the  laying  of  it. 

The  Linoleum  Family 

Among  the  best  known  floorings  for  kitchen  use  is 
linoleum.  It  is  so  well  known  and  so  popular  that  pur- 
chasers in  their  ignorance  often  accept,  unwittingly, 
substitutes  and  lay  felt  paper  instead  of  the  real  thing ! 

If  you  decide  to  buy  linoleum,  go  to  the  best  maker  or 
his  dealer.  Follow  their  gospel  Buy  the  Best.  If  you 
heed  this  you  make  an  investment.  If  you  do  not,  you 
make  an  expenditure. 

So  when  you  decide  to  buy  linoleum  first  look  on  the 
wrong  side  of  it,  and  if  it  has  burlap  on  the  back  and 
if  it  is  very  difficult  to  tear,  it  is  pretty  definitely  lin- 
oleum.    It  also  carries  the  name  of  the  maker. 

It  is  well  for  the  prospective  buyer  to  know  some- 
thing of  the  manufacture  of  a  popular  article.  It 
makes  you  appreciate  and  understand  how  to  take  care 
of  it  better. 

Women  should  not  buy  unless  they  know  exactly 
what  they  are  buying. 

Linoleum  is  made  of  burlap,  linseed  oil  and  cork,  as 
the  main  ingredients.  The  oil  is  first  boiled  to  thicken 
it.     When  it  is  cooled  it  is  poured  down  over  suspended 


FLAWS  OR  FLOORS  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     239 

sheets  or  scrim  and  by  coming  in  contact  with  the 
oxygen  of  the  air,  becomes  oxidised  and  solidified.  Then 
these  oil-impregnated  skins  are  ground  up  and  mixed 
with  gums  to  give  the  fabric  elasticity  and  it  is  then 
mixed  with  ground  cork  or  cork  flour,  the  coloring 
matter,  and  the  rosin,  (to  harden  it).  This  mixture 
is  fed  into  a  machine  which  distributes  it  evenly  over 
the  burlap.  It  later  passes  through  a  series  of  finely 
adjusted  rollers  weighing  about  27  tons  each  and  ad- 
justable to  space  of  1/1000  of  an  inch  between  rolls 
which,  of  course,  give  any  required  thickness  to  the 
linoleum.  This  is  plain  linoleum  and  it  is  many  weeks 
in  the  making. 

The  printed  linoleum  is  made  by  passing  the  plain 
over  print  drums. 

The  straight  line  or  inlay  is  done  by  a  still  more 
involved  process,  but  the  patterns  never  wear  out  as 
they  are  an  integral  part  of  the  linoleum,  going  through 
from  back  to  front  of  the  material. 

Highly  paid  designers  are  engaged  in  this  work  and 
many  craftsmen  of  great  skill  are  employed  for  stencil 
work,  etc. 

You  don't  always  realize  the  time,  work,  and  expense 
of  the  ordinary  things  that  you  see  about  you. 

When  the  linoleum  is  being  laid,  look  out  for  these 
things.  (They  apply  pretty  generally  to  the  laying  of 
any  flooring  of  this  kind.)  If  over  wood — the  nails 
must  be  hammered  in  below  the  surface,  the  wood  laid 
too  to  avoid  dampness  and  cracking.  If  over  concrete — 
it  must  have  dried  a  month  or  two  and  be  filled  in  with 
plaster  of  paris  if  it  has  any  cracks.  It  should  be  laid 
over  felt  in  both  cases  to  insure  long  life  to  the  linoleum 
and  the  comfortable  resiliency  to  the  foot  and  conse- 
quent ease  to  the  back.  The  felt  acts  as  a  cushion,  makes 
the  linoleum  fit  better,  and  obviates  later  refitting  and 
trimmings.     See  too,  that  the  workmen  are  careful  to 


240  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILB 

force  the  strips  close  together  and  cement  closely. 
These  things  if  it  is  absolutely  impossible  to  get  the  lin- 
oleum people  themselves  to  lay  the  floor.  It  would  be 
wise  then,  to  get  their  booklet. 

It  is  easily  kept  in  condition  if  you: 

Use  only  mild  soaps,  never  caustic  powder,  with  warm 
water.  Rinse  immediately  with  clear  water  and  dry 
immediately.  Wash  and  dry  about  a  square  yard  at 
a  time;  do  not  flood  the  whole  room  at  once.  Strong 
soaps  will  eat  the  pattern  in  the  printed  linoleum 
and  wear  the  inlay. 

Use  elbow  grease ! 

Use  glass  casters  on  heavy  furniture  as  the  linoleum 
will  show  marks. 

Store  linoleum,  when  necessary,  away  from  excessive 
heat  and  moisture. 

Waxing  occasionally  is  good.  But  an  oil  mop  does 
very  well. 

The  numberless  designs  and  coloring  to  be  had  in  this 
fabric  add  to  its  value  and  pleasure,  and  the  kitchen  can 
be  in  lovely  accord  with  the  decorations  of  the  house. 

The  ordinary  dripping  will  not  effect  linoleum,  nor 
the  ordinary  moisture.  It  requires  no  extra  mats  as 
foot  Testers,  is  not  a  substitute  but  a  flooring,  and  in 
every  way  deserves  its  great  popularity. 

The  Cork  Family 

Another  attractive,  useful  and  popular  flooring  is 
what  is  called  the  corks.  It  is  made  of  clean  cork 
shavings  compressed  in  closed  steel  molds  about  an 
inch  thick  for  five  hours  under  high  pressure  and  high 
temperature.  All  the  moisture  is  thus  driven  out  and 
it  is  pressed  together  into  a  waterproof  mass.  No  for- 
eign substance  is  introduced  to  bind  it  together  as  this 
is  done  by  its  own  gums.    Inferior  cork  tile  is  mixed 


FLAWS  OR  FLOORS  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN     241 

with  foreign  substances  and  this  often  makes  it  break 
down  and  detracts  from  the  resiliency  and  wearing 
power.  After  this  process  is  completed  it  is  cut  into 
the  desired  sizes. 

Cork  tile  comes  in  shades  of  brown  and  there  is  an 
excellent  cork  compound  tile  that  comes  in  many  designs 
and  colors. 

It  is  not  absolutely  fireproof  but  is  what  is  called  a 
fire  retardent  in  that  it  takes  a  flame  of  1500  degrees  F. 
one  hour  to  bum  a  hole  in  a  tile  6"x  6"x  y^' . 

The  cork  tile  floor  of  the  best  make  will  last  as  long  as 
the  building.  It  is  of  the  loveliest  coloring,  delightful 
in  tone,  noiseless  and  soothing  to  the  feet  and  back,  warm 
to  the  touch  and  altogether  psychologically  comforting 
to  the  nerves. 

It  requires  but  soap  and  water  and  elbow  grease  to 
keep  it  in  condition  forever.  It  is  never  slippery,  is 
non-absorbent  of  dust  and  moisture  and  when  laid  cor- 
rectly needs  no  effort  nor  money  for  its  upkeep.  This 
is  why  the  initial  investment  though  larger  than  for 
some  other  flooring  is  a  wise  one,  as  it  is  positively  the 
ultimate  expenditure. 

There  is  much  inferior  cork  tile  on  the  market  and  it 
is  very  hard  to  tell  it  from  the  best  quality.  It  looks 
attractive  until  it  has  been  used  a  little  while,  then  it 
will  begin  to  "pit"  and  "sap"  (become  dark,  and  emit  a 
pungent  odor),   due  to  inferior  manufacture. 

Heavy  tracking  does  not  effect  cork  tile  as  it  is  so 
elastic  that  is  springs  back  into  place.  This  is  proven 
by  the  restaurants,  banks,  libraries  and  hospitals  that 
use  it  so  generously. 

In  laying  this,  the  same  general  things  should  be  ob- 
served as  in  the  case  of  linoleum.  It  is  laid  over  felt, 
the  base  must  be  free  from  moisture,  cracks  and  nails. 
If  the  cork  is  put  over  nailable  material,  small  headless 


242  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

sunken  brads  are  used.  If  not,  it  is  pasted  on  the  base. 
All  joints  are  pressed  together  by  a  special  compressing 
machine,  and  are  sealed  with  a  preparation  virtually 
making  the  cork  tile  into  one  large  seamless  covering 
under  which  no  dust,  moisture,  germs  or  vermin  can 
collect. 

The  velvety  quiet  of  these  floors  imparts  a  tranquillity 
to  the  kitchen,  contagious  to  mistress  and  to  maid. 

It  is  needless  to  say  much  for  the  tile  as  you  know  its 
beauties.  It  may  be  cold  to  the  feet,  non-resistant  and 
tiring  to  the  back  and  slippery  when  wet,  but  this  is 
overcome  by  mats  of  matting,  cork  or  linoleum.  Tile 
is  made  in  every  design  and  color  to  tit  any  desire  or 
design.  All  corners  and  joints  at  the  base  of  walls  can 
be  curved.  It  makes  a  unit  of  the  whole  room  in  de- 
sign and  intention  as  no  other  thing  does.  It  can  be 
cleaned  out  with  a  small  hose.  Of  course,  poor  tile 
cracks. 

Needless  to  say,  it  takes  real  skill  to  lay  these  floors 
as  the  under  bed  of  cement  has  to  be  very  perfect  to  pro- 
tect the  tile  upon  it.  However,  it  looks  royal,  it  wears, 
and  is  a  favorite  with  great  kitchen  builders. 

Compositions 

The  floorings  of  composition,  cements  and  mineral 
mixtures  are  innumerable.  Some  are  excellent,  em- 
bodying nearly  all  the  good  points  enumerated  in  this 
latter.  They  are  a  little  warmer  than  tile  and  not  quite 
so  expensive.  They  have  probably  a  little  more  foot 
comfort  but  not  much  more.  They  are  fire  proof,  do 
not  weigh  too  much  for  a  lightly  constructed  house,  and 
are  kept  clean  with  the  usual  elbow  grease  and  water. 

These  floors  for  the  most  part  are  made  in  various 
colors  and  designs. 

In  tile  and  composition  the  joint  at  the  base  of  walls 


FLAWS  OR  FLOORS  IN  YOUR  KITCHEN    243 

can  be  made  practically  one  with  the  wall  in  a  curving 
connection.  In  the  case  of  linoleum  and  cork,  this  joint 
is  either  accomplished  by  a  curving  connection  or  more 
generally  by  a  highly  compressed  and  sealed  joint,  allow- 
ing for  absolutely  no  trapping  of  foreign  matter  and 
rendering  the  floor  easily  swept  and  washed. 

Many  great  institutions  and  some  private  homes  have 
found  these  to  be  practical,  so  if  you  observe  the  "Buy 
the  Best  from  the  Best ' '  rule  you  cannot  go  wrong. 

LiNOTILE 

A  newer  kind  of  floor  is  a  cross  between  a  cement  and 
a  linoleum.  It  wears  indefinitely  and  can  be  highly 
recommended,  as  handsome  as  it  comes  in  tile  form, 
and  silent,  easily  kept  clean,  resilient  and  all  the  good 
points  of  cement  as  well  as  linoleum. 


CHAPTER  XXVII 

FEDERAUZING   YOUR  KITCHEN 

FANCY  a  carpenter  with  his  tools  all  over  the  room ! 
Fancy  a  painter  with  one  color  here  and  another 
color  there !  Do  you  think  we  would  have  had  a  Michel- 
angelo if  he  had  been  forced  to  get  down  from  the 
scaffold  every  minute  for  a  tool  or  a  bit  of  clay  ?  And 
yet  women  for  the  most  part,  women  who  need  their 
energy  for  making  the  home  a  fit  place  to  live  in,  still 
persist  in  scattering  their  tools  about  the  kitchens  and 
walk  miles  daily,  because  they  have  not  mobilized  their 
tools. 

To  what  can  be  accredited  the  woman's  hatred  of  sav- 
ing steps,  even  though  she  complains  of  fatigue  and 
extra  work  ?  What  can  account  for  the  woman 's  dislike 
of  having  her  things  handy?  Is  it  money?  No,  be- 
cause she  often  buys  motors,  "movie"  tickets,  dogs, 
jewels  and  garments  in  quantities  far  more  than  she 
needs.  It  is  perhaps  due  to  a  past  vastness  of  ignorance. 
But  now  when  there  are  specialists  descanting  on  the 
glories  of  saving  steps,  time  and  money  there  is  little  ex- 
cuse. In  this  article  one  stumbling  block  will  be  removed 
and  the  kitchen  can  well  trajisform  itself  into  a  room 
where  the  most  methodical  man  can  work  and  where 
any  maid  coming  in  for  the  first  time  will  not  have 
to  use  levers,  telescopes,  periscopes  and  what  not  to  pre- 
pare the  first  meal.  For  the  kitchen  cabinet  is  the  first 
plank  in  the  platform  of  standardizing  domestic  work 
even  as  it  is  being  standardized  in  the  factory.    This  is 

244 


Courtesjt   of  Janes  d-   Kirtland 


A     STEEL     UNIT     KITCHEN     CABINET     FLANKED     BY     BROOM     AND     DUSTER 
CLOSETS.       SEE   THE   ELEVATION   FROM   THE  FLOOR.       THIS   CAN   BE   BUILT- 
IN    TOO 


FEDERALIZING  YOUR  KITCHEN         245 

the  basic  glory  of  the  kitchen  cabinet.  Now,  for  the 
more  important  details  of  its  makeup. 

These  cabinets  group  in  one  place  the  necessary  tools 
and  materials  for  getting  together  the  meals  of  the 
house.  They  hold  the  spices,  flour,  sugar,  bottles,  pots 
and  pans,  sometimes  linens,  ice  and  gas  or  electric  stoves, 
packages  of  cereals,  etc.,  and  they  are  the  table,  the 
bread  board,  the  flour  board,  the  flour  bin  and  dish 
rack  all  in  one. 

Here  you  can  work  where  everything  is  within  arm's 
reach;  you  can  sit  at  your  work  and  not  fatigue  your 
self.  In  short,  you  have  a  work  bench  at  last  and  can 
feel  as  professional  as  the  carpenter  or  the  artist,  and  you 
must,  if  the  kitchen  is  ever  going  to  be  as  important  in 
the  life  and  best  living  of  mankind  as  it  deserves  to  be. 

Built  of  steel  entirely  in  some  cases,  all  wood  in 
others,  and  a  combination  of  both  in  still  others,  they 
are  comfortable  and  worth  while  in  the  best  makes.  Of 
course  in  this  product,  as  in  all  others,  one  must  go  to 
the  best  manufacturers  who  know  their  business  and 
take  an  interest  beyond  the  sale. 

When  you  buy  a  kitchen  cabinet  you  must  get  the 
maximum  comfort  and  utility.  Go  about  and  see  which 
one  you  think  will  save  you  the  most  work. 

The  all-steel  cabinet,  of  course,  is  less  responsibility 
to  keep  free  of  vermin.  The  wood  type  is  a  little  more 
care. 

If  your  cabinet  is  to  be  of  wood,  see  to  it  that  it  is  ant 
proof  (the  castors  as  well),  has  all  round  comers,  is 
varnish  and  finish  steamproof,  has  locks  that  lock,  doors 
that  easily  open,  whether  one  leaf  is  shut  or  both, 
whether  it  is  winter  or  summer,  supplies  a  broad  enough 
table  to  sit  down  and  work  at  comfortably,  a  table  top 
impervious  to  liquids,  grease  and  heat,  sanitary  glass 
drawer  pull,  dovetail  wood  joinings,  easy  rolling  castors, 


216  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

everything  easily  withdrawn  to  clean,  and  of  non-warp- 
ing, well-seasoned  wood.  The  finish  must  be  the  best, 
whether  enameled,  painted  or  varnished. 

In  the  cabinet  of  steel  construction  you  must  be  sure 
that  the  enamel  is  on  to  stay:  that  the  doors,  drawers 
and  locks  are  of  the  best  construction,  electrically 
welded.  The  doors,  etc.,  must  be  rigid  enough  not  to 
emit  hollow  sounds  every  time  they  are  closed.  In  the 
best  type  the  doors  do  not  dent  or  wobble  but  are  double, 
about  Yiq"  thick,  reinforced  on  the  inside  with  heavy 
steel  angles,  making  them  rigidity  enthroned.  The 
frames  are  rabbeted  to  receive  doors  and  drawers,  thus 
giving  no  overhang  but  making  a  flush  surface.  The 
doors  in  the  steel  cabinet  are  more  comfortable  to  handle 
if  they  are  hung  on  concealed  brass  hinges,  with  bullet 
catches  which  enable  the  doors  to  open  and  shut  abso- 
lutely independent  of  each  other. 

In  both  the  steel  and  the  wood  cabinets  the  table  tops 
are  all  of  different  material.  The  best  steel  type  in  our 
opinion  uses  nickled  zinc;  the  best  wood  cabinets  use 
porcelain,  iron,  aluminum,  vitreous  steel,  enamel,  etc. 
Any  of  these  tops  are  good  and  when  in  the  standard 
makes  you  can  be  very  sure  that  they  have  been  well 
tried  and  not  found  wanting  in  any  essential  quality. 

In  general,  then,  the  cabinet  is  a  receptacle  for  the 
most  used  things  in  the  kitchen;  therefore,  is  so  much 
iised  itself  that  it  cannot  be  too  good  and  should  be 
adapted  to  your  special  need. 

If  you  are  building  a  house  and  want  to  have  your 
kitchen  a  real  comfort,  install  a  kitchen  cabinet  or  go  to 
the  firm  that,  with  its  unit  system,  can  make  up  a 
kitchen  cabinet  combining  most  of  the  best  things  you  see 
in  any.  This  is  an  expensive  way  but  a  miraculous  joy. 
If  you  want  a  cabinet  to  be  installed  before  the  house  is 


FEDERALIZING  YOUR  KITCHEN         247 

built  it  is  a  saving  in  wall  tiling  where  the  cabinet  is 
placed,  especially  if  the  cabinet  is  made  of  steel. 

There  is  one  cabinet  on  the  market  that  has  an  ice  box 
in  it,  which  when  installed  with  the  back  toward  the 
porch  wall  makes  it  possible  for  the  ice  to  be  put  in  from 
the  porch  and  all  packages  delivered  from  the  porch 
through  its  parcel-service  shelf  opening  on  the  porch! 

In  this  cabinet  there  is,  too,  room  for  a  gas  stove  or 
electric  plates,  so  that  with  it  you  have  a  complete, 
compact  kitchen. 

The  unit  systems  in  steel  are  most  elastic,  as  they  can 
be  duplicated  over  the  broadest  and  the  narrowest,  long- 
est and  shortest  kitchens.  Whole  pantries  can  be 
equipped  with  them.  Diet  kitchens  in  the  upper  floors  of 
large  residences  can  also  be  equipped  with  these  units  so 
that  any  member  of  the  family,  nurse  or  valet,  can  pre- 
pare a  little  meal  with  everything  comfortably  housed 
in  the  pantry  cabinet.  They  are  one  of  those  examples 
of  household  developments  which  are  so  rapidly  com- 
ing to  the  front  to-day  and  mean  so  much  in  conven- 
ience. 

Each  maker  of  kitchen  cabinets  has  a  specialty  or 
two  which  he  tells  you  makes  for  superiority.  Each  one 
is  right,  so  you  must  choose  your  favorite  and  most 
appealing  speciality  and  buy  accordingly. 

Some,  to  obviate  the  little  back  bending,  have  a  device 
by  which  the  whole  shelf  of  the  bottom  of  the  cabinet 
pulls  out  when  you  open  the  door  and  enables  you  to 
see  what  you  want  without  strain,  or  time  loss. 
This  we  think  a  delightful  device.  Others  have 
gravity  locks  and  catches  which  always  fall  in 
place;  sanitary  leg  bases,  high  enough  from  the  floor 
to  sweep  under;  a  rolling  open  front,  which  makes  it 
simple  always  to  keep  the  cabinet  closed  and  away  from 


248  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

cooking  odors ;  white  enamel  interior ;  roller  bearing  on 
table  so  that  the  table  rolls  in  and  out  with  least  possible 
rebellion  or  noise;  and  a  drawer  for  kitchen  linen, 
which  is  a  great  comfort. 

Another  advertises  the  possibility  of  its  use  with  de- 
tached gas  or  electric  range,  its  silver  drawer,  bread 
board,  parcel  service,  and  ice  box  and  special  flour  bin. 
All  the  cabinets  are  proud  of  their  flour  bins  and  sifters. 
And  nearly  all  have  special  construction  so  that  they 
are  filled  and  emptied  with  ease  and  dispatch. 

One  fine  cabinet  has  a  revolving  spice  container  which 
is  very  convenient,  of  course. 

The  unit  system  is  proud  of  the  adaptability  to  any 
need,  including  even  broom  closets  on  the  side  of  the 
cabinet,  filling  any  wall  space.  These  are  usually  made 
of  steel  and  provide  a  cheaper  method  of  backing  up 
one  side  of  the  kitchen  than  by  the  use  of  tile  or  kitchen 
shelving. 

The  steel  unit  systems  also  come  in  special  "store" 
sizes  and  are  not  much  more  expensive  than  the  wood. 

The  steel  are  either  6"  from  the  floor  to  allow  for  clean- 
ing or  are  stationary  and  are  attached  to  the  floor  by 
curved  constructed  tile  or  linoleum,  which  gives  con- 
tinuity and  unity,  thus  reducing  the  swabbing  out  of  the 
floor  to  simplest  terms. 

The  kitchen  cabinet  that  is  put  in  when  the  house  is 
built,  be  it  of  wood  or  steel,  is  more  convenient  than  any 
other  closet,  as  no  builder  has  given  sufficient  thought  to 
maximum  utilities.  We  have  seen  architects  send  their 
"handy  man"  to  install  closets  who  seemed  to  be  ab- 
solutely unlearned  in  the  necessities  of  the  problems. 
Therefore,  before  and  after  building,  the  kitchen  cabinet 
or  the  kitchen  cabinet  unit  system  is  by  far  the  best 
policy  to  pursue. 


FEDERALIZING  YOUR  KITCHEN         249 


The  Essentials  op  the  Cabinet 

The  cabinet  must  be  able  to  fulfill  these  conditions: 
It  must  be  easily  moved  if  on  castors,  it  must  be  easily 
taken  apart,  drawers  must  run  smoothly,  racks  to  hold 
things  must  hold  things,  they  must  hold  enough  things, 
too,  to  prevent  relay  kitchen  races. 

The  wood  cabinets  are  excellent,  the  steel  we  think 
a  degree  more  self -protecting  because  they  cannot  absorb 
odors,  or  get  vermin  investitures.  However,  the  best 
grades  of  wood  cabinets  are  so  perfect  that  we  can  en- 
dorse them  ungrudgingly. 

The  cabinet  must  have:  Supply  closets,  china 
(nearly  every  case),  molding  boards,  work  table,  cutting 
board,  linen  receptacle,  pot,  pan  and  lid  holders,  bread, 
cake,  spice,  sugar  containers  and  flour  and  bin  shifter 
devices. 

All  other  departures  are  specialties  and  are  more  or 
less  inviting  according  to  the  buyer. 

There  is  a  cabinet,  remember,  for  any  space  as  well 
as  purse.  Get  the  best  of  the  best  dealer  and  make 
yourself  sure  that  the  one  you  are  getting  is  the  least 
complicated  and  the  easiest  to  keep  clean.  They  range 
in  price  from  around  $50  up  to  the  thousands.  But  no 
matter  what  they  contain,  or  how  thrilling  they  look, 
unless  the  cabinet  itself  is  the  acme  of  fine  workman- 
ship, you  will  be  in  constant  irritation  over  warping 
parts,  dust  and  uncleanable  surfaces. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 

WHEN  THE  POT  HANGS  HIGH 

MY  text  is  "one  kitchen  tool  hung  up  is  worth  two 
in  a  low  cupboard" — ^taken  from  The  Kitchen 
Libel — Chapter  1,  Verse  1. 

This  may  not  look  like  a  technical  chapter — like  one 
with  a  lot  of  mechanical  information — and  it  really 
isn't — it  intends  to  get  behind  technicalities  and  be  a 
radical  (don't  fear  the  word)  over-hauling  of  women's 
opinion  on  the  disestablishment  of  old  forms  of  kitchen 
usage  by  very  slight  changes  in  kitchen  arrangement. 

For  years  kitchens  have  been  built  with  closets  for 
kitchen  pots  built  in  "below  the  belt"  with  pernickety 
little  doors  with  cranky  little  locks.  For  years  these 
closets  gave  the  kitchen  denizen  or  housekeeper  herself 
all  the  rhythmic  exercise  necessary  to  the  development 
of  backache  and  nerves  and  sense  of  touch.  Into  these 
closets  you  had  to  feel  for  the  pan  you  wanted  and  then 
often  had  the  musical  treat  of  hearing  them  crash 
down  behind  something,  and  you  must  needs  kneel  in 
prayerful  posture  to  extract  the  necessary  pot  or  pan. 

If  there  were  ever  a  condition  in  the  kitchen  so  uncon- 
genial to  the  Woman-Doing-Her-Own-Work,  it's  this 
hidden  pot  and  pan  game.  If  the  carpenter  has  learned 
how  to  save  his  back,  why  not  the  housewife,  who  not 
only  does  cooking  but  also  a  hundred  other  things. 

Avaunt  ancient  superstitions  and  affections  about 
dark  low-set  closets  and  come  out  in  the  open  on  high 
with  your  utensils  and  whether  you  have  a  maid  or  not, 

250 


WHEN  THE  POT  HANGS  HIGH  251 

some  one's  back  will  be  preserved,  if  not  for  higher  for 
more  things! 

The  Argument  for  Hanging 

I  have  written  the  above  in  the  past  tense — ^but  it  is 
really  existent  to-day  in  the  majority  of  homes. 
"Why,"  I  asked  a  splendid  housekeeper,  "don't  you 
seal  up  those  dark  receptacles  and  hang  up  your  uten- 
sils?" 

"Gracious,"  said  she,  "if  I  hang  them  up  they'd  get 
all  dusty  and  it  wouldn't  be  sanitary.  Ridiculous," 
quoth  she ! 

"But,  my  dear  friend,  do  you  think  those  dark  closets 
are  dust-proof  and  do  you  think  darkness  is  a  germ 
killer?" 

The  truth  is  these  closets,  away  from  light,  are  almost 
ominous ! 

"But,"  continued  my  friend,  "if  I  decided  to  hang 
my  things  up,  where  could  I  do  it  in  this  tiny  kitchen? 
It's  all  right  in  modern  kitchens,  but  here  it  is  im- 
possible ! ' ' 

Here  she  touched  a  universal  note — in  fact,  two  notes 
— the  old  fashioned  kitchen,  and  no  room.  Two  notes 
upon  which  the  housekeeper  plays  monotonous  choruses 
to  excuse  modern  advances. 

"My  dear  friend,"  snapped  I — "once  upon  a  time  I 
ran  an  experiment  station  in  a  tenement  kitchen — the 
kitchen  was  four  feet  wide  by  ten  feet  long — in  it 
were  tubs,  stove,  glass  closets  under  which  were  the  pot 
and  pan  receptacles.  I  was  too  busy  to  stoop  every 
time  I  needed  anything  so  I  had  the  carpenter  nail  on 
the  wall  over  the  tubs  and  over  the  sink  a  piece  of  wood 
three  inches  wide  (this  will  go  in  even  the  tiniest  kitchen) 
into  which  I  screwed  hooks,  and  there  I  hung  every 
tool  I  used.    Later  I  had  a  shelf  nailed  above  it  and  made 


252  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

my  work  a  smooth  performance.  I  felt  like  a  carpenter 
working  at  my  bench  with  all  my  tool  'en  plein  air.'  " 
And  I  went  on  to  say,  as  I  had  a  good  opportunity,  there 
is  no  reason  why  your  kitchen  can't  be  made  like  a 
tool  chest.  No  man  would  tolerate  breaking  his  very 
strong  back  to  get  a  pan,  or  his  nerve  to  pull  out  a 
drawer,  which  so  often  sticks,  for  a  can  opener !  Not  he. 
Could  you  imagine  a  carpenter,  a  butcher,  or  any  one 
else,  who  worked  at  everything  requiring  sharp  tools, 
or  fine  quality  tools,  jumbling  them  all  up  together  in  a 
drawer  that  moves  in  and  out,  provoking  an  earth- 
quake rhythm  among  the  tools,  or  a  little  closet  in  which 
everything  is  banged  to  pieces  and  has  to  be  groped  for  ? 

Good  Tools,  Good  Treatment 

No ! — No  one  could.  Because  no  tools  will  last  under 
such  treatment  and  good  tools  are  worth  keeping — and 
the  very  best  are  reduced  to  nothingness  if  not  kept  well. 
It's  a  case,  pure  and  simple,  of  noblesse  oblige. 

There  is  a  good  housekeeping  reason,  too,  for  things 
to  be  hung  up,  and  this  is:  when  things  are  in  plain 
sight  they  become  a  constant  curse  to  the  cook  or  to 
the  beholder  if  they  are  not  scrupulously  clean. 
In  the  kitchen  of  "suspended  animation"  you  are 
pretty  sure  to  have  clean  and  spotless  pots  and  pans,  to 
have  knives  whose  edges  are  not  nicked,  and  to  have  egg 
beaters  and  mayonnaise  mixers  that  are  not  so  out  of 
kilter  that  you  get  nervous  prostration  in  coming  in 
contact  with  a  scrambled  egg  or  Russian  dressing. 
These  are  facts  to  grapple  with. 

To  prove  it,  just  visit  a  man-manned  restaurant  or 
hotel  kitchen  some  time — and  there  you  will  see  the 
brightest,  cleanest  looking  copper,  aluminum,  nickel, 
etc.,  etc.,  pots  and  pans  hung  up  on  racks  near  operat- 
ing centers — ready  to  be  used.    If  this  were  anti-hy- 


WHEN  THE  POT  HANGS  HIGH  253 

giene  the  Board  of  Health  would  intervene.  Anyhow, 
water  is  at  hand  in  a  kitchen  and  dust  is  easily  swabbed 
out! 

Of  course,  in  the  new  kitchen,  racks  are  built,  and 
you  have  no  choice,  so  you  accept  the  pleasanter  con- 
dition without  cavil. 

In  this  connection  I  can't  forbear  to  mention  the 
apartment  garbage  can  which  owns  a  hygienic  lid  which 
sits  a  foot  above  the  floor  and  for  every  useless  egg  shell 
to  be  thrown  away  the  worker  must  needs  bend  double 
to  remove  the  lid,  empty  her  plate,  put  on  the  lid  and 
raise  herself  up.  Time  and  energy  lost.  This  could 
easily  be  on  a  little  stool  under  a  common  kitchen  table 
in  which  a  round  hole  could  be  cut,  or  alongside  the 
garbage  creating  table  and  the  stuff  slid  into  it,  if  it 
can  be  bought  with  a  sliding  lid.  There  is  also  a  pail 
whose  lid  is  lifted  by  a  pedal  worked  by  the  foot. 

Hanging  Within  Keach 

To  be  sure,  this  does  not  mean  to  hang  up  the  kitchen 
table  or  the  stove,  but  it  does  mean  to  keep  things,  that 
are  used  hundreds  of  times  every  day,  within  the  reach 
of  your  hands  without  superfluous  stooping  and  bending. 
It  means,  too,  that  cleaning  utensils,  such  as  brooms 
and  dusters  and  rags,  if  hung  in  separate  racks  in  or 
outside  of  a  closet,  will  live  longer  in  good  condition  than 
if  hurled  into  a  corner  of  a  closet  where  they  get  smashed 
and  have  their  one  hundred  per  cent,  utility  diminished. 

Where  a  culinary  tool  decreases  in  efficiency,  the 
human  element  effort  is  necessarily  increased,  and  un- 
necessary fatigue  ensues — then:  sloppy  preparation  of 
food  and  then,  dyspepsia. 

Now,  don't  you  see  the  inevitable  result  of  slipshod 
kitchen  arrangement? 

If,  for  any  reason,  you  like  closets  for  pots  and  pans, 


254  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

have  glass  doors  on  them  and  have  them  no  lower  than 
thirty -two  inches  from  the  floor.  This  way  you  don't 
have  to  stoop,  the  light  penetrates,  and  an  arrangement 
like  this  has  only  the  opening  and  shutting  of  the  door 
in  its  disfavor  and  the  fitting  in  of  the  utensils  each 
time  and  their  possible  denting.  Even  the  finest  utensils 
will  dent  with  improper  provocation.  Open  shelves  are 
very  convenient,  too,  if  you  do  not  care  to  hang  things 
up. 

If  you  have  a  niche  for  each  tool,  the  work  becomes 
almost  piay. 


CHAPTER  XXIX 

BRUSHING   UP  ON  BRUSHES 

HOUSEHOLD  work  is  drudgery  unless  it  is  put 
on  as  nice  (I  say  "nice"  advisedly  in  its  purest 
sense)  a  plane  as  any  other  craft.  The  best  way  of  do- 
ing this  is  to  have  tools  that  are  adapted  to  the  different 
kinds  of  work — and  furthermore,  and  quite  as  impor- 
tant, tools  you  are  proud  of,  proud  enough  to  keep  well 
and  advantageously. 

The  carpenter  does  not  use  one  kind  of  tool  for  every- 
thing— he  does  not  use  a  chisel  where  a  plane  could  be 
used  not  only  to  better  the  job  but  for  his  own  comfort 
or  pleasure.  The  same  thing  can  be  said  of  the  painter, 
who  would  not  use  a  whitewash  brush  for  a  varnish 
job.  But  the  housekeeper  seems  to  think  it  part  of 
her  duty,  somehow,  to  use  a  one-for-all  tool,  and  then 
wonder  why  her  work  is  irksome  and  her  job  ill  done. 
It  is  very  often  difiSeult  to  get  a  maid  to  use  the  proper 
brush,  but  you  will  find,  if  you  do  your  own  work,  that 
you  will  simplify  it  by  using  the  right  brush  at  the 
right  time.  The  long  handled  type  for  long  distance 
work,  the  short  for  local  jobs,  soft  ones  for  delicate  and 
so  on.  This  careful  work  too  will  preserve  the  finishes 
of  various  things  which  must  needs  be  brushed  and  save 
the  cost  of  renewing  paints  and  varnishes. 

Brush  work  in  the  home  is  the  most  pregnable  of 
citadels,  but  one  that  can  be  easily  fortified  against 
calumnies  by  a  little  attention  to  what  a  brush  is,  does, 
and  can  be. 

255 


256  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Of  course,  a  brush  is  meant  to  brush.  The  two  main 
classes  of  brushes  in  which  you  are  interested  are  the 
household  and  personal.  Of  these  two  we  will  discuss 
the  household  and  just  touch  in  passing  the  personal 
brush  (such  as  nail  brush,  clothes,  etc.)>  and  will  not 
enter  into  the  paint-brush  story  even  though  the  paint- 
brush is  in  household  use  on  a  surprising  number  of 
occasions. 

Bristles  and  fibers  and  hair  are  the  brush  of  the  brush. 
The  finest  brushes  are  of  bristle  and  hair  and  the  less 
fine  are  of  fiber  save  where  bristle  would  not  function 
any  better  for  the  job  than  fiber.  Hair  is  used  in  some 
brushes  where  fine  work  and  delicate  surfaces  are  in- 
volved. For  example,  the  shaving  brush  is  of  hair,  the 
silver  brush  of  bristle,  the  whisk  of  fiber.  A  room  wall 
brush,  too,  is  often  of  hair  to  save  the  paper  or  wall 
finish. 

Bristles  come  from  the  hog's  (or  boar's)  back,  and  the 
colder  the  country  in  which  this  quadruped  roams  the 
longer  and  tougher  the  bristle.  Therefore,  the  Siberian 
bristle  has  always  been  the  toughest — and  the  Chinese 
have  come  a  close  second.  We  get  bristles,  too,  from 
France  and  Belgium.  The  bristles  from  the  United 
States  are  not  tough,  as  we  kill  the  hog  too  soon — ^for 
bacon.  However,  for  a  soft  brush  these  bristles  are 
very  fine.  Japan  imports  bristles  and  so  did  Austria 
before  1914. 

The  resilient,  springy  quality  in  the  bristle  cannot  be 
duplicated  in  any  other  brush  material.  Due  to-day  to 
the  disorganized  trade  conditions,  with  Europe  and 
Asia,  the  bristle  brush  is  almost  a  luxury. 

The  American  brush  has  been  conceded  to  be  as  fine 
as  the  European  or  magically  "imported"  brush,  as 
there  is  not  any  place  to-day  where  the  home  is  being 


BRUSHING  UP  ON  BRUSHES  257 

studied  by  the  brush  makers  as  it  is  being  done  in 
America. 

Bristles  don't  break  if  bent — and  the  longer  the 
bristle,  the  stiffer  and  stouter  is  the  butt  end  by  which 
it  is  securely  fastened.  Therefore  all  hail  the  wild  old 
hog! 

Horsehair,  badger,  camel's  hair,  etc.,  are  ideal  ma- 
terials for  some  brushes.  Many  household  brushes  are 
made  of  horsehair,  shaving  brushes  of  badger,  and  the 
artist's  brush  is  made  of  camel's  hair  when  it  can  be 
had.  Hearth  brushes  are  sometimes  made  of  the  mane 
hair  of  the  horse,  wall  brushes,  too;  sometimes  goat 
hair  is  used.  Among  other  brushes  made  of  horsehair 
frequently  are  the  crumb  (table),  pastry,  bottle  and 
dish  washing  (white  hair).  The  very  best  white  horse- 
hair comes  from  the  Russian  pony  and  is  very  nearly 
as  stiff  as  bristles.  The  black  horsehair  of  the  finest 
grade  is  also  imported,  as  the  domestic  is  not  as  good. 
Other  horsehair  comes  from  China,  Australia,  South 
America. 

Fiber  or  Bristle 

When  you  buy  a  brush,  if  you  don't  know  a  fiber 
from  a  bristle,  ask  your  dealer.  He  may  say:  "No 
this  is  not  bristle,  it  is  made  of  Bass"  (or  Bassine,  Kitool, 
Palmyra  or  Palmetto  or  Rice  Root,  or  Mixed  Fibers,  or 
Union,  or  Union  Marble,  etc.).  If  he  is  a  good  dealer 
you  need  not  fear,  if  his  price  is  not  very  low  you 
need  not  be  suspicious,  because  no  good  brush  is  in- 
expensive to-day  and  no  cheap  brush  is  a  saving. 

Of  all  the  fibers  Tampico  (from  Mexico,  Central 
America  largely),  the  product  of  a  species  of  cactus 
plant,  is  probably  the  best  fiber.  Palmyra,  too,  is  an 
excellent  fiber,  and  comes  from  a  plant  indigenous  to 


258  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

regions  near  the  Indian  Ocean  and  the  Valley  of  the 
Tigris.  What  geographical  scope  we  have  in  our 
homes ! 

There  are  trade  names  for  fibers  such  as  Ox  fiber, 
a  fine  quality  of  fiber  from  the  cabbage  palmetto,  and 
many  other  trade  named  fibers  which  must  be  procured 
by  ye  purchasers  only  from  purveyors  of  royal  lineage. 

Brushes  are  made  of  mixtures  of  bristle  and  hair, 
such  as  some  flesh  brushes  or  hand  brushes,  the  bristles 
taking  the  brunt  of  the  action  and  holding  the  water 
better,  yet  protecting  the  hair.  Fiber  and  bristles  are 
sometimes  used  in  combination,  too. 

If  you  buy  an  "all  bristle"  brush  you  don't  want  a 
mongrel  variety.  If  it  is  a  mixture  you  are  getting 
a  usable  and  amplj'^  priced  brush. 

Black  bristle  is  often  made  into  pipe,  window,  stove, 
wall,  radiator,  milk  bottle  and  percolator  brushes. 

The  color,  black  or  white,  of  bristles  doesn't  stamp 
quality.  In  some  cases  black  bristles  are  bleached  for 
esthetic  reasons.  For  example,  a  white  tooth  brush  is 
more  attractive.  The  natural  white  bristle  usually 
comes  from  China  and  the  natural  black  from  Siberia. 

Fibers  in  browns  and  whites,  blacks  and  whites  are 
mixed  in  brushes  for  appearances.  Color  in  brushes  is 
a  matter  of  attractiveness  and  does  not  alter  the  use- 
fulness or  the  wear  of  them. 

The  number  and  variety  of  brushes  on  the  market 
are  tremendous — one  firm  makes  sixty-nine  ordinary 
household  brushes,  and  besides  this  has  others  tucked 
away,  to  say  nothing  of  the  personal,  industrial  and 
professional  classes  of  brushes.  Thousands  is  not  an 
exaggerated  figure  to  apply  to  the  variety  of  brushes 
for  all  uses  on  the  market  to-day. 

Another  firm  shows  twenty-nine  different  kinds  of 
scrubbing  brushes    (all  of  fiber — Palmyra,   Rice-Root, 


BRUSHING  UP  ON  BRUSHES  259 

White  Tampico,  Ox  Fiber,  Palmetto,  etc.,  etc.)  of  vary- 
ing shapes,  sizes  and  color.  The  object  being  in  every 
case  for  the  purcha.ser  to  buy  the  brush  that  fits  the 
hand  and  the  job. 

Brushes  Must  Brush  Only 

Brushes,  like  any  other  implement,  should  do  their 
own  jobs  only  and  nothing  else.  A  brush  that  gouges 
and  does  a  chisel's  work  is  a  poor  brush,  no  matter 
what  quality  the  fiber  or  brush  mark.  The  brush  you 
buy  for  your  wall  or  your  hardwood  floor  must  not 
scratch,  and  must  have  nothing  in  its  construction  that 
can  scratch.  Likewise,  the  brush  you  buy  for  your 
toilet  bowl  must  not  scratch  or  wear  the  enamel  and 
the  bristles  must  be  bristles,  for  if  of  fiber  you  will  have 
your  brush  acting  like  a  blotter.  Your  brush  must 
clean  and  brush,  it  must  not  become  a  bacteria  nestling 
haven. 

Brushes  bought  for  the  radiator  can  get  under  the 
piano  and  into  small  spaces,  but  they  are  still  brushes 
and  the  more  things  they  brush  the  better,  of  course. 
Furthermore,  bristles  in  a  stove  brush  should  not  be 
stiff  enough  to  engrave  designs  on  the  nickel-work  on 
the  stove. 

The  same  may  be  said  f(Jr  the  pot-scouring  brush.  It 
(if  made  of  fiber  or  bristle)  must  not  chip  enamel  or 
aluminum  by  any  part  of  its  construction. 

The  brush  that  fits  its  works,  saves  time.  For  ex- 
ample, the  brush  that  is  meant  for  the  toilet  bowl  should 
be  shaped  to  fit  the  toilet  trap.  It  should  be  so  built 
that  its  wire  will  not  rust;  after  it  is  shaken  out  it 
ought  not  to  drip  when  hung  up ;  the  bristles  should  not 
mat  or  separate  and  should  be  so  made  as  to  bend  to  your 
will.  If  it  is  of  fiber,  this  brush  will  mat  and  become  of 
no  avail  in  short  order.    Such  a  brush  can  be  used  as  a 


260  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

bath-tub  cleaning  brush  and  will  not  break  the  back 
when  functioning. 

Baldness  is  the  worst  disease  of  bad  brushes.  Bristles 
and  fiber  must  be  stitched  and  anchored  so  as  not  to  shed. 
The  frosting  brush  would  be  a  danger  if  a  bristle  were 
swallowed  with  a  bite  of  cake.  You  probably  know  the 
agony  of  a  clothes  brush  that  sheds  bristles.  The  back- 
less twisted-in-wire  brushes  give  brush  area  on  all  sides, 
and  are  so  secured  that  the  bristle  is  fixed  indefinitely. 
The  brush  that  is  all  brush,  which  has  no  emerging 
back  to  scratch,  and  which  brushes  at  every  angle, 
saves  time  and  extra  effort,  too. 

The  Proteaiq^  Vegetable  Brush 

One  of  the  most  useful  brushes  on  the  market  is  the 
vegetable  brush.  A  little  brush  whose  uses  are  many. 
If  there  are  a  few  in  a  household  they  can  be  used  for 
washing  vegetables,  scraping  silk  from  corn,  scrubbing 
poultry,  scouring  pots  and  pans,  cleaning  white  shoes, 
sprinkling  clothes,  for  they  hold  enough  water  and  scrub- 
bing dishes. 

For  the  kitchenette  to-day  the  sink  brush  and  dish- 
washing brush  with  their  long  handles  are  a  boon  for 
the  housewife  as  she  can  keep  her  hands  in  condition  by 
not  getting  them  into  hot  water  so  constantly.  These 
brushes  have  various  other  obvious  uses  besides. 

Don't  use  paper  to  grease  pans  or  glaze  cakes;  use  a 
pastry  brush.  Of  course  this  brush  must  be  made  with- 
out glue  or  cement  so  that  it  can  be  frequently  washed 
in  scalding  water  and  the  bristles  still  be  where  they 
should  be. 

A  brush  small  enough  for  the  percolater  tube  is  to  be 
had.  It  is  good  for  teapot  spouts,  gas  burner  holes, 
typewriter  interstices,  etc. 


BRUSHING  UP  ON  BRUSHES  261 

Among  other  brushes  to  which  you  may  need  intro- 
duction are: 

Wicker-Reed.  This  gets  in  the  tiny  places  so  annoy- 
ing to  clean  with  mammoth  tools. 

Refrigerator  (or  pipe  brush).  This  is  a  fairy  wand 
to  keep  off  plumbers  from  your  estate.  Almost  a  pipe- 
dream- in  its  general  pipe-cleaning  skill. 

Hearth  Brush.  A  good  utilitarian  tool  for  those 
owning  not  only  a  home  but  a  hearth. 

Radiator.  Gets  around  a  radiator  as  if  it  loved  it. 
Can  be  used  under  a  piano,  etc.  Good  for  chandeliers, 
under  oven  or  gas  stove,  etc. 

Comb  Cleaner.  The  same  brush  company  which 
makes  the  above  backless,  and  twisted  wire  brushes  has 
just  put  a  little  comb  cleaning  brush  on  the  market.  It 
it  like  a  little  lawn  mower  which  travels  over  and  through 
the  comb  teeth. 

Brush  cleaner.  This  new  thing  is  intended  to  loosen 
the  soil  which  attaches  itself  to  brushes  by  scraping  it 
off.    It  is  made  of  bone  entirely. 

Remember  there  are  hundreds  of  brushes  and  that 
they  are  designed  for  every  kind  of  thing,  and  best  of  all, 
there  are  companies  who  exist  just  to  fit  you  out  with 
brushes  and  who  will  advise  you  just  what  kinds  to  get. 

Mops  a-nd  Dusters 

Just  a  word  or  two  about  mops,  which  are  more  and 
more  coming  to  be  made  of  cotton  which,  though  not 
technically  absorbent  cotton,  does  absorb  the  dust. 
They  are  not  oily,  but  chemically  treated  and  so  will 
not  hurt  the  rugs.  They  should  be  of  wire  construc- 
tion, no  parts  exposed  so  as  to  scratch.  They  must  be 
of  strong,  enduring  cotton,  reversible,  washable,  with  an 
adjustable  long  handle,  usable  for  ceiling,  walls,  doors, 
windows,  pictures,  baseboards  and  floors;  good  for  cor- 


262  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

ners.  The  handle  should  be  at  least  long  enough  to 
ob^^ate  all  back  bending. 

Of  course  there  is  a  dish  mop  for  washing  cups, 
pitchers  or  dishes,  and  the  light  weight  wet  mop,  with 
long  handle,  of  washable,  reversible,  corner-hunting, 
absorbant  cotton  yarn. 

The  duster  that  dusts  and  does  not  smudge  is  what  is 
needed.  The  one  that  can  dust  finger  marks  off  polished 
surfaces,  absorb  the  dust  and  can  get  into  difficult  places 
without  breaking  the  back  or — more  important  still — 
the  heart.  These  and  many  other  brushes  are  to  be  had 
for  your  comfort  and  for  the  asking — and  paying. 

Many  times  in  the  use  of  fiber  brushes,  whether  for 
personal  or  household  uses,  it  is  wise  to  immerse  them 
completely  in  water  for  one-half  minute  and  set  them 
aside  to  dry,  resting  on  the  fiber  face  of  the  brush  in- 
stead of  the  wooden  back  or  on  one  of  the  ends.  Laying 
the  brush  flat  down  permits  the  entire  surface  to  drain 
in  the  shortest  possible  time.  The  object  of  dipping 
the  brush  in  water  before  use  is  to  overcome  a  factory 
defect  which  is  possible  in  some  factories,  for  once  the 
fibers  of  the  brush  are  dipped  in  water,  the  water  is 
drawn  up  into  the  hole  by  capillary  attraction  and 
rusts  the  staple  which  is  of  iron  wire;  and  as  this 
staple  starts  to  rust,  it  forms  a  bond  with  the  wood  that 
makes  the  anchoring  permanent.  Should  there  be  one 
or  two  loose  tufts,  they  will  be  cured  by  the  rusting 
process. 

After  using  the  brush,  shake  out  the  water  and  place 
it  face  downward  or  standing  on  the  bristles  so  that  it 
will  drain  and  dry. 

You  are  particularly  interested  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  brushes,  except  to  get  what  you  pay  for. 

The  handles  of  your  brushes  must  be  comfortable, 
smooth,  long  enough  in  some  instances  to  save  your  back 


BRUSHING  UP  ON  BRUSHES  263 

from  pain  and  short  or  small  enough  to  fit  your  hand. 
In  all  cases  they  must  be  firm  and  reliable.  The  handles 
are  preferably  not  joined  with  a  swivel  joint,  as  this 
is  apt  to  turn.     The  clamp  is  a  better  fastening. 

In  the  best  grade  of  household  brush  most  of  the  han- 
dles are  of  wood  or  twisted  wire,  treated  so  as  to  be 
practically  rustless. 

The  nail  brush  and  tooth  brushes,  of  course,  are 
often  of  French  ivory  and  the  handle  is  so  made  as  to 
allow  no  dirt  to  remain  in  the  handle.  Often,  too,  the 
bristles  can  be  taken  out  to  be  cleaned  or  replaced. 
(The  hair-brush  is  a  story  in  itself.) 

Brushes  must  be  easily  cleaned  and  cared  for. 

Brush  racks  can  be  bought  or  carpenters  make  them 
very  simply. 

Above  all,  you  want  a  brush  that  brushes,  whose 
bristles  or  fibers  are  anchored  to  stay,  whose  utility  goes 
with  years,  not  months,  whose  death  depends  not  on  use 
but  abuse,  and  to  whose  employing  you  look  forward 
with  pleasure. 


CHAPTER  XXX 

THE  QUIET  HOUSE 

THE  entrance  to  a  house  is  like  the  tonic  chord  of 
a  sonata.  It  gives  you  the  key,  the  introduction  to 
the  atmosphere  of  the  home.  You  really  get  an  impres- 
sion of  a  home  immediately  upon  entering  the  hallway. 
It  is  also  true  that  on  entering  a  house  you  are  lured  or 
repelled  by  the  sounds  in  it,  whether  from  the  house 
itself  or  the  people  living  there.  If  you  are  greeted  by 
loud  voices,  slamming  doors,  creaking  stairs,  there  is 
immediately  the  impression  that  this  particular  home  is 
not  well  ordered  and  that  the  people  in  it  are  not  at 
peace.  But  if  you  are  at  once  enveloped  by  quiet  and 
loveliness,  a  feeling  of  peace  is  suggested  and  involun- 
tarily we  expect  to  meet  a  charming  family. 

The  good  architect  always  gives  the  builder  a  set  of 
plans  that  should  make  a  satisfactory  house,  but,  as  an 
eminent  architect  recently  said,  ' '  It  seems  to  be  the  aim 
of  most  builders  to  chajige  every  detail  of  the  archi- 
tect's plan."  So  it  is  a  wise  idea  to  watch  the  con- 
struction of  your  home  so  that  when  the  house  is  ac- 
tually built  you  will  find  it  not  only  attractive  to  look 
at  but  so  well  constructed  in  every  detail  that  there 
are  no  complaints  to  make  as  to  leaks  or  noise  or  cold. 
If  a  house  is  built  of  good  materials,  is  well  planned, 
is  well  put  together,  a  sense  of  peace  is  usually  the  re- 
sult. In  order  to  accomplish  this,  every  detail  of  the 
house  must  be  considered,  the  windows  and  the  doors, 
the  stairs  and  floors. 

264 


THE  QUIET  HOUSE  265 

Due  to  the  high  cost  of  building,  heavy  masonry- 
is  not  always  used  in  the  division  of  rooms  and 
the  separating  of  stairs  from  rooms.  Where  a  slight 
partition  only  is  required,  there  are  on  the  market  to- 
day asbestos,  felt,  and  composition  ''boards"  which  ren- 
der excellent  service,  and  are  often  fireproof  and  sound- 
proof. 

To  shut  away  a  nursery,  these  light  weight,  sound- 
proof partitions  are  admirable.  They  not  only  leave 
a  nursery  perfectly  quiet  at  night,  shut  away  from  all 
the  disturbances  of  the  house,  but  during  the  daytime 
they  keep  the  family  from  hearing  the  play,  the  romp- 
ing, or  the  unhappy  times  in  the  nursery.  Of  course, 
the  arrangement  of  rooms,  such  as  the  relation  of  the 
nursery  and  kitchen  to  other  parts  of  the  house,  has 
much  to  do  with  the  peace  of  the  home.  The  service 
end  of  the  house  should,  so  far  as  possible,  be  shut 
away  by  halls  and  doors,  from  too  close  communication 
with  the  living  part  of  the  house.  Think  of  this  when 
you  are  planning  your  home. 

All  uncovered  floors  are  noisy  no  matter  how  well 
they  are  laid  or  how  nicely  they  are  finished.  Of  what- 
ever your  floor  is  made  it  should  be  well  constructed, 
over  an  adequate  sub-floor ;  if  of  wood,  it  should  be  put 
down  so  compactly  that  there  is  never  a  sound  from  it. 
But  when  it  comes  to  quiet  you  must  have  the  carpets  or 
rugs.  Bare  floor  never  produces  it,  under  any  con- 
ditions. 

Metal  weather  strips!  So  important  are  they  in  re- 
lation to  comfort  and  peace  in  the  house  that  they  should 
really  be  included  in  the  specifications  for  the  building 
of  a  home.  Besides  keeping  out  wintry  blasts,  they  con- 
tribute much  to  a  quiet  atmosphere.  In  the  first  place, 
they  help  to  keep  the  din  of  the  street  from  indoors; 
also  when  they  are  applied  to  the  interior  of  doors,  the 


266  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

noise  from  one  room  doesn't  easily  reach  another.  Win- 
dows that  carry  weather  strips  slide  up  and  down  easily. 
And  a  good  word  can  be  said  of  the  weather-stripped 
door.  A  door  with  this  silencer  about  it  closes  quietly 
and  surely ;  even  if  one  is  in  a  hurry,  the  door  does  not 
show  it.  Another  device  for  lessening  the  sound  of  doors 
shutting  is  a  piston  noise  retarder.  It  has  an  air 
cushion  which  is  attached  tor  the  frame  of  the  door  and 
the  piston  is  fixed  to  the  door.  This  keeps  the  door 
from  slamming.  Screen  doors,  which  are  of  no  use  un- 
less they  shut  quite  tightly,  should  be  fitted  with  this 
device.  Children  will  bless  it  and  so  will  the  servants 
in  the  house.  All  these  things  should  be  considered 
both  as  to  price  and  comfort  when  you  are  planning  your 
house,  so  that  M'hen  you  first  begin  to  live  in  it  you  find 
peace  and  quiet,  instead  of  a  succession  of  irritating 
worries. 

A  small  device  but  one  not  to  be  regarded  lightly,  is 
a  set  of  rubber  or  glass  furniture  protectors  which, 
when  affixed  to  the  legs  of  any  piece  of  furniture,  make 
it  possible  to  move  it  about  without  noise  and  without 
any  especial  effort.  These  protectors  also  save  the  floor 
and  keep  the  carpets  from  being  worn  and  torn.  They 
are  easily  attached  and  not  expensive. 

The  "silence  cloth"  on  the  dining  table,  whether  made 
of  cloth  or  asbestos,  is  another  means  of  lessening  dis- 
turbing sounds  in  a  house. 

And  in  some  homes  I  have  known  it  to  be  a  rule  that 
all  the  servants  must  wear  rubber  heels.  This  not  only 
lessens  the  noise  in  the  house,  but  it  mitigates,  to  a  very 
great  extent,  the  weariness  felt  by  busy  maids  who  are 
on  their  feet  practically  all  day  long. 

A  great  deal  of  the  clattering  sound  in  a  kitchen  oan 
be  avoided  by  lining  the  cutlery  drawers  with  felt,  so 
that  when  silver  and  knives  are  put  away  the  clashing 


THE  QUIET  HOUSE  267 

of  pieces  together  is  avoided.  Pantry  dresser  draw- 
ers should  be  lined  in  the  same  way.  This  lining  felt 
can  easily  be  installed  by  pasting  or  tacking,  and  it  is 
not  expensive. 

A  place  for  everything  and  everything  in  its  place  is 
an  especially  good  idea  in  connection  with  the  pots  and 
pans  in  a  kitchen.  Much  of  the  annoying  sound  from 
this  source  can  be  obviated  by  hanging  the  utensils,  be- 
cause most  of  the  sound  is  due  to  the  falling  together  of 
pots  and  pans  as  they  are  piled  on  top  of  each  other 
when  being  put  away  on  the  shelves  after  use. 

One  of  the  chief  offenders  against  the  charm  of  the 
home  in  the  matter  of  noise  is  cheaply  constructed 
plumbing.  This  is  not  only  unsanitary,  but  at  times 
deeply  embarrassing.  Good  plumbing  is  an  absolute 
essential  in  the  well-constructed  house.  Nothing  will 
betray  your  economy  so  promptly  as  plumbing  that  is 
not  of  good  materials  and  well  placed.  It  is  necessary 
to  get  all  your  fixtures  from  the  most  reputable  dealer, 
and  have  the  best  workman  put  them  in,  and  then  you 
will  save  money  in  the  long  run  and  charm  and  peace 
will  envelop  the  plumbing  side  of  life. 

The  bathtub  with  a  water  inlet  so  fixed  that  there  is 
only  a  little  noise  for  a  few  seconds  or  none  at  all  is  a 
point  of  perfection  that  manufacturers  are  making 
every  effort  to  attain.  Perhaps  the  nearest  to  it  is  a 
device  hung  very  low  in  the  tub  so  that  after  the  first  few 
inches  of  water  the  faucet  is  covered,  and  the  noise  from 
the  inflowing  water  is  smothered. 

People  who  will  not  endure  the  slightest  rattle  or 
creaking  in  an  automobile  will  live  for  months  with  a 
squeaking,  leaking  faucet.  A  slight  adjustment  will 
usually  remedy  the  difficulty ;  sometimes  only  a  washer 
is  needed.  And  even  an  entirely  new  faucet  is  not  a 
purchase  with  very  serious  consequences. 


268  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

As  yet  no  way  has  been  found  to  modify  the  noise  of 
the  telephone  without  lessening  its  effectiveness.  The 
telephone  is  rung  to  catch  your  attention  and  if  you 
muffle  the  bell  too  completely  you  are  liable  to  lose  an 
important  call.  If  you  have  a  very  noisy  telephone  bell 
in  an  apartment  where  every  sound  is  heard,  you  can 
muffle  it  slightly  with  a  little  pad  of  absorbent  cotton. 
This  is  an  especially  good  thing  to  try  where  the  sound 
of  the  bell  disturbs  an  invalid  or  little  children. 

Rugs  are  a  delightful  way  to  reduce  noise  in  the  hall. 
A  long  runner  that  goes  the  whole  length  of  the  hall 
and  about  half  its  width  vdll  keep  your  hall  quiet  for 
your  own  house  and  prevent  its  disturbing  your  neigh- 
bors. Of  course,  in  a  house  where  the  hall  is  large 
and  capacious,  the  surface  is  much  more  interesting 
covered  with  groups  of  rugs;  a  runner  spoils  its  in- 
terest and  a  carpet  is  less  intriguing. 

Quiet  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  things  to  find  these 
days  in  the  city,  and  also  one  of  the  most  essential 
things  for  one's  work  and  happiness  and  health.  There 
is  only  one  way  to  acquire  it  in  the  modern  home  and 
that  is  to  look  after  every  detail  of  your  house  at  the 
very  beginning. 

After  all,  the  things  that  make  for  quiet  are  in  the 
main  little  things.  Yet  it  takes  thought,  some  experi- 
ence and  a  good  deal  of  attention  to  detail  at  the  be- 
ginning of  making  a  home,  to  insure  in  it  that  pervasive 
charm  which  must  have  for  its  foundation  quiet 
throughout  the  house. 


CHAPTER  XXXI 

OSTRACIZING   THE  PLY 

**nnRY  my  glasses,"  coaxed  a  kind  old  lady,  when 
X  her  young  friend  broke  her  own  bone  rims.  And 
she  did.  But  she  was  far  from  happy — in  fact,  quite 
miserable;  and  her  eyes  took  a  long  time  to  recover 
from  the  ravages  of  the  ill-fitting  glasses. 

Naturally  nobody  should  use  glasses  made  for  another. 
Glasses  that  have  been  more  than  carefully  fitted  to  the 
individual's  eye  are  none  too  good  if  comfort  and  eye 
ease  are  desired. 

So  it  is  with  the  installation  of  screens.  It  may 
sound  queer  to  compare  eye-glasses  and  screens,  but 
nevertheless  the  analogy  is  nearly  perfect.  As  the  eyes 
vary,  so  do  the  apertures  of  the  various  homes.  There- 
fore, unless  screens  are  fitted  carefully  to  each  window, 
door  or  porch  there  will  be  discrepancies,  and  if  one  fly 
or  insect  can  get  in  others  can  and  there  will  be  not  only 
discomfort  but  probably  disease  distribution. 

Swat  the  fly?  No!  Don't  give  yourself  a  chance  to 
swat  it.     Keep  it  out! 

Therefore  if  you  have  a  house  to  screen  do  it  the  best 
way  you  can  or  the  money  spent  will  be  a  dead  loss. 
They  must  be  bug-tight  even  as  a  ship  is  water  tight; 
unless  they  are,  you  will  be  the  host  at  continual  insect 
balls  and  chairman  of  the  rust  convention  and  store  up 
for  yourself  an  irritability  unprecedented.  For  there  is 
no  more  annoying  thing  in  the  home  than  recalcitrant  or 
obstinate  screens. 

269 


270  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

It  is  strange  that  any  missionary  work  need  be  done 
about  screens  because  almost  every  one  agrees  upon  their 
uses  in  health  prevention  and  comfort  assurance,  yet 
withal  the  purchasing  of  them  is  done  ignorantly  and  as 
carelessly  as  the  young  woman  who  uses  anybody's 
glasses  for  her  own  particular  and  peculiar  eyes. 

To  begin  with,  do  not  order  screens  to  be  made  ' '  right 
away";  they  cannot  be  done  in  less  than  a  thirty-day 
month  and  be  made  with  any  finish.  Order  early 
enough  after  you  have  received  estimates  from  the  best 
screen  makers;  then  take  the  estimate  which  gives  you 
the  best  value  after  you  have  either  seen  the  models, 
actual  installations,  or  are  satisfied  that  you  will  get 
the  thing  that  you  need  for  your  particular  case.  The 
skilful  screen  men  treat  your  case  as  individually  as-  the 
oculist  treats  your  eyes. 

Your  screens  should  be : 

1.  Simple  to  manipulate,  should  pull  up,  lower, 
raise  or  thrust  out,  easily  and  happily,  and  should  be 
simply  removed  for  storage  if  necessary  "and  uncom- 
plicatedly   re-applied. 

2.  All  the  hardware  should  be  inseparable  from  the 
body  of  the  screen — that  is:  catches,  bolts,  locks,  etc. 

3.  All  the  metal  work  should  be  rustless  and 
adapted  to  the  region  in  which  you  live. 

4.  Frames  must  be  rigid  and  wire  cloth  taut,  well 
fastened  at  every  point  in  the  frame,  not  sag,  and  be 
rigid. 

5.  Wooden  frame  screens  must  be  of  kiln-dried, 
seasoned  wood,  and  when  expedient,  of  hard  wood. 

6.  Renewal  of  wire  cloth  must  be  a  simple  matter 
without  an  armory  of  fancy  tools. 

7.  All  should  be  neat,  attractive,  matching  the 
window,  door  or  porch  trim  where  they  are  placed. 

8.  They  must  be  a  pleasure  to  use,  not  limiting  the 


OSTRACIZING  THE  FLY  271 

use   of  the   window   or   door   screened,   nor   breaking 
the  back  or  arm  when  in  use. 

Screen  frames  are  made  of  metals  and  of  wood.  Due 
to  the  architectural  design  of  some  windows  or  doors  it  is 
necessary  for  a  wood  frame  to  be  used,  and  for  the 
same  reason  it  is  often  wiser  to  use  a  metal  frame. 
Wherever  metal  frames  can  be  used  they  are  the  best 
to  buy,  as  they  will  stand  up  longer,  and,  if  the  best  be 
bought,  they  will  need  less  renovation,  as  they  can  be 
made  rigid  at  only  half  the  width  of  the  wood  screen. 
Furthermore,  you  get  more  ventilation  than  you  do  with 
the  wood-framed  screen.  Of  course,  you  want  air  and  as 
much  as  you  can  get  of  it;  therefore  the  narrower  the 
frame  the  more  perfect  the  screen. 

The  metals  used  in  frames  are  pretty  much  up  to  the 
quality  of  your  screens'  maker.  They  are  to  be  had  of 
bronze  and  various  concoctions  of  bronze  dependent  on 
the  patents  of  your  purveyor;  of  grass  finish,  copper 
finish,  steel  enameled;  steel  painted;  steel  grained  to 
look  like  the  wood  trim,  steel  galvanized  and  steel  regal- 
vanized;  monel  metal. 

To  be  honest,  there  are  two  better  classifications  of 
screens:  those  that  are  rustless  and  those  that  are  not. 

Monel  metal  is  used  for  seashore  houses,  as  the  salt 
air  does  not  corrode  or  corrupt  it.  Variations  of  the 
bronze  screen  are  also  adapted  to  seashore  use. 

The  painted  steel  screen  has  to  be  painted  over  and 

over  again  to  keep  it  from  rusting  and  wearing  out. 

The   galvanized   screen   is  practically   rustless  and 

the    re-galvanized    is    quite    positively    an    insurance 

against  rust. 

Be  sure  that  when  you  buy  a  bronze  frame  it 
is  not  simply  a  bronze  steel  frame.  Steel  invites 
rust,  and  the  way  to  have  a  rustless  screen  is  to  make 
steel  an  absentee  or  galvanize  it. 


272  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

All  the  hardware  must  be  of  non-rusting  metal. 
No  doubt,  as  soon  as  the  rustless  steel  is  on  the  market 
in  large  quantities,  screen  men  will  be  using'  it  instead 
of  galvanizing,  painting,  etc.,  and  using  it  and  bronze 
and  monel  metals  for  hardware. 

Some  Details 

The  corners  in  the  metal  (and  in  the  wood  frame 
as  well)  have  to  be  of  exquisite  workmanship.  The 
best  types  have  no  screws  or  rivets  or  plates  or  project- 
ions of  any  sort,  yet  are  of  a  perfect  interlocking  or 
welded  construction  and  hold  the  screen  cloth  at  every 
point  with  infallible  tenacity. 

There  is  no  aperture  so  shaped  that  it  cannot  be 
framed  in  screens  by  the  ablest  screen  makers.  In  the 
case  of  the  metal  screen  the  bent  work  is  really  a  work 
of  art,  in  that  they  are  not  puckered  or  pinched,  but 
are  sans  humps,  sans  bumps,  sans  everything  but 
beauty,  rigidity  and  conformity  to  conditions. 

Every  screen  manufacturer  has  his  own  scheme  for 
fastening  the  screen  cloth  firmly  in  both  metal  and 
wood  frames.  The  idea  is  that  the  cloth  must  not  sag 
in  the  frames,  on  the  largest  openings  in  doors  or 
windows,  porches,  etc.,  that  when  either  whacked  by 
the  children  or  inadvertently  struck  by  adults,  the 
cloth  will  remain  taut  and  rigid  and  stay  in  place  in 
the  frame.  The  tubular  metal  frame  in  this  connec- 
tion seems  the  most  logical  metal  frame.  It  is  lighter 
and  as  strong  as  the  other  types  of  metal  frames.  It 
is  so  admirably  contriv'ed  that  the  cloth  can  be  removed 
without  an  extra  tool  and  the  springs  and  slides  can 
be  very  conveniently  and  admirably  fitted. 

The  tracks  or  slide  upon  which  the  metal  frame 
works  must  be  a  slide  and  not  a  series  of  sticking 
points.      This  means  good  workmanship. 


OSTRACIZING  THE  FLY  273 

Another  advantage  the  metal  frame  has  over  the 
wood  frame  is  that  it  does  not  need  the  disfiguring 
hinges;  if  hinged,  it  can  be  hung  on  the  pivot  hinge 
which  leaves  no  scar,  and  is  inserted  in  the  casing  of 
window  and  leaves  no  trace.  When  it  is  to  be  taken 
down  for  the  winter  it  is  simply  lifted  out — no  pins 
to  come  out  "of  hinges  and  no  unscrewing. 

Varieties  of  Metal  Screens 

The  type  of  screen  is  of  course  dependent  upon  the 
kind  of  window  or  opening  you  have  to  screen.  The 
usual  types  are:  sliding  and  rolling,  casement  and 
stationery. 

The  sliding  screens  are  usually  used  on  the  double 
hung  window  and  slide  on  a  slide.  The  best  slides 
are  of  metal  backed  by  wood.  A  double  hung  window 
can  be  screened  by  a  single  screen  or  a  double  one,  de- 
pendent on  the  wish  of  the  purchaser.  The  double 
slide  is  necessary,  of  course,  in  the  case  of  the 
double  screen. 

In  this  connection  it  is  interesting^  to  note  that  there 
is  a  new  type  of  window  lately  on  the  market  that 
arranges  in  the  head  of  the  window  a  space  into  which 
not  only  the  screen  can  disappear  but  the  window  itself, 
and  be  out  of  the  way.  This  of  course  allows  for  a  com- 
pletely open  window  even  more  so  than  the  casement. 
The  pleasure  of  the  slide  screen  is  in  the  fact  of  its 
sliding  and  not  catching  in  a  series  of  struggles  to 
make  it  work.  Springs  and  tubular  grooved  frames 
complete  this  type.  If  the  springs  get  out  of  order  in 
a  tubular  grooved  frame,  they  can  easily  be  taken  out 
and  restored  without  special  tools.  They  are  protected 
also  from  wear  and  rust  and  made  so  as  to  withstand 
atmospheric  ravages.  A  safety  device  should  be  pro- 
vided to  prevent  the  spring  from  accidentally  disen- 


274  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

gaging  itself.  If  the  screen  is  hung  inside  the  window, 
one  hand  lift  is  suflScient.  If  it  is  hung  outside  it  is 
well  to  have  another  on  the  inside  to  be  of  service  when 
removing  them  for  winter  storage. 

Rolling  Screens 

The  acme  of  screen  perfection  is  attained  in  the 
rolling  screen.  At  present  this  type  is  creating  the 
interest  it  deserves,  as  it  is  adapted  to  every  kind  of 
window  and  can  be  kept  on  the  window  throughout 
the  year. 

The  screen  is  of  metal  and  rolls  up  on  a  roller  like 
a  window  shade;  it  is  'of  simple  construction,  durable 
and  non-rusting.  It  is  light  and  rolls  with  great 
despatch.  Some  of  these  shadelike  frames  can  be  raised 
and  lowered  at  any  point  on  the  window  frame;  they 
are  rigid,  do  not  sag  on  the  broadest  of  windows  and 
are  equipped  with  non-rusting  metal,  and  are  either 
of  monel  or  bronze  in  fittings  and  framing.  The  track 
in  which  they  slide  is  also  non-rusting  and  holds  the 
screen  well  in  place.  The  screen  cloth  is  of  the  best 
mesh  and  is  tightly  fastened  at  every  point  in  the 
frame. 

The  fact  that  these  screens  are  inside  the  window 
leaves  them  free  from  the  ravages  of  the  elements, 
which  is  another  point  in  their  favor.  Some  of  these 
screens  are  supplied  with  a  cord  like  a  shade  that 
pulls  up  and  down  the  same  way.  Some  of  these  roller 
screens  have  employed  zinc  on  all  exposed  parts,  and 
this  is  a  rust  preventive.  The  same  brand  employs 
a  waterproofed  fabric  less  expensive  than  metal,  also 
bronze,  copper  and  monel  metal. 

One  especial  type  of  rolling  screen  presents  an  ad- 
vantage that  is  very  desirable — it  has  a  patent  side 
grip  for  the  edges  of  the  monel  screen  cloth  and  a 


-/"fe^  C0i  rrMi  hfo  fho  bs*^ 


Courtety   of   Bolup  Screen   Co. 

THE   SCREEN   WHICH   ROLLS   UP   IS   A   COMFORT  AS  WELL  AS  A 
SAFE  AND  SANE  INSECT  OSTRACIZER 


OSTRACIZING  THE  FLY  277 

perfected  runway  in  which  travels  a  series  of  metal 
clips  holding  the  cloth  and  so  arranged  as  to  roll  up 
without  difficulty.  The  screen  roll  is  assembled  in  a 
zinc  casing,  made  exactly  to  fit  the  window,  which  is 
easily  attached  to  the  "stops"  at  the  top  of  the  window 
frame  and,  when  painted  or  stained  to  match  the  trim, 
looks  like  a  part  of  it  and  is  almost  invisible.  The  two 
side  "runways,"  also  of  zinc,  are  screwed  to  the  window 
"stops"  like  weather  strips  and  are  painted  or  stained 
in  similar  manner  making  them  entirely  inconspicuous. 
The  window  shade  is  then  replaced  just  below  the 
screen  casing  and  neither  interferes  with  the  other. 
The  screen  is  so  adjusted  that  it  easily  pulls  down  or 
pushes  up  at  will,  automatically  locks  itself  on  being 
brought  down  to  the  sill,  and,  after  being  released  by  a 
slight  upward  push  remains  in  whatever  position  it  is 
left.  It  covers  the  whole  of  every  window  and  is  so 
simple  in  construction  and  direct  in  action  that,  once 
installed,  it  should  never  get  out  of  order.  In  case 
of  damage  it  can  easily  be  removed,  new  parts  obtained 
and  as  easily  be  relocated.  In  new  houses,  under  con- 
struction, provision  can  easily  be  made  to  "sink"  the 
screen  casing  and  side  runways  into  the  window  frames 
so  that  they  are  almost  invisible. 

If  the  rolling  screen  is  not  used,  the  casement  can 
be  covered  with  top-hung  outside  screens,  side-hung, 
double-door  style,  or  single  from  one  side  or  stationary 
on  the  outside,  if  the  window  opens  inside.  When 
possible  the  casement  screen  should  be  hung  on  pivot 
hinges  to  permit  ease  of  detaching  for  storage,  and,  as 
we  said  before,  to  leave  the  window  without  the  marring 
of  the  hinge  there  or  removed.  However,  frequently  in 
the  case  of  the  unusually  large  screen  the  use  of  a 
little  strap  hinge  is  sometimes  necessary  to  carry  the 


278  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

extra  weight.  In  marble  window  casing  the  hinge  of 
course  is  an  impossibility, 

A  couple  of  side  levers  on  either  side  of  the  screen 
for  releasing  the  pivots  when  the  screens  are  to  be  taken 
off  for  the  winter  make  the  matter  of  removal  as  easy 
as  "falling  off  a  log." 

The  top  hinge  screen  on  the  outside  of  the  window 
which  pushes  out  from  the  inside  has  to  be  hung  very 
securely  and  the  bolts  and  pivots  and  handles  and 
adjusters  have  to  be  made  to  perfection.  The  adjuster 
for  pushing  this  window  out  or  open  must  be  a  pleasure 
to  use  or  else  this  type  of  screen  will  be  a  curse.  There 
is  an  adjuster  now  on  the  market  that  is  put  on  the 
window  in  such  a  way  that  the  screen  can  be  opened 
or  closed  without  opening  the  inside  of  the  window. 
A  double  insurance  against  inroads  of  bugs  while  open- 
ing the  window  to  adjust  screen ! 

Put  up  to  "  stay  put ' '  stationary  screens  are  fastened 
with  bolts  which  are  removed  when  necessary  to  store. 

Wooden  Frames 

The  story  of  the  wooden  frame  is  about  the  same  as 
the  metal,  only  that  the  wood  frame  can't  rust,  but  can 
wear  out  if  not  seasoned  and  kiln  dried  and  given  all 
the  care  in  manufacture  that  long  life  in  woods  neces- 
sitates. 

Here,  too,  the  corner  construction  must  be  perfect, 
must  be  able  to  bear  the  weight  of  the  screen  and  take 
out  the  jars.  The  frame  must  be  rigid,  light  and  strong. 
The  wire  cloth  must  be  so  fastened  at  every  point  that 
there  is  no  sag  or  bagginess  in  the  broadest  window. 

Now  all  this  is  possible  in  the  best  wood  frame 
screens  and  with  good  workmanship.  Every  one 
thought  for  a  long  time  that  the  metal  screen  could  not 
incorporate  their  good  points.     Don't  be  fooled  by  some 


OSTRACIZING  THE  FLY  279 

one  saying  that  the  wood  screen  cannot  be  made  "fool 
proof,"  for  it  can  and  is.  Here  again  every  maker  has 
his  own  device  for  catching  the  metal  cloth ;  here  again 
the  metal  cloth  must  be  rustless;  here  again  the  metal 
work  and  hardware  must  be  rustless,  the  screen  must 
make  easy  manipulation  possible. 

The  screen  door  question,  too,  is  rallied  round  with 
the  same  provisos  of  manufacture  as  metal  and  wood 
screens.     There  are  the  two  leaf  door  and  the  one  leaf. 

The  new  thing  on  the  door  is  the  fact  that  the  whole 
door  may  be  screened  or  only  one-half  screened,  the 
rest  of  wood  or  metal.  Yet  it  is  far  better  to  have  the 
whole  door  screened,  but  for  the  sake  of  beauty  and 
lack  of  monotony  the  lower  half  can  be  guarded  with 
a  metal  panel  which  will  not  only  look  well  but  pro- 
tect the  wire  cloth.  Sometimes,  too,  in  the  wholly 
screened  door  just  a  metal  guard  rail  is  applied  to  pre- 
vent injury  to  the  wire  cloth  on  the  full  expanse  of  a 
door. 

If  half  the  door  is  of  wood,  there  again  you  lose  the 
free  entry  of  air,  so  it  is  advisable  to  screen  the  door 
completely  and  use  the  guard  metal  work  to  beautify 
and  protect  it. 

Some  of  the  lower  portions  of  doors  (as  is  the  ease 
with  French  windows)  are  beautifully  carved  to  be  in 
keeping  with  a  handsome  wood  interior. 

Doors,  too,  should  be  equipped  with  a  good  cheek  to 
prevent  them  from  banging  and  close  tightly. 

Locks  or  no  locks,  are  questions  to  be  decided  by 
the  buyer,  but  all  hardware,  belts,  catches,  pins,  hinges, 
etc.,  should,  of  course,  follow  the  *' no-rust"  regime, 
and  be  of  the  most  durable  stuff  and  match  up  with  the 
surrounding  hardware. 

Even  though  the  frame  and  its  hanging  are  of  vital 
importance,  yet  what  would  the  screen  be  without  the 


280  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

screen  cloth?  And,  of  course,  there  are  as  many  kinds 
of  cloth  in  this  quarter  of  the  world's  work  as  in  any 
other  and  you  have  to  know  something  of  the  variety  in 
order  to  know  what  you  are  buying,  to  buy  advantage- 
ously. Here  again  you  play  the  old  tune:  Rustless- 
ness. 

The  cloth  must  be  of  a  mesh  not  too  fine  for  free  entry 
of  air,  and  fine  enough  to  prevent  the  smallest  insects 
from  entering.  But  here  you  must  use  discretion.  If 
your  home  is  in  the  Adirondacks  where  black  flies  and 
midgets  precede  the  mosquitoes,  then  it  is  the  better  part 
of  wisdom  to  use  a  finer  mesh;  if  you  are  at  the  sea- 
shore, the  ordinary  coarser  mesh  is  sufficient. 

Wire  Cloth  Varieties 

There  is  also  choice  here.    You  can  have: 

1.  Painted  steel  cloth  which  must  be  repainted 
often  in  accordance  with  its  exposure  and  in  regard 
to  where  it  is  exposed  and  whether  it  is  hung  inside  or 
outside  of  the  window. 

2.  Galvanized  steel  mesh:  This  is  often  blackened 
for  eye  ease. 

3.  Monel  metal  (an  alloy  of  copper  and  nickel) 
guaranteed  rust  proof,  used  mainly  at  seashore  re- 
sorts but  good  for  any  place. 

4.  Bronze  and  patented  bronzes:  Used  as  is  the 
monel  wire  cloth.  Here  a  coat  of  paint  to  dull  the 
bronze  glare  is  of  real  service  to  the  eye. 

5.  Copper:  A  coat  of  dull  paint  here,  too,  will 
take  off  the  glare. 

Manufacturers  have  various  bronze  cloths  and  they 
are  sold  under  various  names.  Its  great  use  is  imper- 
viousness  to  rust  but  it  has  to  be  of  the  best  manufacture 
to  insure  this  paradisiacal  condition. 

The  porch  that  is  screened  with  pernickety  screens 


OSTRACIZING  THE  FLY  281 

never  is  screened  in  time  to  reject  the  insect  world. 
So  here  is  another  case  where  they  must  fit  and  be  made 
to  order. 

What  is  a  sleeping  porch  without  a  screen?  Without 
a  functioning  screen?  One  swallow  may  not  make  a 
summer,  but  one  fly  can  make  torture  out  of  night. 

Some  makers  will  key  your  screens  so  that  each  screen 
has  its  tag  for  replacement  and  there  is  no  loss  of  effort 
and  time  in  resetting  them  next  year  in  their  proper 
places.  This  can  be  done  in  windows,  door  and  porch 
work.  Of  course,  with  the  rolling  screen — they  are 
never  taken  down  and  much  labor  is  saved. 

Screens  are  not  a  luxury ;  they  are  a  health  measure. 
When  we  get  more  civilized  we  will  probably  have  our 
screens  inspected  to  see  that  they  fit,  and  the  boards  of 
health  in  the  various  towns  will  keep  a  close  watch  on 
them,  for  diseases  are  rapidly  being  traced  to  the  minute 
insect  carriers.  Typhus  and  yellow  fever  are  the  last 
results.  Think  what  Central  Europe  would  have  been 
spared  had  it  been  properly  screened ! 

Contrary  to  usual  opinion  screens  can  be  most  attrac- 
tive and  fit  in  with  the  surrounding  wood  trim,  and  be 
a  department  of  house  furnishing  not  to  be  belittled. 
And  don't  fail  to  realize  that  a  lot  of  trouble  can  be 
saved  and  unsightliness  be  avoided,  if  the  screen  is 
thought  of  before  building  your  home — and  if  the  roller 
type  is  installed,  you  have  no  storage  care,  or  removal 
and  recurring  slavery. 


CHAPTER  XXXII 

POLISHING  THE  WATER  SUPPLY 

'  <T FOUND  a  fish  in  my  bath-tub  to-day,"  said  I  to  a 
J.   friend. 

* '  Wasn  't  that  the  best  place  in  the  house  to  find  one  ? '  * 
was  the  reply. 

"Yes,"  I  said,  "but  I  can't  say  I  enjoy  bathing  in  an 
aquarium,  and  my  civic  pride  is  hurt  because  I  have 
been  so  proud  of  my  city's  water  quality  and  all  of  the 
sister  municipalities  which  filter  or  chlorinate  or  both," 

In  this  anecdote  is  the  crux  of  the  filter  situation. 

In  times  gone  by  a  filter  was  sold  to  save  life  from 
polluted  waters,  from  streams,  wells,  surface  sources, 
sewage-burdened  rivers,  etc.  It  was  a  dire  necessity 
and  became  by  its  efficiency  or  lack  of  it  a  godsend  or 
a  menace.  If  it  were  a  good  filter  it  needed  care  and 
attention  in  the  greatest  degree  to  make  it  a  boon;  if 
it  were  a  bad  filter  it  continued  despite  care  to  be  a  curse 
far  more  dangerous  than  the  unfiltered  product  because 
it  became  a  collector  and  a  breeding  place  for  bacteria 
and  doled  out  water  as  pure  to  the  most  modest  of  drink- 
ers. 

But  as  with  every  department  of  living  in  this  realm, 
things  have  moved  on.  In  this  case  gloriously.  For 
since  the  municipalities  have  taken  our  lives  in  their 
hands  the  dangers  from  bad  filters  are  slight  and  the 
need  of  good  ones  necessary  but  not  a  life-and-death 
matter.  In  short,  the  excitement  about  filters  in  the 
home  is  dead  but  their  use  goes  marching  on. 

282 


POLISHING  THE  WATER  SUPPLY        283 

However,  as  this  story  will  be  read  by  inhabitants  of 
unfiltered  municipalities  and  towns,  whatever  danger 
and  comfort  can  accrue  from  non-filtration  or  filtration 
of  water  will  be  evident  after  a  glance  at  this  attempt  to 
bring  it  to  your  mind.  Just  as  this  goes  to  press  we  see  in 
the  paper  that  a  western  town  of  Salem  has  seven  hun- 
dred and  eighty  cases  of  typhoid  in  a  population  of  ten 
thousand.     Here  is  food  for  thought ! 

Hundreds  of  towns  (one  firm  alone  has  installed  about 
163  plants)  in  the  United  States  have  municipal  filtra- 
tion plants.  Some  even  oxygenate  the  water  by  foun- 
taining  it  esthetically  skyward  and  allowing  it  to  entice 
to  itself  oxygen  (from  the  free  air),  by  which  it  gets 
life  and  polish  and  becomes  refreshing. 

Some  towns  chlorinate  the  water  supply.  When 
water  is  chlorinated,  minute  quantities  of  chlorine  are 
added  which  absolutely  destroy  the  germs  in  the  water, 
but  do  not  alter  its  chemical  or  physical  characteristics 
in  the  least.  The  difference  between  a  water  that  has 
been  chlorinated  and  one  that  has  not  been  so  treated  is 
that  in  the  first  case  the  germs  are  destroyed,  but  in 
the  second  case  they  remain  in  the  water  to  cause  pos- 
sible disease. 

This  process  is  rarely  used  in  the  home  as  the  control 
is  too  difficult.  But  in  the  case  of  the  elaborate  resi- 
dence with  large  incumbencies  in  the  way  of  model 
farms,  dairy,  stables,  machine,  shops,  etc.,  it  is  used. 
Also  the  smallest  plants  are  used  in  the  case  of  large 
swimming  pools  in  and  out  of  fine  residences,  where,  of 
course,  the  water  has  been  found  to  be  bacterially  degen- 
erate and  where  the  work  of  purification  is  not  done  by 
a  benign  municipality. 

To  get  to  the  roots  of  the  matter  you  want  water  (you 
don't  care  what  the  high-browed  engineer  does  to  it)  to 
be: 


284  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

1.  Colorless. 

2.  Tasteless. 

3.  Odorless. 

4.  Free  from  suspended  matter. 

5.  With  enough  oxygen  gas  to  make  it  refreshing  and 
give  it  life. 

6.  Without  germs  or  food  for  germs. 
What  you  want  to  keep  out : 

1.  Suspended  impurities:  vegetable,  animal  (such  as 
the  fish),  mineral,  microscopical  algae  (what  you 
see  on  the  stagnant  waters),  infusoria,  etc. 

2.  Dissolved  impurities. 

3.  Disease  germs:  typhoid,  cholera,  etc. 
What  you  must  demand  in  a  filter : 

1.  All  the  above. 

2.  Durability. 

3.  Simplicity  of  management. 

4.  Nearest  approach  possible  to  self  cleaning.  (The 
uncertain  human  element  makes  many  a  good  filter 
fall  down.) 

These  four  things  are  essential  to  the  longevity  of  the 
filter  and  to  you,  if  you  inhabit  filterless  vales. 

Another  thing  suggested  by  the  fourth  article  of 
faith  above  is  the  care  of  the  filter.  If  you  have  a  maid 
you  can't  be  sure  in  what  state  the  filter  is,  unless  you 
keep  close  watch  or  have  constant  inspection  by  a  serv- 
ice bureau.  Slight  danger  from  the  nearly  self  clean- 
ing filter  can  by  care  be  entirely  eliminated.  But  only 
with  care. 

To  clarify  after  its  long  pipe  journey  (probably 
through  rusty  pipes,  etc.)  ;  to  insure  plumbing  (in  case 
of  the  installed  filter  in  the  cellar)  against  clogging, 
incrustations  and  general  wear,  accumulations  of  mate- 
rial bound  to  enter  the  water  on  its  trip  through  the 
pipes  to  the  house — due  to  broken  water  mains,  fires  in 


POLISHING  THE  WATER  SUPPLY       285 

the  city — accidents  of  any  kind;  to  give  the  laundry  a 
clean  appearance,  for  the  best  laundry  work  availeth 
little  if  the  water  is  murky  or  turbid ;  to  polish  water,  or 
render  it  free  from  flavor  and  turbidity. 

When  typhoid  had  its  happy  hunting  ground  in 
plumbing  it  was  thought  quite  in  keeping  to  have  ty- 
phoid cases  in  abundance.  In  Pittsburgh  and  other 
such  afflicted  towns  it  is  now  felt  to  be  a  heinous  sin, 
since  filtration  has  become  a  part  of  the  service  that 
towns  render  to  their  inhabitants.  In  fact,  all  boards 
of  health  to-day  feel  it  to  be  a  felony  and  disgrace  to  find 
a  case  of  such  a  disease  in  the  community. 

So,  to  public-spirited  citizens  in  unfiltered  regions, 
your  task  is  cut  out  for  you.  You  can  get  rid  of  muddy, 
dirty  water  by  municipal  filtration  plants  or  home  fil- 
ters and  care. 

For  those  who  live  in  filtered  towns  the  use  of  filters 
is  manifest,  too. 

There  are  various  kinds  of  filters  in  use,  but  only  two 
kinds  are  of  interest  for  use  in  the  home. 

1.  The  type  affixed  to  spigot  (or  water  cooler). 

2.  The  installed  filter  placed  in  cellar  or  other  part 
of  the  home  to  filter  the  whole  water  supply. 

These  are  divided  into  many  technical  categories,  but 
what  you  are  interested  in  are  the  following  questions: 
Do  you  need  a  filter?  What  shall  you  have  to  know 
to  buy  a  filter  intelligently? 

Rapidly  stated,  it  is  safest  to  buy  a  filter  from  a 
manufacturer  who  says  "my  filter  is  not  absolutely  per- 
fect but  it  is  the  nearest  thing  to  perfection  we  can  get. 
We  know  our  filter  can  render  water  from  90  to  100% 
free  from  bacteria,  as  we  have  had  bacteriological  tests 
made  by  competent  chemists." 

When  you  order  a  filter,  put  down  on  paper  the 
answers  to  the  following  questions,  and  send  them  to  the 


286  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

manufacturers  who  will  then  give  you  the  data  and 
prices.     Choose  the  best  manufacturer  and  then  invest: 

1.  Are  the  fixtures  all  on  direct  water  supply  or  are 
they  supplied  from  an  open  storage  tank  or  combina- 
tion of  the  two? 

2.  "What  are  the  source,  nature  and  peculiarities  of 
the  water  to  be  filtered?  Has  it  odor,  taste,  vege- 
table discoloration,  clay  or  iron  stain? 

3.  What  sort  of  water  supply  system  do  you  use  and 
what  of  the  water  pressure?  What  is  the  size  of 
the   supply   pipe?     (Ask   your   plumber.) 

4.  How  many  gallons  of  water  are  required  to  be 
filtered  per  minute,  per  hour  or  per  8,  10,  12,  or  24 
hours?     (Ask  your  plumber.) 

5.  How  many  bathrooms  and  other  water  fixtures  are 
in  your  home? 

6.  Is  there  a  municipal  plant  in  your  town?  What 
kind? 

Since  1885  thousands  of  filters  have  been  patented. 
Years  ago  the  smallest  and  most  unreliable  maker  would 
put  a  filter  on  the  market  and  promise  immunity  from 
death  and  let  it  go  at  that,  because  folks  are  anxious 
to  be  saved.  To-day  not  many  more  than  six  filters  are 
really  sold  with  a  guarantee  by  reliable  firms  backing 
them.  Why?  Because  most  of  these  filters  were  cheap 
and  flimsy,  did  nothing  but  strain  water  and  strain  their 
point  as  well.  These  small  manufacturers  would  spring 
into  being  one  day  and  sink  into  oblivion  the  next.  The 
filters,  if  they  did  filter  (not  strain,  only),  would  be- 
come breeding  nests  for  bacteria.  Physicians  feared 
and  forbade  them. 

The  filters  on  the  market  to-day  are  in  varying  de- 
grees reliable,  depending  greatly  on  their  functions,  on 
the  amount  of  care  and  wear,  and  how  they  are  used. 
For  example,  coarse  gravel  as  a  medium  through  which 


POLISHING  THE  WATER  SUPPLY        287 

to  purify  water  might  be  good  to  take  out  bits  of 
sediment — big  bits — but  it  would  not  act  on  the  bac- 
teria. 

In  general,  the  materials  used  in  filters  through 
which  the  water  must  pass  to  be  purified  are:  sand, 
quartz,  charcoal,  cloth,  paper,  etc.  Another  class  of 
filters  passes  the  water  through  a  bougis  or  candle  made 
of  unglazed  porcelain  (Kaolin),  natural  stone,  artificial 
stone,  asbestos,  diatomaceous  earth,  etc.  The  pores 
through  which  the  water  flows  catch  the  bacteria  and 
sediment. 

With  this  list  before  you  you  must  ask  yourself  if 
you  need  only  a  strainer.  Is  the  water  free  from 
bacilli?  Have  you  a  municipal  chlorinating  plant  or 
filter  plant?  If  so,  any  good  filter  will  do  to  strain 
out  suspended  matter;  but  if  you  are  \ery  anxious  to 
have  perfect  water  you  cannot  go  wrong  by  having  a  fil- 
ter which  will  catch  bacteria  which  may  have  accidental 
entry,  in  any  community  whatever. 

If  you  know  you  have  dirty  water  and  no  municipal 
plant  you  cannot  be  too  careful  as  to  what  you  use 
in  rendering  safe  the  water  from  well,  stream  or  any 
other  source. 

The  most  reliable  faucet  filter  is  the  diatomaceous 
earthen  candle  type  which  is  simply  cleaned  by  brushing 
off  its  soft  surface  and  boiling  occasionally  to  kill  fur- 
tive bacteria.  The  great  drawback  to  this  type  of 
filter  is  that  it  is  not  a  reformer  and  cannot  force  the 
user  to  keep  it  clean.  Therefore  it  is  up  to  the  user, 
and  as  its  agent  told  the  writer,  "Filter  use  in  a  city 
like  New  York  is  a  matter  of  temperament.  Som,e 
people  enjoy  caring  for  a  filter  in  order  to  make  a 
splendid  water  supply  fool-proof,  others  dislike  the  care 
and  do  not  mind  the  slight  risk  in  any  city  water  supply 
or  the  discoloration  that  is  often  inherent. ' ' 


288  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Filters,  whether  installed  or  attached  to  faucets,  are 
built  to  fit  the  occasion. 

It  is  interesting  to  realize  that  nearly  every  fine  home 
in  New  York,  especially  on  Fifth  Avenue,  has  a  filter, 
despite  the  city's  excellent  water  supply.  Not  so  much 
to  save  life,  as  it  so  often  does  owing  to  frequent  inva- 
sions of  germs  into  even  excellent  water,  but  for  the  feel- 
ing of  clean  unflavored,  unfishy,  unwoody  water  and  for 
the  insurance  of  long  life  of  the  plumbing  system — and 
to  save  deterioration  in  plumbing  is  a  thing  devoutly  to 
be  wished. 

Sand  or  quartz  is  the  usual  medium  for  filtration 
in  the  home.  Bone  char  is  often  added  to  these  to  de- 
stroy taste,  for  there  is  nothing  as  disagreeable  as  water 
with  a  decided  taste. 

There  are  a  few  filters  to-day  which  when  installed 
in  the  cellar  consist  of  one  or  two  vertical  tanks  attached 
to  the  water  supply.  In  one  tank  is  quartz  through 
which  the  water  passes  and  in  the  other  is  bone  char 
to  carry  away  flavor. 

In  one  case  the  filter  has  a  simple  lever  which  when 
set  at  a  certain  spot  on  the  dial  washes  out  the  filter 
beds  and  frees  them  from  contamination. 

As  the  impurities  in  the  water  are  removed  by  a 
filter  they  accumulate  in  a  mass  or  cake  on  top  of  the 
filter  bed.  If  this  cake  or  matted  formation  is  not 
broken  up  and  thoroughly  disintegrated,  it  will  roll 
up  during  the  washing  process  and  not  only  clog  but 
contaminate  a  filter  bed,  utterly  destroying  its  effi- 
ciency as  a  purifying  medium,  steadily  diminishing  the 
water  supply.  Hence  a  cutting  plate  is  placed  im- 
mediately above  the  bed  of  quartz.  As  soon  as  the 
operating  lever  is  moved  to  the  point  ** Washing,"  the 
washing  current  is  introduced  at  the  bottom  of  the 
filter,  the  filter  bed  is  lifted  bodily  upward  and  forced 


POLISHING  THE  WATER  SUPPLY        289 

through  the  cutter,  which  literally  tears  the  matted 
film  of  impurities  into  fragments.  At  the  same  time 
it  thoroughly  breaks  up  the  bed,  separates  and  perfectly 
scours  each  grain  of  filtering  material,  by  the  force  of 
the  reverse  current  of  water  in  a  space  twice  the  size 
it  occupies  during  the  filtering  process. 

The  impurities  having  been  separated  from  the  bed 
and  broken  up  into  minute  particles  are  carried  out 
of  the  filter  through  the  waste  pipe  by  the  reverse  cur- 
rent of  water.  During  this  process  a  screen  at  the  top 
of  the  filter  prevents  the  filtering  material  quartz  from 
escaping  out  of  the  filter. 

In  this  way  by  the  least  effort — the  turn  of  a  handle 
— once  a  week — the  filter  becomes  a  boon  and  not  a 
menace.  After  the  cleaning  process  is  over,  a  matter 
of  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  the  lever  is  turned  to 
another  point  "designated  in  the  bond"  and  the  filter 
goes  back  to  normal.  The  agitated  sand  and  char  are 
calmed  down  and  ready  to  chasten  the  next  lot  of  water. 

In  some  localities  where  the  water  (though  it  may  be 
chlorinated  and  bacteria-free)  is  dark  and  turbid  and 
full  of  the  finest  sediment,  the  usual  sand  or  quartz 
(even  with  the  tiniest  of  spaces  between  the  grains) 
cannot  prevent  this  hyper-fine  sediment  passing 
through  into  the  filter.  In  order  to  catch  this  impure 
water  with  its  fine  sediment  alum  is  often  introduced 
into  the  filter  to  coagulate  the  fine  sediment  (as  you 
have  seen  the  white  of  an  egg  coagulate  coffee  grounds) 
and  permits  it  in  the  "flock"  to  be  caught  as  it  passes 
through  the  interstices  of  the  filter  bed. 

Here  you  can  easily  see  why  you  must  be  careful  to 
give  the  filter  manufacturer  a  graphic  description  of 
your  water  supply.  Then,  too,  the  installed  filter,  just 
described  may  be  rendered  useless  if  by  any  means  the 
pipes  in  the  home  become  contaminated. 


290  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

There  are  some  filters  on  the  market  (this  caution  is 
for   the   unfiltered   community)    which  only  strain. 

Those  fitted  with  paper,  cloth,  cotton,  etc.,  are  fine 
in  their  places,  but  you  must  know  their  places. 

One  filter,  for  example,  is  said  to  be  very  speedy. 
However,  in  this  case  (this  filter  is  attached  to  the 
faucet)  you  are  admonished  to  let  the  water  run  for 
about  half  a  minute,  because,  as  the  water  ran  through 
before,  the  collection  of  germs  must  be  given  a  chance 
to  flow  out.  In  this  filter  the  water  flows  in  at  one 
end  through  bone  char  and  quartz  and  the  next  time  it 
is  used  the  current  is  reversed  and  flows  back  through 
the  filter  bed,  self-washing  but  carrying  with  it  the 
bacteria  collected  on  its  last  passage.  Therefore,  if  you 
forget  to  let  the  water  run  for  a  time,  you  may  get  your 
stomach  full  of  more  potent  germs  than  if  you  used  the 
ordinary  water  with  its  occasional  bacteria. 

Good  filters  in  the  last  analysis  spell  "safety  first" 
wherever  they  may  be.  For  despite  municipal  inter- 
vention accidents  will  happen,  and  even  though  the 
trouble  be  corrected  in  a  short  time,  fifteen  minutes 
can  prove  a  real  menace. 

There  is  one  filter  just  coming  to  our  markets,  made 
in  Germany,  which  has  been  tried  and  tested  and  found 
good.  It  is  affixed  to  the  water  supply  (direct,  not  in 
cellar)  and  accomplishes  filtration  by  the  process  of 
passage  of  water  through  a  paper-like  fabric  of  disks  14" 
thick.  These  disks  keep  water  absolutely  sterile  in  the 
laboratory  for  17  days  but  the  makers,  rightly,  will  only 
guarantee  them  for  48  hours  in  order  to  obviate  danger 
to  their  promises,  through  the  accidents  which  may 
happen.  The  test  under  German  scrutiny  proved  that 
typhoid  germs  were  rendered  nil  for  17  days  and  try  as 
they  might  could  not  force  their  way  through  the  disks. 

This  is  a  good  certificate  of  good  conduct.     Sewage 


POLISHING  THE  WATER  SUPPLY        291 

for  example  during  the  war  was  rendered  harmless  as 
drinking  material  by  the  means  of  this  filter  disk,  so 
it  is  claimed. 

Filtering,  unlike  sterilizing,  does  not  take  the  life 
out  of  water  or  make  it  readily  absorb  odors  and  flavors. 

Remember,  that  some  filters  remove  bacteria  and  the 
finest  sediment  only  (the  candle  type).  Others  re- 
move sediment  of  all  sizes  and  bacteria,  too;  while  still 
others  kill  flavor  to  boot.  Discuss  the  point  with  your 
plumber,  architect,  doctor  and  manufacturer  and  water 
department.  As  with  clothes  so  ^vith  filters:  buy  what 
suits  the  need  and  buy  carefully  after  securing  all  the 
advice  available. 

One  might  say  pompously  that  the  purchasing  of  a 
filter  may  be  the  purchase  of  life  itself,  or — facetiously 
— that  the  good  filter  takes  the  "imp"  out  of  impure 
water. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 

OUTSTRIPPING  THE  GALE 

WEATHER  strips  are  not  the  caviar  of  the  build- 
ing menu — far  from  it.  They  are  a  whole  lot 
more  like  the  roast  beef  with  pan  gravy  and  baked 
potatoes. 

Those  of  you  who  bought  weather  stripping  years  ago 
and  either  put  it  on  yourself  or  had  the  town  carpenter 
tack  it  on,  do  not  believe  it  is  any  good,  and  at  best 
only  a  "fancy  fixing."  But  those  days  are  passed 
and  the  weather  strip  has  properly  outstripped  many 
other  things  in  development  and  has  come  to  be  no 
hors  d'oeuvre  but  the  piece  de  resistance  of  the 
bill-of-fare.  So  important  has  the  effect  of  the  strip 
become  that  heating  and  ventilating  engineers  have 
been  and  are  to-day  carrying  on  experiments,  not  to 
prove  their  value  (no,  for  this  has  been  proven),  but  to 
have  exact  data  to  show  how  much  fuel  is  saved  and 
just  how  evenly  the  temperature  can  be  maintained 
throughout  a  home  under  varying  conditions  of  gale  and 
stability  outdoors  and  in.  (See  Chapter  XXXV,  Heat- 
ing). 

Things  They  Obviate 

Do  you  care  to  heat  the  great  outdoors?  This  is  the 
first  important  question.  If  you  do,  how  dare  you  with 
the  shortage  of  coal  to-day?  Have  you  sufficient  coal 
to  waste  it?    Is  your  home  hard  to  heat?    Why?    Do 

292 


OUTSTRIPPING  THE  GALE  293 

you  Uke  the  gales  and  little  hurricanes  racing  over 
your  floors,  chasing  the  little  snow  flakes!  Do  you 
like  to  cultivate   colds   and  other   draught   diseases? 

These  are  pertinent  questions  even  if  they  seem  im- 
pertinent. They  suggest  the  graphic  pictures  that  we 
do  not  want  inhabiting  our  homes. 

These  conditions  can  be  obviated. 

If  you  inquire  from  your  friends  who  know  intel- 
ligently the  value  of  the  furnishings  they  use,  you  will 
get  concrete  figures  before  investing.  One  conspicuous 
friend,  Uncle  Sam,  says  that  in  1918  he  saved  two 
million  dollars'  worth  of  coal  by  the  use  of  weather 
strips.  And  this  led  the  director  of  conservation  to 
make  the  extravagant  statement  that  weather  strips  are 
100%  fuel  conservation. 

What  They  Are 

In  the  past  when  the  telephone  had  just  become  a 
household  staple  and  before  horse  cars  evaporated  you 
used  to  paste  the  weather  strips  on  the  outside  of  your 
windows.  Then  they  were  made  of  cloth,  or  rubber  or 
heavy  paper,  and  they  made  life  slightly  fair  and 
warmer ;  but  most  of  the  heat  accrued  by  them  was  that 
which  was  fired  in  trying  to  raise  the  windows  which 
stuck  due  to  the  adherence  of  the  weather  strip. 

To-day  the  weather  strip  is  gentler  and  not  only  keeps 
the  cold  air  at  bay,  but  keeps  out  the  dust  and  noise 
and  permits  the  window  to  go  up  and  down  more  easily 
because  it  runs  on  a  metal  track;  really  the  weather 
strip  allows  it  to  glide  like  magic.  To  move  a  window 
with  the  weather  stripping  affixed  is  a  pleasure  which 
the  weakest  reed  can  enjoy. 

The  dictionary  says  "the  weather  strip  is  a  narrow 
strip,  as  wood  edged  with  rubber  prepared  to  be  placed 


294  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

over  crevices,  as  at  doors  and  windows  to  exclude 
wind,  rain,  etc." 

This  is  the  old  weather  strip.  To-day  they  are  in 
general  metallic  tubular  strips  fitting  into  complemen- 
tary depressions  in  metal  linings  or  window  sashes  that 
are  designed  and  shaped  to  seal  the  cracks  that  natur- 
ally occur  between  and  around  doors  and  windows  and 
their  frames,  sealing  up  these  openings  so  that  the 
elements  are  turned  back  before  they  get  even  their 
noses  into  the  house.  They  are  made  of  non-corroding, 
non-rustable  metals  such  as  zinc,  bronze  and  copper,  and 
they  keep  their  elasticity  plus  non-leakage  qualities  as 
long  as,  and  sometimes  longer  than,  the  building  itself. 

Every  type  of  door  and  every  type  of  window  present 
different  problems,  and  every  window  or  door  of  each 
type  has  again  different  problems,  so  to  each  there  must 
be  different  applications.  The  following  will  explain 
more  particularly  than  the  foregoing. 

The  Sliding  WlNDOVir 

The  sliding  window  is  the  most  general  type  to  be 
treated. 

Here  the  top  and  bottom,  sides  and  meeting  rail  must 
be  considered.  How  to  stop  leakage  and  seal  against 
unwelcome  callers  are  the  problems. 

At  the  top  of  the  window,  as  in  the  illustration,  two 
strips  are  used;  the  tubular  protuberance  in  the  head 
of  the  frame  nestles  cosily  in  the  depressed  concavity 
of  the  window  sash.  Some  brands  line  the  depression 
with  metal — others  do  not. 

When  the  window  is  closed,  there  is  a  complementary 
interlocking  device  at  the  rail  where  the  upper  and 
lower  sash  meet,  often  in  the  upper  sash  of  S  shaped 
l)ronze  and  in  the  lower  sash  a  hook-shaped  copper  strip. 

The  side  of  the  frame  upon  which  the  window  is 


OUTSTRIPPING  THE  GALE 


295 


raised  and  lowered  is  a  real  problem.  The  weather 
stripping  makes  the  window  weather-proof,  yet  it  makes 
it  open  and  shut  easier  than  it  could  before  the  appli- 
cation of  the  strip. 


Courtesy  of  Monarch  Metal  Weatherstrip  Co. 

DOUBLE     HUNG    OR    ORDINARY    SLIDING    WINDOW    TREATMENI 

WITH     WEATHERSTRIPS    OBVIATES     DRAUGHTS,    DUST 

AND  NOISE SAVES  COAL,' 


In  some  brands  the  frame  lining  and  sash  lining  are 
of  metal.  In  some  only  the  frame  is  metal  lined.  In 
some  the  frame  is  corrugated  and  the  window  sash  slides 


296  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

up  and  down  easily  as  the  protuberance  slides  into  the 
depression  in  the  unlined  sash  furrow.  In  another 
brand  two  metal  tubular  strips  are  used,  the  metal  pro- 
tuberance fitted  into  a  metal  lined  depression.  Here 
the  window  slides  easily  and  no  amount  of  warping  can 
disturb  the  nice  adjustment.  In  such  weather  strips 
are  created  conditions  which  absolutely  prevent  the  side 
action  of  windows,  so  hard  to  cure  with  carpentry  or 
cheap  types  of  weather  strips. 

The  lower  sash  is  managed  as  is  the  upper,  only  the 
strips  are  reversed. 

Other  Cases 

The  casement  window  has  its  peculiarities  of  treat- 
ment, as  have  doors  and  v^ndows  which  open  in  the 
center. 

In  the  casement  which  opens  in,  for  example,  a  brass 
triangle  is  provided  with  "weep  holes"  to  drain  out 
any  water  which  may  accumulate  on  the  sill  and  follow 
through  into  the  room.  The  meeting  rail  is  sealed  in 
a  way  approximately  as  in  the  sliding  window. 

The  sill  strip  is  peculiarly  shaped  to  spring  into  its 
sealing  power;  sometimes  it  is  called  a  Z-shaped  plate, 
each  manufacturer  having  his  own  name  and  pet  plan. 

Doors 

The  door  sills  are  made  with  metal,  and  metal  strips 
forming  a  sealed  joint  against  warping,  settling  air, 
etc.  There  is  a  very  nice  device  used  to  prevent  the  cold 
air  let  into  the  bedroom  at  night  from  escaping  into 
the  halls  and  cooling  them  off.  On  the  lower  edge  of 
the  door  is  fitted  a  spring  which  when  the  door  is  closed 
by  contact  with  the  hinged  side  of  the  frame  releases 
a  felted  pad  which  fits  tightly  against  the  sill  of  the 


OUTSTRIPPING  THE  GALE  297 

door.  This  makes  one's  winter  immersions  a  pleasure, 
for  the  bathroom,  if  you  have  one  connecting  with  your 
room,  as  well  as  the  hall  will  be  warm  for  your  morning 
use. 

Application 

Weather  strips  can  be  applied  after  as  well  as  when 
the  house  is  built. 

"My  house  is  so  well  built,"  said  a  friend  of  mine, 
"that  it  does  not  need  weather  stripping."  If  that 
could  have  been  so,  it  was  a  unique  house.  There  is 
hardly  a  house  where  the  wood  around  the  doors  and  the 
windows  does  not  warp  or  shrink  or  do  something 
equally  obnoxious.  "Whether  seasoned  by  long  processes 
of  actual  weathering  or  rapidly  kiln  dried,  wood  in 
captivity  becomes  restless,  and  seems  to  strain  and 
struggle  in  its  fury.  Nothing  can  be  said  against  the 
builder — it  is  the  nature  of  wood.  The  builder  is  al- 
ways  glad  to  install  the  strips  because  then  the  owner 
does  not  get  a  chance  to  feel  antagonistic  on  account 
of  recalcitrant  windows,  difficult  heating,  etc.,  and  is 
therefore  relieved  from  grumbling. 

The  weather  strip  must  be  put  on  by  the  experts  from 
the  manufacturers  of  the  brand  of  weather  strips  that 
you  buy.  Do  not  call  in  ydur  favorite  carpenter  or 
plumber,  for  he  cannot  do  it  right.  The  putting  on  of 
weather  strips  is  a  science  in  itself.  They  must  be  put  on 
so  as  to  insure  a  uniform  efficiency  during  the  inevitable 
warpings,  shrinkings  and  swellings  of  the  window.  The 
windows  have  to  be  conditioned  carefully  because  the 
stripping  must  be  so  fixed  that  it  cannot  be  removed,  if 
necessary  to  do  anything  to  the  window  itself  after- 
wards, such  as  fitting  new  pulley  cords,  etc.  Every 
window  and  door  offers  different  problems,  so  an  expert 
must  apply  the  strips  to  your  window  and  door.    This 


298  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

is  not  a  commodity  that  a  baby  can  affix — it's  a  man 
sized  job. 

Purchasing 

Eemember  the  weather  stripping  that  you  buy 
should  last  as  long  as  the  life  of  your  house.  For  this 
reason  the  all  metal  kind  is  the  best  to  buy.  The  metal 
and  cloth  are  effijcient  as  long  as  they  last,  and  so  are 
other  combinations;  but  they  do  not  last  long  enough. 
You  must  get  a  longevity  insurance.  They  must  be 
made  of  non-rusting,  non-corroding  materials  such  as 
bronze,  copper,  zinc  or  brass  manufactured  to  a  high 
degree  of  dependability,  and  subjected  to  the  most 
rigid  inspection  and  tests  for  accuracy,  thereby'  award- 
ing the  buyer  a  rich  guarantee. 

Find  out  from  users  of  the  brand  you  think  you  will 
buy,  before  you  buy,  and  see  what  they  say  and  what 
their  experience  has  been. 

Weather  strips  can  be  put  on  any  opening,  and  should 
the  purveyor  you  speak  to  say  this  or  that  opening  can- 
not be  properly  stripped,  that  is  your  cue  for  seeking 
elsewhere.  Buy  only  from  established  makers,  who  will 
be  in  business  for  years — because  in  tM^enty  or  thirty 
years  you  might  want  a  window  adjusted. 

Early  in  this  article  mention  was  made  of  the  saving 
in  fuel  by  Uncle  Sam.  Professor  Allen,  of  the  Re- 
search Laboratory  of  The  American  Society  of  Heating 
and  Ventilating  Engineers,  in  a  letter  to  the  writer  said : 

"Roughly  with  ordinary  good  house  conditions  we 
can  say  that  the  air  in  a  room  changes  every  hour  due 
to  leakage  around  windows.  With  good  weather  strips 
you  reduce  the  leakage  very  considerably.  Of  course, 
this  depends  upon  the  type  of  construction  in  the  house. 
Some  years  ago  I  installed  a  complete  system  of  weather 


OUTSTRIPPING  THE  GALE  299 

stripping  in  an  entire  institution  and  we  roughly  esti- 
mated that  the  saving  of  fuel  was  about  15%."  Since 
then  other  tests  have  been  made  to  bring  the  percentage 
of  saving  of  fuel  from  15%  to  40"/^  • 

When  you  think  that  a  window  shade  keeps  in  19.2% 
of  warm  air,  think  what  the  fitted  metal  and  interlock- 
ing strips  can  do. 

The  weather  strip  not  only  keeps  the  cold  air  out  but 
actually  by  not  admitting  the  cold  air  allows  the  heated 
air  inside  to  maintain  the  moisture  necessary  for  com- 
fort. With  the  admission  of  cold  air  the  moisture  is 
precipitated  from  the  air  and  we  have  not  got  the  proper 
humidity  necessary  to  be  happy.  The  moisture  in  the 
home  comes  from  water  evaporation  in  kitchen  lavator- 
ies, air  itself  which  comes  in,  etc. 

The  warm  air  can  carry  the  humidity,  but  the  cold 
air  does  not  do  it  as  well,  and  when  it  strikes  the  warm 
air  the  latter  is  forced  to  condense. 

Comfort  is  the  main  thing  in  the  home,  even  more 
sometimes  than  saving  fuel  bills. 

"Comfort,"  says  Professor  Allen  in  an  address,  "is 
the  prime  consideration,  more  than  maintaining  a  defi- 
nite temperature.  Getting  the  temperature  right 
brings  comfort.  We  should  aim  at  40%  to  50%  of  mois- 
ture in  the  winter  with  68  to  70  degrees." 

The  fact  is  that  the  heating  engineer  to-day  allows 
for  about  Vs  more  heating  area  when  the  house  is  not 
weather  stripped.  And  then,  sad  to  relate,  at  this  con- 
sequent extra  expense  the  house  will  be  probably  un- 
evenly heated,  because  some  rooms  will  have  big  window 
and  door  leaks  and  other  rooms  little  leaks,  so  there  will 
be  overheating  in  some  rooms  and  underheating  in 
others. 

Another  engineer  said,  "I  have  caught  snow  in  my 


300  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

hand  at  a  distance  of  two  feet  from  a  tightly  locked 
window  in  a  house  supposed  to  have  better  than  ordi- 
nary construction. 

"What  .  .  .  can  better  this  condition?  Weather 
strips,  metal  weather  strips.  ..." 

He  also  said  in  the  same  address  on  heating  the  home 
that  the  builder  did  all  he  could  do,  with  the  materials 
he  had.     So  there  is  the  dilemma ! 

The  storm  window  can  often  be  obviated  by  weather 
strips.  The  storm  window  is  much  more  of  a  nuisance 
than  the  appliqued  weather  strips.  Who  wants  to  add 
another  set  of  windows  to  be  cleaned  ?  And  who  enjoys 
the  manipulation  of  them  in  rush  moments  of  storm  and 
wind? 

For  Wind,  Dust  and  Noise 

The  weather  strip  is  the  solution  of  the  gale  exposed 
home,  of  the  noise,  dust  and  weather  exposed  home,  of 
any  home  with  windows  at  all.  It  is  not  subject  to 
depreciation  but  increases  in  value,  and  as  the  house 
depreciates  the  weather  stripping  takes  on  the  burdens 
of  the  ever  increasing  depreciation  and  prevents  any 
more  rapid  fuel  consumption,  keeps  down  the  dust  in- 
filtrations and  lessens  the  cleaning  bills.  If,  by 
chance,  the  woodwork  is  still  obstreperous  the  defect 
can  always  be  corrected,  if  a  good  brand  of  stripping 
has  been  used. 

In  other  words,  weather  strips  are  a  good  investment. 
Good  weather  strips,  like  any  good  material,  are  a  good 
investment. 

Much  of  our  trouble  with  the  heat  in  our  homes  comes 
from  the  impossibility  of  even  heating.  Do  what  he 
will,  the  furnace  man  cannot  seem  to  heat  the  house. 
Often  you  say:    "Why  do  you  burn  so  much  coal  and 


OUTSTRIPPING  THE  GALE  301 

give  us  so  little  heat?"    There  may  be  other  causes, 
but  the  lack  of  weather  stripping  is  very  prone  to  be  one. 

Quiet  and  Cleanliness 

The  charm  of  the  house  is  quiet.  Don't  you  un- 
consciously gage  the  dignity  of  the  homes  that  you  visit 
by  the  quiet  of  them  ? 

The  weather  strip  keeps  much  of  the  street  noises  out. 
It  dulls  and  reduces  the  raucousness  of  the  clang  and 
clatter. 

Every  housewife  knows  that  the  hangings  next  to 
the  windows  get  very  dirty.  She  also  knows  that  the 
room  gets  full  of  dust  whether  the  windows  are  closed 
or  not.  A  certain  amount  of  dust  will  get  into  the  room 
no  matter  what  precautions  are  taken,  but  there  will  be 
less  of  it  when  weather  stripping  is  applied  to  the 
windows.  This  is  a  consideration  worthy  of  notice,  as 
the  servant  problem  to-day  makes  all  effort  in  the  home 
more  arduous  and  the  less  cleaning  there  is  to  be  done 
the  better  for  all  concerned. 

Weather  strips  are  not  a  luxury.  They  save  money 
and  give  comfort  by  maintaining  an  equal  temperature 
and  humidity,  and  by  permitting  more  quiet,  less  drafts 
and  a  minimum  of  dust.  Finally,  the  weather  strip 
is  a  good  investment  and,  although  not  intrinsically  a 
thing  of  beauty,  is  a  thing  of  duty  and  lasts  forever. 

But  remember  weather  strips  are  easy  to  make — 
cheap  ones.  There  are  many  mushroomic  dealers — born 
to-day  and  dead  to-morrow.  Beware  of  them  and  buy 
the  best. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV 

BEAUTY  AND  THE  BATH 

PROBABLY  no  development  of  the  home  has  mir- 
rored human  accomplishment  to  such  an  extent  as 
has  the  bathroom.  We  have  prided  ourselves  on  our  sani- 
tary bathrooms;  on  the  devices  for  comfort  and  idyllic 
perfection  in  this,  the  smallest,  yet  the  most  important 
room  in  the  home.  We  have  developed  it  to  such  a  point 
that  in  new  homes  everyone  has  a  bathroom  to  him- 
self with  comfortable  additions  to  fit  the  individual 
whim. 

For  a  few  decades  this  room  has  been  a  replica  of 
hospital  efficiency  and  that  has  sufficed.  But  to-day, 
the  artist  in  home-making  is  bringing  the  bath  room 
back  to  the  luxury  and  ease  seen  in  the  boudoirs  of  an- 
cient days,  the  days  from  which  we  take  our  beautiful 
drawing  rooms,  chambers  and  general  schemes  of  decora- 
tion. 

This  reversion  toward  bathroom  luxury  has  come 
about  because  the  ordinary  bathroom  has  been  too  cold. 
It  lacked  warmth,  well-being  and  coziness.  Then,  too, 
bathrooms  are  always  the  smallest  rooms  in  the  home, 
and  for  that  reason  can  be  more  easily  dressed  in  glori- 
ous sheen  and  kept  in  harmony  with  the  color  scheme 
and  general  plan  of  the  home. 

A  French  Bath 

A  few  years  ago  no  one  would  have  thought  of  hav- 
ing wood  panels  in  the  bathroom — we  proudly  felt  that 

302 


BEAUTY  AND  THE  BATH  303 

we  had  gone  beyond  that  stage.  Yet  to-day  in  the 
elaborate  combined  dressing-bathrooms  we  find  white 
wood  panels  giving  a  feeling  of  warmth,  together  with 
almost  as  rich  an  effect  as  when  marble  itself  is  used. 

The  French  bathroom  in  one  great  house  is  as  care- 
fully designed  as  any  room  in  the  house,  even  more  so, 
for  there  both  utility  and  beauty  are  achieved  together. 
Take,  for  example,  the  closet  seat  which  looks  like  a 
comfortable  chair  with  cane  back  and  seat.  The  seat 
of  course,  is  hinged  to  raise  up  and  down.  Here  an 
ugly  necessity  is  beautifully  camouflaged  to  fit  in  with 
the  entire  scheme  of  the  dressing  room,  and  it  gives  no 
jar  to  the  inhabitant  who  must,  forsooth,  spend  many 
hours  of  careful  toilet  making  in  this  superb  room.  The 
fixtures  here  are  gold  of  lovely  design,  the  woodwork  in 
keeping.  The  floor  is  of  large  tile  and  spread  with  rugs 
to  add  warmth  and  the  room  is  lit,  not  only  by  the 
regular  bathroom  fixtures,  but  also  by  a  crystal  center 
chandelier. 

Some  bathrooms  even  have  a  corner  for  the  bathtub 
which  transforms  it  into  a  chaise  longue. 

In  modern  bathrooms  in  luxurious  homes  we  have  a 
reincarnation  of  the  art  of  Benvenuto  Cellini  in  the 
gold  wrought  metal  work.  This  is  made  to  harmonize 
with  the  general  style  of  the  room  in  which  it  is  placed, 
and,  though  expensive,  it  is  easy  to  take  care  of.  Be- 
sides, when  you  are  really  making  a  bathroom,  what  does 
it  matter  if  it  goes  into  the  thousands  when  other  rooms 
go  into  tens  of  thousands? 

Usually  only  one  or  two  bathrooms — the  master's  and 
the  mistress's — reach  this  height  of  gorgeousness.  The 
others,  however,  conform  pretty  well  to  the  highly  con- 
venient and  thoroughly  delightful  rooms  in  the  rest  of 
the  house. 


304  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

The  EQmPMENT 

An  interesting  development,  too,  is  the  shape  of  the 
bathroom — the  departure  from  the  rectangular.  Some- 
times it  is  octagonal,  with  a  radiating  tiled  floor  and  the 
various  functioning  fixtures  in  the  far  sectors.  One 
room  which  we  have  investigated  has  in  one  corner  a 
sunken  marble  tub  and  in  the  center  the  radiator.  The 
gold  work  in  this  room  is  beautiful,  but  practical,  of  a 
design  that  takes  plumbing  into  the  arts. 

The  thoroughly  equipped  woman's  bathroom  must 
have  the  usual  tub,  showers,  lavatory,  watercloset  seat, 
a  closet  or  two  in  the  walls,  a  table,  towel  rack,  brackets 
for  soap  and  sponge,  hooks  for  hanging  things,  scales, 
rugs,  a  chair  or  stool,  toilet  paper  receptacle,  mirrors 
and  tiling  for  floors  and  wall. 

In  the  men's  bathrooms  is  added  the  bidet  sometimes 
a  shaving  chair  and  other  shaving  necessities  such  as  a 
special  lamp  for  fine  work.  To  both  these  rooms  can  be 
added  various  things,  more  or  less  necessary  according 
to  different  people's  taste,  such  as  the  sitz  bath,  which 
is  luxurious  for  bathing  the  feet  after  a  hard  walk  or 
a  game  of  golf. 

This  article  in  no  way  intends  to  be  a  plumbing  arti- 
cle. All  it  means  to  do  is  tell  you  what  there  is  new  in 
the  development  of  the  bathroom  and  leave  the  choice 
to  you.  See  Chapter  XV  on  plumbing  where  we  have 
taken  up  the  necessities  of  plumbing  fixtures.  All  you 
need  to  remember  here  is  to  buy  your  fixtures  at  the  best 
possible  shop  and  then  get  the  best  plumber  obtainable 
to  install  them.  The  installation  of  all  good  plumbing 
work  should  be  in  the  beginning,  in  the  plans  of  the 
architect,  for  it  is  difficult  and  quite  complicated  to  put 
in  plumbing  installation  after  the  house  is  well  ad- 
vanced.     There  is  nothing  quite  so  important  to  the 


BEAUTY  AND  THE  BATH  305 

successful  builder  as  the  early  consideration  of  pipe  re- 
quirements. The  plumber  is  equipped  with  the  sanitary 
code,  which,  of  course,  the  architect  knows  too,  and  any 
householder  can  get  one  to  read  and  digest.  However, 
with  a  licensed  plumber,  a  good  architect  and  a  faithful 
builder,  this  is  unnecessary. 

The  Bathtub 

The  most  interesting  fixture  in  the  bathroom,  to 
Americans  and  Britons,  at  least,  is  the  bathtub.  Aside 
from  the  kitchen  stove,  this  is  the  nucleus  about  which 
our  content  is  generated. 

Civilization  has  been  kind  enough  to  leave  us  two 
generally  used  types  of  bathtubs — the  solid  porcelain 
and  the  enamel  over  iron  (enamel  lined  or  porcelain 
over  iron)  tub.  The  tin  tub  has  gone  out,  the  glass  tub 
is  too  perilous,  and  the  porcelain  or  porcelain  lined 
proves  about  the  most  satisfactory  when  we  can't  have 
marble  or  old  Italian  basins  for  our  bathing. 

Recent  advances  in  methods  of  manufacture  and  de- 
sign have  made  the  choice  between  solid  porcelain  or 
enamel  iron  baths  a  matter  of  personal  liking  as  in- 
fluenced by  their  fitness  for  positions  assigned  to  them 
in  a  room.  On  account  of  the  losses  sustained  for  the 
manufacture  of  clay  products,  selected  grades  of  porce- 
lain baths  are  of  necessity  higher  in  cost  than  the  porce- 
lain lined  or  enameled  iron.  The  porcelain  bath  is  fine  in 
appearance,  but  it  is  not  reasonable  to  expect  the  same 
perfection  in  shape  and  uniformity  of  glaze.  This  is 
due  to  the  difference  in  methods  of  manufacture,  and 
allowance  should  be  made  for  the  irregularities  occa- 
sioned by  the  baking  of  glazed  clay  products.  In  the 
past  when  English  porcelain  baths  were  being  imported 
it  was  perhaps  considered  distinction  to  have  a  solid 
porcelain  bath.    "With  the  present  extensive  manufac- 


306  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

ture  of  these  products  in  this  country,  this  condition  has, 
of  course,  changed.  The  porcelain  lined  bath  is  pre- 
ferred by  some  on  account  of  its  requiring  less  hot  water 
to  hold  the  desired  temperature.  Against  this  is  the 
fact  that  cheap  porcelain  lined  baths  should  be  avoided. 

There  are  some  points  in  favor  of  the  enameled  tub. 
It  doesn't  absorb  so  much  heat  from  the  water;  hence  a 
hot  bath  can  be  obtained  in  it  more  quickly.  It  is 
lighter  in  weight,  therefore  more  easy  to  install  in  frame 
houses  and  its  plumbing  is  easier  to  handle.  Further- 
more, greater  uniformity  can  be  had  in  its  construction. 

In  the  tub  which  is  built  into  the  wall,  there  is  a 
tendency  to  neglect  proper  piping  conditions.  When 
installing  a  solid  tub,  it  is  necessary  to  build  a  bulk- 
head in  back  of  the  tub  so  as  to  take  care  of  the 
waste  pipe  which  should  be  available  to  the  plumber  as 
it  often  needs  a  new  washer.  Or  it  must  be  built  against 
a  closet  wall  so  that  the  pipes  are  easy  to  get  at,  or 
against  a  hall  wall  or  some  stable  place. 

Valves 

There  are  myriads  of  styles  of  faucets,  vents  and  out- 
lets used  to-day  in  tubs. 

It  was  at  first  thought  advisable  to  have  the  inlet  as 
near  the  floor  of  the  tub  as  possible  in  order  to  make 
the  pour  of  the  water  practically  soundless  after  the  first 
inch  or  two  came  in.  This  is  about  the  only  advantage 
of  this  arrangement.  It  is  far  better  to  have  the  inlet 
higher  up,  either  on  top  of  the  wall  of  the  tub,  or  even 
in  the  wall  above  the  tub.  If  it  is  in  the  wall  of  the 
room  it  is  impossible  to  hit  your  back  while  bathing ;  and 
you  may  have  a  shampoo  nozzle  attached ;  or  draw  water 
from  it  whether  you  are  in  the  tub  or  not,  and  when 
necessary,  fill  a  pail  or  dish.  There  is  more  noise  when 
the  water  is  running  into  the  tub,  but  what  of  it  ?    If  you 


BEAUTY  AND  THE  BATH  307 

have  a  good  door  on  your  room,  that  will  silence  the 
sound. 

With  the  low  inlet,  there  is  a  remote  danger  of  draw- 
ing in  through  the  pipe  dirty  water  from  the  apartment 
above  if  some  one  is  bathing  in  the  tub  which  is  a  twin  to 
yours.  It  is  quite  possible  for  this  to  happen  unless 
the  plumbing  system  is  very  well  contrived. 

You  can  have  a  hot  water  and  a  cold  water  faucet  or 
one  faucet  from  which  both  hot  and  cold  come.  This 
is  a  matter  of  taste.  More  often  there  are  two,  but  many 
people  like  one,  so  that  there  can  be  a  mixture  of  water, 
giving  a  comfortable  temperature. 

Tubs,  of  necessity,  have  to  be  placed  in  many  ways. 
When  in  recesses  or  in  a  corner,  the  valves,  etc.  can  be 
placed  at  one  end.  When  against  a  wall,  the  piping 
can  be  placed  above  the  bath  in  the  wall.  This  method 
often  lends  a  luxurious  air  to  a  room  and  has  been  util- 
ized in  the  most  elaborate  ones. 

The  SH0V7ER  Bath 

Nearly  every  modern  bath  has  a  shower  of  some  de- 
scription. 

The  difficulty  with  the  shower  is  the  splashiness  of  it. 
The  first  protective  device  was  a  cloth  on  a  bracket. 
This  is  still  used  to  a  great  extent,  but  the  ideal  arrange- 
ment is  to  have  the  shower  in  a  closet  designed  for  it, 
opening  into  the  room.  This  closet  may  be  of  glass, 
marble,  or  tile,  with  a  cloth  curtain  or  a  door  to  match 
the  material  of  which  the  section  is  built.  The  door 
should  be  as  small  as  possible.  Twenty  inches  is  quite 
large  enough.  The  smaller  the  opening,  the  less 'chance 
for  the  escape  of  water.  Besides,  a  large  door  is  a 
nuisance  to  clean. 

When  the  compartment  is  used  there  can  be,  besides 
the  ordinary  head  bath,  a  needle  bath.     This  may  con- 


308  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

sist  of  from  eight  to  twelve  nozzles  pointing  in  from  the 
four  corners  of  the  compartment,  or  it  may  be  a  series 
of  apertures  in  metal  pipes  hung  around  the  inside  of 
the  compartment.  "When  the  separate  compartment  for 
the  shower  is  not  desired,  you  may  find  a  substitute  for 
the  sheet  in  the  arrangement  seen  in  the  Warburg  bath- 
room— plate  glass  leaves.  The  glass  sheets  are  practical 
and  not  cumbersome.  Nevertheless,  they  involve  more 
cleaning,  and  in  the  average  home  this  must  be  con- 
sidered to-day. 

Mixing  the  "Water 

There  are  various  propositions  on  the  market  to  mix 
the  water  in  the  shower  so  that  it  can  not  scald  the 
bather.  One  manufacturer  offers  a  little  toe  pipe,  with 
which  to  test  the  temperature  of  the  water  before  start- 
ing the  bath.  These  things  are  more  or  less  desirable 
and  dependable  but  are  not  at  all  necessary. 

It  is  best  to  have  the  valves  at  the  entrance  as  you 
walk  into  the  shower,  so  that  your  arm  may  not  be  under 
the  flow  when  it  begins.  If  the  piping  is  well  done  and 
the  valves  work,  the  mixture  of  hot  and  cold  water  can 
be  tempered  sufficiently  to  be  safe  and  comfortable. 
Here,  as  well  as  in  every  other  department  of  purchas- 
ing, you  are  told  a  lot  of  things,  and  if  inexperienced, 
you  may  be  horribly  taken  in,  and  led  to  buy  a  lot  of 
unnecessary  things,  which  though  good  in  themselves, 
are  quite  dispensable. 

The  shower  bath  compartment  must,  of  course,  be 
large  enough  to  permit  the  bather  to  stand  inside  with- 
out having  to  be  all  the  time  under  the  shower.  This 
is  an  important  point.  Glass  doors  are  not  necessary 
either  for  a  tiled  or  for  a  marble  compartment.  A  light 
weight  curtain  is  good,  with  the  smallest  possible  en- 
trance.   This  obviates  the  cleaning  of  the  door. 


BEAUTY  AND  THE  BATH  309 

Tiled  floors  and  floors  of  honed  marble  are  better  for 
shower  receptors  than  are  the  porcelain  ones.  They  fit 
into  the  building  problem  better,  can  be  made  in  any 
size  and  are  less  slippery.  Be  very  careful  in  selecting 
the  plumber  who  puts  in  your  shower,  because  unless 
the  drain  and  curb  are  absolutely  right  you  will  be  ex- 
posed to  the  danger  of  flooding  the  room  and  the  par- 
titions of  the  house. 

Lavatories  and  Tables 

The  styles  of  these  are  legion.  The  sizes  are  so  well 
standardized  that  unless  one  wants  them  made  according 
to  some  bizarre  pattern  it  is  not  necessary  to  give  di- 
mensions. The  usual  length  is  about  33".  This  is 
ample  and  graceful.  The  54"  takes  more  space  than 
most  bathrooms  can  give  up  to  the  lavatory,  and  makes 
quite  unnecessary  bulk.  The  33"  lavatory — and  any 
smaller  size — can  be  made  of  vitrified  china,  which  is 
handsomer  and  less  absorbent  than  the  solid  porcelain 
lavatory.  The  vitrified  china  is  fired,  and  therefore  it 
is  difficult  to  make  in  large  pieces. 

Lavatories  may  be  made  for  corners,  or  straight  walls. 
They  may  have  two  legs,  or  a  center  pedestal  or  four 
legs,  or  they  may  be  simply  hung  on  brackets.  Two 
legs,  however,  is  the  usual  style,  although  four  makes 
a  very  luxurious  looking  table.  The  legs  can  be  had  in 
nickel,  glass,  brass  or  in  the  handsomest  types  of  gold, 
with  carving  or  some  other  kind  of  design. 

There  has  .been  a  reversion,  too,  in  the  lavatory.  The 
new  style  is  to  make  them  of  imported  marble,  cut  in 
one  piece.  With  these  the  gold  leg  is  suitable,  also  glass 
which  looks  well  and  is  most  satisfactory,  and  is  easy  to 
clean.  Soft  American  marble  is  absorptive  and  stains 
easily,  so  when  you  use  marble,  get  the  imported  if 
possible.    Another  point  should  be  noted  in  buying  the 


310  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

lavatory, — have  enough  space  on  it  so  that  it  can  hold 
a  glass;  otherwise  extra  cost  "will  accrue  from  break- 
age and  ruined  nerves. 

In  addition  to  the  lavatory,  as  we  have  said,  is  the 
bidet,  and  the  dressing  table.  The  latter  is  sometimes 
made  of  glass  on  gold,  nickel  or  brass  standards,  but  it 
is  oftener  made  of  vitrified  porcelain  on  four  legs. 

These  regal  appointments  are  given  to  show  how  some 
people  live. 

Faucets 

The  faucets  on  tubs,  lavatories,  bidet,  shower,  etc., 
require  a  great  deal  of  care,  since  they  must  be  cleaned 
so  often.  Various  materials  have  been  used,  such  as 
cut  glass,  porcelain  and  nickel,  porcelain-like  enamel, 
brass,  silver,  gold,  etc.  For  a  very  rich  room,  gold  and 
cut  glass,  or  the  gold  alone  is  beautiful.  But  for  most 
rooms  the  porcelain  and  nickel  faucets  are  the  very  best 
and  demand  the  least  care.  All-white  enamel  is  not 
durable  and  is  hard  to  take  care  of  properly. 

It  is  very  much  better  to  have  one  faucet  through 
which  both  hot  and  cold  water  can  flow.  The  faucet 
should  have  an  overhang  of  at  least  1"  from  the  side 
of  the  lavatory,  so  that  it  will  be  possible  to  get  a  glass 
under  it  for  filling  or  your  hand  under  for  washing, 
thus  obviating  the  necessity  of  filling  a  basin  every  time 
you  want  to  rinse  your  hands.  There  are  fancy  faucets 
which  do  not  meet  these  requirements,  but  avoid  them. 

Faucets  which  only  flow  when  held  are  a  curse  and 
should  only  be  used  in  public  places  where  the  water 
tax  is  high. 

What  you  must  look  out  for  in  the  floor  tile  is  that  it 
be  as  little  slippery  as  possible.  Therefore  do  not  get 
a  glazed  tile.  More  and  more  floors  are  being  tiled  in 
colors,  to  match  the  home  scheme.     Also,  the  dull  tile 


BEAUTY  AND  THE  BATH  311 

obviates  the  squeak  occasioned  by  the  shoes  touching 
it.     This  is  a  minor  point,  but  one  worthy  of  notice. 

Walls  can  be  tiled  to  any  height  desired.  In  the 
average  room  the  tile  is  carried  only  4'  6"  up  except  at 
the  point  where  the  shower  is  installed.  There  it  should 
be  carried  up  7'. 

The  Closet 

The  syphon  type  is,  of  course,  the  best  obtainable. 
Many  closets  are  sold  especially  from  catalog  and  by 
mail,  as  absolutely  silent.  Never,  if  you  can  help  it, 
buy  anything  of  this  sort  from  a  photograph.  No  closet 
can  be  absolutely  silent.  If  there  is  any  flow  at  all, 
complete  silence  would  be  impossible.  A  minimum  of 
noise  is  the  best  that  can  be  achieved,  and  the  best 
makers  have  closets  of  this  sort. 

The  bowls  are  generally  of  porcelain,  and  the  best 
ones  are  of  vitrified  china  (really  porcelain),  which 
is  non-absorbent  and  quite  the  thing  for  this  use  because 
of  the  freedom  from  discoloration. 

For  general  use,  the  less  wood  around  the  seat,  the 
better. 

The  tank  as  a  flushing  medium  is  still  about  the  best 
thing  to  use.  There  are  on  the  market  various  flush 
valve  types,  some  of  which  operate  with  a  foot  button 
on  the  floor  or  with  a  hand  lever  on  the  right  side  of  the 
closet.  These  may  be  good  in  some  locations,  but 
neither  the  ordinary  plumber  nor  the  man  in  the  house 
can  repair  them  in  an  emergency.  The  piping  in  the 
valve  type  of  flusher  requires  careful  arrangement  to 
avoid  trouble. 

Sometimes  it  is  rather  convenient  to  have  the  closet 
in  a  doored  recess  opening  into  the  room  and  available 
from  the  hall  as  well.  This  is  especially  to  the  point 
when  there  are  few  bathrooms  in  the  house. 


312  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Incidental  Fittings 

Chairs  and  stools  are  usually  in  white  enamel  or  in 
fancy  rooms  are  made  to  match  the  general  style  which 
prevails  in  the  decoration. 

The  question  of  closets  in  the  bathroom  is  entirely 
dependent  upon  individual  taste.  You  can  have  the 
wall  and  mirror  finished  type,  or  the  long  door  regular 
closet,  or  a  combination  of  these,  with  or  without  full 
length  mirror.  In  some  rooms  a  glass  shelved  linen 
closet  is  found  to  be  a  real  convenience. 

The  soap  racks,  etc.,  have  lately  become  recessed  in 
walls.  This  system  is  not  popular,  however,  because, 
although  useful  and  economical  for  hotel  or  institutional 
use,  it  adds  no  charm  to  the  fine  bathroom.  Rather, 
it  detracts  from  its  dignity. 

A  nice  way  to  have  scales  in  a  bathroom  is  to  have 
the  dial  encased  in  the  wall,  and  the  tray  on  which  one 
stands,  sunk  into  the  floor.  This  arrangement  econo- 
mizes space  and  is  very  welcome  to  fastidious  people. 

Plan  the  bathroom  of  your  house  early.  Talk  with 
your  architect.  Insist  upon  the  best  and  get  it.  Your 
bathroom  need  consist  of  very  few  things,  in  the  last 
analysis,  and  the  wisest  plan  is  to  get  the  best.  The 
cost  will  be  from  $250  upwards,  for  fixtures.  How- 
ever, it  is  wisest  to  buy  the  best  you  can  afford  so  that 
a  replacement  cost  is  obviated.  There  must  be  no 
skimping  of  plumbing  work,  because  that  would  be  a 
menace  to  both  health  and  wealth,  and  the  plumbing 
costs  no  more  for  good  material  than  for  bad. 


CHAPTER  XXXV 

THE  WINTER  OF  YOUR  CONTENT 

HOT  or  tempered  air  is  the  theme — how  the  air  in 
our  rooms  is  kept  pleasant  in  cold  weather  and  not 
too  hot —  this  is  the  duty  of  the  heating  plant. 

Furthermore,  beyond  the  duty  of  the  heating  plant, 
it  has  been  the  great  civilizing  influence  in  the  life  of 
man.  Wherever  the  heating  plant  has  gone,  there  has 
man  been  able  to  regulate  his  work,  play  and  goings  and 
comings.  In  this  way  health  has  been  better  main- 
tained and  more  regularly  in  work,  therefore,  con- 
tinuous endeavor  which,  of  course,  spells  advance  and 
civilization. 

Not  wishing  to  deprive  heating  engineers  of  their 
profession  we  shall  not  drag  you  through  tortuous  tech- 
nical pipes  and  valves,  but  simply  tell  you  what  you 
must  demand  in  a  heating  installation.  —  Here,  unless 
you  are  properly  equipped  you  will  add  to  the  junk 
pile  in  quantity  and  therefore  waste  your  money  by  the 
wholesale. 

First:  you  must  decide  whether  you  really  want  hot 
air  or  furnace  heating.  In  this  case  the  furnace  heats 
the  air  and  it  rises  through  a  register  in  the  floor  or 
wall  of  your  room.  According  to  J.  Byers  Holbrook, 
the  distinguished  heating  engineer,  this  sort  of  heating 
tarnishes  your  silver,  your  bookbindings  crack  and 
your  lungs  are  made  either  immune  to  poison  or  function 
in  spite  of  the  * '  rich  air ' '  reaching  them. 

In  this  place  it  is  wise  to  mention  the  pipeless  heat- 
ing system  which  is  hot  air  sent  from  the  furnace  to  one 

313 


314  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

central  vent  or  register  which  is  supposed  to  heat  the 
whole  house.  It  can  be  used  only  for  small  houses. 
It  is  very  cheap  in  comparison  to  other  systems,  but  it 
is  unsafe.  (See  the  safer  method  further  along  in  this 
chapter  under  "Bungalows.")  It  is  unsafe;  for  ex- 
ample :  If  there  be  illness  in  one  room  it  has  to  be  open 
to  be  heated  therefore  disease  will  be  spread.  Further- 
more rooms  that  are  closed  will  get  no  heat,  as  the  door 
must  be  open  to  receive  the  hot  air. 

Second:  there  is  steam  heat.  This  is  an  excellent 
system  well  adapted  to  residences  and  buildings,  hotels, 
institutions,  business  houses,  etc. 

Third:  Vacuum  and  Vapor,  the  steam  circulates 
through  the  system  at  practically  atmospheric  or  greatly 
reduced  pressure.  Vapor  heating  is  used  in  residences, 
vacuum  heating  is  used  mostly  in  large  buildings. 

Fourth:  Hot  Water,  which  is  probably  best  for  your 
purposes.  And  with  these  deterring  and  encouraging 
words  we  will  launch  directly  into  what  you  should 
know  before  installing  a  hot  water  heating  plant. 

The  Heating  Engineer 

There  is  such  an  "animal"  as  the  heating  engineer. 
He  it  is  who  can  tell  you  to  an  iota  how  much  heating 
surface  you  have  in  your  home  to  be  heated.  He  it  is 
who  can  subtract  and  add  footage  and  finally  tell  you 
whether  you  must  heat  4400  feet  or  3000  feet.  When 
ycu  know  this,  of  course,  you  can  more  readily  order  the 
boiler  which  is  best  adapted  to  heat  such  a  surface. 

For  example,  suppose  you  had  a  conservatory  in  one 
end  of  a  large  room — your  heating  engineer  could  tell 
you — due  to  the  glass  surface — how  much  more  heat  was 
required  for  this  room,  even  had  you  no  flowers  for 
your  conservatory.  Glass  windows  in  a  shop  or  in  any 
room  add  to  the  heat  units  required. 


THE  WINTER  OF  YOUR  CONTENT       315 

Computing  heating  area  is  not  easy — because  the 
shapes  of  rooms,  kinds  and  varieties  and  areas  of  walls 
and  door  openings  come  into  the  problem,  to  say  naught 
of  the  badly  fitted  windows  and  doors  permitting 
draughts,  etc.  So  you  see  the  heating  and  ventilating 
engineer  has  a  job  that  the  amateur  or  even  the  steam 
fitter  knows  not  of,     (See  Chapter  XXXIII). 

Usually  the  householder  isn't  asked  about  her  heat- 
ing plant  at  all.  The  contracter,  architect  and  builder 
fix  it  all  up.  But — we  don't  hold  with  this.  You  have 
to  live  with  your  heating  plant,  they  do  not — and  it's 
pretty  much  on  your  head  that  discomfort  falls.  Were 
we  building  we  would  be  quite  intimate  with  the  heat- 
ing end  of  life,  in  fact  take  a  heated  and  intensely  fe- 
verish interest  in  it.  Therefore,  after  your  plans,  etc, 
are  hatched,  call  on  a  heating  engineer  for  a  few  sug- 
gestions, and  then  go  to  j^our  contractor  and  see  from 
whom  he  is  to  buy  your  boiler  and  what  type.  Then 
tell  him  you  require  certain  things  in  your  boiler  which 
we  have  listed  ''here  below"  for  your  winter  of  content. 

Principal  of  Heating 

Steam  heat  is,  of  course,  heating  by  means  of  circulat- 
ing steam  through  pipes  to  radiators.  This  is  affected 
by  a  one  pipe  system  sometimes,  or  a  two  pipe.  The 
steam  ascending  from  the  boiler  in  one  pipe  and  con- 
densing into  water  falls  back  into  boiler  in  same  pipe. 
In  the  two  system  arrangement  the  steam  ascends  in 
one  and  returns  in  the  other.  The  one  pipe  system, 
of  course,  is  cheaper  but  takes  skill  in  setting,  as  the 
pitch  of  it  (the  angle)  must  be  perfection.  In  the  ra- 
diators the  steam  condenses  and  returns  in  separate 
pipes  in  the  two  pipe  system. 

Hot  water  heating  is  the  circulation  of  hot  water 
through  pipes  to  radiators.    The  heated  water  being 


316  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

lighter  rises  and  as  it  cools  in  giving  off  kind  heat  to 
you,  it  falls  back  again  into  the  boiler  where  it  is  again 
heated  and  takes  another  "rise"  and  so  it  circulates 
through  its  system.  Therefore,  in  all  heating  systems 
there  are  two  main  divisions:  the  generation  part  of 
boiler  and  the  circulation  part  of  piping  throughout  the 
house-  Both  parts  must  be  perfect  to  insure  perfection 
of  heating.  The  first  part  dependent  on  many  factors, 
the  second  on  a  few  more.  In  the  hot  water  system 
an  expansion  tank  is  always  placed  at  the  top  of  the 
house  in  order  that  the  overflow  can  be  taken  care  of. 

Boiler  Purchase 

1.  Swiftly  speaking — the  boiler  must  make  every 
pound  of  coal  do  its  best,  it  should  respond  rapidly 
to  climatic  changes,  it  must  be  easily  fueled,  shaken, 
regulated,  cleaned,  free  from  repairsi,  rust,  leaks 
water  heat  or  gas  and  it  must  be  easily  set  up  in  room 
for  its  use.  (All  good  boiler  makers  send  you  "coal 
information.") 

Economy  in  fuel  and  labor. 

Save  coal  yes  ?  But  economy  in  coal  means  getting 
out  of  every  pound  the  maximum.  So  when  you  buy 
coal  ask  what  its  fuel  value  is?  It  ought  to  be  about 
12,500  to  14,500  B.  T.  U.— that  is,  it  takes  to  raise  100 
pounds  of  water  1  degree  Fahrenheit,  100  British 
Thermal  units  of  heat.  B.  T.  U.  is  the  "way  to 
measure  heat  units  as  7  yards  of  satin  is  the  way  you 
measure  goods  for  a  dress.  The  best  type  of  boiler 
for  the  home  is  the  sectional,  cast-iron  type.  In  this 
the  water  is  run  through  tubes  and  presents  a  large 
number  of  surfaces  of  water  to  the  heat. 

You  must  demand  a  boiler  amply  large  and  of  the 
best  type  of  tubular — where  heating  is  most  rapid,  and 
direct  in  order  to  save  fuel,  in  order  too,  that  all  the 


THE  WINTER  OF  YOUR  CONTENT       317 

heat  generated  goes  to  heating  the  house,  not  in  warm- 
ing the  flue  or  chimney. 

2.  Fuel  portion.  These  must  be  deep  to  insure  enough 
coal  at  least  for  8  hours  of  heat.  So  that  in  the 
morning  your  house  will  be  warm  and  some  coal  left 
in  to  be  joined  in  lawful  heating  to  the  next  supply 
— leaving  no  interim  of  coolness  which  wastes  the 
coal  and  supplies  pneumonia.  It  takes  more  coal  to 
reheat  completely  than  to  add  heat  to  a  heated  mass 
of  coal. 

3.  Boiler  capacity.  Find  out  how  your  boiler  is  rated. 
If  its  capacity  only  assures  you  6  hours  of  heating; 
you  must  not  expect  it  to  do  8  or  10.  Only  in  the  best 
— the  very  best  makes,  do  the  ratings  have  much 
weight.  Experience  counts.  You  can  tell  approxi- 
mately. But  buy  the  boiler  you  don't  have  to  force. 
For  forcing  a  boiler  adds  to  your  coal  bill.  Your 
boiler  capacity  must  be  a  little  beyond  what  you 
actually  need.  70  degrees  in  zero  weather  is  the 
standard.  A  strong  "Coal-ition"  government  is  here 
necessary ! 

4.  Rapid  water  heating  essential. — 

Water-ways  thin  enough  to  heat  water  rapidly. 
Quality  and  position  of  heating  surface  must  not 
allow  for  waste  of  heat.  65%  of  heating  surface 
should  be  in  direct  contact  with  heat,  35%  in  flue 
surface.  Response  to  your  dampers  will  show  you  if 
you  have  65%  of  your  heating  surface  in  direct  con- 
tact with  flame !  Go  and  see  the  best  hot  water  boiler 
in  your  vicinity — before  you  buy  consult  your  engi- 
neer and  ask  about  others. 

5.  Operating  must  be  easy  "as  pie."  Grates  should 
be  easily  pivoted  and  balanced.  Arrangement  must 
prevent  all  accidental  dumpings  of  fuel  in  fire  pot. 
Coal  so  used  as  to  not  disappear  through  grate.     One 


318  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

boiler  employs  a  damper  rod  running  to  the  front 
which  enables  the  caretaker  to  open  and  close  the 
smoke  damper  rapidly  when  building  and  this  pre- 
vents gas  and  smoke  leakage  when  door  is  open.  Such 
a  device  as  this  makes  a  floor  room  in  a  cellar  feasi- 
ble. The  boilers  of  some  companies  are  so  beautifully 
contrived  and  finished  that  they  are  no  worse  than  a 
talking  machine  or  upright  piano  in  a  play  room.  In 
fact  better  looking! 

Feed  doors  should  be  wide  mouthed  enough  to  put  in 
easily  the  various  "meal  time"  supplies. 

The  ash  pits  must  be  big  enough  to  hold  ashes  away 
from  the  grates. 

6.  Sectional  construction  desirable. — 

These  sections  make  it  possible  to  enlarge  a  boiler; 
(2)  to  move  it  into  a  house  built  completely  without 
tearing  down  the  house,  and  obviates  its  sitting 
around  in  a  house  which  is  being  built,  a  prey  to  all 
sorts  of  bad  treatment;  (3)  can  be  taken  through  any 
cellar  door;  (4)  can  easily  be  taken  apart. 

7.  Must  be  easily  cleaned. — 

All  surfaces  must  be  available,  fire  and  flue  parts 
largely  self  cleaning.  The  surfaces  can  be  so  made 
that  soot  peels  off.  Flat  surfaces  must  be  easily 
reached  for  quick  cleaning,  14  i^ich  soot  deposit  will 
demand  50%  more  coal.  So  get  an  easily  cleaned 
boiler  or  no  one  will  clean  it  at  all ! 

Boilers  should  have  conveniently  placed  doors  into 
which  cleaners  can  have  access.  If  cleaning  is  easy 
it  will  be  done,  otherwise  it  will  not.  We  made  this 
point  too,  with  refrigerators,  etc. 

8.  All  connections  must  be  water  tight,  steam  tight, 
gas  tight.  There  should  be  no  packed  or  gasket  joints 
made  of  rubber,  asbestos,  paper  or  other  washers  in 


THE  WINTER  OF  YOUR  CONTENT       319 

connecting  joints,  etc.  This  is  very  important.  Re- 
packing should  never  be  necessary  with  your  boiler — 
the  longer  it  is  used  the  tighter  the  sections,  etc.,  and 
yet  they  are  easily  taken  apart  at  any  moment.  The 
nipples  or  valves  must  be  easily  closed  and  everlast- 
ingly tight,  yet  easily  opened. 

9.  The  steam  boiler  for  steam  heat;  the  water  boiler 
for  water  heating.     No  straddlers  must  be  used. 

10.  The  best  boiler  is  of  cast-iron.  It  will  outlast  the 
building ;  will  not  rust  or  pit.  It  is  so  built  as  never 
to  need  repair  and  it  doesn  't  ever  seem  to  wear  out. 

This  is  an  investment — other  kinds  of  boilers  are 
finally  permitted  to  add  a  value  to  the  junk  pile  by 
rusting,  pitting,  and  other  useless  decadences. 

11.  No  danger  in  a  boiler  where  the  fire  chamber  is  en- 
tirely surrounded  by  water  and  steam  surfaces;  and 
when  the  boiler  stands  low  and  therefore  well  away 
from  the  joists  and  woodwork.  Boilers  are  generally 
tested  for  80  pounds  pressure,  but  to  operate  them  2 
pounds  ought  to  be  enough,  though  1  to  5  is  the  usual 
bill-of-fare. 

Steam  boilers  should  have  a  relief  valve — ^when 
pressure  builds  up  to  10  or  11  pounds. 

12.  Should  be  few  outside  fixings — should  be  able  to 
be  installed  without  digging  a  pit.  This,  by  the  way. 
would  be  a  good  way  of  starting  your  chat  with  the 
regal  contracter,  "I  want  a  simple,  fine  boiler,  for 
which  no  pits  must  be  dug,  or  brick  enclosures."  The 
best  boilers  only  require  a  brick  base,  for  obvious 
reasons.  There  should  be  no  alterations  of  building 
necessary,  because  the  sectional  boiler  like  the  sec- 
tional bookcase  is  made  to  fit  in  anywhere.  As- 
bestos covering  of  boiler  often  prevents  waste  of  heat 
in  the  cellar. 


320  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

13,  Thermostatic  valves  come  with  some  boilers  to  cut 
off  automatically  and  "set  on"  heat.  This  conserves 
fuel.     (See  section  on  heat  control.) 

Piping 

The  piping  from  boilers  to  radiators  has  to  be  done 
carefully.  The  best  steam  fitter  is  none  too  good.  The 
grade  or  pitch  of  the  pipes  etc.,  the  area  of  surface, 
the  diameter  et  al  must  be  adapted  to  area  to  be  heated 
and  to  the  system  employed — all  of  course,  is  too  tech- 
nical for  your  needs  here.  Only  you  must  require  care 
to  be  used  here  and  let  your  contractor  know  you're 
"on." 

The  Gas  Boiler 

In  this  boiler  you  get  maximum  comfort  and  max- 
imum heat.  No  coal,  no  ashes,  no  bother,  little  cash. 
But  this  must  be  from  the  best  makers.  It  is  usually 
more  costly  to  operate — but — ! 

Water  Backs 

Boiler  makers  in  outstanding  manufacturers  make 
excellent  water  heaters  in  which  water  for  laundry 
etc.  is  heated  by  heat  which  would  otherwise  be  unused. 

Eadutors 

Radiators  are  the  translators!  They  are  like  the 
English  writers  who  translate  the  Russian  novel.  The 
radiator  alone  tells  us  whether  our  hot  water  in  the 
boiler  is  being  translated  into  heat  for  our  comfort. 

They  are  either  curses  or  benefits!  But  they  are 
usually  the  eye-sore  of  the  home. 

In  short  they  are  a  series  of  tubing  which  present 


THE  WINTER  OF  YOUR  CONTENT        321 

a  maximum  of  heat  radiator  surface.  They  have  valves, 
for  controlling  the  heat. 

If  you  buy  the  right  valves,  your  radiators  will  not 
leak,  water-hammer  or  bang,  or  flood. 

An  air  valve  must  let  out  the  air  to  permit  the  steam 
or  water  to  fill  the  pipes.  If  it  doesn't  do  this,  it  is 
of  no  use.  Varying  steam  pressure,  flooded  radiators, 
forced  firing  of  boiler  (which  you  must  avoid  by  having 
a  boiler  with  large  enough  capacity)  are  overcome  with 
correct  valves.  The  right  valve  saves  fuel,  because 
unnecessary  amount  of  pressure  is  not  needed  to  force 
out  air,  the  right  valve  copes  with  dirt  and  dust,  pre- 
vents floods,  requires  no  adjustment.  Air  and  steam 
units  cannot  mix,  the  valve  releases  the  air.  The  valves 
must  be  all  metal  five  years  guarantee,  and  no  adjust- 
ment necessary. 

The  radiator  which  is  recessed  in  the  wall  has  the 
advantage  of  being  less  visible,  but  unless  you  employ 
heat  reflectors  you  will  lose  a  lot  of  heat — and  even 
with  them  you  lose  some. 

Some  manufacturers  are  doing  their  super-level  best 
to  build  radiators  which  are  lovely  to  the  eye.  But, 
again  like  the  upright  piano,  they  can  be  made  but 
comparatively  beautiful.  Gratings  can  veil  them  but 
are  gratings  lovely?     Then  too,  there  is  a  loss  of  heat. 

One  radiator  company  has  good-looking  radiators 
which  are  very  successful.  Their  series  of  columns 
make  them  able  to  resist  high  internal  pressure.  The 
internal  area  of  the  tubes  in  relation  to  the  heating  sur- 
face has  been  reduced  to  14  of  that  run  in  general  use. 
This  not  only  greatly  increases  the  pressure  resistance 
but  in  reducing  the  internal  area,  the  water  or  steam 
contents  are  likewise  reduced. 

There  is  on  the  market  a  covering  for  radiators  which 
is  very  satisfactory. 


322  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

There  is  more  heating  surface  in  this  type  too. 

The  water  content  is  i/^  the  content  of  other  radiators. 
This  means  quick  and  positive  venting  for  steam,  vapor, 
or  hot  water  installations  and  provides  rapid  circulation, 
causes  radiator  to  heat  up  more  rapidly. 

Am  Vent     (Steam  heating) 

The  air  vent  on  each  main,  allows  the  air  to  escape 
so  that  the  heat  arrives  more  rapidly  to  radiator.  This 
of  course,  saves  fuel. 

Heat  Controls 

To  take  the  ieating  of  your  home  out  of  the  area  of 
dreams  and  out  of  the  expensive  realm  of  "feeling," 
some  sort  of  heat  regulating  device  is  recommended. 
It  is  foolish  to  say  "Do  you  think  it  is  warm  enough?" 
to  a  group  in  the  room.     For  no  two  will  think  alike! 

Apart  from  this,  the  perfect  thermostat  not  only  tells 
you  at  what  temperature  is  your  house,  not  only  keeps 
the  house  evenly  heated,  but  in  doing  this  saves  you 
fuel,  expense,  illness  and  what  not. 

By  simple  mechanical  means  the  thermostat  opens 
and  closes  the  door  of  the  furnace  as  the  heat  needs 
to  be  lowered  or  increased.  In  this  way  if  less  heat  is 
required,  the  door  closes,  and  less  coal  is  used  etc. 

Thereby  another  simple  yet  ingenius  device.  The 
thermostat  can  be  set  to  do  these  things  at  any  time  you 
wish  it  to  be  done.  If  you  want  the  damper  opened  at 
7  A.  M.,  so  it  will  be  done — and  you  don 't  need  to  go  in 
your  pajamas  boiler-ward! 

There  are  two  or  three  excellent  thermostats  on  the 
market  and  many  not  so  good.  Be  sure  you  consult 
before  investing.    The  best  thermostats  have  no  corrod- 


THE  WINTER  OF  YOUR  CONTENT       323 

ing,  or  wearing  parts,  look  well  and  prove  themselves 
thoroughbreds. 

The  thermostat  prevents  cooling  off  of  the  boiler 
which  means  starting  a  fire  over  again — which  means 
wasted  fuel.  All  means  must  be  taken  against  such 
waste.  Much  coal  is  lost  in  uneven  combustion,  some 
coal  being  entirely  wasted.  The  thermostat  prevents 
this,  by  ordering  a  steady,  definite  consumption  of  coal. 

It  takes  far  less  coal  to  heat  hot  or  tempered  return 
water  than  to  heat  cold — the  thermostat  prevents  the 
cooling  down  entirely. 

The  Bungalow  Owner 

There  is  now  on  the  market  a  hot  water  boiler  which 
is  compact  and  good-looking  which  if  put  into  a  cellar- 
less  house  heats  it  with  the  efficiency  of  the  subterranean 
boiler!  This  is  done  through  pipes  and  radiators  and 
with*  a  maximum  comfort  and  a  minimum  care. 

Heat's  Influence 

It  is  usable  in  schools,  cottages,  etc.,  and  bids  well  to 
civilize  sections  of  the  world  which  have  starved  for 
heat  and  consequently  have  beea  stunted  in  physical 
and  mental  growth.  This  boiler  is  the  Ford  of  boilers, 
giving  unto  every  man  the  right  to  be  comfortable 
wherever  he  lives! 

Heating  with  Oil 

Oil  heaters  for  special  rooms  are  made  by  the  princi- 
pal oilstove  makers.  These  give  good  results  but  of 
course  are  not  comparable  to  hot  water  heating,  steam 
etc.,  plants. 


324  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Electric  Heating 

As  yet  heating  a  house  by  electricity  is  too  expensive 
and  isn't  done  except  by  small  comforting  heaters  which 
heat  one  room  at  a  time.  These  are  very  clean  and 
efficient  and  not  expensive. 

Hot  Water  Heating 

The  problem  of  heating  water  is  of  serious  dimensions 
for  life  without  hot  water  to  civilized  man  and  woman 
is  a  poor  struggle. 

At  present  there  are  on  the  market,  distinct  from  the 
usual  hot  water  plant  installed  in  properly  built  and 
equipped  houses — many  different  and  efficient  heaters 
and  boilers. 

In  houses  where  there  is  no  hot  water  central  plant 
there  can  be  bought  for  moderate  rates  an  electric  heater 
which  is  attached  to  the  faucet  in  tub  or  wash  basin 
or  sink  and  through  its  system  of  copper  coils  over 
which  the  water  flows  through,  you  can  get  hot  water 
immediately !  This  needs  be  but  connected  to  your  elec- 
tric light  circuit — outlet  or  fixture. 

Then  there  are  large  circulation  water  heaters  of 
electrical  contriving  which  of  course  has  to  be  separately 
connected — as  the  (Wattage)  heating  unit  is  rated  at 
about  660  watts!  These  heaters  are  of  excellent  con- 
struction, but  in  most  vicinities  as  yet — electricity  is  too 
expensive  to  use  thus.  This  is  controlled  from  any  place 
in  the  house,  so  you  need  not  go  down  in  cellar  to  start  a 
hot  water  ' '  anything ! "  In  the  best  of  these  it  is  poss- 
ible to  turn  on  more  heat  or  less  from  original  source  by 
the  use  of  multiple  heat  switches. 

All  conductors  must  be  insulated,  these  heaters  should 
be  easily  installed.  There  is  possible  here  hot  water 
without  ashes,  gas  fumes,  fire  risks — and  desired  tem- 


Cowtesu  of  National  Electric  Water  Heater  Corp. 

A  METHOD  OF  HEATING  WATER  BY  MEANS  OP  A  FAUCET 


ATTACHMENT 


THE  WINTER  OF  YOUR  CONTENT       327 

perature  at  will!  It  is  a  fine  hurry  device  for  the 
sometimes  opened  country  house.  In  winter  it  is  a  boon. 
Then  of  course  there  are  the  little  electric  emersion 
heaters.  This  is  a  heating  unit  which  is  dropped  into 
the  water  basin,  pitcher,  tea-pot  or  what  not  and  at- 
tached to  electric  light  bulb  very  quickly  heats  your 
water. 

Gas 

The  gas  heater  up  to  date  has  been  most  reliable  and 
efficient. 

There  are  many  good  gas  heaters  too  on  the  market, 
which  when  you  turn  on  the  water  start  the  fire !  These 
are  rapid  and  have  given  very  good  results. 

There  are  many  "boiler"  heated  water  schemes — the 
water  backs  on  gas  and  coal  stoves  etc.  Then  too  a 
very  efficient  method  is  using  the  heat  (over)  not  used  in 
the  sectional  boiler  for  heating  the  house.  This  is 
effectively  used  in  auxiliary  boilers  for  heating  hot 
water.  Some  firms  are  rightly  proud  of  this  contri- 
vance as  it  is  inexpensive,  ample  and  convenient. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI 

OUTLETS    SAVE   YOUR    INCOME 

LET  there  be  light  and  there  was  none — is  the 
verdict  of  many  an  estimator  who  goes  over  a  home 
after  it  is  built  and  sees  the  occupants  laboring  to  read, 
sew,  game  or  cook  according  to  their  separate  desires. 

And  so  to  take  the  "bull  by  the  horns"  and  begin  with 
the  practical  first — one  of  the  best  ways  to  get  proper 
lighting  is  to  have  sufficient  outlets  for  electricity,  port- 
able lamps  with  oil  and  enumerable  fixtures  with  gas. 

This  will  deal  specifically  with  electric  light,  yet  the 
general  principals  will  apply  to  all  other  lighting. 

Lighting 

Good  lighting  can  mean  good  health.  Eye  strain  is 
often  the  cause  of  depleted  systems,  indigestion  and 
things  that  lead  to  other  calamaties.  Many  a  doctor 
would  better  analyze  a  home  to  see  what  could  afflict  the 
sufferer  than  analyze  the  patient ! 

Flickering  lights  strain  the  eye,  because  it  cannot 
adapt  itself  to  the  rapid  variations  in  intensity.  So  the 
flickering  light  must  go.  Lights  that  are  too  bright 
hurt  the  eye,  lights  that  are  dim  cause  strain,  all  in 
turn  having  disastrous  effect  on  sight  and  on  health — 
these  too  must  perish. 

The  best  sort  of  lighting,  of  course,  is  the  diffused 
light  which  without  glare  is  sufficient  for  reading,  etc. 
Here,  though,  the  distribution  may  be  so  imperfect  that 
the  glow  is  dispiriting  and  consequently  a  light  softener 

328 


OUTLETS  SAVE  YOUR  INCOME  329 

in  the  guise  of  a  lamp  shade  or  frosted  dulled  glass 
helps  the  situation. 

The  indirect  lighting  system,  is  popular  to-day. 
"When  buying  this  type  you  must  be  sure  to  get  them  as 
dust  and  bug  proof  as  possible.  The  simpler  they  are 
the  easier  to  keep  clean,  of  course. 

Money  can  be  saved  by  having  outlets  at  frequent  in- 
tervals, so  that  lamps  can  be  attached  at  the  point 
needed,  rather  than  having  to  light  many  lamps  at  vari- 
ous ridiculous  places  in  a  room  as  contributory  lights. 

Fixtures  which  have  lights  set  obliquely  in  them  are 
hard  on  the  eyes,  lights  are  not  meant  to  shoot  light  in 
your  face  but  to  supply  aid  quickly  and  politely  to  the 
eye.  Fixtures  should  have  their  globes,  in  the  perpen- 
dicular. 

Height  of  Lights 

Lights  should  be  high  enough  only  to  cast  a  direct 
light  on  the  subject  in  hand.  The  reading  lamp  must 
help  the  reader,  not  impede  him.  Try  over  and  over 
again  until  it  is  placed  correctly.  The  shade  should 
be  such  that  it  not  only  directs  and  diffuses  the  light, 
but  softens  and  subdues  and  makes  it  a  pleasant  thing  to 
the  eye. 

Very  often  dim  lights  can  be  magnified  by  a  reflector. 
Never,  though,  can  a  reflector  actually  increase  the  light, 
that  is  to  say,  the  reflector  doesn't  increase  the  electric 
power  or  size  of  lamps  but  simply  reflecting  more  than 
absorbing,  the  light  gives  you  its  fuller  value. 

Reflection 

You  are  probably  aware  that  certain  colors  absorb 
or  reflect  in  varying  degrees.  Usually  in  the  papering 
of  rooms  no  account  is  taken  at  all  of  this  perfectly 


330  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

honest  color  vagary.  Consequently,  a  dark  room  is  often 
somberly  decked  in  deep  chocolate  paper  and  therefore 
you  get  something  like  4%  reflection  whereas  in  that 
room  white  would  reflect  about  70%  and  a  wall  yellow 
painted  would  reflect  about  62%,  thereby  saving  the 
necessity  of  just  that  much  more  lighting. 

Green  reflects  about  18%,  blue  12%,  so  you  can  see 
here  what  to  do  with  certain  rooms  that  should  be  dim- 
mer or  brighter. 

In  the  same  way  shades  of  globes  enhance  or  detract 
in  reflection  capacity.  . 

Clear  glass  absorlas  about  5-12%  of  light  and  cobalt 
blue  about  95%,  so  here  you  see  if  you  have  a  lamp 
absorbing  95%  of  light — that  you  will  need  more  lamps 
than  one  absorbing  but  5%  !     Think  on  these  things. 

Light  Measurements 

The  foot  candle  is  the  unit  of  light  measurement.  A 
standard  candle  has  been  decided  upon  and  all  lighting 
calculated  on  this  basis.  We  say  we  have  16  candle 
power  lamp  that  it  means  it  gives  light  of  16  of  these 
standard  candles.  From  a  60  watt  lamp  the  candle 
power  obtained  from  a  tungsten  is  56  candle  power.  A 
saving  in  money  is  had  if  the  tungsten  though  more 
expensive  is  used. 

Cost  of  Light,  Electric 

The  amount  of  electricity  taken  by  a  lamp  is  measured 
in  watts — 

Watts  -f-  1000  equals  Kilowatts 
Kilowatts  X  hours  equals  Kilowatt  hours 
Kilowatt  hours  X  rate  equals  cost. 

(See  Chapter  I  on  Electricity.) 


OUTLETS  SAVE  YOUR  INCOME  331 

Economy  is  quite  possible  here  as  in  burning  oil  or 
any  thing  else.  If  your  lights  are  well  placed,  you  need 
less  light  if  they  have  not  too  absorbent  globes  you  will 
also  need  to  use  less  light,  if  you  have  proper  wall  tints, 
etc.  You  often  need  fewer  lamps.  One  good  lamp  in  the 
right  place  saves  two  or  three  wrongly  placed. 

The  Tungsten  filaments  burn  brighter  and  more 
cheaply  than  the  old  filament  of  carbon.  There  is 
a  saving  of  electricity  somewhere  around  50%  in  the  use 
of  new  filament. 

The  Incandescent  Light 

That  brings  us  to  the  story  of  the  incandescent  lamp — 
Incandescent  means  to  glow  with  heat —  In  short  the 
incandescent  light  is  one  which  employs  a  globe  in  which 
the  air  has  been  exhausted  and  in  which  a  vacuum  exists. 
Before  the  air  has  been  exhausted  a  filament  of  metal 
has  been  affixed  through  which  the  current  of  electricity 
is  passed.  In  the  resistance  of  this  current  the 
filament  glows  and  gives  the  light  that  you  use. 

Don't  take  any  lamp  you  can  get.  Ask  for  the 
number  of  candle  power  or  watts  you  want.  The  lamps 
to-day  are  more  popularly  sold  according  to  watts 
rather  than  candle  power. 

Indirect  and  Direct  Lighting 

Of  course  there  is  a  loss  every  time  the  light  is  re- 
flected through  a  diffusing  medium.  In  correct  direct 
lighting  most  of  the  light  is  only  reflected  once  before 
using  point.  In  indirect  lighting  it  has  one  more  reflec- 
tion (at  ceiling)  causing  a  loss  hardly  much  less  than 
25%  and  maybe  more.  The  diffusing  bowls  throw  a 
large  part  of  the  light — in  semi-direct  lighting — where 
there  is  a  similar  loss  and  the  part  of  the  light  which  goes 


332  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

through  the  bowl  is  considerably  reduced  by  absorption. 
Naturally  direct  lighting  is  most  ejfficient.  Yet  light- 
ing is  a  matter  of  diffusion  of  light  and  often  the  in- 
direct system  gives  not  only  more  joy  but  better  illum- 
ination with  no  greater  consumption  of  power  than 
direct  lighting. 

Avoid  shallow  reflectors  not  covering  filament  (or 
mantle  in  gas  lamps). 

The  plain  electric  glass  shades  through  which  the 
source  of  light  is  plainly  seen  are  practically  nil.  They 
absorb  more  light  than  a  good  reflector  and  do  no  good — 
unless  to  look  a  wee  bit  better  than  a  bare  lamp. 
Ground  glass  is  a  better  thing  but  poor  enough. 

Colored  shades  do  absorb  light  but  they  are  decora- 
tive— a  combination  of  white  reflectors  and  colored 
shades  Is  often  a  good  trick. 

Special  Room  Service 

In  lighting  rooms  remember  their  special  needs.  It 
is  very  unpleasant  to  have  a  light  unshielded  by  a  shade 
of  some  sort  as  the  eye  rebels  against  the  sharp  concen- 
tration of  light. 

Destinq  Room  Domes 

Dining  room  domes  are  like  mountains  of  flowers — 
obstruct  the  view  and  make  you  hurdle  to  see  a  diner 
opposite  to  you.  They  should  be  hung  high  enough  not 
to  become  obstructive  to  the  view  and  low  enough  not  to 
throw  light  in  your  eyes.  If  this  can't  be  done,  hang 
it  high  rather  than  low  and  cover  the  opening  of  the 
dome  with  a  material  somewhat  alike  in  color  to  the 
dome. 


OUTLETS  SAVE  YOUR  INCOME  333 


The  Bedroom 

Have  your  fixtures  on  the  side  walls  and  plenty  of 
them.  Yet  in  some  bedrooms,  there  are  often  three  lights 
used  when  one  properly  placed  would  be  enough! 
Think  of  the  money  outlay!  A  few  outlets  in  conven- 
ient places  will  make  it  easy  to  use  the  vibrator,  elec- 
tric pad,  shaving  stand  etc. 

The  Kitchen  and  Closets 

Over  the  sink  if  necessary  a  small  light  can  be  placed. 
All  dark  closets  should  have  an  electric  light;  which 
can  be  switched  on  from  the  outside  of  the  closet.  It  is 
a  real  sanitary  measure  to  say  nothing  else  of  the  an- 
cient blind  groping  in  a  dark  cupboard  for  these  things 
— which  roll  and  break  in  the  groping!  Blind  sport 
— Electric  lights  in  all  closets  are  not  luxuries  now  they 
are  nervous  prostration  preventives !  Light  is  a  detec- 
tive. Nothing  bad  can  survive  in  the  light!  Dirt 
is  revealed,  bad  conditions  laid  bare — hence  the  light 
works  for  good!  Closets  need  light,  shelves  as  well 
need  light  to  visualize  little  corner  lurkings ! 

A  good  light  in  the  vestibule  is  often  a  perfect  chap- 
eron for  youth ! 

The  shaving  mug  and  stand  need  careful  lighting  to 
prevent  discomfort  and  inadvertent  cuts. 

The  cellar  can  be  a  lonesome  spot  if  not  properly 
lighted.  No  one  will  clean  it.  A  switch  upstairs  to 
light  the  cellar  before  going  below,  with  enough  other 
lights  will  do  much  to  "sell"  the  cellar  as  a  usable,  clean- 
able  room. 

Flexible  lights  for  desks  are  great  comforts.  There 
are  countless  decorative  as  well  as  practical  desk  lamps 
on  the  market  to-day. 


334  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Although  the  primary  object  of  lighting  is  to  light,  yet 
the  market  to-day  has  any  number  of  fixtures  which 
seem  primarily  for  artistic  purposes.  And  we  must 
say  that  the  fixture  makers  have  a  long  way  to  go  yet  in 
the  sheer  beauty  field — as  have  most  non-custom  made 
products. 

Architects 

Don't  leave  your  lighting  to  your  architects.  Illumin- 
ating enginers  are  good  but  you  can  even  be  more  illu- 
minating by  knowing  your  own  needs  and  habits. 

There  is  no  excuse  with  electricity  in  not  having  your 
lights  where  you  want  them.  Buy  the  right  lights  to 
save  your  health  and  eyes. 

Talk  to  your  contracter  before  the  house  is  "let" 
for  building.     Here  is  the  time  to  talk  outlets! 

In  Finale 

1.  Clean  globes  mean  more  light.  Don't  think  you 
don't  have  to  clean  electric  lights.  You  waste  money 
on  electricity  with  every  grain  of  dust  on  your  globes. 

2.  Tired  eyes  often  mean  too  few  lights  or  light  placed 
in  wrong  places. 

3.  Remember  don't  always  blame  oook  or  work  for  in- 
digestion, it  may  be  your  eyes  from  bad  lighting. 

4.  A  bare  lamp  if  it  must  be  used  should  be  above  the 
eye  line,  always  use  a  shade. 

5.  Too  much  is  as  bad  as  too  little ;  both  strain  the  eye. 

6.  In  low  ceilinged  rooms  use  two  or  three  side  small 
lamps  rather  than  one  large  one. 

7.  Remember  ask  for  the  size  lamp  you  want,  don't 
just  say  "I  want  a  lamp." 

8.  If  you  don't  understand  lamps,  go  to  a  library  and 


OUTLETS  SAVE  YOUR  INCOME  335 

read  or  consult  a  good  electrician,  or  go  through  some 
one's  home. 

9.     Standard  plugs  throughout  the  whole  house  so  that 
all  connections  can  be  made  at  any  outlet. 

10.  It  is  wiser  to  have  more  rather  than  too  few  outlets. 

11.  Switches — remember  you  cau  have  lights  so  ar- 
ranged to  snap  on  and  off  in  the  closets  by  a  switch  on 
the  outside.  (1)  You  can  have  switches  (3  and  4 
way  switches)  that  enable  you  to  light  the  light  up- 
stairs from  downstairs  and  turn  it  off  when  you  get  up- 
stairs and  turn  it  on  again  either  up  or  downstairs. 

(2)  Side  wall  switches — near  doors  as  you  enter; 

(3)  Another  switch  to  turn  on  all  lights  in  house  at 
once  in  case  of  danger. 

Some  Sugges^ted  Novelties 

There  is  a  "cute"  little  thing  now  to  be  had  to  pre- 
vent you  bumping  your  shins  on  a  table  when  leaving 
the  room — a  light  that  when  you  put  it  out  stays  lit  one 
minute  after  you  pull  the  chain ! 

Cord  Divider 

There  is  also  a  device  which  connects  the  long  elec- 
tric cord  so  that  you  can  easily  lengthen  or  shorten  it 
without  calling  in  an  electrician. 

Tinting 

Lacquers  for  globes  can  be  bought  whereby  you  can 
reduce  the  glare  of  the  ordinary  lamp  at  will  or  even 
color  them  to  suit. 

Principles 

First  principle  is  that  diffusion  of  light  is  necessary 
in  order  to  see  the  object  clearly  and  pleasantly.     (2) 


336  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Brightness  is  to  be  avoided.  No  general  rule  can  be 
given  for  number  of  foot  candles — different  rooms — 
whether  dark  or  light  in  decoration — need  different 
treatment.  Experiment  and  experience  are  the  only 
arbiters  here. 

Some  rules:  (1)  Avoid  flickering  light — fatigue  and 
nerves  result  from  flickers.  (2)  Use  shaded  lamps. 
More  diffused  light  from  a  large  source  gives  better 
light  than  from  a  small.  (3)  Don't  judge  the  light  hy 
the  lamp.  The  lamp  doesn't  give  light.  The  light 
which  comes  directly  from  the  lamp  to  the  eye  does  no 
good  and  may  interfere  with  the  useful  light  which  has 
gone  from  the  lamp  to  the  surrounding  objects  and 
thence  to  the  eye. 

(4)  Do  not  face  the  light.  It  is  well  to  have  the  light 
from  above  over  the  left  shoulder.  This  plan  obviates 
the  shining  surfaces  of  paper,  table  tops  etc.  from  in- 
terfering with  pleasant  seeing.  In  this  way  too,  you  do 
not  see  the  lamp  itself.  If  you  have  to  shade  your 
book  the  light  is  wrong  for  you.  (5)  Awyid  hrilliant 
reflection  of  the  lamp.  (No  matter  how  brilliant  your 
own  reflection  may  be!)  Glossy  paper  in  books  espe- 
cially for  children  should  be  "verboten."  (6)  Keep 
lamp  away  from  your  work,  your  eye  likes  not  to  con- 
centrate on  concentrated  light.  The  desk  light  or  fac- 
tory light  lying  "away"  rather  than  "next  to"  is  far 
better  for  worker.  A  special  reading  lamp  is  good  but 
is  often  pleasanter  when  used  in  connection  with  a  soft 
general  lighting.  (7)  Vertical  light  carrying  fixtures 
are  best — old  ones  can  be  bent  to  carry  light  vertically. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII 
Tin  Ware,  Rubber  and  Paper 

TIN  is  one  of  the  oldest  metals  in  the  world.    The 
Ancient  Greeks  and  the  Ancient  Hebrews  made 
mention  of  it  frequently. 

Before  the  advent  of  the  Kingly  Aluminum  and  the 
Queenly  Enamels,  agates,  granites  etc.,  tin  was  used 
extensively  in  the  kitchen,  but  now  the  cooking  utensil 
is  very  rarely  tin  and  rightly  so. 

However,  tin  still  remains  a  good  thing  for  various 
things  in  the  home  and  is  well  worth  employing  in 
different  ways.  These  ways  will  interest  you  to  con- 
sider. 

However — firstly — all  things  made  of  tin  to-day  are 
but  steel  or  iron  dip  and  coated  with  tin. 

Tin  melts  at  a  comparatively  low  temperature  and 
is  besides  affected  by  acids.  That  is  why  baking,  stew- 
ing, etc.  are  not  to  be  done  with  tin  utensils  plus 
acid  food.  The  dark  rings  on  baked  apples  cooked  in 
a  tin  dish  show  very  plainly  what  acid  and  tin  do  in 
combination. 

In  buying  tin  the  criterion  is  its  weight.  It  is  only 
wise  to  buy  tin  ware  in  the  best  shops,  because  small, 
but  out  of  the  way  hardware  shops  can  rarely  afford 
to  keep  on  hand  the  best  tinware. 

It  should,  of  course,  adhere  closely  to  the  lines  of  all 
other  utensils  in  that  it  must  be  smoothe  without  rough 
globules,  without  seams,  which  might  catch  food  or 
dust  particles  to  create  an  aftermath  condition  difficult 
to  rectify. 

337 


338  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


Cleaning 

Put  tin  to  be  cleaned  in  hot  soda,  never  more  than  5 
minutes  because  the  tin  will  dissolve  somewhat,  as  the 
heat  and  soda  meet  and  though  it  will  disintegrate  the 
grease  it  will  make  the  iron  or  steel  base  show  through. 
But  with  more  fine  powder  like  whiting,  rinse  hot,  and 
dry  while  hot.  Tin  will  rust  so  it  is  best  to  dry  while 
"the  tin  is  hot!" 

Japan 

Among  the  most  useful  and  jaunty  things  in  tin  is  the 
so-called  Japan  wear  which  is  but  painted  tin. 

Bread  and  cake  boxes  in  different  colors,  with  and 
without  shelves,  sliding  doors  and  in  varying  fasteners 
to  suit  your  fancy.  These  are  light  and  easier  to  man- 
age than  the  shiny  metallic  ones  and  easier  to  clean  out 
than  the  wooden  ones. 

Cake  Cutters 

There  is  no  reason  either  why  you  cannot  use  the  less 
expensive  tin  cake  cutters  in  their  multitudinous  de- 
signs. They  are  keen  cutting  and  light  and  very  dur- 
able. 

Galvanized 

Galvanized  wear — is  usually  steel  heated  to  a  special 
finish  of  tin.  Some  of  the  things  in  this  material  are 
most  useful  and  necessary — for  example,  the  refrigera- 
tor drain  pan,  garbage  pail  and  ash  can.  These  are 
extra  heavy  and  withstand  wear  and  jouncing. 

For  the  less  elaborate  kitchen,  the  tin  muffin  pans, 
funnels  and  pie  plates  are  useful  yet  not  as  good  as  other 
kitchen  wear  such  as  the  Aluminum  and  Enamels. 


TIN  WARE,  RUBBER  AND  PAPER        339 


Necessities  Not  Known 

The  ideal  Christmas  tree  holder  which  keeps  the  tree 
fresh  for  months  on  account  of  its  simple  reservoir  for 
water  is  really  something  well  worth  knowing  about. 
It  holds  the  tree  very  steady  and  is  japanned  in  a  dull 
green. 

For  country  or  suburban  homes  the  out-door  inciner- 
ator, a  perforated  tinned  container,  permits  the  burning 
of  rubbish  without  danger  from  blowing  cinders;  of 
course,  this  is  not  meant  to  burn  fats  and  animal  re- 
fuse. An  incinerator  (see  Chapter  XIII)  of  another 
order  is  necessary  for  this. 

There  is  no  reason  whatever,  however,  why  the  copper 
bottom  wash  boilers  whose  numbers  and  designs  are  le- 
gion should  not  be  used.  As  they  are  light  in  weight 
and  durable. 

The  galvanized  coal  scuttle,  flour  bin — japanned  or 
plain  heavy  tin,  is  not  a  pariah  even  yet. 

If  you  have  the  "tin,"  it  is  usual  for  you  to  buy 
the  better  metals.  Yet  there  are  quite  legitimate  uses  for 
tin.  There  are  some  householders  who  have  tin  ware 
left  over  from  the  past.  To  those,  however,  we  can  say 
don't  let  it  worry  you;  as  they  die  out  replace  them 
with  better,  if  you  care  to,  but  be  loyal  to  what  you  have 
used  if  they  have  served. 

No  one  recommends  tin  to-day  for  cookery  when  on  the 
market  are  ideal  cooking  utensils,  but  what  we  do  wish  to 
convey  to  you  in  this  chapter  is  that  tin  has  very  legiti- 
mate uses. 

For  example  spice,  sugar,  coffee  etc.  canisters  in 
white  enamel  tin,  brown,  black  etc.  with  gold  lines. 
These  are  not  as  autocratic  as  the  blue  and  white  china 
but  they  will  outlast  any  such  delightful  and  much  to 
be  desired  shelf  trousseau.    A  kitchen  in  white  with 


340  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

white  enameled  tin  containers  is  a  very  pretty  thing  to 
contemplate. 

Some  of  the  heavier  tin  ware  is  iron  or  steel  dipped  in 
tin,  this,  of  course,  is  very  resistant  and  enduring  and 
not  particularly  cheap. 

Agates,  enamels  etc.  are  merely  steel  and  iron  covered 
with  layers  of  composition  that  when  dry  are  made  up 
to  resist  cookery  onslaught. 

Ice-Ceeam  Freezers 

There  are  two  or  three  very  interesting  and  effective 
ice  cream  freezers  made  of  tin.  There  is  one  in  fact  so 
built  as  to  need  no  turning. 

Trays 

Tin  trays  are  invaluable  as  they  come  in  all  sizes 
and  are  exceedingly  light.  They  come  plain,  japanned 
and  some  decorated — but  any  one  with  a  sense  of  paint 
and  form  can  make  an  ordinary  tin  tray  a  thing  of  joy — 
while  for  the  most  part  the  tin  ware  houses  execrably 
decorate  the  trays!    A  word  to  the  wise! 

Rubber 

The  rubber  wear  that  is  used  in  kitchens  is  not  exten- 
sive but  what  is  used  is  indispensable. 

For  preserving,  of  course,  the  rubber  ring  to  tightly 
close  certain  jars  is  a  necessity  and  the  best  is  none 
too  good  to  buy.  Unless  you  have  the  best  here  you  are 
cheated  by  breakage. 

Rubber  gloves  for  kitchenette  and  kitchen  use  save 
and  prevent  breakage,  they  also  prevent  the  sink  be- 
coming "holey."  For  "holey"  sinks  are  horrible  to 
contemplate ! 

Some  people  like  perforated  rubber  mats  on  lino- 


TIN  WARE,  RUBBER  AND  PAPER        341 

leum  or  tiled  floors  and  on  kitchen  hallways  and  stairs. 
These  wear  for  a  long  time. 

A  few  rubber  corks  to  have  on  hand  in  the  home  often 
helps  you  out  of  a  dilemma  of  temporary  corkage. 

Rubber  brushes  for  sink  use  in  combination  with  tin 
are  useful  and  can  be  well  scoured  and  kept  in  condi- 
tion. 

Rubber  gloves  for  kitchenette  and  kitchen  use  save 
the  hands  and  are  worth  their  weight  in  radium.  If 
more  women  used  them,  the  house  work  problem  would 
be  less  like  martyrdom.  They  preserve  the  hands, 
health  as  well  as  beauty,  in  fact  could  anything  be 
"handier?" 

Rubber  is  used  for  door  steps  to  preserve  the  door 
surface  and  to  prevent  noise.  It  is  also  used  on  the  tip 
end  of  legs  of  tables  and  chairs  to  preserve  floors  and 
rugs  and  to  diminish  noise. 

This  is  about  the  full  list  of  rubber  things  for  the  house 
except,  perhaps,  the  rubber  heel  for  maids'  and  but- 
lers' shoes  and  rubber  stoppers  for  sinks. 

Paper 

The  uses  of  paper  in  the  home  are  not  so  many. 

Shelving  in  the  pantry  or  kitchen  can  be  kept  in  re- 
newed health  with  paper,  laces  of  course. 

The  bungalow,  or  motor  trip  or  picnic  can  be  well 
supplied  with  paper  and  fiber  plates. 

Rather  would  we  warn  you  against  paper  uses!  such 
as  wrapping  up  your  ice  to  preserve  it,  to  spoil  food, 
wrapping  up  your  food  stuffs  in  paper  in  refrigerator, 
greasing  muMn  pan  with  paper  for  which  you  should 
use  a  brush. 

Sometimes,  however,  a  piece  of  paper  will  clean  off  the 
top  of  the  stove  very  efficiently,  yet  even  here  a  brush 
would  be  better. 


342  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Clean  brown  paper  to  absorb  French  frys  (potato)  is 
quite  indispensable. 

The  paper  napkin  has  made  its  place  even  in  the 
homes  of  wealth. 

Wax  paper  is  a  delight  to  wrap  up  sandwiches  and 
keep  bread  stuffs  and  cake  fresh. 

Paper  lining  for  drawers,  of  course,  is  necessary. 

The  pretty  paper  lace  doily  for  under  finger  bowls, 
cake  and  bread,  these  are  delightfully  pretty  and  save 
the  Unen,  the  laundress  and  the  laundry  list. 

Chop  Papers 

Paper  "golf  stockings"  for  chop  bones,  poultry  legs 
etc.  are  decorative. 

Charlotte  Russe 

Vegetables  and  charlotte  russe  are  often,  too,  served 
in  the  paper  cup. 

Which,  by  the  way  reminds  me  that  in  large  kit- 
chens the  paper  cup  is  indispensable. 

In  this  place  it  would  be  well  to  say  that  a  pad — a 
writing  pad — should  be  in  every  kitchen  for  multitudi- 
nous listings  and  memos.  No  kitchen  is  a  perfect  one 
that  isn  't ' '  padded. ' '    In  fact  it  is  a  sell  if  it  isn  't ! 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII 
Come  Out  Of  The  Parlor 

IF  I  were  a  cook  (of  course,  being  a  democrat,  I  aspire 
to  no  such  plutocratic  eminence,  but  were  I  a  cook), 
I  should  want  to  have  for  my  use  a  number  of  culinary 
accessories  to  make  life  more  rosy,  more  serene  and  even 
more  delightful  than  it  naturally  must  be. 

If  I  were  even  a  wife,  I  should  welcome  gifts  that 
would  make  the  work  I  had  to  do  in  the  kitchen  more 
saving  in  time,  effort  and  labor. 

But  being  neither  of  these,  and  therefore,  free  to  roam 
through  manufactories,  laboratories,  and  shops,  I  will 
suggest  from  the  myriads  of  fascinating  kitchen  articles 
and  appliances  some  that  will  make  captivating  and  use- 
ful gifts.  When  you  once  have  made  a  present  of  any  of 
them  you  will  automatically  become  entablatured  in  the 
recipient's  memory,  and  maybe  you  will  be  saved  the 
expense  of  many  a  meal ! 

If  I  were  that  cook — I  would  hanker  after  the  ice  pick 
that  doesn't  slide — the  spring  pick  (25  to  35  cents). 
You  just  jab  it  into  the  ice  and  slide  the  handle  up  and 
down,  and  you  waste  neither  ice,  food,  nor  temper  in  the 
process.     It  is  a  gem  of  comfort. 

The  Small  Equipment 

The  cream  bag,  with  all  the  alluring  little  tubes  for 
making  fascinating  designs  on  the  birthday  or  Christ- 
mas cake,  saves  the  cook  time  in  rigging  up  paper  tubes 
for  spreading  cream  and  sugar. 

If  it  were  only  to  obviate  the  unpatriotic  crv  against 

343 


344  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

our  thick  bread  in  comparison  to  the  British  gossamer 
slice,  it  would  ease  one's  life  to  have  some  one  of  the 
bread  slicers  on  the  American  market  which  cost  very 
little.     (About  $4.  ^) 

Nothing  saves  more  energy  than  the  food  chopper 
(from  $2  up),  the  nut-cracker  (from  $1  up),  the  cherry 
stoner  (75  cents  up).  These  processes  of  stoning,  chop- 
ping and  taking  out  nuts  whole  are  all  tedious  by  hand. 

The  coffee  mill,  too,  is  a  pleasure,  the  kind  that  has 
the  glass  top  to  keep  you  cognizant  of  how  much  work 
there  is  before  you.  Some  of  these  screw  on  the  wall 
and  are  about  $1.35  and  upwards.  The  beef  press  ($1.50 
to  $5)  (See  Chapter  on  electric  mixing  units)  for 
invalid  or  baby  is  also  a  boon. 

The  prices  of  all  these  things  are  very  low  as  prices 
go  these  days.  In  some  of  the  realms,  however,  the 
prices  vary  so  from  day  to  day  that  one  is  afraid  to 
mention  them.  But,  whatever  the  prices  are,  the  de- 
vices are  worth  the  cost  in  helpfulness  and  service.  And, 
strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  kitchen  denizen,  imperial 
though  she  be,  rarely  dowers  herself  with  the  time-sav- 
ing, step-saving  apparatus. 

Scales  and  Sharpeners 

Kitchen  scales,  good  ones,  are  really  indispensable 
to  the  careful  housekeeper.  The  balance  type  is  the  most 
accurate  and  costs  from  $8  up.  Very  often  you  can 
test  your  purchases  and  if  under  weight  you  can  scold 
the  grocer  (what  fun!)  and  if  over  weight — but  what's 
the  good  of  dream  stuff  here  ?  The  hanging  spring  scale 
is  accurate  and  costs  from  $2.50  up.  (See  Chapter 
XL  on  Measures.) 

1  All  prices  here  are  merely  approximate.  By  the  time  this 
book  reaches  you  the  prices  will  be  much  lower,  we  hope! 


COME  OUT  OF  THE  PARLOR  345 

* '  Oh,  for  a  sharp  knife ! "  A  feminine  and  hopeless 
cry  often  .  .  .  but  the  earburundum  knife  sharpener 
(30  to  50  cents)  would  obviate  the  humiliation  and  let 
the  lady  cut  a  big  swathe  with  her  menfolk — if  they 
found  sharp  carving  knives  set  before  them.  There  are 
many  types  of  sharpeners  on  the  market.  Some  of 
them,  of  course,  are  quite  expensive.  Buy  the  best  in 
this  case  as  in  every  other  case.  The  best  is  an  invest- 
ment ;  less  than  the  best  is  an  expenditure. 

Nothing  can  cut  down  the  antagonism  between  time 
and  service  like  vegetable  slicers.  They  slice  any  veg- 
etable and  cost  about  $2.50  up.  Do  you  realize  what 
such  a  donation  could  mean?  Could  any  little  fluffy- 
ruffle  pincushion  mean  so  much  to  anybody,  be  she  cook 
or  pauper? 

If  you  want  to  give  something  in  the  realm  of  a  card 
for  Easter,  Christmas  or  New  Year,  or  some  trifle  in  the 
case  of  another  sort  of  anniversary,  why  not  send  some 
of  the  silencers  for  kitchen  chair  and  table  legs  at  10 
cents  a  set  ?  Or  the  permanent  gas  lighters  for  25  cents. 
They  are  convenient  and  amusing. 

Owning  a  rotary  fruit  parer  ($1.50  up)  saves  energy 
and  caters  to  your  sense  of  form,  as  the  fruit  can  be 
served  iinangular  and  with  little  waste,  and  besides, 
the  cook's  imperial  temper  is  not  stirred. 

Table  Bells  and  Griddles 

Table  bells  of  sweet  tintinabulation  save  the  nerves. 
At  any  rate  there  is  poetry  in  such  a  gift,  and  one  can 
spend  from  $1.50  to  any  price  at  all  on  these  romantic 
things,  as  they  also  come  in  the  precious  metals. 

There  may  be  many  domiologists  with  doubts  about 
cake,  bread  and  mayonnaise  mixers,  but  if  you  ever 
gave  any  of  these  articles  to  a  household,  you  would 
go  down  into  history  as  a  benefactor.    I  wonder  often 


346  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

why  so  many  of  us  forget  that  such  gifts  are  really  gold 
mines. 

No  one  likes  to  do  unnecessary  cleaning  and  scraping 
of  utensils,  so  the  aluminum  waffle  and  griddle  are 
presents  of  unusual  pleasure-giving  potentialities.  The 
prices  here  are  prone  to  fluctuation  but  there  are  always 
sizes  to  be  had  around  $4,50.  The  electric  ones  cost 
three  or  four  times  as  much. 

If  you  would  give  a  regal  gift  to  the  Monarch  of 
Culinaria,  the  kitchen  cabinet  is  the  thing.  It  is  com- 
pact little  kitchen  "with  everything  in  it  but  the  kitchen 
stove,"  and  fills  the  need  of  the  worker  in  the  badly 
planned  and  equipped  city  kitchen  and  the  unplanned 
kitchen  out  of  town. 

Although  not  exclusively  a  kitchen  gift,  the  vacuum 
cleaner  connot  be  excelled  as  a  present.  Once  bestowed 
you  are  looked  upon  as  a  fairy  god-parent.  Why  not 
give  one  for  a  wedding  present  sometime?  The  fire- 
less  cookers  and  refrigerators  would  come  under  this 
classification  too,  but  they  vary  in  price  too  much  to 
record  here. 

Electric  Dishwashers  and  Stoves 

If  there  be  a  regent  and  not  a  cook  in  your  kitchen, 
she  will  welcome  with  tired  arms  the  electric  dishwasher, 
the  boon  to  the  woman  doing  her  own  work.  It  costs 
about  $150.  or  thereabouts  and  makes  housework  a 
game  rather  than  drudgery.  Haven't  you  often  heard 
the  young  wife  say:  "I  wouldn't  mind  house  work  at 
all  if  it  weren't  for  the  dishwashing." 

Then  there  is  the  magic — ^yes,  magic — electric  stove 
family!  There  isn't  time  enough  left  to  tell  of  some 
of  their  wonder  workings.  If  you  gave  one  of  these 
(costing  about  $180),  you  would  be  giving  at  the  same 
time  money,  time-to-herself,  and  the  rest  cure.     Some 


COME  OUT  OF  THE  PARLOR     347 

of  these  stoves  automatically  cook  and  stop  their  cook- 
ing while  you  are  out  or  sleeping,  save  money  because 
they  make  cheap  cuts  of  meat  taste  like  expensive  cuts, 
act  as  tireless  cookers  and  refrigerators  and  ...  I 
will  leave  the  rest  to  your  investigation. 

Of  course,  there  are  the  electric  laundry  appliances, 
casseroles,  ice-cream  freezers  which  must  be  turned 
and  which  must  not  be  turned,  convenient  egg-heaters, 
buifers,  kitchenette  articles,  and  countless  other  things 
in  the  line  of  percolators,  etc.,  which  are  obvious  and 
need  no  mind-jerking  from  us. 

All  these  things  are  gifts  of  value,  tremendous  helps 
to  the  cook  and  ought  to  be  boons  to  the  seeker  for  some- 
thing to  give. 

Be  elastic !  Come  out  of  the  parlor  and  go  into  the 
kitchen  for  a  new  field  of  giving. 

Gifts  raise  the  value  of  things  and  the  value  of  culi- 
nary pursuits  need  raising. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX 

Latest  Inventions 

THERE  may  be  nothing  new  under  the  sun  but  there 
is  always  something  inviting  under  the  roofs  of 
our  manufactories,  in  these  labor,  time  and  energy  spar- 
ing days.  Not  to  keep  abreast  of  the  news  is  per- 
haps to  lose  at  least  a  week  out  of  your  year  in  time 
and  a  few  tons  of  actual  effort. 

There  is  an  ideal  mixer  on  the  market  which  attacks 
and  synthesizes  a  mayonnaise,  cream  or  eggs,  mixes 
cakes,  makes  bread  of  its  ingredients,  and  all  in  all  can 
almost  be  hitched  to  the  stars  and  change  the  rotations 
of  the  solar  system,  extravagantly  speaking.  It  is 
modeled  on  a  giant  mixer  fomerly  used  in  hotels  and 
soda  fountains  but  now  adapted  to  home  use.  Further- 
more, it  is  prepared  to  annihilate  meats,  nuts  and  fruits. 
It  is  a  complete  power  unit  and  worked  by  electricity. 

Multum  in  parvo — here  you  have  it.  A  little  washing 
machine  that  can  be  a  sweet  pal  of  the  portable  type- 
writer— less  its  weight,  not  requiring,  though,  either 
ink  or  hand  labor.  This  tiny  wooden  washer  is  placed 
under  a  water  faucet  and  the  weakest  stream  of  water 
revolves  its  little  cylinder  so  that  you  can  wash  two  or 
three  shirtwaists  and  six  hankies  and  seven  towels  in 
one  operation  while  you  sit  and  think  how  lucky  you  are. 
Fancy  this  little  fairy  in  a  hotel  room,  in  the  country, 
where  the  wash  ladies  are  obsolete  and  your  nurse  won 't 
wash — or  where  you  don't  want  to  trust  your  trousseau 
to  any  laundry  resident  in  vour  rural  haunt.    And  it  is 

348 


LATEST  INVENTIONS  349 

invaluable  for  the  baby's  wash — because  the  baby  is  no 
respecter  of  labor  and  needs  much  rehabilitation. 

It  fits  on  any  wash-stand,  is  simply  made,  easily 
cleaned  ires  bon  marche.  So  your  parlor,  bedroom 
and  bathroom  need  not  be  a  limitation  to  your  ward- 
robe's perfection. 

How  many  times  have  you  toasted  bread  at  your  morn- 
ing meal — the  meal  at  which  most  of  us  are  poorly  ad- 
justed? How  many  times  have  we  nearly  (?)  sworn 
because  your  magic  electric  toaster  only  did  the  trick 
on  one  side  of  the  bread  ?  Now — there  has  been  born  a 
toaster  which,  when  one  side  of  the  toast  is  done,  *  *  turns 
the  other  cheek"  (by  a  pat  of  one's  finger  on  a  lever) 
and  in  most  traditionally  ethical  fashion,  so  that  you 
have  self-turned  toast,  well  cooked,  waiting  for  you — 
disgruntled  or  radiant.  It's  a  nice  thought — to  have 
toast  without  blackened  fingers  or  disintegrated  char- 
acter. 

Every  sick  room  at  some  time  or  another  needs,  be- 
sides air,  a  gentle  deodorant.  In  accordance  with  elec- 
tricity's forward  march  an  electric  incense  burner  can 
be  bought  which  though  not  in  the  traditional  mode  is 
very  much  to  the  manner  of  to-day. 

Whether  this  will  appeal  to  our  Greenwich  Village 
friends  who  espouse  with  all  their  modernity  archaic 
methods,  we  cannot  tell — yet  would  we  suggest  this 
device  whether  they  be  incensed  or  not. 

Soon  there  will  be  on  the  market  a  wee  electric  wash- 
ette — a  portable  six  shirtwaist  or  twelve  soxer  which 
washes  clothes  and  will  spare  the  fare  on  silk  hose  or 
lingerie.  Most  city  and  country  dwellings  have  elec- 
tricity and  in  a  few  months  this  vital  little  machine 
will  be  yours  for  the  paying. 

Bathrooms  to-day  without  the  shower  would  be  like 
the  kiss  to  the  strange  maiden  who  liked  it  not,  were  her 


350  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

lover  unmustachioed.  In  order  to  have  a  faultless 
shower — for  they  are  often  built  haphazardly  so  that 
they  leak,  spatter,  burn  and  scatter — a  standardized 
shower  has  been  put  on  the  market  which,  when  ordered 
by  the  architect,  can  be  put  into  any  bathroom.  It  can 
be  in  curved  or  square  design  and  in  almost  any  size. 
After  installation  it  can  be  finished  in  paint,  marble, 
tile  or  in  whatever  uniform  your  bathroom  mobilized. 
The  fixtures  are  the  most  modern,  completely  covering 
the  bather  with  sprays  enticing  and  affording  thorough 
refreshment. 

Practically  speaking,  the  electric  washing  machine  in 
which  boiling  water  is  put  is  a  perfect  instrument. 
Yet  we  can  see  some  instances  where  the  self -gas-heated 
electric  washer  might  be  a  great  convenience  if  the 
clothes  are  not  permitted  to  have  the  dirt  boiled  in  and 
the  gas  jets  left  burning  beneath  them.  To-day,  to 
meet  the  demand  of  a  self-heating  washer,  there  are  a 
few  being  put  on  the  market. 

Along  the  Line  of  washing  machines  is  a  "filler" 
which  acts  promptly  and  swiftly  so  that  the  washing 
machine  is  filled  and  emptied  of  water  with  a  minimum 
effort.  There  are  two  or  three  of  these  assistants  on 
the  market — two  of  which  are  good  but  one  of  which 
we  think  better.     They  can  be  tried  before  purchasing. 

Electrified  Tables 

Furniture  is  furniture.  That  seems  rational — it  has 
beauty  but  not  life.  Yet  in  the  Middle  Edison  Period 
in  which  we  live,  furniture  arterially  supplied  with 
electric  current  has  come  to  pass.  Table  tipping  has 
gone  out,  but  electrified  tea  tables  have  come  in.  There 
is  no  limit  to  what  the  electrified  tea  table  might  not 
be,  or  might  not  contain.  Tea,  toast,  lectures  or 
music  fill  its  usual  shallow  depths.     But  now  a  veri- 


LATEST  INVENTIONS  351 

table  companion  to  man — not  only  a  pal  but  an  advisor. 
Yet  you  must  be  careful  lest  the  amiable  invention  ousts 
the  charm  of  tea  itself.  But  all  new  inventions  when 
they  seem  the  most  perilous  are  the  most  useful.  Think 
of  the  charms  of  the  electrified  toilet  table — shaving- 
water  hot,  curling  irons  ready,  lights  in  perfect  range. 
It  is  beyond  imagination  lovely.  Then  think  of  the  elec- 
trified bed!     It  is  too — Enough! 

Overlooking  the  fact  that  an  ironing  board  and  iron 
are  prohibited  in  many  hotels,  they  seem  to  arrive  in 
other  guises.  A  folding  contraption  delightfully  like  a 
little  box  has  been  made  and  charmingly  cretonned, 
which  is  itself  the  telescopic  board  and  inside  of  whose 
folds  repose  the  leveling  iron,  electric  connections,  etc. 

Sleeping  Accomodations 

Gunpowder  can  be  made  out  of  the  air,  but  that 
isn't  what  we  are  looking  for — after  all  it's  a  construc- 
tive use  we  give  it — ^breathing  and  health.  Of  late, 
people  are  longing  for  health — see  the  new  religious 
sects.  So  the  home  longs  for  it,  and  devices  are  con- 
tinually being  made  to  give  the  home  more  air  and 
better.  An  automatic  device  to  make  rooms  breathe  is 
now  a  practical  thing.  It  looks  like  a  little  box  of 
copper  wire  on  one  side,  open  on  the  other  and  fitted 
with  little  shutters  so  that  the  warm  air  escapes  and 
the  cool  fresh  air  is  imprisoned  in  the  room.  It  is 
put  on  outside  the  window  sash  and  without  draft 
you  breathe  clean,  fresh  morning  air. 

You  can  always  supply  a  bed  to  the  new-comer,  or 
make  your  living  room  into  a  more  livable  and  sleeping 
one  by  the  use  of  the  new  beds  housed  behind  a  small 
door  in  the  wall  which  swing  easily  to  position  at  night. 
The  small  door  can  be  near  the  porch,  so  the  sleeping 
porch  by  day  can  be  free  of  bedding  and  be  an  upper 


352  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

porch  only.  Furthermore,  if  the  door  be  placed  rightly, 
the  bed  can  be  swung  to  the  porch  or  to  the  room. 
Rainy  nights  or  cyclonic  you  could  sleep  indoors.  It  is 
not  a  folding  bed  with  that  device's  many  drawbacks. 
Of  course  this  is  more  practically  installed  when  the 
house  is  built,  yet  it  can  successfully  be  put  in  after- 
ward. Its  makers  also  offer  a  concealed  ironing  board — 
behind  closed  doors — which  for  a  limited  home  is  a 
comfort. 

Should  your  home  not  have  enough  electric  connec- 
tions which,  of  course,  it  should  have— you  can  now  get 
electric  sockets  with  two  or  three  plug  extensions. 
This  can  double  your  electric  elasticity.  For  example, 
a  lamp  and  an  electric  piano  player  can  get  their  nutri- 
tion from  one  base  plug — and  you  can  put  two  bulbs  in 
one  plug.  A  makeshift,  of  course,  but  it  doesn't  look 
like  one ;  and  if  your  home  was  built  in  the  pre-electric 
era  you  can  keep  up  with  the  times  with  this  device. 

Lamps  seem  to-day  to  be  one  of  the  newer  adjust- 
abilities. A  very  useful  lamp  to  fix  on  the  piano  to  light 
the  eye  of  the  musical  page  will  be  a  real  convenience 
to  the  home  in  which  the  piano  has  to  be  in  the  living 
room.  The  whole  room  can  be  dark  except  for  this  illu- 
mination of  the  music  pages — the  audience  can  sit  in 
darkness  and  have  their  comfort  evolve  from  the  lighted 
region.  Here  is  a  time  when  from  sitting  in  darkness, 
light,  comfort  and  good  deeds  may  emerge.  This  lamp 
can  be  had  in  all  wood  finishes  and  can  be  placed  on  beds 
or  chairs  if  wanted  in  these  ways. 

Not  snubbing  other  devices  at  all,  we  must  lump  a  few 
suggestions  in  electric  apparatus.  For  example,  the 
hair  dryers,  giving  cold  and  hot  air,  the  violet  ray  ma- 
chines, the  vibrator — all  three  made  in  convenient  size 
and  light  weight.  With  these  three  things  your  bou- 
doir is  much  more  complete. 


LATEST  INVENTIONS  353 

Yesterday,  the  silence  cloth  of  cloth  was  all  we  had  to 
put  under  your  tablecloth.  To-day  asbestos  in  all  its 
fire  impenetrability  is  to  be  had  in  comfortable  sheets 
for  table  use — to  protect  the  polished  surface  in  entirety 
and  enrich  the  tablecloth.  You  have  known  the  mats 
in  asbestos — now  you  have  the  table  rug. 

Jars  of  pottery  can  be  rapidly  turned  into  electric 
lamps  by  a  new  device  made  to  fit  down  in  and  raise 
above  a  lamp  shade,  bulb  and  complete  paraphernalia. 
Think  of  the  good  uses  some  old  wedding  presents  can  be 
put  to !  This  device  comes  in  sizes  to  fit  jars  with  3",  4", 
5",  or  6"  openings  at  the  top. 

Very  nearly  meeting  the  constant  question :  "Do  you 
know  of  an  instantaneous  heater?"  comes  the  electric 
water  heater  which  when  attached  to  your  faucet  gives 
instantaneous,  exceedingly  hot  water.  It  is  a  small 
thing  not  more  than  8"  high  and  will  be  a  boon  of  boons 
when  absolutely  perfect. 

During  the  summer,  the  attic  gets  overheated  and 
makes  itself  an  impossible  place  for  sleeping.  This 
need  not  be,  as  there  is  a  material  that  comes  in  sheets  to 
line  the  walls  and  ceiling.  For  cellars  the  warmth  is 
kept  in;  for  attics  the  heat  is  kept  out.  Could  there 
be  anything  more  simple  and  adaptable. 

To  close  this  chapter  safely  we  can  do  no  more  than 
suggest  a  ready-made  fence!  It  has  been  on  the  mar- 
ket years — for  the  pastures — but  is  now  being  intro- 
duced for  the  garden  use  of  people  who  don't  want  to 
or  can't  make  a  new  fence.  It  is  delightful — of  rough 
hewn  wood,  4,  5,  or  6  bars,  posted  and  diagonalled. 
For  a  rambling  place  for  roses  and  vines  it  has  no 
equal  and  to  be  able  to  buy  fences  by  the  yard  for  the 
yard  is  veritably  both  joy  and  comfort  brought  to  your 
very  doors. 


CHAPTER  XL 

Measure  for  Measure 

* '  A  PINT 'S  a  pound  the  year  around, ' '  said  a  little 
-  l\  old  lady  dealing  out  some  lead  shot,  to  a  young 
man  gunner,  who  received  a  pint  of  shot  for  his  pound 
and  went  off  thinking  he  had  begun  his  hunt  with  au- 
gury well  imposed!  ** What's  lighter,  a  pound  of  feath- 
ers or  a  pound  of  lead  ? ' '  These  two  idea  rousers  never 
would  have  been  born  were  it  not  for  the  average  igno- 
rance and  negligence  of  weights  and  measures  in  the 
average  time-bound  home.  True  it  is,  if  we  are  time-run 
we  certainly  are  inaccurately  measured  and  weighed,  es- 
pecially in  our  kitchens — where  over-doses  may  injure, 
where  under-doses  and  over-doses  may  ruin  recipes ! 

There  is  really  no  need  for  this — we  have  had  careful 
training  in  our  youth  with  "tables."  Recall  herewith 
when  absolutely  perfect. 

Avoirdupois 

27.3  grains    equal  1  dram  (dr) 
16     drams        "     1  ounce  (oz.) 
16     ounces        **     1  pounds  (lb.) 
100     pounds      **     1  hundred  weight  (cwt.) 

Dry  Measure 

2     pints    equal    1  quart  (qt.) 
8     quarts      "       1  peck 
4     pecks        "       1  bushel 
105     dry  qts.    *'       1  bbl. — vegetables  etc. 

354 


MEASURE  FOR  MEASURE      355 

Liquid  Measure 

4     gills      equal  1    pint 

2      pints  "  1  quart 

4     quarts         "  1  gallon 

31 1/2  gals.  "  1  bbl. 

Linear  Measure 

12   inches    equal  1  foot 
3    feet  "      1  yard 

5  %  yards     '  *      1  rod 
320    rods  "      1  mile]    not  quite  indoors 

1760   yards        ''      1  mile  [  but  useful  to  know 
5280   feet  "      1  mile  J 

Square  Measure 

144     sq.  inches  equal  1  sq.  foot 

9      "  feet         *'      1    "    yard 

30 1^  "  yards      "      1    "    rod 

160       "  rods       ''      1   acre 

These  are  the  classics  over  which  we  of  the  ancient 
regime  trembled  but  which,  in  the  new  regime,  youth 
imbibes  in  unwitting  doses  and  grows  in  spite  of 
itself  into  engineers  and  surveyors! 

Yet  for  you  and  me  there  are  still  tables  that  may  be 
of  use  and  L.  Ray  Balderston  in  her  Housewifery 
has  published  one  which  is  worthy  of  quoting : — 

4  saltspoonfuls  equal  1  teaspoonful 

3  teaspoonfuls  **  1  tablespoonful 
16  tablespoonfuls            "                1  cupful 

2  gills  "  1  cupful 

2  cupfuls  "  1  pint 

1  cup  **  8  fluid  ounces 

32  tablespoonfuls  "  1  pound  of  butter 

2  cups  of  butter  "  1      "       " 

4  "       •'     flour  "  1      **       "      flour 


356  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

2      cups  of  sugar      equal         1  pound  of  sugar 
5        **      "  coffee        ''  1      "       '*  coffee 

1%    '*      "  rice  "  1      "       "  rice 

2%    "      '*  oatmeal     *'  i      a       a  oatmeal 

2%     **      *'  cornmeal  '*  1      *'       "  cornmeal 

1  cup  of  liquid  to  3  cups  of  flour  equal  a  dough 
1    **     **       *'        '*  2    "       ''     "       "  thick  batter 
1    "     "       "        "  1  cup  of  flour  equal  a  thin  " 
To  neutralize 
2  teaspoonfuls  of  soda  to  1  pint  of  sour  milk 
1  teaspoonful    **     "     *'  1  cup  of  molasses 
/^        *  *  "  cream  of  tartar  and  one  teaspoonful 

of  soda   equal   2   teaspoonfuls   of   ''home   brew** 
baking  powder. 
But  what  of  all  this  if  we  use  a  tea  cup  one  time, 
a  coffee  cup  at  another  for  measuring,  a  dessert  spoon 
one  time,  teaspoon  another  etc? 

There  is  but  one  way  to  take  the  guess  out  of  home 
cookery  and  that  is  have  a  set  of  approved  scales,  dry 
and  wet  measures. 

A  salt-spoon  is  a  salt-spoon,  even  as  a  rake  is  a  rake 
and  not  a  hoe — a  teaspoon  has  a  standard  size  even  as 
a  peck  is  a  peck  and  a  quart  is  a  quart.  Those  things 
have  governmental  regulation — and  you  should,  of  course 
profit  by  them. 

In  some  communities  you  can  buy  weights  and 
measures  sealed  with  government  approval.  When 
possible  this  is  a  good  thing.  Always  find  out,  how- 
ever, before  buying  whether  they  have  the  sanction  of 
the  Standard  Bureau  in  Washington.  Or  what  your 
community's  regulation  may  be. 

Suppose  you  asked  for  a  yard  of  ribbon  in  one  shop 
and  got  short  measure?  You  would  soon  detect  it. 
Yet  daily  and  hourly  you  accept  a  peck  of  "this"  or  a 
quart  of  "that"  and  never  measure  it  when  you  get 
it  home. 


MEASURE  FOR  MEASURE      357 

Home  telephoning  for  groceries  and  meats  have  per- 
mitted more  short  selling  than  Wall  Street  ever  dreamed 
of! 

Every  kitchen  should  possess  the  series  of  spoons — 
attached  to  one  pivot.  This  set  includes:  salt  spoon 
(1/4  teaspoon),  1  teaspoon,  y^.  teaspoon,  a  metal  (alu- 
minum preferred)  measuring  cup  with  designations  of 
%,  Vs,  %,  V2,  ^/4>  a  glass  cup  divided  into  quarter  cups 
for  high  convenience. 

The  glass  graduate  with  spout,  measuring  a  pint  or 
a  quart  divided  into  easily  read  divisions  is  a  joy  in  any 
kitchen. 

Then  it  is  easy  to  have  a  dry  measure  such  as  a  quart 
wooden  container — to  measure  things  as  they  come  from 
the  grocer. 

Scales  and  Measures 

Scales  must  be  like  Caesar's  wife  "above  suspicion** 
— tested  by  local  authorities  for  accuracy  and  worth  the 
understanding  that  you  will  have  them  officially  tested 
and  "blessed"  and  sealed  by  the  "Sealer." 

There  are  many  kinds  of  scales — avoid  the  kind  which 
has  a  spring  under  the  pan  as  the  spring  unless  a  very 
expensive  one  gets  out  of  order.  The  hanging  pan 
spring  scale  is  generally  good  with  per  10  to  20  lbs.  ca- 
pacity. It  registers  the  weight  automatically  on  the 
pan.  The  folding  scale  of  the  steelyard  type  is  fairly 
accurate  at  a  reasonable  outlay  and  folds  against  a  wall 
and  is  out  of  the  way  if  not  weigh.  The  counter  beam 
or  balance  scale  is  most  accurate  if  you  have  table  space 
and  promise  to  remember  where  you  put  the  weights. 
It  requires  care  as  you  have  to  do  the  marking  by  hand 
and  no  dial  tells  you  the  story.  They  are  more  ex- 
pensive but  more  accurate.  For  all  purposes  the  scale 
should  be  able  to  record  from  1  lb.  to  10  up  to  30  lbs. 


358  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Liquid  Measure 

The  quota  here  can  comfortably  be :  1  quart  measure, 
1  pint,  and  1/2  pint — a  4  ounce  graduate  sub-divided  to 
1  dram  or  less.  When  buying  those  they  should  be 
cylindrical  or  conical  with  top  diameter  smaller  than 
bottom  diameter.  These  are  purchasable  in  metal, 
enamel  ware,  etc.  Must  be  made  to  wear ;  seamless  and 
easily  cleaned.  The  markings  on  these  should  be  clear 
enough  to  avoid  the  gawky  game  of  "Guess." 

To  avoid  error  in  reading  cone-shaped  graduate,  you 
will  see  that  the  subdivisions  are  more  at  base  than  at 
the  top.  "A  4:  ounce  graduate  may  be  subdivided  to 
■^  dram  for  each  2  drams,  to  1  dram  for  the  next  6 
drams,  to  2  drams  for  the  remaining  capacity  up  to  2 
ounces  and  to  4  drams,  or  half  an  ounce  for  the  interval 
between  2  and  4  ounces.  In  filling  or  reading,  it  should 
be  held  level  and  readings  made  at  the  main  surface  of 
liquid.  Disregard  the  creeping  up  of  the  liquid  on 
the  width  of  glass."  (This  is  governmental  bulletin 
advice.) 

Dry  Measure 
Here  the  quota  can  be  a  nest  of  measures  from  ^^ 
bushel  to  1  quart.  These  measures  should  be  of  metal 
or  well  varnished  wood  bound  by  a  metal  or  some  sort 
of  band  on  top.  Cylindrical  here  is  the  best  style.  If 
conical  have  them  with  their  tops  10%  or  %o  larger 
than  bottom  diameter. 


your  help : 

Diameters  of 

1/2 

bushel  should  be  13%  inc 

1 

peck          ' ' 

"    107/8      " 

V2 

ii                   a 

''       8I/2      " 

2 

quarts       ** 

"     6%    - 

1 

quart        *  * 

-  53/8  " 

1 

pint          *  * 

"     4        ♦* 

MEASURE  FOR  MEASURE       359 


Length  Measure 

How  many  a  step  has  been  wasted  looking  for  a  yard 
measure,  etc.  Why  not  have  a  measuring  corner  in  the 
kitchen  and  add  to  it  1  yard  measure  or  a  tape  3  to  6 
feet  long?  Isn't  that  easy  enough?  A  yard  stick  of 
course  should  be  of  well  measured  wood  plus  metallic 
ends  or  all  of  metal.  It  is  most  convenient  if  sub-di- 
vided not  only  into  feet,  inches  and  fractions,  but  into 
fractions  of  a  yard.  The  more  fractions  really  the  less 
fractious  will  be  your  measurements. 

Preserving  etc. 

For  testing  accurately  water  densities,  hydrometers 
are  used.  If  in  your  community  you  intend  to  do  a 
lot  of  preserving  or  candy  making,  even  in  your  own 
home  the  saccharimeter  (a  kind  of  hydrometer)  will 
take  the  guess  work  out  of  the  necessary  thickness  of  a 
syrup's  density.  This  is  a  short  weighted  spindle 
graduated  from  0-70.  When  placed  in  water,  the  spindle 
rests  on  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  and  the  reading  at 
the  surface  is  zero.  As  the  density  is  increased,  the 
spindle  rises  until  when  the  solution  is  saturated  with 
sugar  at  the  temperature  indicated — the  reading  is 
100.  This  is  an  inexpensive  one,  another  type  mercury 
weighted  is  more  expensive  and  more  accurate.  The 
vessel  must  be  same  depth  as  saccharimeter.  A  narrow 
vessel  is  best,  so  if  you  are  doing  much  preserving  a 
250  cubic  centimeter  glass  cylinder  or  a  brass  saccha- 
rimeter cup  is  the  "easiest  way."  Buy  the  cylinder 
and  thermometer  with  hydrometer.  Temperature 
effect  densities ;  with  the  three  tools  you  are  sure. 


360  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Thermometers 

Thermometers  are  useful  things,  if  they  are  accurate 
and  as  nearly  unbreakable  as  possible.  There  are  a 
few  good  ones  on  the  market. 

"We  cannot  advocate  the  oven-door  thermometer  as 
there  is  hardly  one  which  can  stand  the  onslaught  of 
banging  and  remain  in  on  its  accurate  pinnacle ! 

Many  a  good  stove  and  many  a  bad  one  have  inveigled 
purchasers  because  of  their  neat  little  thermometer  on 
their  oven  doors.  They  work  all  well  and  good  for  a 
while  but  you  know  a  thermometer  is  a  *  *  dainty ' '  instru- 
ment and  must  be  kept  well  to  keep  well.  However, 
there  are  many  good  thermometers  built  for  pretty 
rough  use — rough  as  any  good  instrument  may  be 
treated,  which  of  course  should  never  he  rough. 

The  home  could  really  afford  the  bath  thermometer,  the 
house  thermometer,  the  kitchen  and  last  and  least  the 
clinical  thermometer,  but  the  kitchen  thermometer  takes 
the  guess  work  out  of  ovens'  heat  and  prevents  the 
"Fall  of  Doughs"  a  catastrophe  like  unto  few  in  awful- 
ness!  It  does  away  with  thrusting  one's  hand  in  an 
oven  to  find  out  through  our  uncertain  senses  how  hot 
is  the  oven,  and  often  prevents  a  well  burned  finger, 
tongue  when  tasting  or  whole  body  when  carelessness 
creeps  in. 

The  thermometer  is  no  half  measure!  It  is  a  real 
necessity — it  conquers  feelings  and  tells  the  truth.  If 
we  are  slaves  to  time  in  this  world,  why  not  switch  our 
allegiance  to  the  thermometer!  Then  with  thermostats 
our  rooms  will  be  habitable  because  they  have  the 
right  degree  of  heat,  not  because  one  feels  it  too  hot 
and  another  feels  it  too  cool,  and  too  our  food  will  not 
be  wasted  by  under  cooking  or  over  cooking. 


MEASURE  FOR  MEASURE       361 

Buy  only  the  best  thermometers — others  add  girth  to 
the  junk-pile — and  here  we  must  practice  girth  control 
with  all  our  vigor.  Other  thermometers  useful  at  home 
are  for  incubator,  deep  fat  frying,  refrigerator,  pasteur- 
izing milk  etc. 

Some  Precautions 

Quantity  as  well  as  quality  is  necessary  in  house- 
hold economy.  For  this  reason,  it  is  well  to  consider 
a  few  precautions  and  as  there  are  a  few  confusing 
things  in  even  our  "tables"  it  is  best  to  drive  our- 
selves up  to  them  like  a  timid  horse  is  lead  to  face  the 
terror  that  causes  him  to  shy  and  free  himself  from 
terror. 

The  avoirdupois  pound  is  larger  than  the  Troy  or 
apothecaries  pound — avoirdupois  is  7000  grains  and  the 
latter  is  5760.  But  the  troy  or  apothecaries'  ounce  is 
larger  than  the  avoirdupois  ounce.  Troy  and  apothe- 
caries' weight  differ  in  the  division  of  drams,  scruples 
and  grains  (apothecaries'). 

Apothecaries'  Weight 
20  grains  equal        1  scruple 

8  scruple    "  1  dram 

8  drams      "  1  ounce 

12  ounces      "  1  pound 

Troy  Weight 
24  grains  equal       1  pennyweight 

20  penny  wgt.       "  1  ounce 

12  ounces  "  1  pound    (Troy) 

In  purchasing  drugs  and  chemicals  for  the  home, 
you  may  need  to  know  these  differences.  Avoirdupois 
system  should  be  used  generally  in  bulk  buying.  But 
unless  stiff  regulations  exist  in  your  vicinity  the  apothe- 


362  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

cary  is  prone  to  seV  all  by  the  apothecary  system.  Troy 
weight  is  used  by  precious  metal  purveyors  so  the  house 
is  little  concerned  here. 

Fluid  Ounces — ^Weight  Ounces 

Like  the  "Pint's  a  pound"  fable  so  does  "all  ounces 
look  alike  to  me"  prevision  disaster!  The  liquid  ounce 
and  the  weight  ounce  are  not  the  same.  [In  Great 
Britian,  however,  the  fluid  ounce  of  water  does  weigh 
an  ounce  avoirdupois.] 

Dry  and  Liquid  Quarts  and  Pints 

Without  strict  ordinances  in  your  part  of  the  world 
pretty  confusion  exists  in  the  leveling  of  dry  and  liquid 
dissimilarities.  The  dry  quart  is  16%  larger  than  the 
liquid — so  you  see  the  loss  incurred  if  liquid  measure  is 
used  for  a  dry  purchase!  When  you  buy  a  quart 
at  the  hardware  store  for  home  use,  you  can  find  out 
whether  it  is  dry  or  liquid  by  filling  it  with  water.  The 
dry  quart  measure  should  weigh  2  pounds  6  %  ounces, 
the  liquid  quart  would  hold  but  2  pounds  m  ounces 
of  water. 

Uncertain  Quantities 

The  barrel  measure  is  somewhat  uncertain —  It  is 
test  to  find  out  your  state  regulations.  The  barrel 
differs  according  to  state  law  and  commodities  some- 
times. March  1915  a  law  was  passed  by  (National)  Con- 
gress. This  applies  to  all  dry  commodities  except  such 
as  have  been  sold  by  weight  or  numerical  count  (flour, 
sugar  and  cement).  The  standard  barrel  has  a  capac- 
ity of  105  dry  quarts.  The  liquid  barrel's  capacity  is 
generally  marked  on  its  side. 


MEASURE  FOR  MEASURE  363 


Sacks  and  Bags 

You  are  prone  to  "get  the  sack"  here  unless  you  are 
careful.  There  are  usually  94  pounds  of  cement  to  the 
sack  and  100  pounds  of  sugar.  In  the  case  of  flour  the 
weights  are  usually  in  multiples  of  a  barrel  y^,  V^,  %  etc. 
expressed  in  pounds,  but  the  custom  is  growing  to  drop 
the  1/^  pound,  ^4  pound,  and  %  pound,  from  the  weight 
of  %,  Ke*  and  %2  barrel  size  and  make  their  weights 
24,  12  and  6  pounds.  (Barrel  of  flour  has  196  pounds.) 
Potatoes  generally  weigh  2^4  bushels  to  the  sack — 
according  to  weight  per  bushel  in  your  own  State. 

Heaped  Bushel — Bulky  Vegetables,  Fruits  etc. 

In  different  states  the  heaped  measure  is  heaped 
differently,  in  some  the  measure  is  heapable  to  the  point 
where  the  commodity  falls  "down  and  out,"  in  others 
the  cone  above  the  measure  has  certain  lawful  dimen- 
sions—     So  find  out  before  you  are  fooled. 

In  buying  peas,  dried  beans  etc.  be  sure  they  are 
measuring  your  purchase  by  dry  not  by  liquid  meas- 
ures— or  you  will  lose  15%  of  your  purchase! 

Baskets 

Basket  sizes  are  just  about  standardized  to  2  quart, 
4  quart  and  12  quart  baskets. 

Boxes  for  Fruits 

A  national  law  says  that  the  standard  basket  or  boxes 
or  container  for  small  fruits,  berries  and  vegetables  shall 
be  of  the  following  capacities: —  Dry  half  pint,  dry 
pint,  dry  quart,  or  multiples  of  the  dry  quart. 


364  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 


Cords  of  Wood 

Practice  differs  here  in  large  measure —  Purchasers 
must  find  out  local  laws.  In  most  States  a  cord  of  wood 
is  128  cubic  feet — in  piles  3x8x4  foot  lengths.  The 
lengths,  however,  into  which  wood  is  cut  in  some  places  is 
3,  or  2,  or  1^  feet !  Measurements  are  sometimes  made 
before  and  sometimes  after  splitting.  The  basket  in 
some  states  measures  fractions  of  cords,  occasionally  it 
is  equal  to  a  heaped  bushel,  in  other  states  it  is  more 
specifically  designated.  Look  up  your  laws,  here  all 
your  safety  lies ! 

Containers 

Finally,  check  up  the  contents  of  your  containers  and 
notify  the  makers;  you  will  help  the  public  and  the 
manufacturer.  Statements  of  weight  are  in  avoirdupois 
terms.  Packages  of  2  pounds  or  less  are  exempt  from 
marking,  and  containers  below  1  fluid  ounce  come  under 
this  exemption.  Notify  the  maker  if  loss  exists;  it  is 
a  public  service. 

Losses  often  occur  from  evaporation,  leakage,  bad 
packing,  and  consequent  deterioration  before  opening. 
The  manufacturer  will  be  glad  to  get  a  notification  if  he 
is  of  integrity  so  that  he  can  take  steps  to  correct  his 
measure.  Here  is  real  need  for  a  good  scales  and  meas- 
uring cups. 

The  contents  of  a  cylindrical  can  or  paint  pail  can 
be  determined : 

Measure  circumference  with  a  tape. 
**         height  "       *'       " 

Diameter  of  can  equals  %2  of  circumference. 
Subtract   from   circumference   a  slight   amount  for 
thickness  of  can. 


MEASURE  FOR  MEASURE       365 

Multiply  the  result  by  itself  and  the  product  of  ^^4- 

This  result  should  be  multiplied  by  height  of  can  less 

proper  allowance  for  inset  and  thickness  of  ends. 

The  result  (if  you  have  used  inches)  will  be  the  cubic 

contents  (in  inches,)  it  can  be  reduced  to  gallons 

or  fraction  of  a  gallon  by  dividing  by  231. 

These  precautions  are  only  a  few  in  the  course  of  home 
buying.     But  we  hope  they  will  be  suggestive. 

Know  your  state  laws. 

No  home  should  be — no  matter  what  its  scale — without 
a  scale,  a  liquid,  as  well  as  a  dry  set  of  measure. 

It  is  wisest  to  buy  and  sell  by  weight  as  the  heaping 
systems  vary.  It  is  fairest  to  customer  and  more  com- 
fortable to  merchant.  If  you  and  every  one  insist  on 
this  fashion — it  will  prevail  in  the  future. 

Addition  and  Recapitulation 

Finally  we  have  added  to  our  familiar  weights,  meas- 
ures, thermometers  and  scales — the  hydrometer  for 
candy  making,  preserves  etc.,  the  water  meter  which  you 
don't  realize  is  working  away  in  your  home,  the  elec- 
tric meter  which  silently  subtracts  coin  from  your 
pocket  too,  the  gas  meter  which  is  just  as  financially 
obstreperous  and  if  you  are  inquisitive  meteorolog- 
ically you  may  too  have  a  barometer  to  tell  the  atmos- 
pheric pressure'  and  presage  the  weather  and  the 
hygroscope  or  psychrometer  which  will  measure  the 
humidity  in  the  air.  These  things  are  the  measures 
which  will  take  the  "uncertain"  out  of  your  domestic 
sailing  and  be  an  all  encompassing  compass  for  all  your 
goings,  comings,  and  weighs. 

But  above  all  don 't  forget  the  egg  timer — or  the  clock 
for  without  these  two  things  marriage  can  be  a  brittle 
thing  and  homekeeping  an  anarchy. 


CHAPTER  XLI 

TAKING  THE  KITCHEN  ALONG 

IT  is  no  longer  necessary  for  motorists  to  trust  to  luck 
and  the  roadhouse  restaurant  for  lunch.  They  can 
take  their  own  kitchen  along  and  loiter  down  the  high- 
ways and  bj^ways  and  eat  where  and  when  they  will. 
Manufacturers  who  have  studied  the  requirements  of 
motorists  provide  the  neatest  imaginable  bits  of  equip- 
ment for  use  on  the  road.  With  them  you  can  be  as 
comfortable  in  the  Gobi  Desert  as  at  home. 

The  best  known  of  these  pieces  is  what  is  called  the 
** Restaurant,"  a  ship-shaped  glazed  duck  or  sole  leather 
case  equipped  with  knives,  forks,  spoons,  cups,  saucers, 
butter  jars,  sandwich  boxes,  vacuum  bottles,  salt  and 
pepper  shakers  and  napkins,  for  from  two  to  eight 
persons.  They  can  be  strapped  on  the  running  board 
or  back  rack  of  the  car  or  slid  unobstructively  into  the 
tonneau.  They  are  shaped  usually  like  suit -cases,  al- 
though one  firm  makes  them  in  a  flat,  square  shape  of 
sole  leather,  black  grain  leather  or  glazed  duck  (patent 
leather). 

There  is  a  ease  of  this  kind  on  the  market  that  car- 
ries a  cooking  apparatus,  a  long  fork  and  a  folding 
gasoline  cook  stove  with  two  burners.  This  burns  ordi- 
nary gasoline,  which  the  motorist  always  has  with  him. 
There  are  no  loose  parts  to  assemble  or  become  lost. 
When  it  is  folded  all  parts  are  enclosed  easily  and  rap- 
idly and  the  case  fastens  securely  and  simply.  It  can  be 
bought  separately  or  in  combination  with  the  above  case. 

366 


TAKING  THE  KITCHEN  ALONG  367 

These  cases  are  built  on  a  basis  of  bass  or  some  other 
strong  wood  and  are  practically  unbreakable. 

If  you  prefer  a  wood  fire  to  the  gasoline  stove,  there 
are  small  grates  to  be  had  which  aid  greatly  in  the  build- 
ing of  it.  These  are  light  in  weight  and  can  be  carried 
easily. 

Long  ago  the  vacuum  bottle  solved  the  problem  of 
carrying  cold  and  hot  food.  It  is  made  in  many  shapes, 
styles  and  forms.  It  insures  comfort  for  the  long  or 
short  tour,  and  if  a  little  care  is  taken  in  the  handling 
there  is  no  danger  of  breakage. 

The  best  of  these  bottles  are  made  of  glass  well 
annealed,  insuring  elasticity.  The  outer  walls  are  gen- 
erally of  steel  and  relieve  the  jarring.  The  inner  wall 
is  also  of  steel,  and  between  these  walls  is  the  vacuum, 
impenetrative  to  heat  and  cold. 

These  jars  and  bottles  hold  from  one  pint  to  one 
gallon,  so  the  range  of  choice  is  vast  enough  for  utility. 
The  stoppers  are  so  made  and  fitted,  plus  their  caps,  to 
prevent  leakage  of  wind  or  advent  of  outside  air,  that  the 
temperature  probably  never  changes  more  than  a  few 
degrees  in  twenty-four  hours. 

Cases  for  these  bottles  in  various  sizes  are  made  of 
leather,  duck  and  wicker.  They  are  convenient  and 
absolutely  necessary  to  the  longevity  of  the  bottle  as  it  is 
so  adjusted  in  the  casing  that  it  rests  and  vibrates 
enough  to  ease  strain  which  might  overcome  the  elastic- 
ity of  the  glass  and  cause  breakage. 

The  bottles  themselves  are  finished  in  leather  over 
metal  or  in  metal  containers,  and  some  come  equipped 
with  handles  and   also  with   convenient   cups. 

Another  invaluable  aid  in  an  automobile  trip  is  the 
fireless  cooker,  which  makes  a  hot  meal  at  any  time 
a  reality.  Start  it  before  the  trip  begins  and  by  meal 
time   you'll   have   a   real   dinner,   not   a  pseudo-feast. 


368  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

These  fireless  cookers  can  be  had,  so  don't  forget  them  in 
planning  a  trans-desert  tour  amid  sands  and  dry  winds. 

Refrigerators 

There  are  on  the  market  admirable  ice-boxes  for  the 
motorist.  These  come  with  partitions  for  ice  and  par- 
titions for  food.  Some  have  racks  in  which  bottles  and 
other  things  are  held  firmly.  The  wicker  basket  lined 
with  metal  is  a  useful  one  and  has  a  convenient  carry- 
ing handle.  It  is  of  the  finest  workmanship  of  imported 
reed,  with  hardwood  bottom  covered  with  two  coats  of 
mineral  paint.  The  covers  are  of  three-ply  basswood 
finished  in  dark  forest  green.  There  are  straps  to  fasten 
the  cover,  and  the  hinges,  buckles  and  nickel-plated  fix- 
ings are  of  perfect  workmanship.  The  lining  is  nickel- 
plated  zinc  and  especially  insulated  against  aggressive, 
unwanted,   outside  air. 

The  ieeless  refrigerator  is  an  ice  saving  and  remark- 
able device  which  "works"  on  the  old  evaporation  cool- 
ing principle.  The  two  earthenware  crocks,  which 
fasten  together,  are  submerged  before  filling  in  clear 
water.  When  kept  in  a  draught  or  in  a  moving  vehicle 
or  in  a  window,  the  evaporation  process  cools  the  food 
within.  This  device  saves  ice,  the  cool  air  doing  the 
work. 

The  other  refrigerator  boxes  are  excellent,  too,  with 
their  fine  installations  and  vents  for  melted  ice.  These 
are  generally  leather  covered  and  zinc  lined. 

Cooking  Outfits 

Campers  use  cooking  outfits  that  motorists  do  well  to 
copy.  For  example,  the  cooking  outfits  made  of  hard 
seamless  aluminum,  for  from  two  to  six  persons,  include, 
in  the  smallest  set,  one  frying  pan,  two  cooking  pots, 


TAKING  THE  KITCHEN  ALONG  369 

one  coffee  pot,  two  plates,  two  cups,  two  soup  bowls, 
two  knives,  two  forks,  two  dessert  spoons  and  two  tea- 
spoons, all  nested  together  in  the  big  cooking  pot,  and 
weighing  six  pounds  six  ounces.  The  outfit  measures 
91/^"  X  8%",  all  wrapped  in  a  canvas  case. 

The  nest  for  eight  includes :  three  cooking  pots,  one  B 
cooking  pot,  one  large  coffee  pot,  two  frying  pans, 
eight  dessert  and  eight  teaspoons.  It  is  only  11''  x  12%" 
nested,  and  weighs  18%  pounds.  It  can  be  attached 
in  canvas  case  to  rear  or  side  of  running  board  racks, 
or  carried  in  the  car. 

If  aluminum  is  too  expensive,  there  is  always  the  very 
same  kit  in  steel,  heavier,  of  course,  but  just  as  compact 
in  size.    All  are  seamless  and  best  quality. 

There  are  also  pocket  kits  which  weigh  about  31  ounces 
and  measure  2"  x  3%"  x  8^2"  and  include  a  folding 
broiler,  racks  which  thrust  into  the  ground,  two  frying 
pans  with  detachable  handles  and  which  when  fitted  to- 
gether make  a  perfect  roaster.  All  fold  neatly  together 
and  there  is  room  for  knives,  forks,  etc. 

If  this  list  of  accessible  accessories  does  not  fire  your 
desire  to  take  to  the  open  road,  nothing  will. 


CHAPTER  XLII 
The  Fire  Hazard 

THE  chief  underlying  reasons  for  fires  in  civilized 
communities  are :  carelessness,  ignorance  and  panic. 

The  immediate  causes  are:  kitchen  stove  and  range 
maladjustments;  heating  stove  and  furnace  pipe  lapses; 
trouble  in  chimney  flues  and  pipings;  carelessness  with 
lamps,  gas,  oily  rags,  cleaning  fluids;  soot  deposits  of 
soft  coal;  spontaneous  combustion;  bad  insulation; 
no  insulation ;  cigarettes,  etc. ;  no  means  to  put  out 
a  fire  when  it  starts ;  and,  topping  it  all  hidden  electric 
diseases  cause  almost  more  fires  than  any  other  one  cause. 

In  rural  farm  communities  there  are  the  forest  and 
brush  fires,  which  we  need  consider  but  grudgingly  here, 
the  many  fires  which  catch  from  roof  to  roof,  and  the 
fires  from  the  chimney  which  start  one's  own  roof  afire. 
Then  there  are  lightning,  incendiary  fires  by  tramps, 
kerosene  oil  lanterns ;  creosote  from  the  smoke  and  soot 
in  wood-burning  communities  disintegrates  the  mortar 
in  the  masonry,  and  as  the  woodwork  comes  in  contact 
with  the  chimneys,  fires  are  the  result.  To  these  are 
added  the  other  hazards  common  to  all  modern  life  to- 
day. 

Farmers  or  those  living  out  of  the  range  of  the  fire 
department  should  be  more  especially  equipped  against 
fire  than  any  other  groups.  For  example,  a  ladder  is  a 
great  necessity,  and  yet  many  people  who  are  in  isolated 
places  never  spend  a  little  money  on  a  good  one  that 
might  save  the  roof  and  then  the  home,  to  say  nothing  of 

lives. 

370 


THE  FIRE  HAZARD  371 

Dirty  lamps  with  loose  connections  cause  many  a  fire 
and  should  be  thought  about  seriously.  Wet  days  on  the 
farm  are  great  fire  makers,  for  clothes  are  put  near  to 
the  fire,  and  whoop  la ! — a  very  warm  fire  ensues !  Can- 
dles, too,  are  handled  carelessly  and  should  be  treated 
as  inflammable  material  when  they  are  lit.  Most  ashes 
will  spontaneously  burn  if  set  away,  as  the  fine  bits  of 
coal  and  grease  adore  fire.  Lanterns  plus  hay  if  not 
carefully  used  are  another  cause  of  fire.  So  careless- 
ness really  is  the  root  of  99%  of  fires,  and  yet  we  in- 
dulge ourselves  in  this  ruthless  pleasure. 

Probably  the  kitchen  is  one  of  the  best  little  hatcheries 
in  the  home  for  fires.  Why  that  is,  is  easy  enough  to 
see.  The  chief  cause  here  is  negligence  and  its  first 
cousin,  ignorance. 

Fires  are  swift  followers  of  these  conventions: 

Ignition  o|f  wood  floors  under,  or  walls  back  of,  stoves ; 
drying  wood  in  ovens ;  kindling  left  over  night  too  near 
the  stove;  clothes  hung  on  backs  of  chairs  too  near  the 
stove  or  on  the  clothes  horse  too  near  to  the  stove, 
especially  if  they  have  been  cleaned  with  gasoline 
or  other  cleaning  fluids;  thin  clothes,  flimsy  sleeves 
catching  a  flame  make  delightfully  hot  and  dangerous 
fires. 

Fires  may  be  guarded  against  in  these  ways: 

1.  Metal  shields  projecting  at  least  6"  at  the  sides 
and  back  and  12''  in  front  of  ash  pans  should  be 
placed  under  all  kitchen  stoves  standing  on  wooden 
floors. 

2.  All  ranges  on  wood  or  combustible  floors  and 
beams  that  are  not  supported  on  legs,  and  have  ash 
pans  3"  or  more  above  their  base,  should  be  set  on 
brick  foundations. 

3.  Large  ranges,  if  under  combustible  ceilings, 
should  have  metal  hoods  above  with  a   ventilating 


372  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

pipe  passing  through  to  the  outer  air  through  a  sleeve 
or  asbestos  packing. 

4.  Wood  stud  partitions  back  of  ranges  standing 
VI"  or  less  away  should  be  shielded  with  metal  from 
the  floor  to  at  least  36^'  higher  than  the  ranges. 

5.  It  should  be  remembered  that  tin,  zinc  or  sheet-iron 
used  to  protect  woodwork  from  the  heat  should  be  so 
placed  that  there  will  be  an  air  space  between  it  and 
the  wall. 

6.  If  a  metal  is  against  the  wood,  it  only  serves  to 
conceal  charring  without  preventing  it.  Bear  in 
mind  that  bright  tin  reflects  more  heat  than  sheet 
iron. 

7.  Watch  stovepipes  for  parted  joints  and  rust  holes; 
clean  soot  from  chimneys  and  stovepipes  at  stated  in- 
tervals ;  do  not  allow  plaster  back  of  stoves  to  remain 
broken. 

8.  There  is  now  a  fine  asbestos  product  made  which  is 
a  mixture  of  cement  and  w^ood  and  asbestos  which  if 
placed  under  the  stove  or  even  back  of  it  will  prevent 
fire.  This  material  is  not  cold  to  the  foot,  can  be 
highly  polished  and  is  most  delightful  in  a  well 
groomed  kitchen.  This  too  can  be  used  for  table  tops 
and  is  polished  by  a  mixture  made  for  its  express  de- 
mands. 

This  asbestos  wood  is  invaluable  for  partitions,  obviat- 
ing very  thick  and  expensive  walls ;  and  due  to  its  light- 
ness it  can  be  used  for  light  frame  houses  and  insure  fire 
protection.  It  is  used  for  switch-board  and  other  insula- 
tions by  electricians,  etc.  It  takes  various  stains  and 
finishes  in  imitation  of  wood  or  marble,  is  rigid,  light 
and  fireproof. 

It  is  the  same  physically  as  wood  except  that  it  is 
fireprof,  takes  a  higher  polish  and  is  harder.  It  can  be 
used  not  only  for  making  walls,  floors  and  ceilings  fire- 


THE  FIRE  HAZARD  373 

proof,  but  window  casing,  partitions,  base-boards, 
cabinets,  and  all  trim.  It  is  moisture-resisting  and  im- 
pervious to  weather  conditions. 

The  people  that  are  the  most  careful  of  the  pocketbook 
seem  to  forget  the  ordinary  fire  peril  and  don't  seem 
to  realize  the  necessity  for  concentration  on  the  cures, 
probably  because  they  are  optimists  and  do  not  think  of 
any  trouble — yet  why  pay  so  dearly  for  optimisml? 

For  example,  most  stoves  should  be  at  least  24''  to  30" 
from  these  things  that  combine  so  affectionately  with 
them  and  should  be  at  least  6"  off  the  floor  if  not  stand- 
ing on  metal  or  asbestos  wood.  If  lath  and  plaster  are 
protected  by  a  metal  shield,  then  the  stoves  can  be  within 
18"  with  safety.  A  fire  proof  material  should  be  at 
least  36"  square  on  the  floor  to  catch  flying  embers  from 
stove  or  fire. 

The  fire  clay  linings  in  the  stove  should  be  watched 
and  seen  to  be  sound,  and  the  fire  in  any  stove  should 
never  be  made  above  the  fire  clay  linings.  Possibly 
you  have  not  heard  of  these  things  before  and  they 
sound  like  the  cry  of  the  alarmist.  Never  fear.  It 
is  better  to  cry  before  you're  hurt,  sometimes,  than 
afterwards ! 

Never  put  kindling  wood  in  the  oven. 

Deposit  all  ashes  in  metal  receptacles  or  upon  non- 
combustible  floors,  removing  same  from  building  at 
least  once  a  week.  Barrels  or  boxes  should  not  be  used 
for  storing  or  carrying  ashes  unless  they  are  constructed 
entirely  of  metal. 

Before  starting  fires  in  the  autumn,  thoroughly  clean 
out  the  furnace  and  flues  thereto,  also  the  fireplaces. 

Carefully  examine  them  and  immediately  repair  or 
replace  any  defective  part.  Don't  burn  out  chimneys 
and  flues  by  making  an  especially  hot  fire  with  paper, 
etc.    Main  chimneys  should  be  cleaned  from  roof  to 


374  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

cellar.  All  stovepipes  where  entering  chimneys  should 
be  provided  with  metal  collars  and  rigidly  fixed  in 
place.  Replace  any  tile,  crock  or  flimsy  flues  and 
chimneys  with  substantial  brick  chimneys. 

Gas  stoves  or  other  heaters  should  have  a  ventilating 
flue  to  carry  off  the  burned  gas  fumes,  which  are 
poisonous.  Do  not  use  portable  rubber  or  similar 
tubing,  but  connect  all  gas  stoves  rigidly  and  securely 
with  gas  pipe.  Examine  valves  and  see  that  they  are 
tight  and  do  not  leak. 

Never  permit  a  stove  of  any  kind  to  be  set  up  without 
stone,  brick,  concrete  or  metal  protection  underneath, 
or  near  a  partition  without  a  metal  shield  and  air 
space.  Never  run  stovepipes  through  partitions,  or 
paste  paper  over  flue  holes. 

All  types  of  open  fireplaces  or  stoves,  especially 
where  there  are  children,  should  be  provided  with 
substantial  spark  screens. 

Don't  throw  waste  paper  on  an  open  fire  unless  you 
watch  it  more  than  carefully. 

Every  period  of  extreme  cold  results  in  numerous 
fires  due  to  forcing  the  heating  apparatus.  Keep  this 
in  mind  next  winter.      Watch  your  heater. 

Keep  hoods  and  pipes  of  kitchen  range  free  from 
grease  and  lint  by  cleaning  with  hot  water  and  lye. 

Do  not  hang  clothes  or  bags  near  stoves,  or  on  stove- 
pipes or  steam  pipes  or  on  electric  bulbs.  In  the  case 
of  the  recondite  furnace  whose  being  we  take  for  granted, 
the  same  principles  apply  as  to  the  stove.  For  safety, 
asbestos  about  the  wood  and  adjacent  places  makes 
safety  sure,  and  if  safety  first  doesn't  apply  here  where 
does  it?  It  will  at  least  keep  the  secretive  fire  below 
stairs  from  breaking  bounds. 

Where  pipes,  flues,  etc.,  pass  through  woodwork  there 
should  be  asbestos  or  metal  protection  to  the  wood  or 


THE  FIRE  HAZARD  375 

else  here  again  we  will  be  victims  of  a  lapse  of  pre- 
caution. 

Sometimes  fires  have  occurred  by  the  closing  of  all 
registers  in  a  house  heated  by  hot  air  and  the  unnatural 
heat  left  in  the  furnace  overheats  pipes,  etc.,  to  a  dan- 
gerous degree.  In  some  homes  so  heated  there  are  two 
registers  which  cannot  possibly  be  closed,  and  obviates 
overheating. 

Inspection  of  flues  to  see  that  deteriorated  mortar 
will  not  permit  the  exit  of  fire  to  surrounding  woodwork 
will  prevent  many  a  fire.  Very  often  where  joists 
and  beams  rest  on  chimneys  and  are  not  sufficiently 
insulated  against  the  ravages  of  faulty  construction 
or  wear,  they  will  catch  fire  slowly  but  surely. 

Faulty  joints  in  pipes  are  many  times  the  cause  of 
fire  w^hen  the  rest  of  the  home  is  perfectly  guaranteed 
against  it.  For  example,  when  a  stovepipe  is  fitted 
into  another  there  should  be  at  least  a  3"  lap  to  make 
a  safe  joint.  Imperfect  junctures  of  pipe  and  flue, 
pipe  and  pipe,  make  for  the  escape  of  sparks  and  con- 
sequent fire.  Stovepipes  should  not  pass  through  a 
floor  or  plaster  partition  or  any  concealed  place,  lest  a 
parted  joint  or  rust  holes  may  cause  mischief. 

Nor  should  any  pipe  that  is  likely  to  be  heated  pass 
through  an  attic  where  flutf  is  bound  to  accumulate,  un- 
less this  pipe  be  insulated  with  asbestos  to  prevent 
ignition.  Neither  should  a  stovepipe  pass  through 
a  roof,  window  or  siding  even  of  a  summer  kitchen ; 
and  the  running  of  a  very  long  stovepipe  perpendicularly 
into  a  chimney  is  also  hazardous. 

A  stovepipe  or  a  chimney,  no  matter  how  well  isolated 
by  zinc  or  what  not,  can  set  the  ordinary  shingled 
roof  on  fire  by  the  escape  of  fiercely  burning  bits  of 
soot  and  cinder.  Many  a  roof  has  been  burned  this 
way,  to  say  nothing  of  the  whole  house. 


376  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

There  is  to-day,  besides  the  heavy  tile,  metal  and  com- 
position roof,  an  asbestos  roofing  in  the  shape  of 
shingles  of  any  color  and  shape  that  will  wear  indefi- 
nitely, and  is  absolutely  fireproof,  moisture-proof  and 
light  enough  to  be  put  on  any  house.  Furthermore  if 
you  don't  want  to  remove  the  old  wooden  roof,  this 
shingle  can  be  put  over  it  and  make  a  better  roof  than 
without  the  old  one,  as  the  insulation  value  of  the  wood 
will  keep  the  attic  warm  in  winter  and  cool  in  summer. 
There  are  many  asbestos  roofings,  the  best  of  which  are 
made  of  asbestos  fiber,  cement;  these  are  made  in  all 
colors,  sizes  and  shapes  and  can  be  put  on  by  any 
roofer.  There  is  never  any  reason  to  repaint  or  repair 
them,  and  if  they  are  a  bit  higher  at  first  in  price  than 
the  ordinary  shingle,  you  save  in  the  lack  of  upkeep 
and  the  fact  that  no  sparking  can  go  on  between  your 
neighbor's  roof  and  your  own  or  between  your  chimney 
and  your  own  roof.  Copper  roofs  now  are  within  the 
scope  of  more  purses  than  heretofore. 

You  have  to  rem.ove  stains  from  your  garments,  and 
fjor  this  may  incur  death  and  destruction  by  fire 
quite  readily.  But  death  is  not  necessary  if  a  few 
precautions  be  taken.  Keep  the  gasoline  or  whatever 
you  may  have  in  a  can  that  can  be  bought  for  the  pur- 
pose. Then  don't  deposit  it  in  the  stove  or  near  it, 
but  away  from  it  where  there  is  no  chance  of  any  fire 
coming  in  contact  with  it.  Don't  clean  your  clothes 
with  these  fluids  in  the  smoking  room  or  the  kitchen.  If 
possible  clean  them  outdoors. 

Fuels 

Wood  as  a  fuel  is  dangerous  because  it  burns  rapidly, 
makes  a  lot  of  ashes  and  has  to  be  replenished  so  often. 
Kerosene  makes  a  lot  of  trouble  because  there  is  such 
crass  ignorance  in  its  use.     Some  people  seem  to  love 


THE  FIRE  HAZARD  377 

to  fill  a  lamp  when  it  is  burning.  Of  course  this  is  the 
worst  thing  that  one  could  do.  And  others  dote  on 
pouring  kerosene  on  an  open  fire.  Gasoline  is  explosive 
and  as  a  fuel  for  the  home  not  at  all  warranted. 
Water  won't  be  a  very  good  extinguisher  in  these  cases, 
but  we  will  talk  about  extinguishers  a  little  later  on. 

When  you  realize  that  six  percent  of  all  fires  are  caused 
by  lamps  it  will  do  no  one  harm  to  learn  the  following 
rules  by  heart  and  by  brain : 

Kerosene  should  always  be  handled  by  daylight  and 
away  from  all  flames  and  fires.  Under  no  circumstances 
whatever  should  a  lamp  be  filled  while  its  wick  is 
lighted.  After  filling  a  lamp  both  the  burner  and  the 
reservoir  should  always  be  carefully  wiped  free  from 
oil  films. 

When  a  lamp  is  not  burning  it  is  well  to  keep  the  wick 
a  little  below  the  top  of  the  tube.  This  helps  to  prevent 
oil  from  working  over  the  burner  and  reservoir. 

Lamps  should  be  filled  as  often  as  they  are  used. 
Especially  do  not  light  a  lamp  when  the  oil  is  low  in  the 
reservoir.  Never  use  a  burner  which  fits  loosely  upon 
the  rest  of  the  lamp.  Never  use  a  lamp  wick  which  does 
not  fit  the  tube  provided  for  it.  Never  blow  out  a 
kerosene  flame  downward.  Turn  down  the  wick  a  little 
and  let  the  flame  go  out  of  itself. 

If  you  must  blow  it  out  blow  upward  through  the 
burner  or  across  the  top  of  the  chimney.  Both  of  these 
methods  produce  an  upward  draught. 

Do  not  try  to  carry  a  blazing  lamp  to  a  place  of 
safety.  The  least  agitation  may  cause  an  explosion. 
When  the  lamp  is  well  filled  there  is  small  chance  of 
gas  forming  in  it;  but  as  the  oil  is  consumed  explosive 
gases  form. 

A  burner  that  is  kept  clean  and  bright  radiates  heat, 
while  a  dirty  one  donducts  heat  to  a  lamp. 


378  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Glass  lamps  are  especially  dangerous.  The  dropping 
or  breaking  of  lighted  lamps  and  the  spreading  of  burn- 
ing oil  annually  bring  havoc  to  many  hundreds  of 
homes. 

Medicaments 

As  well  as  cleaning  fluids  the  presence  of  medicine 
and  liniments  made  of  ether  and  chloroform  and  alcohol 
are  always  causes  of  fire  when  not  properly  housed  in 
the  right  kind  of  metal  medicine  chest  and  not  directly 
over  or  near  a  gas  jet  or  oil  lamp.  So  remember  to  use 
carefully  anything  with  these  chemicals  or  camphor, 
varnishes,  turpentine,  benzine  or  gasoline.  Keep  tliem 
in  tin  cans,  which  are  to  be  had  for  them.  Use  them  in 
da.ylight. 

Never  leave  rags  around  saturated  with  oils,  medicines 
or  greases,  because  spontaneous  combustion  will  take 
place. 

According  to  the  National  Fire  Protection  Associa- 
tion, the  attic,  cellar  and  all  closets  and  outbuildings 
should  be  cleaned  at  least  once  every  year,  and  all  use- 
less material  and  rubbish  removed  therefrom  and 
burned.  These  unnecessary  accumulations  are  danger- 
ous, and  are  the  causes  of  many  fires.  Store  all  remain- 
ing material  neatly  so  that  a  clear  passage  may  be  had 
between  or  around  boxes,  cases,  barrels,  etc. 

Metal  waste  baskets,  only,  should  be  used. 

In  storing  clothing,  first  remove  all  matches  or  other 
material  from  the  pockets  and  then  carefully  fold  and 
neatly  place  away.  Do  not  hang  clothes  where  they  will 
be  near  hot  chimneys.  Do  not  go  into  closets  with 
lighted  matches  or  candles. 

Care  should  be  exercised  in  burning  leaves,  dead  grass 
or  rubbish.  Keep  these  fires  a  safe  distance  from  build- 
ings, and  never  light  them  on  windy  days. 


THE  FIRE  HAZARD  379 

Do  not  bank  houses  in  winter  with  straw,  excelsior  or 
other  readily  inflammable  material;  a  chimney  spark 
or  carelessl}'^  thrown  match  may  ignite  it. 

Use  safety  matches,  and  make  it  impossible  for 
children  to  get  them.  Always  place  burned  matches  in 
metal  receptacles;  never  throw  them  on  the  floor  or 
into  waste  baskets. 

To  smoke  in  garages,  in  beds,  or  around  stables  con- 
taining hay  is  deliberately  to  invite  disaster. 

Swinging  gas  brackets  are  dangerous,  and  never 
should  be  allowed  near  curtains  or  dressers.  Fix  them 
rigidly  so  as  to  avoid  contact  with  combustible  material. 
If  open  gas  flames  are  within  two  feet  of  ceiling,  see 
that  ceiling  is  protected  with  sheet  metal  or  asbestos 
board.  Tips  for  gas  lights  are  inexpensive,  while  a  light 
used  with  a  broken  tip  or  without  a  tip  often  causes 
fire.  Don't  use  gas  pendant  mantles  unless  protected 
underneath  with  wire  gauze.  Hot  carbon  deposits 
form  and  drop  from  mantles  of  gas  arc  lamps.  A  globe 
closed  at  the  bottom  is  safer. 

Examine  the  gas  meter,  see  that  it  is  securely  set  and 
well  connected,  and  is  not  located  near  open  lights  or 
furnaces.  An  outside  gas  shut-off  valve  to  service-con- 
nection is  desirable.  Never  look  for  gas  leaks  with  a 
match,  candle  or  lamps. 

Where  a  dwelling  is  lighted  by  a  gasoline  vapor  or 
acetylene  gas  system  the  rules  governing  the  safe  use  of 
these  illuminants  should  be  carefully  studied  and  rigidly 
observed. 

Illuminating  oils  should  be  kept  in  closed  metal  cans 
in  a  safe  place,  and  lamps  should  never  be  filled  except 
by  daylight.  Kerosene  lamps  should  be  kept  clean  and 
properly  trimmed.  If  allowed  to  burn  all  night,  se- 
lect one  that  contains  much  more  than  enough  oil.  A 
dirty  lamp  containing  only  a  little  oil  is  unsafe. 


380  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Do  not  use  paper  or  decorative  shades  of  inflam- 
mable material  on  lamps  or  electric  light  bulbs. 

Electricity  can  be  a  real  hidden  peril  and  extends 
throughout  the  wire  system  in  a  building.  Be  sure  it 
is  safely  installed,  and  have  the  system  carefully  in- 
spected and  approved  by  a  recognized  electric  inspector. 
Many  fires  are  due  to  defective  electric  wiring.  Do  not 
destroy  insulation  on  electric  light,  fan  or  heater 
wires  by  hanging  them  on  hooks  or  nails.  Imme- 
diately repair  or  replace  any  defective  switches,  fuses, 
sockets,  etc.  A  fuse  is  the  ''safety  valve"  of  an  electric 
system,  and  should  never  be  replaced  by  one  of  larger 
size  or  any  other  material. 

Before  attaching  electric  irons,  vacuum  cleaners,  cook- 
ing utensils  or  any  other  electrical  device  to  your  light- 
ing circuits  or  sockets,  consult  an  electrician  as  to  the 
ability  of  your  wiring  to  withstand  this  additional  load. 
Electric  wiring  systems  are  designed  to  carry  only  a 
certain  current,  and  if  overloaded  may  cause  fires. 
Numerous  fires  have  been  caused  by  leaving  electric 
irons  with  the  current  on.  Disconnect  them  imme- 
diately when  through  using.  Electricity  is  safe  iut 
carelessness  is  unsafe. 

Heating  and  Garage  Hazards 

Coal  and  kindling  should  preferably  be  kept  within 
a  brick  or  stone  enclosure  and  not  stored  against  frame 
partitions  nor  directly  against  walls  of  boiler  or  furnace. 
It  is  well  to  see  that  the  garden  hose  may  be  attached 
to  the  kitchen  faucet. 

Never  allow  open  flame  lights  in  a  garage.  When 
filling  the  tank,  run  the  auto  outside,  so  that  gasoline 
vapors  will  dissipate. 

Do  not  keep  quantities  of  gasoline  or  calcium  carbide 
inside   of   garage   or   dwelling.     An   approved   under- 


DETACH   PLUG  FROM   IRON   AS  WELL  AS  FROM   SOCKET  IF  VOU 
WANT  VOUR  HOME  INTACT 


Courtesy   of  N.   Y.  Edison  Co. 

don't  pull  the   CORD  A   MILE   ABOVE  THE  IRON  TO   DETACH, 

BUT    TAKE    IT    DOWN    CLOSE    TO    THE    IRON.       THIS   SAVES    THE 

WIRES    AND    FIRES 


THE  FIRE  HAZARD  385 

ground  storage  tank  is  the  safest  method  for  keeping 
gasoline. 

A  metal  waste  can  should  be  located  at  a  convenient 
place  outside  the  garage  for  all  waste  and  greasy  rags. 
Burn  these  every  week.  Never  use  sawdust  or  shavings 
to  absorb  grease  and  oil.  Scrub  floor  (if  wooden) 
occasionally  with  hot  water  and  lye. 

The  use  of  gasoline  for  cleaning  parts  of  the  auto- 
mobile in  the  garage  is  a  dangerous  thing. 

The  garage  should  not  be  heated  by  means  of  stove 
or  open  fire  of  any  kind,  unless  same  is  isolated  in 
another  room  so  that  the  gasoline  vapors  of  garage  can- 
not possibly  get  to  it.  Gasoline  vapor  travels.  Being 
heavier  than  air,  it  seeks  low  levels.  Ventilation  should 
be  arranged  to  take  care  of  vapors  collecting  near  the 
floor. 

Keep  an  approved  fire  extinguisher  and  a  pail  of 
sand  in  the  garage.  Water  thrown  on  burning  gaso- 
line merely  serves  to  spread  it. 

In  many  cases  water  will  quench  fire.  But  in  the  case 
of  oils,  alcohol  and  other  volatile  liquids  and  grease 
fires  water  simply  spreads  the  fire  and  you  are  in  more 
trouble  than  you  were  at  first. 

The  Big  Eight 

The  eight  firemakers  in  the  order  of  their  devastat- 
ing power  are  as  follows:  Electrical,  due  to  careless- 
ness and  lack  of  proper  inspection ;  matches  and  smok- 
ing; defective  chimneys  and  flues;  stoves,  furnaces, 
pipings  and  boilers;  spontaneous  combustion;  sparks 
on  roofs,  and  petroleum  and  its  products.  From  1915 
to  1919  the  value  of  fires  from  these  causes  aggregated 
$1,416,375,845.  Is  it  any  wonder  that  there  is  now 
agitation  all  over  the  United  States  to  have  at  least 
thirty  minutes  given  each  week  to  the  study  of  fire  pre- 


386  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

vention  ?    Saving  the  home  is  better  even  than  building 
more  homes. 

Extinguishers 

Every  home,  of  course,  should  be  equipped  vsdth  the 
best  possible  extinguisher.  There  are  any  number  of 
them  on  the  market.  Do  you  know  of  many  motorists 
who  refuse  the  call  of  the  extinguisher  ?  There  are  not 
many  who  have  not  one  in  their  car,  yet  there 
are  few  homes  with  them.  Large  homes  should  have  one 
on  every  floor.  Small  homes,  even  if  they  have  not 
enough  footage  to  lower  their  insurance  rates,  should 
have  them  to  reduce  the  fire  hazard. 

What  kind  should  the  householder  buy?  The  chief 
thing  here  is  to  buy  one  that  has  no  fancy  method  of 
operation,  that  simply  by  inverting  the  container 
turns  on  a  forceful  stream;  light  as  possible  in  weight, 
not  over  25  pounds  and  preferably  about  12,  so  that  a 
woman  can  use  it.  Right  there  it  is  interesting  to  note 
that  The  Fireman's  Herald  reports  that  women  daily 
put  out  more  fires  and  obviate  conflagrations  than  men ; 
that  were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  women  put  out  so  many, 
the  fire  peril  would  have  been  far  greater. 

Other  things  that  you  must  demand  in  the  extin- 
guisher are  that  it  must  have  at  least  a  stream  of  20' 
long;  that  there  must  be  no  suffocating  fumes  from  the 
chemical's  contact  with  the  fire;  that  the  chemical 
must  be  as  nearly  stainproof  as  possible  so  that  in  a 
small  fire  the  room  is  not  unnecessarily  disfigured. 
The  chemical  must  not  freeze  readily  at  least  not  above 
27  or  28  degrees  Fahrenheit. 

There  is  one  extinguisher  on  the  market  to-day  that 
is  gaining  mightily  in  favor,  because  it  spreads  a  foam 
over  the  fire  and  cuts  off  the  oxygen,  and  the  laying  of 
the  foam  prevents  a  flash-back  when  the  fire  is  nearly 


THE  FIRE  HAZARD  387 

out.  At  first  this  was  used  in  the  extinguishing  of  oil 
fires,  the  heaviest  and  most  difficult  of  all  fires  to  put  out. 
For  example,  where  a  chemical  engine  took  an  hour  to 
do  the  trick  this  foam  type  took  a  few  minutes. 

This  has  the  added  power  of  expanding  over  eight 
times  its  bulk  in  the  container  when  released,  so  that 
if  the  house  type  is  used  the  container  need  not  be 
over  %  gallon  and  you  really  have  about  six  gallons  of 
material  for  the  fire.  This  does  no  more  damage  to 
draperies  than  would  water.  It  does  not  injure  cottons 
or  wools  and  does  not  penetrate  fabrics  as  many  other 
chemicals  do.  If  it  gets  on  one's  clothes  it  is  easily 
brushed  off  after  it  dries.  On  polished  and  varnished 
furniture  it  has  no  effect  and  is  easily  washed  off. 

Service 

Reliable  firms  will  always  tell  you  correctly  what 
kind  of  an  extinguisher  to  buy  for  your  particular  pur- 
pose. They  will,  too,  in  compliance  with  the  Board  of 
Underwriters'  rulings,  watch  the  apparatus  once  a  year 
and  recharge  if  necessary.  Actually  they  don't  always 
need  it,  but  it  is  a  wise  ruling  of  the  Board. 

There  are  some  extinguishers  excellent  for  outdoors, 
motor  boating,  etc.,  but  which  indoors  are  apt  to  give 
off  suffocating  fumes. 

There  are  extinguishers  of  large  capacity  on  wheels 
for  large  homes  and  large  estates.  These  are  a  great 
insurance  against  fire.  They  are  built  on  narrow  gage 
wheels  for  rolling  on  floors  in  the  house  and  heavier 
construction  for  outdoor  use.  Many  big  estates  use 
these  little  two  wheelers,  as  they  are  fire  departments 
in  themselves. 

A  good  quality  fire  hose  is  a  mighty  good  assistance 
in  a  large  home,  too,  and  is  becoming  very  widely 
used.      Of  course,  there  are  many  fires  that  water  not 


388  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

only  will  not  quench,  but  will  spread;  on  the  other 
hand,  there  are  many  little  conflagrations  that  water 
immediately  will  kill. 

Another  good  method,  but  not  as  efficient,  for  use 
in  all  conditions  is  the  telescopic  fire  bucket  set.  Six 
pails  are  set  in  a  container  in  the  liquid  and  all  one 
has  to  do  in  ease  of  fire  is  to  open  the  lid  and  each 
pail  comes  out  filled.  If  the  fire  is  not  great  and  has 
just  started  and  is  within  a  few  feet  of  you,  this  is 
all  well  and  good,  but  one  can  hardly  throw  water  from 
a  pail  as  far  as  ten  feet  above  your  head,  while  with 
the  extinguisher  the  stream  is  from  twenty  to  forty  feet 
in  length.  This  pail  system  would  not  reach  a  roof, 
you  see,  which  the  extinguisher  might. 

An  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  wizardly  asbestos 
will  do  a  lot  in  the  home  to  keep  the  hearth  fires 
burning  in  their  right  places.  The  asbestos  ironing 
pad  on  the  ironing  board  is  a  good  resilient  thing.  Al- 
though not  in  this  case  primarily  meant  as  a  fire  pre- 
ventive, it  will  stop  the  iron  from  causing  a  big  fire, 
even  if  it  should  burn  off  the  top  sheeting,  for  when  it 
reaches  the  asbestos  the  fire  will  go  out. 

There  are  now  some  very  convenient  collapsible 
ladder  escapes  which  are  stored  in  a  small  box  near  the 
window,  which  makes  the  escape  from  a  fire  not  depen- 
dent on  ancestors  who  were  tight-rope  walkers. 

There  are  regular  fireproof  builders  who  do  naught 
else  but  fireproof  work,  but  in  this  article  we  are  only 
concerned  in  the  home  after  it  is  built.  Yet  we  cannot 
refrain  from  saying  that  the  right  architect  and  the 
right  builder  at  first  will  reduce  your  fire  hazard;  they 
will  adhere  not  only  to  the  Underwriters'  rulings  but 
they  will  build  a  house  so  that  its  insulation  (electric), 
air  insulation  and  circulation  and  partitions  will  be  done 
according  to  safe  and  wise  arrangement. 


THE  FIRE  HAZARD  389 

Don't  do  foolhardy  things  and  think  you  can  get 
away  with  them. 

Have  the  telephone  number  of  the  nearest  fire  station 
on  a  special  card  at  your  telephone,  or  have  fire  depart- 
ments in  your  own  home — extinguishers. 

Familiarize  the  family  with  the  operation  of  the 
nearest  fire  alarm  box.  After  operating  a  fire  alarm, 
stay  near  it  to  direct  the  fireman  to  the  fire.  Every 
minute  is  significant. 

Don 't  fail  to  notify  the  chief  of  the  fire  department  of 
anything  you  may  see  that  is  dangerous  or  liable  to  cause 
fire. 

We  could  say  to-day  that  in  the  home  millions  are 
spent  for  fires,  but  hardly  one  cent  for  prevention  of 
them.  Should  we  not  as  enlightened  human  beings  take 
thought  and  save  the  world  some  of  its  useless  expendi- 
ture of  life,  limb  and  extravagance? 

There  is  now  on  the  market  a  new  little  extinguisher 
weighing  about  two  pounds. 


CHAPTER  XLIII 

TAKING    CARE    OF    THE   HOUSEHOLD    EQUIPMENT 

AS  we  have  intimated  before  in  these  articles,  the 
best  of  everything  may  be  yours,  yet  if  you  care 
for  them  in  slovenly,  careless  or  uninformed  ways  it 
will  be  as  if  you  had  nothing  whatever  of  any  value. 
The  persistent  ignorance  of  the  seemingly  most  en- 
lightened and  experienced  housekeepers  as  to  the  use 
and  care  of  the  refrigerator  is  appalling.  It  is  pos- 
itively amazing  to  see  the  breakage  of  sane  rules  of  pro- 
cedure in  favor  of  what  seems  to  them  proper.  For 
example,  the  best  of  housewives  will  insist  on  filling  the 
ice  chamber  of  the  refrigerator  with  but  a  suspicion  of 
ice  and  a  riot  of  food,  whereas  the  ice  chamber  is  meant 
for  ice,  and  ice  to  the  limit  of  its  capacity,  not  once  a 
week  but  every  and  all  day.  Unless  this  is  done  the  air 
currents  over  which  the  manufacturer  has  slaved  to  make 
possible  will  not  occur,  and  the  best  refrigerator  becomes 
a  useless  thing.  You  might  just  as  well  get  a  packing 
case  and  stuff  it  full  of  ice  and  food.  The  ice  chest  must 
be  full  in  order  to  cool  the  air  and  start  the  heavier 
(cool)  air  falling  through  the  chest,  which  as  it  descends 
gets  warmer,  rises,  passes  over  the  ice,  cools  again  and 
drops — and  so  on  in  endless  circulation.  It  is  these 
currents  which  keep  the  refrigerator  cold ;  it  is  not  the 
ice  cake  itself.  In  a  little  ice  box,  yes,  the  food  has  to 
be  put  into  the  ice  chamber  as  there  is  no  other,  but  here 
you  are  not  depending  on  the  melting  of  the  ice  starting 
air  currents  to  descend  and  to  rise.  The  problem  is 
quite  a  different  one. 

290 


CARE  OF  THE  HOUSEHOLD  EQUIPMENT     391 

We  think  probably  the  difficulty  with  the  owners  of 
refrigerators  is  that  they  have  the  ice  box  in  mind  and 
it  is  an  inherited  notion  that  the  food  must  be  in  close 
proximity  to  the  ice.  This  paragraph  may  seem  a 
digression,  but  it  is  purposely  put  in  to  emphasize  the 
fact  that  the  ice  box  and  the  ice  refrigerator  are  two 
very  distinct  and  different  things.  Therefore,  be  it 
remembered  that  in  the  refrigerator  you  must  not  waste 
the  ice  by  cuddling  warm  provisions  next  it,  because 
your  ice  is  like  a  battery.  It,  too,  makes  currents — 
not  electric,  but  air  currents. 

Now  then,  when  we  have  the  ice-making  currents, 
what  happens  to  the  air  of  varying  degrees  of  tem- 
perature? The  coldest  air  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  re- 
frigerator (of  course  we  are  always  thinking  of  the  best 
refrigerators)  because  cold  air  is  heavier  than  warm  air 
and  the  warm  air  rises.  Therefore,  if  you  have  odorous 
things  do  not  put  them  in  the  ice  chamber  because  the 
air  starting  down  will  carry  odors  along.  Put  the 
odorous  things  and  the  things  that  should  be  kept  coldest 
on  the  lower  shelves. 

In  some  chests  the  currents  of  air  are  so  good  that 
onions  and  butter  never  exchange  compliments — a 
highly  snobbish  society  where  there  is  little  amalga- 
mation. 

One  buyer  of  an  expensive  refrigerator  said  that  his 
refrigerator  was  a  great  disappointment  because  the  ice 
chamber  leaked.  Now  this  was  a  strange  thing,  for 
these  ice  chambers  are  made  of  the  best  workmanship 
known  to  refrigeratordom.  Everything  was  ques- 
tioned: Did  you  keep  your  ice  chamber  full?  The 
reply :  Yes.  Did  you  keep  things  other  than  ice  in  the 
ice  chamber?  The  orthodox  answer  came:  No.  Do 
you  close  the  door  of  the  ice  chest  completely?  An- 
swer :    Yes. 


392  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

So  the  repair  man  went  to  the  house  to  give  the 
erring  chest  a  stethoscoping  and  found  that  the  floor 
of  the  ice  chest's  compartment  was  a  little  uneven  and 
the  water  was  forced  from  the  melting  ice  into  foreign 
channels  and  escaped  through  the  front  of  the  ice 
box,  dropping  in  streaking  lines  on  the  front  fagade. 
This  is  but  a  minor  point,  yet  the  refrigerator  or  the 
stove  or  the  vacuum  cleaner  or  the  anything  is  often 
blamed  for  misplacements,  lack  of  care  and  ignorance 
on  the  part  of  the  operator,  and  this  article  is  meant 
to  forestall  a  very  few  of  them. 

Here,  then,  are  some  things  to  watch  out  for: 

1.  Keep  the  doors  of  the  refrigerator  closed  al- 
ways. If  they  don't  close  easily,  see  to  it  that  some- 
thing is  done  to  make  them  close. 
2.  If  you  have  a  refrigerator  with  a  lot  of  mov- 
able parts  it  is  well  to  remove  them  and  immerse  in 
hot  water  occasionally.  But  don't  buy  one  that  has 
many  outgoing  parts;  it's  unnecessary  and  a  constant 
bother  to  adjust. 

3.  Once  a  week  wash  out  the  whole  chest  with  warm 
water  and  soda ;  never  use  strong  smelling  soaps.  Am- 
monia can  be  used  but  it  is  probably  best  to  use 
soda.  Hot  water  cleans  better,  of  course,  but  it  will 
give  the  ice  more  cooling  to  do  and  if  the  box  is 
cleaned  regularly  cool  water  ought  to  do  the  trick 
well  enough.  However,  every  so  often  the  hot  bath 
is  a  good  thing. 

4.  Every  day  wash  off  the  ice  that  newly  enters 
the  ice  chamber. 

5.  Never  wrap  the  ice  in  paper  thinking  to  save 
ice,  because  ice  only  makes  cold  air  by  melting.  Here 
is  a  place  where  the  good  and  saving  housekeeper 
saves  ice  to  the  destruction  of  her  food  stuffs,  yet  this 
is  the  hardest  bit  of  politics  to  propagate. 


CARE  OF  THE  HOUSEHOLD  EQUIPMENT    393 

6.  If  the  lining  gets  discolored  use  some  harmless 
preparation  to  remove  the  stains. 

7.  It  is  sometimes  a  good  idea  to  put  a  piece  of 
waxed  paper  around  highly  odorous  foods. 

8.  Wash  everything  in  the  way  of  utensils  that  are 
put  in  the  box.  Have  a  regular  refrigerator  set  of 
dishes. 

9.  Wash  vegetables  before  entering,  for  if  there  is 
anything  introduced  in  the  way  of  foreign  matter,  the 
enemy  alien  may  make  for  odorous  trouble. 

10.  Cover  any  receptive  foods;  it's  wisest  even 
with  the  most  perfectly  ventilated  refrigerators. 
Liquids  will  dry  up  a  bit  with  a  dry  air  circulation 
and  egg  yolks  kept  in  water  will  keep  better  if  the 
water  is  changed  daily.  If  dampness  collects  in  your 
refrigerator  something  is  wrong. 

11.  Wash  off  the  outside  of  refrigerator  with  damp 
cloth  every  week. 

12.  Remove  ice  rack  and  scrub  well  in  water  and 
soda  weekly. 

13.  Boil  parts  (removable)  twice  a  month  or  use 
very  hot  water. 

14.  Dry  case  thoroughly  after  every  douching. 

15.  If  the  refrigerator  is  well  connected  to  drain, 
a  little  hose  to  flush  the  interior  will  be  simple  and 
easy. 

16.  The  drain  pipe  must  be  carefully  flushed,  as 
here  the  invading  army  of  typhoid,  etc.,  loves  to  en- 
camp and  make  inroads.  See  to  it  that  the  drain 
pipe  is  easily  removed  and  cleaned  and  that  the  drain 
pan  (should  the  drain  pipe  have  no  outlet  into  the 
plumbing  system)  be  easily  removed  at  least  once  a 
week  to  be  cleaned  out. 

With   these  few  words  we  will  leave  probably  the 
most  familiar  bit  of  household  mismanagement  to  a 


394  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

reforming  public,  and  pass  on  to  some  floor  coverings. 

In  the  case  of  linoleum  and  similar  floorings  we 
will  take  for  granted  that  they  are  perfectly  laid  down 
and  that  all  that  there  is  for  us  to  think  about  is  the 
nursing  of  them.  Even  the  cheaper  (printed  and  not 
inlay)  of  these  floorings  will  last  years  if  the  following 
suggestions  are  absorbed  and  put  into  regular  practice : 

Sweep  linoleums  daily.     This  is  easy. 

Use  an  oil  mop  daily. 

Never  use  anything  but  a  mild  soap  and  tepid  water 
for  cleaning. 

Then  rinse  with  clear  water  and  dry  thoroughly.  It 
should  be  done  a  square  yard  at  a  time,  each  yard  care- 
fully dried  before  going  to  the  neighboring  yard.  Do 
not  flood  when  a  mop  is  used. 

Elbow  grease,  mild  soap  and  warm  water  are  all  that 
is  necessary. 

Avoid  as  the  plague:  Ij'e,  soda,  potash  and  all  clean- 
ing inventions  which  may  harbor  lyes! 

Polishing  makes  the  flooring  last  longer,  of  course. 
Colors  will  be  reborn  each  time  and  the  floor  withstand 
wear  better.  Use  a  good  floor  wax.  A  home-made 
kind,  if  you  can't  buy  any  of  the  finest  kinds  on  the 
market,  can  be  made  of  beeswax  and  turpentine  in 
equal  parts.  Use  all  the  polishes  sparingly  and  not 
more  than  once  a  month.  Rub  in  well,  however,  when 
you  are  doing  it. 

It  is  well  to  have  glass  or  metal  caps  on  heavy  furni- 
ture as  narrow  castors  are  prone  to  furrow. 

For  cork  floors: 

Sweep  daily. 

They  must  be  washed  with  tepid  water  and  weak  soap. 

Polishing  is  unnecessary. 

Floors  of  tiles,  etc,  should  be  swept  daily.  Flush 
with  warm  water.    Scrub  once  a  week,  strong  soap  and 


CARE  OF  THE  HOUSEHOLD  EQUIPMENT     395 

elbow  grease.  Soda  and  water  will  remove  stains.  If 
not,  use  a  weak  hydrochloric  acid  or  oxalic  acid  and 
wash  off  immediately  with  water  and  soap  which  will 
stop  the  further  action  of  the  acid  on  the  tile.  (One 
part  of  acid  to  two  parts  of  water.) 

Wooden  floors  also  should  be  swept  daily.  Swab 
(don't  scrub  a  varnished  or  painted  floor)  with  warm 
water  and  weak  soap.  Keep  hardwood  floors  free  from 
grit,  which  bites  and  grays.  Use  a  soft  dry  mop  of  felt 
or  the  brushes  the  reliable  manufacturers  make  for  the 
hardwood  floors.  Occasionally  wipe  off  with  some  well 
known  and  tested  floor  finish. 

To-day  with  rustless  and  ordinary  steel  the  problem 
of  cutlery  is  simpler  and  yet  more  diversified.  In  the 
case  of  cleaning  and  scouring  ordinary  steel  you  can  use 
almost  any  good  scouring  powder,  but  not  in  the  case 
of  the  stainless  rustless  variety,  as  it  reduces  the  polish, 
the  very  thing  that  maintains  imperviousness  to  rust 
and  stain.  Cutlery  should  be  cleaned  immediately 
after  using. 

Sharpening  knives  is  best  done  by  an  expert.  Yet 
there  are  good  rotary  sharpeners  and  stones  and  steels 
for  home  usefulness  or  knife  destruction  depending 
upon  how  they  are  used.  Remember  when  you  use  a 
stone  not  to  feel  that  you  must  cut  through  the  stone 
itself  and  that  what  you  are  trying  to  do  is  to  flatten 
the  edge  of  the  knife  and  wear  off  the  offending  blunt- 
nesses.  The  ideal  thing  is  once  or  twice  a  year  to  send 
the  knives  to  a  grinder  and  then  occasionally  at  home 
run  the  knife  blade  flatly  over  a  carborundum  ston^  to 
get  a  smoother  edge. 

The  stainless  steel  cutlery  has  a  special  kind  of  sharp- 
ening stone  at  present  on  the  market  and  it  is  well  to 
use  this. 

Good  knives  need  no  further  edging  when  new. 


396  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

But  though  you  may  have  the  best  steel  and  the  best 
sharpening,  if  you  house  your  knives  badly  you  will 
have  lost  all  the  good  from  these  things  that  there  is.  It 
is  not  good  for  knives  to  be  huddled  together.  They 
get  as  cutting  as  humans  would  in  the  same  position. 
If  they  live  in  a  small  place  together  without  their  own 
places  they,  as  people,  wear  on  each  other.  They  knick 
each  other's  blades  and  spoil  each  other's  usefulness. 
Knives  should  be  hung  or  laid  in  grooves.  A  box  is  now 
made  for  the  proper  housing  of  them.  You  can,  too, 
hang  each  knife  on  a  spring  which  you  can  get  at  a 
hardware  shop.  If  you  reserve  a  tenement  house  law 
for  the  knives  of  your  household  you  will  have  real 
health  and  help  from  them. 

The  same  story  holds  for  forks.  It  would  be  a  good 
thing  to  have  a  verhoten  sign  in  your  kitchen,  reading: 
*'It  is  forbidden  to  open  cans,  uncork  bottles,  unlock 
oven  doors,  pry  open  ice  chests,  take  a  nail  out  of  a  box 
with  the  forks  in  this  kitchen." 

In  the  case  of  wooden  handles,  do  not  let  them  remain 
soaking  in  hot  water  for  ages.  Wash  and  clean  them 
at  once. 

Floor  Coverings 

Floor  coverings  such  as  mattings  and  carpets  are  to- 
day best  taken  care  of  by  the  vacuum  cleaner.  Hot 
water  cloths  with  a  suspicion  of  ammonia  laid  on  top  of 
matting  are  supposed  to  be  a  good  thing  for  its  longevity 
after  it  is  vacuumed. 

Carpets  are  now  coming  back  into  being  after  years 
of  retrogressive  hate.  Now  on  account  of  the  vacuum 
cleaner  they  can  be  used  in  all  their  warmth  and  beauty 
and  kept  sanitary  for  ordinary  uses  by  the  vacuum 
cleaner.     Talking  of  this: 

The  only  thing  that  this  instrument  of  redemption 


CARE  OF  THE  HOUSEHOLD  EQUIPMENT     397 

needs  is  oiling,  but  not  too  often;  an  occasional  dust- 
ing off;  and  the  emptying  of  the  dust  over  something 
that  doesn't  give  it  back. 

Stoves  of  themselves  don't  get  very  dirty.  It  is  the 
foods  that  are  the  transgressors.  It  is  wisest  to  clean 
all  stoves  when  cold.  Use  kerosene  or  stove  black. 
In  the  case  of  the  gas  stove,  when  the  gas  vents  become 
clogged  by  drippings  of  food  it  is  well  at  least  once  a 
week  to  take  them  out  and  emerse  in  soda  and  water. 
Wipe  off  grease  and  grit  before  cleaning  surface  of  stove 
and  always  remove  dirt  at  once.  If  grease  is  removed 
after  every  using  of  the  stove,  it  will  be  very  easily 
maintained  in  cleanliness  and  it  will  never  run  away 
with  you. 

The  trays  under  the  burners  in  gas  stoves  should  be 
cleaned  often  and  well.  Burners  of  oil  stoves,  too,  can 
be  immersed  in  soda  and  water.  About  one  quart  of 
water  and  one-quarter  pound  of  soda  make  a  good 
cleaning  solution. 

Some  MiscF.TiTiA.NiEs 

Don't  let  any  solid  foods  get  into  the  sink.  Always 
have  a  good  sink  strainer.  Soda  and  water  is  a  good 
cleaner.  Flush  sink  with  hot  water  and  clean  it  at  least 
three  times  a  day.  Grease  is  a  forbidden  quantity  in  a 
sink  and  should  any  get  in,  the  hot  water  flushing  will 
disintegrate  it.  "Warm  water  and  soap,  fine  powders 
such  as  whiting,  etc.,  will  keep  porcelain  sinks  in  good 
order. 

Nickel  can  be  cleaned  with  soap  and  water  and  pol- 
ished with  ungritty,  well  devised  polishes.  Never  use 
anything  that  will  scratch  it. 

Boil  iron  in  soda  and  water,  rub  with  some  good 
powder  with  a  bit  of  scratch  in  it.  Use  hot  soap  suds. 
Dry  while  it  is  hot. 


398  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

Do  not  use  soap  on  aluminum;  there  are  regular 
aluminum  cleaners  on  the  market.  Occasionally  only 
use  a  little  acid,  such  as  lemon  or  tomato  diluted. 
Never  use  soda. 

Boil  agate  in  soda  water.  Wash  in  hot  soap  suds  and 
dry. 

Use  dilute  oxalic  acid  for  cleaning  brass,  fine  powder, 
plenty  of  water.  Polish  with  metal  polish  which 
abounds  on  the  present  market. 

Tin  can  be  cleaned  with  soda  and  water,  but  do  not 
leave  it  in  this  solution  long,  as  the  alkali  will  eat  the 
tin.  Wash  and  dry  at  once  or  you  will  have  rust  on 
your  tin  ware. 

The  silver  story  is  long  but  well  known.  The  only 
thing  not  to  do  is  to  use  gritty  powders  that  will  scratch. 
Wash  your  silver  after  cleaning,  as  the  cleaning  mix- 
tures do  not  make  good  appetizers. 

In  caring  for  electric  ironers  and  washing  machines, 
first  of  all  read  the  directions  that  come  with  them.  Oil 
as  they  tell  you  or  don't  oil;  too  much  oil  is  bad  and 
too  little  is  bad.  Do  not  overload  (with  clothes)  your 
cylinder  or  your  drum;  some  motors  rebel  and  there  is 
trouble.  When  buying  your  washer  be  sure  to  tell  the 
electrician  what  kind  of  electricity  you  consume,  whether 
it  is  A  C  or  D  C ;  also  the  voltage  of  your  circuit.  This 
applies  to  all  electric  machinery. 

Don't  leave  your  electricity  on  when  you  are  not 
using  a  device.  If  you  do  in  the  case  of  the  iron,  you 
will  have  fires  and  all  kinds  of  trouble.  Don't  blame 
the  machine  for  faults  of  your  own.  Remember  in  the 
case  of  the  electrical  ironer  that  heat  is  hot  and  that  if 
you  leave  a  piece  of  goods  on  the  roll  and  the  motor 
going  you  will  burn  your  article. 

These  things  are  cleaned  with  warm  water  and  pol- 
ished and  dusted  in  accordance  with  the  ordinary  metal 


CARE  OF  THE  HOUSEHOLD  EQUIPMENT     399 

needs.  There  is  little  to  say  about  their  upkeep  except 
what  has  been  said  about  other  devices.  Follow  the 
directions  of  the  makers;  they  know  the  exigencies  of 
their  offspring-. 

Soft  cloths  and  warm  water  are  best  for  cleaning 
white  wood  enamel.  Soaps  yellow  the  enamel,  so  a  few 
drops  of  ammonia  added  to  a  pail  of  water  will  help 
banish  grease. 

Warm  water  and  soap  or  soda  and  warm  water  will 
clean  off  marble  tops. 

In  the  long  life-assurance  of  metals  generally,  it  must 
be  born  in  mind  that  in  order  to  keep  them  clean  and 
bright  things  must  be  used  that  will  not  scratch,  corrode 
or  roughen. — or  at  least  do  as  little  of  these  things  as 
possible.  In  the  case  of  silver  cleaning  the  aluminum 
pan  method  is  best  because  there  is  less  corrosion  and 
less  roughening. 

Rubbing  with  soft  chamois  and  cloths  after  cleaning 
will  give  the  metal  the  polish  it  often  needs.  Buffing 
and  the  use  of  pumice  powders  and  pastes  help  along  the 
better  finishes.  But  these  things  all  must  be  done  in 
moderation  to  preserve  the  life  of  these  metals.  The 
more  precious  gold  or  silver  must  be  treated  of  course 
with  great  care.  Chemicals  are  dangerous  and  the  best 
acids  are  lemon  and  those  things  which  cannot  poison. 
Many  combinations  are  poisonous  and  must  be  used  with 
discretion  and  the  articler  well  washed  before  using. 

Were  the  space  alloted  for  this  story  greater  we  could 
take  up  many  more  things,  but  space  being  the  rarest  of 
commodities  we  shall  have  to  end  with  one  last  admoni- 
tion: 

When  your  devices  do  not  work,  as  guaranteed, 
first  look  to  yourself  or  assistant  and  see  what  is  wrong. 
Then  if  you  find  you  can  absolve  yourself  from  the 
great  transgression — carelessness  or  ignorance — it  will 
be  time  enough  to  attack  the  dealer  and  get  redress. 


CHAPTER  XLIV 

A   FEW   SUGGESTIVE   BOOKS 

The  following  list  is  to  give  the  reader  a  handle  to 
the  siabjects  lightly  touched  in  this  volume. 

The  Home.    Charlotte  Perkins  Oilman,  C.  P.  Gilman. 

Housewifery.    I.  R,.   Balderston,  Lippineott. 

The  Business  of  the  Household.  C.  W.  Taber,  Lippin- 
eott. 

The  Principles  and  Practice  of  Plumbing.  C.  C.  Cos- 
grove,  Standard  Plumbing  Manufacturing  Co.,  Pitts- 
burg. 

Sanitation  Practically  Applied.  H.  G.  Wood,  John 
Wylie  &  Sons. 

Kitchen  Fire  and  How  to  Run  It.  S.  S.  Wright,  S.S. 
Wright. 

Formulas  for  Soaps  and  Cleaning  Compounds.  Auto- 
matic Electric  Washer  Co.,  Newton,  Iowa. 

Electric  Cooking,  Heating  and  Cleaning.  Out  of  print 
but  in  Libraries,  Maud  Lancaster,  D.  Van  Nostrand 
Co. 

Harpers'  Every  Day  Electricity.  Don  Cameron  Shafer, 
Harper. 

Home  Canning.  Creswell  and  Powell,  U.  S.  Farmers' 
Bulletin  853  (Bureau  of  Agriculture). 

Fuels  for  the  Household.  Marion  White,  Whitcomb  and 
Barrows. 

400 


A  FEW  SUGGESTIVE  BOOKS  401 

Successful  Drying  Community  Plant.  U.  S.  Dep't. 
Agriculture  Farmers'  Bulletin  916. 

Materials  for  the  Household,  Circular  70,  U.  S.  Dep't 
Bureau  of  Standards. 

Safety  for  the  Household.  Circular  75,  U.  S.  Dep't 
Bureau  of  Standards. 

The  New  Housekeeping.  Christine  Fredericks,  Double- 
day  Page. 

Laundering  at  Home.  Six  Bulletins,  Stains,  Supplies, 
Cottons,  Linens,  Washing  Machines  and  Ironing 
Equipment.  Am.  Washing  Machine  Mfg.  Assc, 
Chicago. 

Little  Houses.    Flagg. 

House  and  Garden  Homes.    Conde  Nast  Co. 

Successful  Homes  and  How  to  Build  Them.  Francis 
White,  Macmillan 

Hand  Book  of  Cleaning.  Sarah  McLeod,  Harper 
Brothers. 

Home  and  Community  Hygeine.  Jean  Broadhurst,  J. 
B.  Lippincott 

Preserving,  Dehydration,   etc.     Government   Bulletins. 

Modern  PlumUng.  Starbuck,  M.  P.  &  F.  Pub.  Co. 
200  5th  Ave. 

Home  Laundering.  L.  Ray  Balderston,  L.  R.  Bald- 
erston. 

Domestic  Engineering.  Plumbing,  Heating  Weekly  Dec. 
13-20—19. 

Good  Housekeeping  Institute  Engineering.  Good  House- 
keeping. 

Vacuum  Cleaning  Systems.  M.  S.  Cooly,  Heating  and 
Ventilation  Magazine. 

Chemistry.     Herman  Vulte. 

Chemistry  and  Physics.  May  B.  Arsdale,  Dr.  Wood- 
hull. 

Bureau  of  Building  Bulletin  1922,  N.  Y.  C.  Munici- 


402  CHEATING  THE  JUNK-PILE 

pal  Building  U.  S.  Government  Bulletins  on  all  home 

problems,  see  the  list  of  the  U.  S.  bulletins  on  all  home 

processes. 

Building,   Plumbing,   Fire,    etc.    Bulletin   Bureau   of 

Board  of  Standards  and  Appeals,  City  of  N.  Y.,  Dec, 

23,  1919. 
Bulletin  Bureau  of  Board  of  Standards  and  Appeals 

City  of  N.  r.    Building,  Plumbing,  Fire  etc.,  Dec.  23, 

1919. 
More  Leisure  Hours.    Louise  Read — Society  for  EleC' 

trie  Development  Pamphlet,  522  Fifth  Ave. 
TJ.   S.    Government   Pamphlets.    Bureau    of   Printing 

Washington  D.  C.  (Sup.  of  Documents). 
Electrical  Record.     (Magazine)  McGraw  Hill  Co.  Inc. 
Electrical  Merchandising.     (Magazine)     Gage  Pub.  Co., 

Inc. 
Laundry  Pamphlets.    Wallace  B.  Harts. 


